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Everything posted by b3freak

  1. The OEM speaker enclosures go *inside* the door, not mount on top of the weather seal. The part where you see the bar code "security seal" mounts behind the outer door shell. (notice with the OEM green line is coming out) You'll need to carefully cut the opening and noodle the enclosure into the door hole. The door should have the proper door fasteners to secure the enclosure to the door. Good luck!
  2. Personally, if the body shop damaged it, I would insist they replace it. It's there fault. That being said, you'll have to remove the door panel to replace the upper window weather seal. Check out this video...
  3. I have no dog in this fight. I'm not going to risk my $20K+ motor on a roller or ball bearing design, IMHO. Everything I've read over the years shows risks from radial load on roller bearings which potentially could lead to failure, but I guess the cylindrical roller bearing is their "solution"? Problems associated with ball bearings is why we're in the this mess in the first place. I believe the IMS solution by LN with it's oil fed plain bearing design is the best technology out there. Why do you think the Mezger engines are so valuable to racing?... one of the reasons is because of it's durability on the track. Those Mezger engines use a plain bearing design on their shafts.
  4. I bought mine three years ago and Autel has since discontinued it. But it's the MD702. I paid a couple hundred for it which I thought was a good deal. Their pro systems exceed $1000. Just make sure you buy one that will read all of the modules on your Porsche 996. https://www.auteltech.com/autelcms/Discontinued Products/365.jhtml
  5. I agree 100%, go with the ONLY US patented IMS bearing that will last longer than the life of most of the components on the M96 engine - The IMS Solution!
  6. I have an Autel Scanner that will read all the modules on my Porsche 996. Works great with my Volvos too. Without a doubt it has paid for itself. I was having the same frustrating double horn honk too. Replaced a faulty microswitch on the front lid (i.e. frunk) and it fixed the problem. The scanner will help point you to the source of the problem if you can't find the culprit by using common sense observation.
  7. So basically what you're saying is that you noticed the problem, had a mechanic examine more closely and determined that the intermix was because of a cracked head? Now, you've decided to sell it instead of head repair? Have you cleaned the coolant system of the damaging oil/coolant intermix?
  8. How long has the car been sitting with intermix? Have tried to drive it in this condition?
  9. Just adding to what Loren said... The engine number M96/03AT665 68531 translates to... M96/03 = 3.6L motor AT = denotes factory replacement engine 6 = 6 Cylinders 6 = Natural Aspirating Motor 5 = date of manufacture = 2005 68531 = actual serial number
  10. (see attached picture) I had the same problem and it was the microswitch that was broken. The trigger is made of plastic and over time it will break. This may be more reason not to slam a Porsche hood. hahaha Anyway, on the switch on the right you can see the plastic part that is broken. With the main piece broken, the circuit was complete; therefore, the light stayed on. Of course, the one of the left is the replacement and when the hood is closed, the plastic trigger rotates clockwise thereby not allowing the electrical signal to ground out. Regarding the frunk light, I unplug mine because of the pains associated with the 996 and dead batteries. It's a tiny little worthless light. Personally, I carry a very powerful LED flashlight, but that's just me. Too many of my forum friends have been locked out of their cars because of a dead battery and the culprits are usually something like a frunk or rear deck lid light. IMHO.
  11. Instead of removing the side panel and door sill trim, I'd recommend routing the camera lines under the center console and through the rear carpet. Much easier. I've done both.
  12. Then I would follow Loren's instructions from the shop manual to more closely identify the culprit.
  13. Question for clarity... You said "car has not been overheating", but is the car overheating now when you're getting the warning light? What is the temp reading on the gauge when the light is blinking?
  14. Have you removed the bumper and cleaned the front radiators in the last year or two? Also, you should check your water pump. If it hasn't been changed in the last 20K miles, I would plan to replace it. There's a slight chance the impellers have broken off and blocking some of the coolant passages. Let's hope not.
  15. Wow! Who said these cars wouldn't last long!? ha! 147,000 miles? I love it!
  16. I upgraded my CDR-23 on my last Carrera to an aftermarket double din system. Wasn't the easiest job since I was dealing with a proprietary "MOST" based system with six channels. You'll need to be prepared to purchase a suitable wire harness and frunk amp in addition to the double din head unit. Also, you'll need a mounting kit. Here's the most popular... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Metra-99-9605B-Single-Double-DIN-Dash-Kit-For-Porsche-911-996-1999-2005-Boxs/192480514891?hash=item2cd0bb934b%3Ag%3AmLEAAOSw3dtappky&_sacat=0&_nkw=Porsche+996+metra+double+din&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313
  17. Does the PSE on your car work in spite of the absence of the switch? Basically, you're just wanting to add the switch since the '02 car didn't come with the switch like the '03 cars, correct?
  18. Nice 996TT! Daily Driver? You must have to get to work quick! hahaha ?
  19. I just looked at the installation section in the manual for the Pioneer and see no special connection for the brake sensor. I would recommend resetting the unit by pulling the fuse(s) for the head unit and amp. If you have the hifi system from factory that could mean 3 fuses. I could be mistaken, but I believe the Pioneer unit uses GPS data to recognize if the vehicle is in motion or parked. After resetting the fuses. Follow this procedure. See att. pic.
  20. The cdr-23 is digital MOST on fiber optics. There is no stereo analog “aux” input like the cdr-220. Becker autosound will custom install a mono analog adapter which uses the cell phone input. But again it’s just mono. More than likely that what the 3:5 mini phone connector is for that’s shown in the picture.
  21. Ouch, you say the seat motor is dead? You've checked for blown fuses and seat connections, right? Fuse E3 There is a TSB on the 2001 996TT. (see att pic) Also, you may try gently tapping the seat's sliding bracket with a small hammer. Sometime there's resistance enough to jam the motor. If that's not the fix, you can try using the vertical motor to get the seat high enough to work to remove and replace the motor. Won't be easy. Good luck
  22. Wow... didn't realize your car had this type of history, but glad you got some benefit off the accident. Oh, I was way off on the paint job... $15,000??? Eeekk... that's almost the total value of the car. You must really love this car! Regardless, beautiful job. ?
  23. Nice job! Curious... based on your title (i.e. 2002 C2), you've taken a 2000 Mk1 Carrera and converted it to a GT3 Mk2 aero kit, correct? What kind of cost for the Aero bits and full paint? Looks like a top-notch job given the fact that they removed the doors, all weather seals, hood, and bumpers. I'm guessing here... you have more than $15,000 for the a paint job and aero kit? It's looks really good... Only thing I'd add is the mk2 GT3 18" wheels to match. Those older 17" turbo twist don't do the car with it's new look any justice, IMHO.
  24. Do you have a spare keyfob or is the malfunctioning key the only set you have for your 996? Your answer to that question will determine the next step.
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