B3-CPO

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On 2/10/2020 at 10:25 AM, obin robinson said:

Not yet. I've been busy with other projects. How tough was it to replace the tensioner? Where did you get the parts from.

To clarify, I meant the seat belt receptacle. It's pretty much plug and play. Remove the negative terminal on the battery. Remove the seat in question. Unbolt and unplug the old seat belt receptacle. Install new part and plug it up. Reinstall the seat and connect battery. Reset the airbag code with a scanner. Start the car to test.

I know this sounds a little rudimentary , but have you tried replacing the battery? Also, you might need to reflow the connections on the key fob's circuit board. If that doesn't work, then you should be prepared to replace it. I wouldn't advice owning these cars with just one working key fob. Could get expensive if you lose you one and only key fob when the car is armed. You end up having to replace the immobilizer on top of new keys.

16 hours ago, BrianL996 said:

The issue from what I have learned by calling K&N is that they did not make an intake for a 1999 996!

No idea why but they did not.

As I said the car runs fine and sounds real nice with the fister exhaust.

I was hoping to find a guru who knew a way to make it work but if I cannot I will just remove it and as suggested put the original intake back and find one that will work with my car.

 

Brian, do us the courtesy by installing the original airbox and see if the blinking fuel light goes away. That would help a lot of people that are considering a cold air intake.

1 hour ago, BrianL996 said:

They never made one for this year. I purchased and installed it. Works fine and makes a nice sound. BUT my low fuel light now flashes.

I could use some help with this one.

I'd reinstall the stock airbox to rule out the possible low fuel blinking light anomaly. 

On 8/31/2019 at 11:18 PM, hi8ha said:

Hi, has anybody purchased/used the FOB repair kit offered on eBay  for a one button FOB 996 1999?

Unless you know how to clean and repair electronics, I'd recommend just going back to the dealership for new key fob programming. Lots of people have opened up their keyfobs and tried to clean and repair the board/contacts only to get frustrated when they've spend time and money and end up with negative results. Most of the ones that end up pleased are the people that realized that these are 20 year old keyfobs and they wear out; therefore, it's time to visit the dealership and have new keys made. That's my advice. 

May be time for a new light switch. I was getting some weird light gremlins and just swapped it out. Fixed.

On 8/22/2019 at 5:42 PM, obin robinson said:

I pulled the seat belt out several times and let it reel back in. It rolls back up correctly. The code keeps popping up. Can I just take that trim off and check the wiring? I don't want to set the airbag off.

OP, have you tried replacing the tensioner? I had this exact problem. Tried everything. Bit the bullet and replaced the seat belt tensioner. Problem solved. 

These are low current switches last time I looked at the schematic. I wouldn't sweat trying to perfectly match the gauge of the wire. Pay more attention at making the right connections and it's always a good idea to solder and shield (i.e. heat shrink tubing) at each break in the line. The next owner would appreciate that!

On 8/15/2019 at 6:18 PM, rramos439 said:

 If the car is not licked it will drain the. Attery. I had that same problem

 

I have yet to lick my car and the battery is just fine. 😂

On 8/3/2019 at 3:46 AM, pdwhyte75 said:

One question,

Will this work with the foldaway cup holders, as I have these and i hear I may need a different kit?

As far as I know, the Metra kits have not caused an unwanted barrier for the Porsche slide out cup holder.

Cheers!

13 hours ago, pdwhyte75 said:

 

Hi folks, I have the double din unit with the sat nav CD player underneath, planningnon swapping this out for an android unit or pioneer, I want to keep the speakers as they are.

 

Are all these sat nav becker systems fibre optic? Any suggestions on what adaptor kit to go for please?

 

Cheers paul.

Paul,

The 2002 model did not have fiber optic (MOST) connectivity. Your PCM1 is analog ... which, by the way is a good thing when upgrading the head unit. Metra offers some of the best, most affordable aftermarket stereo mounting kits for double DIN applications...

99-9605B ISO & Double Din Radio Install Dash Kit for 99-05 911, Car Stereo Mount

WWW.EBAY.COM

---

STACKED ISO DIN: "COMPATIBLE " WHEN INSTALLING (2) STACKED ISO-DIN RADIOS TOGETHER. For 1999-2005 Porsche 911 (996). Double Din Radio Provision. Includes Parts for Installation of a Double Din Radio or a ISO-Din Radio.

Use the factory cell phone spare plug located behind the center console (CD compartment). The plug offers switched and unstitched 12V.

Brown = Ground 

Red / Green = Switched 12 volts 

Green / Black = Unswitched 12 volts 

Yellow / Black = Telephone Mute

12 hours ago, Andy Ericksen said:

I bought the cheapest Porsche 996 on Craigslist (as a non-runner) and I think the IMS bearing has failed.  The car is a 2002 911 Carrera Coupe.  It has 101k miles on the odometer.  

I pulled the filter, opened it up and found ferromagnetic flakes (see pics).  There are also ferromagnetic flakes in the filter housing and in the oil that I drained out of the filter housing.

How likely is it that I can save this engine?  Am I better off buying a used engine?  If the engine can be saved I'd like to rebuild it myself.

Yes, this engine can be "saved" and rebuilt better than what the factory offered. But it all boils down to what YOU want to spend to make it right. Basically, you must learn the three Rs of Porsche M96 ownership as it applies to your current situation:

1.) Rebuild it 

2.) Replace it 

3.) Resell it

On 6/30/2019 at 5:03 PM, Eștii said:

Im still trying to figure mine out. All the info about these 996 radio installs is so vague. What I need to figure out is the red connector, CAI shows the red connector mating to the OEM yellow with 2 yellow wires, 1 black, and 1 brown. But my yellow connector only has 1 red/black wire in it, so im not sure what to connect to the red harness.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Man, 

Work from the CDR-220 wiring diagram. (see attached). I used this same adapter. The red harness is to connect C1,C2, and C3 from the OEM CDR-220 connections to the aftermarket radio. This will provide you with RCA preamp and amp on/out connections to the aftermarket headunit.  The back harness from CAI is for sockets A and B.

Good luck!

18 hours ago, Eștii said:

Yes its that cdr 220 with the amp in the front. I would like to leave the amp, sub and speakers the same and change only the radio if possible. The radio I will install is a pioneer 80prs


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Ok, not a problem.The Metra kit you attached looks correct. I have basically the same thing in my 996. But remember, the Porsche (Nokia or HAES) amp in the frunk is a 6 channel amplifier. The CDR-220 provided the amp with 4 preamp signals that are distributed across all 6 speakers in your car. As you can see on the wire harness on the left, you'll need to connect the 4 stereo RCA preamp connection to the Pioneer. The blue cable is for the amp switched 12V signal to tell the amp to turn on and off. Normally, you connect that to an aftermarket radio's antenna output.  The Pioneer 80PRS does provide these necessary RCA outputs and so you're good there. Good choice. 

Are you changing out the head unit and the amp? What system do you currently have in your car? CDR-220? Nokia/HAES amp in the frunk?

2002 Coupe... 50K miles. I drive it every weekend! 

On 5/9/2019 at 9:54 PM, Colin Chin-A-Loy said:

Last month I flew to California and drove back my new to me 996 c4 cab cross country back to Delaware. Flew out with a standard tool kit. Sockets, open end wrenches, torx set, screwdrivers etc. 

bought antifreeze and a jug of oil. 

 

Had slight antifreeze leak that went away when the engine was warm and just leaked overnight. ( main line into slip fit mount) 

car ran flawlessly, up to 147 at times. Mostly maintained a steady 90. 

Fun ride with my son. 

Good luck 

Keep a close eye on the Expansion Tank. I well known part to fail and leak. Not easy to install, but Jake Raby posted a video showing the process on his Rennvision Channel.

If you've reached the threshold adjustment on the Litronics adjustments, then you may need to manually adjust the tray the light sits on. There are four point adjustments. 

Hey Guys,

There's been a lot of talk about bore scoring these days and how to possibly identify it before it's too late. One way is by doing an UOA at each oil change. Jake Raby and Lake Speed, Jr. are conducting an online class next month.

This looks like a great opportunity to learn more about how an UOA can help mitigate the collateral damage associated with metal contaminated oil.

Check it out...

http://www.theknowledgegruppe.com/in...lake-speed-jr/
 

It could be vent valve unit. There was a guy on the forum recently that couldn't get any gas to pump into the car because the pump kept tripping off. He replaced the entire vent valve unit and problem solved. My car doesn't like one station and so when I pump there I have to use the lowest flow rate. No problem for me. I have the same problem with my Tahoe. 

2nd opinions are worth their weight in gold with it comes to these cars. This shop is probably wanting to cover their butts and so they've over estimated on labor. I would do a manometer reading to rule out the AOS. Check out Jake Raby's YouTube channel and look up the video "Does you AOS suck?". 

http://www.youtube.com/c/RennvisionbyTheKnowledgeGruppe?sub_confirmation=1

When I had my clutch serviced and also did the IMS bearing. The RMS was fine, but the IMS was leaking oil from the flange. I went ahead and had the RMS done as well. 

On 3/6/2019 at 2:36 PM, Jared Eager said:

3.2 motor went...looking to put a bigger displacement motor (3.4 or 3.6) Looking to get car to 350 hp or more. Easiest way to do this?? 

IMHO, it depends on how much you love that car. If you do love it, than take JFP's advice and hook up with Jake Raby and Flat 6 Innovations. If you don't, I would just get rid of it and buy something newer or comparable in performance. The Boxster values are going down the toilet. You can replace the car in many cases cheaper than putting another engine it. 

Bore Scoring Part 2 is Live!