B3-CPO

On 2/6/2019 at 11:46 PM, Kai Manuel said:

How do you read the error codes?

Take Ahsai's advice. Make a video of the car at idle from both banks of the engine under neither. 

Just thought I pass this along. Very informative. I'm a 996 owner, but this covers the 997 too. Check it out...

Jake Raby is producing a series on Bore Scoring for all of those that may be interested. The first part was just put on YouTube. Great information on a very important topic for us 996 owners.

19 hours ago, rockhouse66 said:

My spoiler is a factory XAG option code, described simply as "Carrera Spoiler" on the build sheet. Looks like this:

 

 

Wow... Beautiful car. Love that color! And the side skirts and Carrera rear spoiler really make the car unique. Be thankful, that rear spoiler is very expensive and is the one I linked to on Suncoast Porsche's website. But as mentioned before, the aero requirements are not the same as the GT3 Aero kit II. Porsche strongly recommends you at least get the matching GT3 rear wing if you install the aero GT3 front bumper... or vice versa. Happy motoring! Perfect car for the NC mountains!

23 hours ago, rockhouse66 said:

I don't mean to start an argument with this, but just adding some info.  My '04 Cab has the optional factory side skirts and rear wing.  I have studied the 2004 Cab option list and apparently no front spoiler was available so this is as close as the original purchaser could come to buying an "aerokit" for this car.  Porsche must have considered this combination of parts OK w/o a front spoiler.

I also question whether the aero imbalance issue is relevant at normal speeds and might only come into play at Autobahn speeds (as in 100 MPH plus)?

You're not being contentious at all. This is what forums are about. Love to see your rear wing. Are you talking about the "Carrera Rear Spoiler" that is cross capable to the Coupe? 

Here a link for ref. - 

The "carrera rear spoiler" doesn't require the aero front bumper... At least by Porsche standards. But The OP is referring to the GT3 aero kit II rear wing. The GT3 front aero bumper and rear wing should be installed at the same time. Of course, the side skirt have little effect, but do make the car look complete IMHO. But it's important to mention again that the GT3 aero rear wing is not compatible with Cabriolets. The clam shell won't be able to open.

On 1/3/2019 at 3:20 AM, Alex Chardy said:

So if I wanted to do it I’d have to get the front spoiler as well

 

As a previous cab owner myself, the Porsche OEM GT3 rear wing will not work on cabriolets because the cam shell will hit the wing while trying to open the convertible top. Loren is also right, Porsche strongly recommends matching the correct GT3 rear wing with the front GT3 aero front bumper. Downforce is balanced across the entire car. An imbalance at high speed could be very dangerous. 

That's a super cool offer! How does it clamp down to the locking mechanism? Does it just sit on top or are there some kind of clips?

Very nice design. How much would say it costs to produce this piece?

This guy is selling a bunch that look to be in good shape. He has it listed as a "Carrera" rock molding, but I crossed referenced the part number and Porsche said it was for the wide body 996 cars -i.e. Turbo and C4S.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PORSCHE-CARRERA-911-ROCKER-MOLDING-RIGHT-2001-2002-2003-2004-2005-996-504-364-00/223145709750?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D1da97e065a7141f29b5d917a610cd53c%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D323592899459%26itm%3D223145709750&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A64ce2915-ff02-11e8-9e15-74dbd180a887|parentrq%3Aa8c3692a1670ab4527d95a22fff667c1|iid%3A1

Well, it definitely looks busted up. The C4S/Turbo side skirts are terribly expensive. You might find replacing it would be the best course of action. I can confirm that my factory side skirt did not have the gap that is highlighting in your picture. 

I've installed the GT3 side skirts on my last 996 and normally the wheel well covers the side skirts. Those three holes is where a rubber air dam should mount. Is that what you're talking about?

Nothing like a black 911! And, those headlights are the perfect shape too! ha!

On 12/11/2018 at 11:54 AM, dporto said:

 

I did my " IMS Solution" myself (as well as cam chains, pads, clutch etc.) pretty straight forward stuff. When it recently became obvious I'd need a full re-build, I decided to send it to the Pro's at Flat6 (the act of inserting the wrist pin clips and properly gaping the rings made me a little nervous). I decided on the "Track Performer" motor. While my bank account will be considerably lighter, I'll sleep well knowing my engine is fixed for the life of the car...?

Please report back once you get the car back from Flat 6. We expect lots of photos, GoPro video, and nice narration with music underneath.  ?

Hands down... the Porsche Carrera "C2" RWD. Then budget to have the RMS, IMS, Clutch, and AOS taken care of.

Cheers!

Great! Enjoy your Christmas holidays with that nice 996!

3 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

And yet people regularly argue here and elsewhere that you can put a new bearing in an engine already full of metal and get away with it.

Yep! Water on a duck's back! 

On 11/8/2018 at 5:34 PM, JFP in PA said:

 

Not surprisingly, if you follow these manuals instructions and take your time, it is really not that difficult. Most people that we see in trouble "after the fact" either did not follow the instructions, or decided for unknown reasons to take a short cut.  Follow the instructions and you will be fine.

Good advice! Yea, the instruction manual is written very well and with the video, it should minimize the common mistakes that are made when carrying a project of this complexity. What I really appreciate is Jake's willingness to discuss in great detail the steps of pre-qualification and it's so important. Can't tell you how many threads I've read where shops installed a new IMS bearing on a car that had preexisting metal contamination which eventually took out the newer bearing.  Ouch.

Check all shift cables/connectors under the center console and at the tranny. These are known parts to pop off causing shifting issues. 

Totally, 100% agree with avoiding aftermarket parts. I also tried to save money on a window regulator. Ahsai told me to not waste the time and money and pay for the Porsche OEM. I didn't take his advice and bought the Chinese knockoff for about $60.00. Spent a half day on a nice Saturday installing it. After a month, the regulator crapped out. I learned my lesson the hard way. The same thing goes for Porsche expansion tanks, buy the Porsche OEM, not aftermarket. It's a pain in the butt to install and I've heard of people having to do it several times until they learned to buy the Porsche OEM part. Cheers brothas!

22 hours ago, wyovino said:

Not something I would ever attempt but it was interesting to watch.  I'll leave it to the experts.

Amen, to that! I don't have the right tools or lift to do it safely on my own, but with the wealth of information that Jake is willing to offer, I'm pretty sure it will help someone that does. But I completely agree, some things are better left for those that have the right training and expertise to tackle a job like this. 

For those, like me, that have learned a wealth of information from Jake Raby, The Knowledge Gruppe has just started a YouTube channel called "Rennvision". He posted a simple iPad video on Bore Scoring and now posted a DIY video on installing the IMS Solution plus some videos on many of the LN tool kits he helped engineer and develop. Pretty cool stuff. 

Check it out...

The key system is more sophisticated than many want to admit. It's electronically actuated and linked to the alarm/immobilizer system in the car. This is not a old Chevy I'm afraid. hahaha

First things first... have you tried using the laser cut key to manually open the door? This would rule out the locking actuator. Have you tried testing the keyfob to lock and unlock the passenger door? Does the horn honk? or, just the the turn signals blink?

Great! Just remember, to take your time and be patient. The speaker enclosure is a little frustrating to get inside the door, but it will fit. Also, to avoid scratching or damaging the window, alway have it in *UP* position. 

Don't get hypersensitivity disorder. I've noticed lots of 996 owners with coolant system problems this year. We own 20 year old cars... maybe it's just time? Heck, my 996 expansion tank just started leaking couple of weeks ago too. Just got the tank in from Porsche and will plan to replace it this week or next. I've known people that had to replace them multiple times partly because they chose to purchase aftermarket tanks instead of the more proven OEM. 

Now regarding the "rough idle"... have you tried to hooking up to a Durametric and evaluate the rough running indexes? I lot of the problems associated with rough idle can be attributed to our modern fuels. I'm sure lots of people immediately think it's faulty coil packs, but instead, it can be something simple like clogged injectors or a dirty MAF. Cross one bridge at a time. 

Flat 6 Innovations is the best in the business. Glad to hear you made the right choice to get them to reconstruct your engine. I would listen to Jake's advice before making any hasty moves financially. Lot of people overreact, start throwing money at the symptoms instead of the source of the problem. 

The OEM speaker enclosures go *inside* the door, not mount on top of the weather seal. The part where you see the bar code "security seal" mounts behind the outer door shell. (notice with the OEM green line is coming out) You'll need to carefully cut the opening and noodle the enclosure into the door hole. The door should have the proper door fasteners to secure the enclosure to the door. Good luck!