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B3-CPO

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Posts posted by B3-CPO

  1. 9 hours ago, Johnny-5 said:

     

    Thank you for the recommendations. I'm tempted to try this myself but like you I may just go with a shop. 

     

     

    So I got a question before LN Engineering was the way to go but there seems to be another company I heard nothing but good things on which is EPS which utilizes a cylindrical bearing design which also claims the life of the engine. Anyone tried that company?

     

    I have no dog in this fight. I'm not going to risk my $20K+ motor on a roller or ball bearing design, IMHO. Everything I've read over the years shows risks from radial load on roller bearings which potentially could lead to failure, but I guess the cylindrical roller bearing is their "solution"? Problems associated with ball bearings is why we're in the this mess in the first place. I believe the IMS solution by LN with it's oil fed plain bearing design is the best technology out there. Why do you think the Mezger engines are so valuable to racing?... one of the reasons is because of it's durability on the track. Those Mezger engines use a plain bearing design on their shafts. 

  2. 4 hours ago, donkeydee said:

    Thanks for the info. What model Autel do you use.

    I bought mine three years ago and Autel has since discontinued it. But it's the MD702. I paid a couple hundred for it which I thought was a good deal. Their pro systems exceed $1000. Just make sure you buy one that will read all of the modules on your Porsche 996.

     

    https://www.auteltech.com/autelcms/Discontinued Products/365.jhtml

  3. 10 hours ago, ttocs said:

    I've done a lot of work on cars way back when, and I do most of the work on my 986, but I had the IMS done by an independent shop. The labor was about 2-1/2 to 3 times the amount of what the tools would've cost. For this operation having a warranty was a major deciding factor, especially when weighed against the possible savings available.

     

    The "might as wells" included the AOS, RMS, and Trans Fluid/Filter.

     

    Also, when a LN Engineering approved shop does the work, they check first to see if the engine is "qualified" for a Retrofit bearing, thus securing the warranty.

     

    Lastly, the bearing choices from LN at the time I had mine done were the Single Row Retrofit or the IMS Solution, and I went with the Retrofit since it was about $1,000 less. Anything other than a plain bearing is a maintenance part - it'll need to be done again in the future. Knowing what I know now, I would've gone with the Solution.

     

     

    I agree 100%, go with the ONLY US patented IMS bearing that will last longer than the life of most of the components on the M96 engine - The IMS Solution! 

  4. 3 hours ago, donkeydee said:

    Hi

    I am new to the forum but have a problem with my 996 cabriolet. When I lock the car with the fob it makes a noise like its trying to lock but unlocks, but then the second time it locks properly but the horn beeps twice. It also beeps twice when unlocking. I know that it will probably be a micro switch but is there any way of narrowing it down.

     

    I have an Autel Scanner that will read all the modules on my Porsche 996. Works great with my Volvos too. Without a doubt it has paid for itself. I was having the same frustrating double horn honk too. Replaced a faulty microswitch on the front lid (i.e. frunk) and it fixed the problem. The scanner will help point you to the source of the problem if you can't find the culprit by using common sense observation.

  5. 12 hours ago, bobbyboy77 said:

    Thanks so much for the responses.  I got it checked out. My mechanic suggested used or rebuilt heads. Oil changed and after 1/2 hour running no smoke, cloudy oil or overheating

    So basically what you're saying is that you noticed the problem, had a mechanic examine more closely and determined that the intermix was because of a cracked head? Now, you've decided to sell it instead of head repair? Have you cleaned the coolant system of the damaging oil/coolant intermix?

  6. 2 hours ago, bobbyboy77 said:

    I have a 2000, clean title, cal car, 6 speed, runs and drives great, every option works, cab, no smoke, engine runs strong, good oil pressure, coolant lines forming milky substance.  I;m in it to deep to fix, want to sell it to someone, or find a used good running engine for good price and do an engine swap....car is very clean, no dents, no rust....newer top with glass rear window...all original owner books and complete 120,000 mile big service.

     

    How long has the car been sitting with intermix? Have tried to drive it in this condition?

  7. 12 hours ago, mdragon said:

    How? What is the key to each of the numbers?
    Thx!
    Julie


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

     

    Just adding to what Loren said... 

     

    The engine number M96/03AT665 68531 translates to...

     

    M96/03 = 3.6L motor 

     

    AT = denotes factory replacement engine

     

    6 = 6 Cylinders 

     

    6 = Natural Aspirating Motor

     

    5 = date of manufacture = 2005

     

    68531 = actual serial number

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  8. (see attached picture) I had the same problem and it was the microswitch that was broken. The trigger is made of plastic and over time it will break. This may be more reason not to slam a Porsche hood. hahaha Anyway, on the switch on the right you can see the plastic part that is broken. With the main piece broken, the circuit was complete; therefore, the light stayed on. Of course, the one of the left is the replacement and when the hood is closed, the plastic trigger rotates clockwise thereby not allowing the electrical signal to ground out.

     

    Regarding the frunk light, I unplug mine because of the pains associated with the 996 and dead batteries. It's a tiny little worthless light. Personally, I carry a very powerful LED flashlight, but that's just me. Too many of my forum friends have been locked out of their cars because of a dead battery and the culprits are usually something like a frunk or rear deck lid light. IMHO. 

    microswitch.jpg

  9. 1 hour ago, hugo kohl said:

    I replaced my water pump and thermostat at the same time as coolant tank so I don't see this as a problem and in any case, the car is not overheating, rather it is running at ideal temp.

     

    Im wondering if it could be the wires connected to the coolant tank sensor and will be checking these next.  

    Then I would follow Loren's instructions from the shop manual to more closely identify the culprit. 

  10. 2 hours ago, hugo kohl said:

    99, c2, 120k

    Upon startup I get a red blinking light on my temperature gauge.  Car has not been overheating, coolant level is good, engine compartment fan is good and I don't have any coolant leaks.  I changed my coolant tank out about 6 months ago and everything has been fine since.

     

    Any suggestions?

    Question for clarity... You said "car has not been overheating", but is the car overheating now when you're getting the warning light? What is the temp reading on the gauge when the light is blinking?

  11. 40 minutes ago, hugo kohl said:

    99, c2, 120k

    Upon startup I get a red blinking light on my temperature gauge.  Car has not been overheating, coolant level is good, engine compartment fan is good and I don't have any coolant leaks.  I changed my coolant tank out about 6 months ago and everything has been fine since.

     

    Any suggestions?

    Have you removed the bumper and cleaned the front radiators in the last year or two?

     

    Also, you should check your water pump. If it hasn't been changed in the last 20K miles, I would plan to replace it. There's a slight chance the impellers have broken off and blocking some of the coolant passages. Let's hope not. 

  12. 9 hours ago, azz said:

    Thanks for all the replies, appreciate your help!

     

    I was able to contact previous owner through the dealer, turns out it's a combo of bluetooth adapter and FM transmitter + custom power toggle and 3.5mm input (disabled, was working through FM transmitter before bluetooth). So it works, the problem is of course noticeable difference in sound quality and what's more important — collision with other radio stations that makes it hard to listen to

     

    So far I'm thinking about custom 2-din Android multimedia, I have that installed in 2010 Cayenne and it's much better than standard system

     

    I upgraded my CDR-23 on my last Carrera to an aftermarket double din system. Wasn't the easiest job since I was dealing with a proprietary "MOST" based system with six channels. You'll need to be prepared to purchase a suitable wire harness and frunk amp in addition to the double din head unit. 

     

    Also, you'll need a mounting kit. Here's the most popular...

     

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Metra-99-9605B-Single-Double-DIN-Dash-Kit-For-Porsche-911-996-1999-2005-Boxs/192480514891?hash=item2cd0bb934b%3Ag%3AmLEAAOSw3dtappky&_sacat=0&_nkw=Porsche+996+metra+double+din&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313

     

     

     

  13. I just looked at the installation section in the manual for the Pioneer and see no special connection for the brake sensor. I would recommend resetting the unit by pulling the fuse(s) for the head unit and amp. If you have the hifi system from factory that could mean 3 fuses. I could be mistaken, but I believe the Pioneer unit uses GPS data to recognize if the vehicle is in motion or parked. 

     

    After resetting the fuses. Follow this procedure. See att. pic.

     

     

    pioneerreset.jpeg

  14. On 6/9/2018 at 10:43 AM, Don VanLandingham said:

    How do you get to the back frame screws if the seat is back and the forward/backward motor is dead?

     

    Ouch, you say the seat motor is dead?

     

    You've checked for blown fuses and seat connections, right? Fuse E3

     

    There is a TSB on the 2001 996TT. (see att pic) Also, you may try gently tapping the seat's sliding bracket with a small hammer. Sometime there's resistance enough to jam the motor. 

     

    If that's not the fix, you can try using the vertical motor to get the seat high enough to work to remove and replace the motor. Won't be easy. Good luck

     

  15. Nice job! Curious... based on your title (i.e. 2002 C2), you've taken a 2000 Mk1 Carrera and converted it to a GT3 Mk2 aero kit, correct? What kind of cost for the Aero bits and full paint?  Looks like a top-notch job given the fact that they removed the doors, all weather seals, hood, and bumpers. I'm guessing here... you have more than $15,000 for the a paint job and aero kit?

     

    It's looks really good... Only thing I'd add is the mk2 GT3 18" wheels to match. Those older 17" turbo twist don't do the car with it's new look any justice, IMHO. 

     

     

    • Upvote 1
  16. On 7/5/2018 at 12:12 AM, 996C4NDF said:

    My key fob won't work randomly. It will sometimes unlock and sometimes won't. I had to get AAA to open it the other day because the key fob didn't do anything and my key hole broken. In addition now the rear windows won't roll up. Anyone have these issues?

     

    Do you have a spare keyfob or is the malfunctioning key the only set you have for your 996? Your answer to that question will determine the next step.

  17. On 7/5/2018 at 4:40 PM, wyovino said:

     

    Is there anything I can check in the meantime? 

     

     

    I've also read about a lot of homemade patches in order to avoid not having to replace the oil filler tube, but I'm a little reluctant to say thats good advice. Seems like a lot of the more experts say that lots of problems can come about from vacuum leaks. Is the crack right at the end of the flex section? Have you tried a simple vacuum test to see if it's sucking air?

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