tristancboyd@gmail.com

Just dropping in for an update.  The car is still running perfectly.  Cold starts aren't an issue, power is up and gas mileage is as well

1

Glad to hear that! This must be the longest MAF thread on renntech and thanks for the reps. Appreciate those.

 

Looking back...this could have been solved on page 1 after post #14 :)

SHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!! Lol.  Lesson learned.  And on the brightside... there was some possibility that the AOS was on its way out... right?  maybe?  The tubes and boots where definitely bad, I have pics of those.

 

 

Thanks for the update and I'll keep my fingers crossed for you :)

I want to call this one solved!  The cold weather start this morning was flawless!  It has power and responsiveness I didn't know it had.  This has been a long one, Plugs, tubes (leaking and cracked), boots (Cracked and torn), AOS, TB and intake tube cleaning (oily and dirty), lots of data logging and three MAF's (probably should have just been one!!!!) and I think its finally over!  While there were some contributors that probably were not helping, I'd say the primary issue was the non-Bosch MAF.  This should be a PSA or sticky, just because it looks identical doesn't mean its made identical.  Bosch MAF's ONLY in these cars!!!

 

A Big thank you to Ahsai and JFP for sticking it out with me, giving me feedback and reviewing my data!  I would have been lost!

 

 

Don't be down on yourself about getting the wrong MAF, a lot of people have learned the same lesson the hard way.  I'm just glad it is finally sorted.

 

Thanks man!  I appreciate it!

Thanks for the update and I'll keep my fingers crossed for you :)

I want to call this one solved!  The cold weather start this morning was flawless!  It has power and responsiveness I didn't know it had.  This has been a long one, Plugs, tubes (leaking and cracked), boots (Cracked and torn), AOS, TB and intake tube cleaning (oily and dirty), lots of data logging and three MAF's (probably should have just been one!!!!) and I think its finally over!  While there were some contributors that probably were not helping, I'd say the primary issue was the non-Bosch MAF.  This should be a PSA or sticky, just because it looks identical doesn't mean its made identical.  Bosch MAF's ONLY in these cars!!!

A Big thank you to Ahsai and JFP for sticking it out with me, giving me feedback and reviewing my data!  I would have been lost!

So far so good.  It feels like a totally different car.  I don't think it felt this good to drive when I originally bought it.  The throttle is perfectly responsive and the engine runs very smooth.  I hope tomorrow mornings cold weather start is just as good.

Guess I didn't.  I'll put those back into the recordings and log the drives to and from work tomorrow.

Based on your last drive log (4:19pm today), everything looks pretty normal now! Warm idle MAF reads 4~5g/s..right on. Would be good to log the O2 sensor readings as well.

 

Let's see if it cures the cold start issue on Thurs.

The time must be off.  I was definitely not home from work yet then.  I thought that I had the o2 sensor's on there???  I'll take a look.  I also took a reading with the manometer and its steadier even with revs.  its holding a 5.2 in H20

 

Yes John. You, Loren and me all had mentioned the MAF but the OP did replace the newly replaced MAF with yet another new MAF in post #31. I assumed that was a Bosch unit as a response to our comments but it was not.

 

So this will be the first time a Bosch MAF is fit in this case.

 

And I've been wondering about that MAF since this conversation began.

 

You are right.  The MAF was replaced for me free of charge once the first one seemed bad.  I figured the odds of the original Bosch, replacement non-Bosch then its replacement could all be the problems.  I just took another longer drive into town and was data logging the whole time.  The car feels much more responsive and never popped once.  The idle was nice and steady.  The big test will be Thursday morning, it supposed to be in the 30's around the time I leave for work so we'll see how the startup goes.

Side note (i reviewed the carfax late last night and saw where it was noted that the dealer changed the MAF around 41k miles on the car as well)

When I got home today I took the AOS back out to check the o-ring, I thought maybe i damaged it or that it wasn't seated right, then put it back in, I put the Bosch MAF in then took it for a long enough drive for it to hit temp.  The issue may be solved.  I will drive it to work tomorrow to see how it does.  

I also made sure to log the trip, its available with the same log in information.

Yeah, try unplug the MAF and reset the DME also and see how the car drives.

I may try that tomorrow, I didn't have the time with stuff going on around the house this evening.  The Bosch MAF will be here tomorrow.  I did start the car and just let it warm up so I could get a log of what its doing from a stand still if you wanted to check it out.  towards the end I shut it off, unplugged the MAF, reset the codes (there weren't any though) and let it run for a few more minutes under the same log.

I just ordered the Bosch Unit, it will be here tomorrow.  

I checked your log. The problem is intermittent. When it occurs, the MAF read very high even at idle speed. It was 7g/s (i.e., 25.2kg/hr) or higher. The fuel trim pegs out at -25% (short term fuel trim) so the engine was running rich. All O2 sensors have high sustained (0.7v) voltage (too rich). Is the MAF a Bosch unit?

 

Also, when this condition happened, the throttle position always read 2.35239% fixed. That looks odd. Also, LTFT values are always fixed so not sure how much we can trust the Torque log values. 

It is not a Bosch.  Should I unplug it and take it for a drive and see what readings change with it?

BTW, one possibility is a sticky evap purge valve (that feeds into the throttle body). It can create a too lean or too rich condition, depending on how rich or lean the fuel vapor is at the time in the gas tank.

I'll try to find some information on this and see if there is a way to clean it up.

Someone on another forum thinks its the Variocam stuff.... from what I've read, I really hope not.

Concerning your last video "Surging idle", the parking brake must be engaged for a proper measurement when the wheels are off the ground, otherwise the transmission and the wheels are a little dragged by the engine, causing a slight difference in RPM at idle due to no torque. 

This was with the car in neutral. clutch in or out didn't change it.

Would you mind looking at the log from last night when I was having all of these issues and see if anything stand out?  

http://torque-bhp.com/

Device Id: 990005434631165

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHooRxkJUhM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMti0wVf3zE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=930bTqfFtig

I tried that but I'm not sure if I got the sequence or timing right.  I have a few videos to link too.  The idle was surging between 5-700 RPMS and the lights would dim with the drops.  I have video of it too.  I'll have it up in a few minutes

Are you sure the plenum connections are air-tight. Those hose clams can be tricky. Perhaps retrace what you have removed and reinstalled and make sure all the connections (electrical connectors as well) are tight?

I took extra time with those to make sure I got them on right.  When I put everything back together, I sprayed everything (carefully) with carb cleaner to see if I had any vacuum leaks.  I double checked the connectors as well.  It is possible I missed something but I won't get to crack into until after work tomorrow.

Ok guys, I'm really needing some help.  Initially I thought it was running better but I was dead wrong.  It sounds better driving and any accelleration over 2k rpm but take off have become a night mare and have only gotten worse as the day went on.  It got to the point where I didn't feel safe driving it in town because I was stalling out multiple times at lights.  I got a CEL once today, a P1117 but i read it was an o2 sensor deal.  I checked my readouts and all four were reading around .07 so i cleared the code and nothing has come back.  

Sounds like a plan, Thanks y'all.

A light coat of oil is normal. It's hard to tell from the photos. They don't look too bad to me though.

The picture on the ride side, middle shows a small puddle I guess you could say.  There is about the same amount sitting in the flange like area exiting the AOS for where it connects behind the throttle body.  Should I go ahead and change it since I have a new OEM one here?

That looks good me. I'm not sure if the slight vacuum fluctuation when you blipped the throttle is normal or not. Probably it is.

Ok.  Did y'all at some point say that oil inside the intake bridges (i forgot what they are called) could be another sign?  I'm in the process of removing the throttle body and its looking nasty in there from what I can see so far.  I'll post a picture in a few once I get it all of the way out.

Here's a 6 minute video of a cold start with the manometer reading.  It was either having a good day for starting or wasn't cold enough to cause the problem completely.  At the 5:25 mark, during a rev, you can hear the car pop, it sounded like a small backfire or intake pop, but that is a symptom and does it more often on the harder starts.

https://youtu.be/WK4wps8SeOI

The P0102 means MAF no/low signal, shorted to ground, etc. I would check the MAF electrical connection and continuity of the wires between the MAF and the DME.

I will add this to my ever growing list.  I'll likely crack this thing open to start everything on Saturday morning.  I still love my car though.