tristancboyd@gmail.com

What MAF and p/n are you using?

996 606 124 00

lets throw a p0102 code into this now........................  MAF circuit low voltage.

And some epoxy or sealant to seal it too.

Or a couple of good compression seals to go under the bulkhead fitting nuts.

Quoted you guys just for notification.  I'm waiting for the new cap to come in.  I have a log this morning, started logging before I started the car, The car started pretty fair but if you zoom in to around the 6:28 mark, you can see the idle get erratic until I get back in the car to leave.  I also noticed that it claims speed is reported in MPH but that's definitely KMH.  I do not drive that fast with my son in the car!

The manometer will be in today but I didn't think to order a replacement oil cap.  I'll try to see if I can get one local.

Have you ever changed the motor mounts? Could the engine be shifting creating a gap in some line?

I have not changed them, I haven't seen an issue with them where they have required it.

Correction, I remember it happened turning left onto a street or at an intersection yesterday, I don't see which one it could have been though.  

I also wish it was logging when I first left the house this morning, it started up pretty decent for a change (but its also somewhere between 60-70 degrees out today) but as soon as I pulled out of the drive, it was a dog and wouldn't hardly go at all.  

I decided to do some data logging this morning on the way to grab some breakfast and as I was going, it dawned on me to add throttle position and vacuum to the list, of course one thought came after the other.  When I got back home, and looked it up, I saw that I have been logging for days without realizing it because I had not turned the app off.  The most recent log has vacuum and throttle position.  There is a longer trip from yesterday where some of the pops and hesitations occurred too, I'm just not a data genius.  I'll review it and circle it though since I remember where in my trip one instance specifically happened.

http://view.torque-bhp.com/

Device ID: 990005434631165

That and to verify the new AOS is working properly. If you don't measure, you may also change out a good AOS unnecessarily.

These meters are getting cheaper.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00N3PPZZY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1456019143&sr=8-2π=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=digital+manometer

Alright, I had one day left of amazon prime trial with free two day shipping so I ordered it.  Beats paying someone else to do it.  Now I just need to rig a cap right?

So Y'all are saying that I REALLY need to get my hands on one of these things before I pull it, if anything, for data purposes... just in case?

This discussion is amazing.  Just reading over this, I bet an experiment like this could yield useful information.  I just got back from a meet a little bit ago.  I experienced a few times so popping and lack of power at low RPM's or some take offs from a slow coast or stop.  I'm probably going to go out in a few an look over the sensor readings with it idling for a bit and also look at the temp readouts as well.  The AOS will be replaced when it comes in a few days from now.

 

 

Its not simple to a shop that dose not how to do it. Or have the correct tooling to work on these cars!

I went to the largest Porsche dealership in the area, and they seemed familiar with the AOS when I asked them to specifically check it as well.

 

 

Just remember one thing about dealerships:  Good techs typically leave dealerships and go to work for independent shops, both because they can make more money, and don't have to toe the corporate line.  A lot of dealerships out there will still tell you that it is impossible to replace the IMS in one of these cars without tearing the engine apart, even though it has been done everyday of the week for over eight years now in the field.

 

This is something I didn't know.  I have really never messed with dealerships much (always worked on my own stuff and could just go to a retail parts place for stuff) and I guess that part of the reason is I never expected much from them other than the corporate bottom line.  This car has been my first venture into something that wasn't your couple-thousand car beater.  I guess with the name and the way the staff has treated me when I went there to order a few things, I expected more from the tech side.  I guess I was little naive there.

Its not simple to a shop that dose not how to do it. Or have the correct tooling to work on these cars!

I went to the largest Porsche dealership in the area, and they seemed familiar with the AOS when I asked them to specifically check it as well.

Would the condition of the orings on the plug tubes effect the reading of that?

Well ****. I may have to call them out on that one. That kinda ticks me off.

I did go ahead and order it as soon as I got back this morning.

I suggested that and they said it wasn't that simple.  So I really just paid to get my airbag light turned off.........................................................................

They said to replace the rest of the spark plug tubes ( I recently did the driver side due to a bad oil leak), change the AOS (they couldn't directly diagnose it and said there wasn't as much smoke as they were used to seeing) and then see if it clears up.  They suspect a vacuum issue.

It felt a little tight but unfortunately I think the description may be too subjective here.  I needed my airbag light reset anyway and Porsche charges a diag fee for that (I couldn't find anyone local with a durametric) so I'm going to ask them to check a few specifics when they hook the car up tomorrow morning.

 

I tried the calibration and nothing really seemed to change. I haven't checked the sensor but I stumbled across something this morning. It was running rough like it does every cold morning barely idling. I removed the oil fill cap and it made the sound of pulling a lot of vacuum and then the car died. Related maybe?

That is the tell tail sign that your AOS has failed and needs to be replaced.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBjATgWi9EA

I took a quick video and you can hear the idle of the car significanty changing and the sound of the vacuum.  

I tried the calibration and nothing really seemed to change. I haven't checked the sensor but I stumbled across something this morning. It was running rough like it does every cold morning barely idling. I removed the oil fill cap and it made the sound of pulling a lot of vacuum and then the car died. Related maybe?

I'm back.  I replaced the MAF and it was all happy happy again.........  Until we hit a cold snap down here again.  Cold start in cold weather again has led me to the issue and it takes several attempts and playing with the throttle to get it to run.  This morning was a hair easier but it kept surging.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1yqiO-s7pqk&feature=youtu.be

UPDATE: (A prefix note: It's about 30-40F colder than the previous days of TS.) The alternator was on the way out causing some issue but not all of them.  Today I wanted to double check a few things before yanking the alternator, just for due diligence.  The alternator is indeed dead but I also could not get the car to start and stay running.  In fact, getting it to fire off was a pain in the *** and if I could get it to struggle, it'd pop.  So while rolling video, I said eff it and pull the plug on the MAF (the new one) and tried again and it fired right up cold and I could definitely tell a difference in the smell of the exhaust (sitting in an open garage, it was obvious, I don't sniff tailpipes lmao).  Annnnnndddddd saw that my water pump is going out.  ugh.  

A massive thanks to Ahsai and JFP and also feel free to say... "I told you so."  

You guys really know your stuff.

What's the voltmeter reading at

1),cold start

2) driving with low beam and a/c ON

If the headlight flickers, you definitely have a problem with your battery or charging system.

I planned on doing this Friday but I got some news this morning from the car on the way into work.  It seems the alternator was failing.  I went to make a pass and as soon as I dropped gears and released the clutch, everything got a little dimmer and the battery light came on.  I'll be confirming with the DMM tonight.

It's been a busy week or two with my four year old going to daycare/preschool for the first time ever and getting adjusted to new schedules.  I do have somewhat of an update, but no resolution.  

The idle issue has correlated with showing its ugly face with the car not being driven for a couple of days or longer.  I've also noticed that the car turns over noticeably slower, but not completely weak and the lights in the car seem to have a bit of a pulse for a few minutes.  This has me wondering if perhaps the battery is beginning to fail and properly supply the vehicle with the required voltage and current needed to operate properly until the alternator is able to catch it back up.

So I'm back.  I haven't really noticed anything lately but it's also been unusually and record-breaking warm here.  

I went out before work this evening and started the car to let it warm up before leaving (I wanted heat!!!)  After about two minutes I went back outside to let my dogs out and didn't hear the car running.  The engine stopped.  I started it back up, a little lopey, no CEL but it settled and I went back in.  About two minutes later, I heard the idle start to get a little erratic and lopey again and then the engine quit again.  I went out and started it a third time, gave it a few revs and held some small revs for a few seconds.  This time it stayed running but I shot some video for you more knowledgeable folk.  

It was roughly 35F outside and the car had not been driven since the day before.  

Still no CEL and once it was warm, it ran like a scared cat, zero issues.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N2M1U3IKcTc