tristancboyd@gmail.com

Thank you all very much.  I will continue to monitor for a bit.  If it continues to behave without issue, I'll mark this solved.  The feedback between y'all has been so informative and helpful just in learning a few things is why I decided to contribute to this forum.

Between yesterday and today, the idle has not acted up once.  Today there was not any hesitiation to be found.  I decided to look at the system status again, and everything has completed.  I'm debating on whether to pursue this further or let it be and hope it doesn't act up again.  You guys are a wealth of information!

I think I got some really good data today and I have it uploaded to the torque web viewer.  It can be seen publicly but putting my torque ID in, no password required for viewing.  I'd just snip it and paste but then you cant see the specific values as you mouse over them.  I also have the  CSV values for the logs if someone is able to view those.  Oddly enough, it behaved today at idle.  Still a little hesitation starting around 2200.

It's the 3.2, 6-speed.  

Other than the desnorkle, its completely stock

http://view.torque-bhp.com/

Device ID: 990005434631165

 

Anyone near my area with a Durametric?  Moncks Corner, SC

 

Just asking because I would like to get a reading on something and reset my airbag light.  Thanks!

 

You might also want to post on the website for your local PCA chapter (which is probably The Palmetto region) as well.

 

I am not familiar with this.  I will look it up and check it out.

STFT 1 appears twice and LTFT1 is missing. The two "F/T..." are not needed. We still need the O2 sensor voltage from all 4 O2 sensors. Not clear to me but is the MAF by Bosch? If not, I think it's a strong suspect.

Not familiar with the desnorkle mod but can it be reversed?

I missed that I had repeated read outs.  I put it up in a hurry.  I'll set up the read out dashboard now and make sure its good to go for the morning.  The MAF is probably not Bosch, I do not remember seeing anything that would link it to Bosch.

The desnorkle is more of a sound modification than anything.  It's removing a sound baffle from the intake tube in the side of the car.  

Anyone near my area with a Durametric?  Moncks Corner, SC

Just asking because I would like to get a reading on something and reset my airbag light.  Thanks!

Agree with John your MAF reading is way too high at warm idle. It should be around 4g/s at idle speed ~680-700rpm.

What kind of MAF sensor you put in and are you sure it's the right one for your model?

It would be useful to log the following (at idle) in Torque during cold start and after fully warmed up:

- short term fuel trims on both banks

- long term fuel trims on both banks

- Bank 1 O2 sensor 1 voltage

- Bank 1 O2 sensor 2 voltage

- Bank 2 O2 sensor 1 voltage

- Bank 2 O2 sensor 2 voltage

- MAF

- coolant temp

- rpm

I set these up in my app almost exact but messed up the logging, I'm going to try again in the morning.

The only Mod I have is a desnorkle, everything else is otherwise stock.

I put a few screen shots below

The MAF I ordered is this one

Sorry, but I am not familiar with the reporting values diagnostics tool you are using; Porsche systems fuel trims are rated according to reading your FRA (load) and TRA (idle) adaptation values for each bank, with the FRA range limits on adaptation for both banks are Rich: 1.25 and Lean: 0.75 (For example, an "in spec" "long term" FRA trim would be around 1.0 +/- 0.1 and an in spec "idle range" fuel trim would be in the range 0.00 +/- .2).  Porsche also set the MAF values at 10-20 Kg/Hr. at idle, and 30-60 Kg/Hr. at 3K RPM (no load).  If your tool is reading in gram/second, 6.8 gram/sec at idle would equate to 24.5 Kg/Hr., which would be a high air mass at idle (a possible lean condition).  I also note that your secondary air system is reading "incomplete", which could be related to the problem you are seeing.

 

If at all possible, I would suggest getting the car rescanned with a Porsche specific tool (PST II, PIWIS, or Durametric system).

I don't have access to one of those but using this information, I'll see if I can't clean up the read-outs to something a little more useful for this troubleshooting.  And also, I appreciate your help.  Thank you.

This was off of a warm start, I figured it would be a useful reference.  as soon as I can get cold start data, I'll share it as well.

The spike is a rev

I can't remember now exactly. I believe the description had something to due with low voltage or something with the MAF.  Low-something.  helpful, I know but I cleared it several weeks ago.

Also, tonight I noticed that where I thought it was running fine, there seems to be a dip or hesitation between 2000-2700ish RPMS.

Still no codes

Hey all, here's a video of the problem I'm having.  It was happening when I was getting a MAF sensor code.  I've replaced it, reset the codes, driven two tanks and am still having this issue.  Other than this issue, the car runs great and is getting 24-26mpg average.

2002 Boxster S

6-Speed

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFVuFkICEPk

 

Sounds like you have a two stalk system (upper left stalk and upper right stalk) with no cruise control or On-Board Computer (OBC).

 

It's not uncommon for the hi-low beam switch to need to be replaced. 

 

New 2 stalk steering column switch - part # 996.613.213.10 lists for about $175.

 

I sent you a PM.

 

I PM'd you.

Thanks, that did the trick.  It's lined back up even and as straight as before but rides better with the new strut.  

I was always taught to change struts and/or springs in pairs.  When you change only one side, even if the part is the exact same part number, the old spring that you didn't replace has been through several heating and cooling cycles from driving.  It has settled  some from vehicle weight and will sit lower.  You said that you changed it as a complete assembly.  There is a compensation plate between the top of the spring and the upper mount assembly.  Over time, this rubber/neoprene plate will compress and the spring will compress into the part.  Thus the strut /spring assembly will sit lower than the new strut/spring assembly and you can get a vehicle with a high corner.  This can create unpredictable (and potentially dangerous) handling.  You don't state how many miles were on the old struts put the older they are, the greater the potential ride height difference from the new assembly.

I know, I know... So was I but the wife isn't working right now, the holidays are here so money is tight and I had a bunch of things come up at once... brakes, strut, oil change, MAF sensor..... So I'm repairing as I can.

 

I replaced my passenger rear trut yesterday as a complete spring/strut assembly.  Everything went well and I didn't have any issues, that I noticed.  I went down the road and noticed that my steering wheel no longer sat straight but I didn't have a pull either way either.  I stopped and looked and noticed that the corner of the car opposite of the replaced strut was sitting lower.  I figure there may be some settling of the new assembly needed but after checking everything for tightness and driving 150 miles, I saw no difference.  Anyone ever see this before?

 

I will assume that you did not tighten the fasteners on the control arms until the suspension was fully loaded.  Normally, I would suggest only changing out struts in pairs as the new units may have a differences in spring rates, which will result in exactly what you are seeing.  Leaving the car this way for a long period can also lead to uneven tire wear.

 

I'm back.  I went back to the car to fix this error and I'm having a brain fart.  I'm now not sure of which retaining bolts you're talking about.  I removed the strut by removing the caliper, axle at the transmission only and both eccentrics to allow the assembly to swing down and forward to have the clearance to remove the strut assembly.  I marked the positions on the eccentrics before disassembly and placed them back perfectly afterwards.

 

I replaced my passenger rear trut yesterday as a complete spring/strut assembly.  Everything went well and I didn't have any issues, that I noticed.  I went down the road and noticed that my steering wheel no longer sat straight but I didn't have a pull either way either.  I stopped and looked and noticed that the corner of the car opposite of the replaced strut was sitting lower.  I figure there may be some settling of the new assembly needed but after checking everything for tightness and driving 150 miles, I saw no difference.  Anyone ever see this before?

 

I will assume that you did not tighten the fasteners on the control arms until the suspension was fully loaded.  Normally, I would suggest only changing out struts in pairs as the new units may have a differences in spring rates, which will result in exactly what you are seeing.  Leaving the car this way for a long period can also lead to uneven tire wear.

 

That's what I effed up (forgot!).  Loading the suspension.  Easy fix though!  Thank you!

I replaced my passenger rear trut yesterday as a complete spring/strut assembly.  Everything went well and I didn't have any issues, that I noticed.  I went down the road and noticed that my steering wheel no longer sat straight but I didn't have a pull either way either.  I stopped and looked and noticed that the corner of the car opposite of the replaced strut was sitting lower.  I figure there may be some settling of the new assembly needed but after checking everything for tightness and driving 150 miles, I saw no difference.  Anyone ever see this before?

Sorry about that, I thought I had a signature!  I need to fix that.  It's a 2001 S, 6-speed.

It was my first time really looking around the engine bay and underneath with the wheels off and so on wince buying this from my dad.  Just figured I'd share.  I seem to have a leak I need to track down.

Hey all,

I have a 2001 Boxster S without all the bells and whistles.  My column is jest equipped with the turn signal/high beam lever and the windshield wiper lever.

My signals work fine but I have difficulty getting my bright lights to switch on or stay on.  I can occasionally get lucky and they will stay.  If I push the lever back to brights position, they come one but once it clicks into place, the lights go back to low beams.  Is this something I can fix by removing and cleaning the contacts in the assembly or do I need to replace the the whole thing?  Thanks in advance guys and gals!

Tristan