Nixer

If anyone is interested in what is happening with my car issue, please check here. I am keeping this one updated.

http://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/936068-cayenne-s-958-no-start-no-jump-start-power.html

Power Distribution Circuit Diagrams

Thank you!!

Is there anyone in Dallas Fort Worth area that has a durametric or PIWIS 2 tester? 

Hope these diagrams help, but as Wizard suggested, I would be double checking all connections (particularly grounds and grounding points). I have had this same problem (click...but no start) recently on two separate vehicles--each had a bad ground that turned out to be the culprit. These problems are a pain to troubleshoot because in my cases they were "hiding in plain sight":

Case 1: Battery post clamp seems to be tightened properly, but closer inspection reveals a cracked post clamp and insecure connection.

Case 2: A loose connection between 2 grounding cables attached at a plastic junction block caused arcing/heating which caused melting plastic to form an insulator between the two connections.

Both cases allowed enough current to run most electrical things except the very high current required by the starter.

Thanks guys. I really think it's the power distributor connections. When I replaced it, I must have missed some connections or something is loose. The car gets no power when external power is connected at the jump terminals...so there is a disconnect between the engine power bay and the distributor... just can't figure it out yet. Could it be the relay in the distributor? The 40Amps fuse on the top of the distributor looks good but when I unplug it, nothing happens.. what is that fuse for?

Tested all the 3 relays in the engine compartment and they all good. Something to do with the distributor then...

2012 Cayenne S.

Car just won't start with the battery fully charged. When I try to start I hear a single click.. nothing else. I checked the battery and it shows 13.89v. All the lights inside including the dash, blinkers, tail light, headlights work just fine... but the engine is not getting any power I think...

I tried to jump start the car, but the car is getting no power whatsoever when I connect an external battery via the jump start terminals. Not even a single light... it's completely dead.

I think there is a disconnect between the main power distributor and the fuse box in the engine compartment. Could it be the relay 433 in the engine bay fuse box? If the relay goes bad, would it completely cut off the power to the engine? 

Anyone has the wiring diagram? I'd greatly appreciate any help on this. Thanks!

 

 

 

 

I need to find a way to measure the ATF temperature so I can top off ATF to the correct level.

 

 

Non contact pyrometer or a kitchen temp probe are the DIY favorites.

 

Thanks! I need to get one of those..

 

It was really easy to get the overflow pipe out off the pan. When I took it out, 2 more quarts of fluid came out... 

Hi Nixer I'm about to do my ATF change. Can you tell me, do you think I could pass a 5mm plastic tube up through the green plastic overflow pipe pictured in your last post in order to carry out the refill procedure? Also can you confirm that you collected about 10 quarts out through the drain plug after taking out the overflow pipe? thanks bill

 

I used VAS6262/2 tool and that made it very easy. The overflow tube is really thin and it will probably take longer to fill by inserting a plastic tube through it... so yes it can be done.

I collected only about 6 liters when I drained ATF...most of it came out when I removed the drain plug and about a liter when I removed the overflow tube.

When I did cold fill, I was able to fill only 3 liters..I started the car briefly and shut it off.. I was able to fill 2 more liters after that. 

I need to find a way to measure the ATF temperature so I can top off ATF to the correct level.

Most BMW transmissions, which use a similar design - you can only change about half the fluid at a time - since a lot of it is in the torque converter and most won't come out unless you disassemble and drain the transmission completely. I have heard numbers of 7-8 liters of fluid needed to do a change, so that pretty much agrees with the amount you've had come out. When the transmission is running - the oil pump in it keeps a lot of the fluid in the transmission fluid passages, solenoids, torque-converter. Once stopped it drains back down into the pan, which is what you experienced when you opened the drain plug without the engine running.

 

And if the fill plug really isn't accessible - then injecting the fluid into the transmission while the engine is running (then doing the gear-shift dance) through the overflow pipe seems the way to go. I suspect I'd be looking at modifying a cheap pressure garden sprayer to use..

Yes, that makes better sense. I am planning to modify the garden sprayer to use for this as well.

Here is a thread in tdiclub.com... just what I was looking for.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=169356

It was really easy to get the overflow pipe out off the pan. When I took it out, 2 more quarts of fluid came out... 

Found some references to the tools:

 

https://vw.snapon.com/specialtoolsdetail.aspx?itemid=18860006 - seemed to be the best price. This is 1389..  $117

 

https://vw.snapon.com/specialtoolsdetail.aspx?itemid=34720006 - best price again. This is 1390. $17.

 

You can create a personal account on this SnapOn website. I did to get the assembly/alignment pins for the Turbo brakes (a special tool)

 

Or you could watch:

 

The video shows what appears to be filling it via the drain hole/overflow tube.

Thanks for the links and video. It is for 955 model which has 2 plugs.. one is drain and the other one is fill plug..

The overflow tube in my car seems to be fine... it's not broken..however when I remove the inspection plug, it drained the fluid completely... I'd say about 8 quarts of it... I am gonna use an allen wrench to remove the overflow tube to see if there is any damage in it..

Can't find the fill plug.. anyone?