lewisweller

Thomas if 14 or 15 is leaking I would expect the maf reading from the drivers side bank 2 to be wrong but testing this won't be straight forward. Assuming the check valve 13 is working well (I think you replaced it not long ago) then under boost you won't have any pressure loss but you could have extra air being sucked into the driver side turbo which hasn't been metered by the maf sensor and this could cause overboost in theory. Normally over boost is the wastegates sticking or leaking and they simply don't released the boost inside the turbo at the right time to stop overboost. This small amount of sucked air from 14 or 15 pipes before the turbo isn't going to make a huge difference to the car under acceleration. I also bet the idle would be unchanged in this circumstance or the Ecu would adjust and you couldn't tell either way, maf sensor readings aren't used for idle really. The only other thing that would pop that code is a faulty MAP sensor or the wiring to it! You had some wiring go bad already for the purge valve nearby. Is it possible this is the issue?

The car market here is very bad, people like newer cars and not so much older models. Also the cost of parts and repairs is a factor for the second hand market. The latest offer is 30,000dhs.

Use the 710P it's the revised part and works well.

So after a year this camera did stick again and wouldn't move out and in. Pulled of the trim panel, very easy just insert flat blade screw driver in the side hole and push the clip inwards and pull cover out gently. Repeat for other side and then gently pry out the Cover. Unplugged connectors for power and video signal. Unbolted the camera, removed back cover which broke cos it's brittle. Exposed the motor gear shaft and two work drive gears which connect to the barrels which drive the camera in and out. Pretty simple. The cog on the motor was jammed a bit and just some wiggling freed it up. Sprayed and cleaned all gears with solvent spray and then applied a small amount of Vaseline (I had nothing else to hand). Recommend a silicon based grease would be better. You really don't need hardly any to make it run just fine. All back together piece of cake. Won't let me add anymore pictures error 200????!!! The car is advertised, had an offer of 28,000dhs but holding out for more like 38,000 dhs Lol the car is filthy, that's a job for later on.

All sorted then Mike welldone. Come to think about it the idle Dip was better on the short drive I had yesterday after replacing oring on Y pipe. Maybe it helped or maybe my imagination. Didn't Fix the hesitation! I've clean the throttle body twice and I opened the butterfly by hand carefully to clean. And if you remember is even stripped it down and fully cleaned it inside the electric dc motor and potentiometers. Who ever said the throttle won't match the engine or Ecu after is a scare monger. You don't even need to do the alignment with the software! Do the key on and throttle to the floor for 60 seconds and then key off, then key on and leave for 2 mins will relearn the throttle. Then key off and back on and start the car. Let it idle for 5 mins and go for a normal drive.

Gasket leak Mike. Maybe the loose bolts, maybe a bad surface fit. Best to fit all new and torque correctly. Never need to worry about that part again. New pump face looks normal. Pulley got any cracks or signs of damage around the mating face and bolt holes? Mine exploded when the garage did the head gaskets work and refitted it, probably over tighten it and cracked it. A few people including pelican's DIY say to replace the pulley as a matter of course.

Lower arm and tie rod end replacement done. Ac is so cold it can cope with 44oC on speed 2 amazing! I'm so glad I spent a year suffering in the heat with this POS before finding the issue and fixing it. Now the AC is fixed and on low speed the check tail light and four wheel drive warnings don't even pop up on dash once you have driven it for a few mins and the battery is topped up after the cranking juice used, is replaced. So last job is to fix the rear camera which won't pop out. Oh and clean it again and Polish out the two new marks on the freshly painted door. Mo fo's here are so careless with opening their **** door on your car. Bunch of C**ts. Right that's my rant over for the day.

Changed that Y pipe o-ring with the closest they had ID 88mm 4mm thick NBR as opposed to 87mm which is original. Didn't really make any difference.

Mike have you already started ?

This is a boost pressure regulator or wastegate controller more accurately. Ours is at the front of engine next to the throttle body left side. The one at the back of the engine is for the Divertor valves to release pressure from the turbos when you lift off the throttle and stop them from slowing down also called "turbo stall" or "turbo surging". Thomas did you ever get a compressed air source and simply pressurise the wastegates to 15psi and listen for leaks? I'm sure your wastegates are leaking and giving you overboost.

Well not in sequence with the AC. The AC is always on but the idle I saw it at 500 then I saw it increase. I revved the engine but it didnt go back to 500. If I select Drive or reverse gear it will drop to 500 again. Normally it would only be at 500 rpm regardless of anything else.

The intake Y pipe oring number 9 is probably one of the only orings or seals/ gaskets I never have replaced. Tomorrow I'm going to whip it out and take it to my trusty oring and seal shop to get a new one for a dollar or two. This may sort the idle Dip which never seems to be solvable. Also to note the idle Dip will trigger the "check tail light" fault and also almost in tandem the "four wheel drive faulty" warning. All this is voltage dipping down I know but I've never been able to find why. New alternator 3 new batteries and all cables and items checked and tight. I figure if I can stop the idle Dip and put the battery charger on it to keep it topped up fully I can stop the warnings coming up and sell it. Also I now notice since the AC compressor control valve has been replaced the idle will come up to 750 like its being commanded and then can go back to 500rpm. Is the increase normal? I can't ever remember it increased the idle speed once warm at all.

Turbo Wastegates must be leaking. The boost on mine is peaking around 3500 up to 5500 rpm. The length of a vacuum pipe wouldn't make any real difference.

I know the feelings your having, I was chuffed to get a Porsche and had high hopes of fun and reliable motoring with my family. My son loves it because it's big and high up, calls it the monster truck. Little does he know the reason we hardly have used it is because it's always broke. And I'm broke too. The lucky few that have little to no problems with their cayenne will be true to the brand, some will be in denial that it's not quite what they expected and the rest of us have the reality that we got screwed with substandard. If I listed what I have gone through and spent since March 2016 I and anybody reading would be horrified.

Don't mean to ask a silly question or offend but when the car is locked the handle outside needs to pulled twice to unlock and open. This is normal for kessy cars. Also if your car is set to auto lock when driving above 15km/h or what ever it is set at, when you stop you must pull the inside door handle twice to open the door. I'm not sure if this relates to your issue but thought it was prudent to state the obvious incase it was misunderstood. The kessy module can play up and the result is the handles don't work well on command or don't work at all. Read the thread about this and the fixes possible.

It is a capped off point to connect vacuum tester pump. If you are doing checking for leaks this is where to connect.

It's 40 degrees at 10am. At 1pm air temp reads 52 degrees. The car does very well at holding the coolant temp at 80 degrees. If you want to check the fluid you will have to do it first thing in the morning after being left over night to be cooler than 40 degrees.

Lol move car to middle east, check oil level midday, bang on 40oc. Ha ha ha

Your English was good Thomas, Plastic impellor is good, metal impellor is bad. You and Nerdtalker are saying the same thing, don't use a metal one. Porsche oem is plastic in case anyone was wondering.

Welcome to the porsche cayenne. Always full of surprises .......not all of them good ones. You'll find most people have a soft spot for their Porsche where character, heritage and performance out weighs the breakdowns, major failures and cost. I'm at the end of my rope and can't wait to sell. Bring on the backlash of the purists! Haha

It was the centre bearing support for sure, "roaring noise in the middle of the car" was accurately described. That flex disc isn't going to show itself just yet. I would prep for a while shaft and new flex disc replacement in about 10,000 miles. Happy motoring

Here in uae they have a Mickey mouse car test which takes about 5 mins, unfortunately they will notice the boot of the ball joints on both items are split and will flag this as a fail. If the car was a cut and shut, crabbing down the road or total rotten through the chassis but with a nice bondo covering and rattle can spray attack, it would pass just fine lol. Priced up the lower arm, tie rod end and 4 new bolts 650dhs about 150 dollars. So looks like I'm spending again. ........

Well the leaking steering rack is Fixed today. Top tip if you got the car up off the wheels don't steer the wheels, for some stupid reason the rack just pissed out the fluid both ends of the rack. First car I ever worked on that you can't move the steering manually at all if the engine is not running. All the fluid had leaked out and I was dreading another big Fix like rack removal and new seals or second hand replacement. Bought new seal for the passenger end which I Fixed before, whipped that out and found nothing wrong with it but fixed new one anyway. Reassembled and filled with 1 litres Pensotin CH11s. Leaving car on lift started engine and did lock to lock to bleed out air. Checked both ends and no leaks. Strange event! Some more bad news, the garage who did the convertor seal lost and then apparently found again my locking Wheel nut adaptor in fact put one that wasnt for my Wheel nut. So now I can't take the wheels off. And the passenger side bottom ball joint and tie rod end ball joint are both totally mangled. They weren't in bad shape prior to convertor seal! A** holes. Tie rod end is cheap enough but to buy the lower arm is expensive. And need to buy for normal Wheel bolts and throw away the locking ones as I don't have a adaptor now. Oh and just to put the nail in the coffin the front passenger strut air bag is leaking, it is actually visably chafed. After parking for just 5 mins its already dropped. Camera not popping out still. A long list and all have to be sorted before sale if I'm to get a decent price. On the bright side AC is lovely and cool.

I would have a look at the flex disc for cracks or chunks missing. Also your home made centre bearing support, maybe something moved. I found if the ride height isn't right there can feel like vibrations resonance through the car. But assuming it's not dragging around out of whack I wouldn't think this is your issue. Changing Wheels will narrow the list down. Front clunk's can be a antiroll bar bushes, top or bottom arms, even brake caliper/pad movements. Good luck.

Its not too bad actually compared to some jobs. Don't forget the new pulley!