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Everything posted by lewisweller

  1. Well done sir! Yet another electrical gremlin for the cayenne and another problem fixed by coil pack replacement although who would have guessed that without prior knowledge or experience it can cause alternator charging issues?? Do enjoy.
  2. I don't know if that module will require some coding to your car? Assuming you don't have durametric or vagcom? Often if you buy a module from exactly the same model spec options etc etc must be Exactly!! it wont need coding. I also wonder if this will fix it, have you considered high resistance in some wiring which increases as it heats up? Question is what wiring? Minefield .......
  3. Kessy module is under the dash just up above the accelerator pedal. I think the module next to the rear comfort control module is the level control module?
  4. I would have thought it wouldn't crank if the immobilizer was the issue? Not quite sure. I'm still not sold on it not being a fuel issue perhaps. Really only testing and ruling out things will get you closer to the cause without fault codes to help guide you.
  5. Fuel pressure is a possibility. There is a fuel pressure regulator which is supposed to hold 3 bar after ten minutes when engine is stopped IIRC, if that fails you go to crank and don't have any fuel pressure available, hence long crank to build pressure then it starts. I remember also the fuel filter has a non return valve in it which can fail. Also fuel pumps are notorious for being a pain, weak pumps, leaky pipes, clogged suction screens etc etc. I've been inside my tank a few times and replaced all these items on my 06 ctt when I had it. Testing fuel pressure requires a fuel pressure
  6. Ran great (past tense) or stills runs great (when it starts)? A list of possibilities but yes a good running low mileage engine shouldn't have these problems. Got any fault codes? The symptoms are too vague to narrow down a cause yet.
  7. Erm im hedging a bet the battery(s) are ok if cranking is faster than normal. Low compression can cause faster cranking and no start or hard starting symptoms. Would suggest doing compression test first.
  8. Generally tightening (torque evenly) the bolts can either reduce or stop leaks or make it worse, bit of a gamble. You could try a thicker oil depending on your climate? Most climates don't need a 0w oil. 15w40 can work in warmer climates, even a 10w40 is fine down to -10 or lower. These stop leak products are not advisable IMHO. Unless the car isn't a "keeper". You may be putting off the inevitable mate, need to be dropped and resealed properly?
  9. Well well well. Item number 6. It's actually next to the kessy unit under the dash (drivers side) (lhd) probably right of the accelerator peddle and up about 40cm.
  10. Thomas, the pump literally is used to make sure the hot coolant flows back and circulates properly to the heater matrix(s)to keep passengers warm, it also send it back to the rear heater matrix (if fitted). Some cayenne have a.c. evaporator and heater matrix in the boot as well as in the lower dash. "Four zone climate control" option I believe it was called. The "rest" button just runs this pump when the engine is off and the passengers are asking for warm air still from the interior fan hence hot coolant is required to circulate by electric pump. Hello from the UK my friend.
  11. I've looked and can't locate yet where that module is! I've got a hunch it's under the seat next to battery?? I don't have a cayenne any longer so I can't check myself. Definitely worth a cheap used eBay punt if you can locate where it is. PLEASE BE AWARE ... the module is different depending on MY and options fitted. Check first. If you find your module take it apart and check first for something obvious, I would, but your risk. A clue is that it sits in a bracket part 15 which looks to be mounted horizontally which means it won't be hanging around in the dash I very much doubt, i
  12. Control unit issue perhaps? It seems this module is responsible for charging and permissions to run certain things like a.c. fan, turning off things to save power if required etc. And must also be the control for the "exciter" cable. Diagnostic required to test this module operationally. I remember reading at full throttle it also cuts off the alternator to deliver full power acceleration! Control Unit, Elec S - Genuine Porsche G95561802701 Known as: control unit vehicle electrical system
  13. Check the crankshaft sensor. Sensor End should be clean and not damaged. Check the resistance also. Other correlation issues turned out to be timing chain issues, stretching, jumping a tooth, tensioners snapped/collapsed etc etc. More diagnostics required........ If the fuel was the root cause, dirt in tank, filter clogged now ?? How that relates to p0016 idk ??
  14. If air is in the system you can tell cos in the morning after its cooled completely it will be low level in expansion tank and need topping up. This may take a few days of topping off to get full in my experience. But why? Had work done recently? Otherwise the turbo coolant T's at back of engine are a possible leak point and the dreaded pipes under the manifold or the water pump itself or alternator, the list goes on..... I'll list below the overheating possible causes I know of: 1. Head gasket failure I had, would over heat at idle due to low relative coolant flow and
  15. IIRC the durametric cant do it, maybe a revision is out by now I don't know. I used vagcom to do mine as the module is basically from the vw Touareq. It will depend on the year, up to 2006 will work. After that I'm not sure it works with vagcom.
  16. Nice find and kudos for not taking a stiff one from the stealership. Who knows what new parts or control modules you might have ended up with lol.
  17. Yeah the two centre arb bushes and end links were worn on mine, you gotta remove a plastic cover piece and the under tray to see the Bushes IIRC.
  18. I had a leaking rack end seal and bought one from a hydraulic seal shop for a few quid, I did post all the details pictures on here back in 2017. I'll try and find it. Where is you leak? Edit found it.
  19. I would be looking at bottom ball joints for play or control arm bushes or arb links. Remember when loaded they might seem ok, if you disconnect arb links for example they can then prove to be sloppy and worn. The diff output bearing movement isn't normal but I don't think you would feel that driving along unless they whine like mine did (you said they didn't), but certainly coming to a abrupt stop the diff bearings and CV's are going to get some torque stresses and clunk when worn. I had a clunk on mine and found one bottom ball joint nut wasnt tight following an engine/transmis
  20. Get the disc checked on the car with dti (dial test indicator), if result shows they are warped, remove discs and recheck the disc and the hubs separately. You need to identity where the issue is. If the hubs pass the dti test and the discs fail then this points to two issues, the discs are poor quality and susceptible to warping (bad batch or metal heat treatment process), or the caliper/pad is not functioning correctly, sticking binding, uneven pressure etc. On my ctt the brakes would squeal and I regularly had to strip off pads and clean and apply copper grease and also anti-squ
  21. I did mine drain refill a few times. It always drained about 950ml and refilled about the same. As long as it comes out of the fill plug it's enough. Let it drain any excess from the fill plug. Level car is important.
  22. Could be the pedal switch faulty, try disconnecting the plug and see if the BL go off. Don't remove the BL switch unless you have a new one, they are a one time fit affair apparently. Other issues can be the rear comfort control module faults. Get the battery charged and read the fault codes I guess would be a start also.
  23. Yeah it tickled my (wicked) British humour button, I didn't mean any offence. I often answer my own questions on this forum as despite the vastness of the Web etc amazingly hard to find info on some stuff, but it's good for someone else in future to have the answer too. What I do detest is the thread which lasts 8 pages and result in ......... No conclusion and goes dead arrggghhhhhh how annoying.
  24. That's funny answering your own post asking why no one thought about the filter and neither had you at that point. Hehe. I jest, not attacking. ...... It's probably likely you got oil leak ( common valve cover gaskets leak) which is getting burnt off and drawn through the AC. A new filter is freshly carbon impregnated so it absorbs the smell to an extent. Like airplane seats and farts.
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