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lewisweller

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Posts posted by lewisweller

  1. 4 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

    ALTERNATOR QUESTION. Sorry has nothing to do with the title of this thread but I didn’t want to open new one.

     

    i had my alternator replaced 2 years ago. Overhauled part. Is working flawless but makes noises from the very first day.  The mechanic maybe should hear it before replacement but he didn’t. Now he is in and because it’s a pita to replace we didn’t change. Just the noise is a bit annoying. 

    Is there a chance to replace the bearing without taking the alternator out of the car? 

    Thank you

    Short answer is no. 

  2. 1 hour ago, Zakowsky said:

    You're right Thomas - but I just went and bought the new part, and when I got home and looked at it, it says Bosch on it but it is Made in China! Plus it has the white paint on it like a remanufactured part. If Porsche themselves are selling non-OEM parts what are you supposed to do any more. I can still return it, and maybe order it from Germany or something?

    Mechanical air pump? where's that at mike?

     

    Purge valve faulty hey! Wink.

    I think the 20 dollar one would work just fine. Everything is made in China, the world better wake up, they already took over this mother f**ker. Lol 

  3. 6 hours ago, neoplanet said:

    Hi.  The title is probably self explanatory.  If I get a used diff, is it just plain risky, or can it be understood whether the thing is one of the good ones or not before I replace my noisy one with it?

     

    Much thanks for any insight.

    My front differential made a quiet but noticeable whine noise. I changed the fluid twice in a year and didn't find anything metallic or abnormal, I bet its still is fine now for the new owner and he can't even hear it, must be deaf! So if yours is not totally buggered why not just change the fluid for Redline heavy duty shock resistant 75w90 diff oil and run it until something happens.

     

    For the second hand option :

    Well if you could hear it in operation in the donor car before removing that's ideal but unlikely. 

    You could try a bench test, rig up something to drive it. 

    Or strip it down and check it before you go to the hassle of removing your old one. 

    From my understanding the diff usually becomes noisy from the bearing(s). Chipped tooth also possible visual inspection will identify that. 

    Erm you could get the Used one and just buy the new bearings etc and refurb it so you know it's gonna be perfect when you install it. Bearings aren't expensive and ive seen somewhere a how to for the rebuild. 

     

    Good luck. 

  4. 2 hours ago, andrewjt19 said:

    Hello, 
    Does anyone know how to find the radio security code other than removing the actual multimedia console? I found this website here but not sure if it really works. My concern is when I change the battery (which is dying) how to gain access to the multimedia center again should it require a security code. I am the third owner and have found nothing written in any of the vehicle documents. Any advice would be appreciated.

    I've had the battery disconnected many times and didn't need any code for the radio 2006 ctt. 

    I wouldn't stress about it!

    • Like 1
  5. 6 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

    It's hard to see, but the scale is on the bottom left, 10.0V per major division - CH1 / 5.2V is just the trigger voltage for the scope (the small arrow). I still don't like digital oscilloscopes…

     

    Interesting link - I wondered about this about the N75 as well, thanks.

     

     

    Hah! True enough. So I did clean it and made sure everything was tight and lines were in their proper place with no stress on them, and the errors have gone away for several hours of driving now. Even the Readiness is back to normal. There is still a much fainter (but still present) smell of oil every now and then, so I'm thinking I just improved things enough not to trigger a code, but there is still some leak problem. So I might go ahead and get the valve and see if that helps things. The only other candidates I have left is the AOS diaphragm not functioning correctly, but I have already broke two of the tabs on the cover and I've tried but can't get it off without stressing the remaining tabs so much I am sure they are going to break. A heat gun would help, but I don't want to melt the membrane and then have to wait for another one from Russia.

     

    But if you miss working endlessly on your Cayenne, I also have to take the passenger door apart again because the replacement window cables ate themselves and now it needs to be fixed again. And I just realized that my drivers door open/closed micro switch sensor needs fixing. I never cared that the light didn't come on when I opened the door, but now I am realizing that the key weirdness's I've always had could be due to it thinking the driver's door hasn't been opened. Plus there is the fuel pump that doesn't turn on when I open it and slow starting…its all so connected.

     

    Speaking of which did your VAGCOM ever access the door electrics controller? I can't make a CAN connection to it for some reason. Was that a controller you had access to?

     

    Can't remember ever going into the door Electrica module. 

  6. 19 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

    Thanks Thomas - I checked the wires and they are fine. Maybe it’s the cold and hostile wasteland of Canada, but the wiring on this vehicle is in really mint shape. Anyway to be certain of all this I patched in the oscilloscope into the circuit and monitored while running:

     

    CTT-50.thumb.jpg.4c60e4edf7022f8561c6bf9c937f53fd.jpg

     

    So a good 13.7 volts are getting to it; when I hook it up to a current source it clicks and opens and closes smoothly and without fail, and when I accidentally disconnected it while the engine was running I got a P0444 - EVAP Purge Control Valve (N80): Circuit Open error, which I have never seen before.

     

    So the only chance that it is the N80 valve is if at 16 Hz it somehow fails. Anyone who has monitored solenoids like this before, is that big negative spike normal? I am figuring it is just an artifact of the probe, or does it indicate that the N80 is drawing too much current when closing? I can't hear the valve when the engine is running, but its right next to all the lifter noise.

     

    Btw I checked my fix of the one-way valve 4 times - took the Y-pipe off and disconnected the T hose, so not disturbing the one-way valve, and it was working perfectly each time.

     

    So if everything is OK up front, I guess I have to go look at the EVAP canister itself? Is it in the rear wheel tub or something? ****.

     

    Where are you reading 13.7v from? I see 5.2v stated as ch1. 

     

    Looks normal for PWM. 

    https://www.tlxtech.com/understanding-solenoids/theory-operation/pwm-solenoid-theory

    The voltage is on/off, hence 0v up to ??v is seen. 

    So this shows your valve is open about 70%. 

     

    I don't think this proves the valve is mechanically working correctly. But electrically it is looking normal.

    Bit of carb cleaner squirted in the open end whilst it's operating might free up a potential gummy blockage?   Or from the back side pipe which means some removal required. 

     

    Or spend 100 bucks on a new purge valve to find out if you wasted 100 bucks. 

     

    Oh you should test the valve when the code is present and whilst it's on test reset the code and see what happens ! Init. 

  7. 2 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

    Thanks Lewis; it seems the vacuum pump is working fine, pumping the brakes caused it to turn on as described...I also tested the white one-way valve at the back and it seems to work. And it makes sense that #4 is open to the manifold. But now seems I've screwed something up blowing air maybe through the system, as the error code instantly returns now, even though the valve at the front is working fine. When I clear the code the engine changes its sound quite a bit, not in speed but it sounds like the flow of air changes. And once the vac pump came on when I cleared the code, so it seems I have even more to figure out now.

     

    Edit: took the morning to test the n80 purge valve and it works perfect. Other one listed is a N115 valve, but I don't think the Cayenne even has one. Tonight I guess I'll look for the EVAP canister itself.

    Check the wiring to the purge valve. Maybe getting crispy. 

    You confirmed the purge valves works but it's very likely the valve can work but not properly or intermittently. 

    Also that check valve you repaired, is it possible it is getting stuck open or closed ? 

    I would be seriously looking at the purge valve as when you clear the code only something electrical can work again on command ie the purge valve itself. 

     

  8. 7 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

    So do you still get the oil smell Thomas? Because the more I look into this the more I think it is an EVAP system problem not a leak. I fixed the check valve - if anyone is interested they do come apart if you pry at them:

     

    CTT-48.thumb.jpg.90e689f4e20c1a283845d74970484e62.jpg

     

    You can see the center of the diaphragm was ripped out - some glue and a small piece of latex glove backing and it sorks like new again. But the problem isn't fully solved. Drove all day and didn't get any error codes, and didn't smell oil. But I went over a hard bump, smelt the oil and then pulled over and check for codes and sure enough the P0441 came back. So I'm thinking the oil smell must be some venting of the crankcase.

     

    The check valve seems like it was part of it, but there is still something else going on. Lewis, do you remember the air flow through hose #4 on your diagram, the one from the bottom of the Y pipe to the back? It splits into one line that goes to the air pump, and the other into an elbow into the manifold, and another that goes off to the drivers side somewhere. When I suck/blow into it there is some air flow in both directions - I get the feeling there should be a check valve on this line because it goes right into the intake, and you would be always bleeding off boost pressure, unless there was positive pressure in it all the time.

     

    CTT-49.thumb.jpg.0aead11eaebfd12b5b87aa110bc0fb02.jpg

     

    You have to blow pretty hard into it to get air to flow, but it does.

     

     

    Yes pipe 4 is the venturi pipe, it creates vacuum for the brake booster by allowing manifold pressure to bleed off and back around to the connector located in the Y pipe in front of the throttle. This air flow even though it's positive pressure cleverly creates a vacuum in the other tube which Tees into another pipe linked to the vac pump and around to the booster.

    As the air in the system is not lost this doesn't affect the MAF measurements. 

    The vacuum pump is therefore afforded a rest.

     

    When your at idle and pump the brake pedal repeatedly you can hear the vac pump kick in as the venturi pipe isn't able to create enough vacuum at idle if your pumping the pedal. This is how to test the vac pump works. And also the engine off, brake pedal pumped until hard and held down, then engine on, pedal should drop as vac in booster increases. 

     

    So by blowing or sucking pipe 4 I think it is correct it is open into the manifold. Screenshot_20171115-184250.thumb.png.993b67d888b3aeb6683329ad73ae59e9.png

     

    Screenshot_20171115-181639.png

  9. 31 minutes ago, Zakowsky said:

     

    Checking the two valve for flow by sucking on them, the one on the right was perfect, the other even if I can get it to close wasn't fully sealed. Yeah right, $70 for a $3 check valve - so I soaked it WD40 o/n, then hammered on it until I got it working reasonably well. Just started it up and no error code in about 10 minutes of running, whereas before it would take about 30 seconds, so we'll see. One thing to note, my P044 code indicates a flow problem, and so it would make sense that it is a check valve rather than the N80 itself. But time will tell.

    Yeah flow through that valve 25 or more like lack of it, seems to point to the code accurately. 

  10. 4 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

    Interesting that yours does it too Thomas. Once a day mine would trigger the workshop warning, too much to let slide. I thought of all these codes and a low battery, but going ahead and recalibrating the suspension seems to have stopped the suspension one for a day anyway. Btw coding the suspension was a nail biter, but it turned out fine. I didn't think you had to hit save after doing each wheel, and it wouldn't let me confirm the changes on channel 5, it just denied access to the channel. Then when I exited it said calibration was incomplete and disabled the air suspension, like permanently! Freaked out for a while but by following the instructions exactly, channel 5 appeared, confirmed, and now the vehicle is closer to level and no errors (yet).

     

    But the EVAP error is getting much worse, CEL sometimes on and the error quickly reappears after clearing. Quick question - so the electronic valve itself seems OK, but one of the check valves is strange. We all know these lines well, but in the picture, there are the two one way valves that goes into the T (red and green arrows), that then goes into the valve (blue line). The green one, the one that then goes up and into the AOS line, it works as a one way valve if pointed down, but if you lay it flat or tip the T end upward, it won't close. This is not normal, correct? I'm just wondering if my N80 valve is fine and it is this check valve that is causing the error.

     

    CTT-47.thumb.jpg.2054ab7d50a73fbf6fefc377ddc9bb5a.jpg

    Another thing I was thinking Thomas is the oil smell we are getting occasionally, maybe it is not dripping oil (which I really can't see on mine), but if the EVAP system is malfunctioning, maybe crankcase vent fumes are occasionally being barfed out somewhere because of a pressure build up due to a malfunction.

     

    Btw - is there a part number for these check valves? On the fiche it looks like it is part of the breather hose, 94811014800, but when you look at the part online it doesn't appear to have the valve, just the hose. Thanks.

     

    Part numbers attached picture is items 14 and 25 for the valve you have to buy the whole pipe section. Rolls eyes. 

     

    These one way valves ( just noticed they have arrows on them!) are normally open or flap around sort of open and require boost pressure from the manifold side to close properly or vaccum to open properly. Get your head round that!  

    I think during idle vacuum 25 is sucked open and draw through vented tank fumes via the purge valve if it's open. Then when you're on acceleration the boost pressure closes 25 and 14 is actually sucked open via the turbo intake pipe where it's connects to. 

     

    So the simple test is to suck hard on the disconnected open end of the pipe(s) as per your picture and they should be closed. 

    Screenshot_20171113-140552.png

    Screenshot_20171113-140545.png

  11. 2 hours ago, DannyHoffman said:

    Filled up today, still running on the left pump only and drove about 6 miles, it ran perfectly.

     

    Then I tested the pressure and the gauge needle, whilst at 4 bar,  was jumping around a bit constantly. I switched to the right pump and the needle was rock solid. I then swapped the relays and the problem stayed with the left pump.

     

    Looking more and more like the left pump.

     

     

    I'm on the edge of my seat.........

  12. On 08/11/2017 at 12:59 AM, Zakowsky said:

    Some more info. Checking for codes I found Bank 2: Camshaft A (Intake) P0021 - 008. Possible causes include "Sealing strips on inlet camshaft adjuster faulty". So the camshaft adjusters are under those black caps on the front of the valve covers (like your photo above Thomas), and I assume that is what it refers to.  But I'm not sure what they mean by sealing strips…it would be nice to think it is the o-rings that seal the electrical connectors where they come through the valve covers, but I'm thinking it's probably not that simple. And even if the oil leak was through the adjuster connector (and there is a bit of a leak there because it pools with oil), I'd probably have to take the valve covers off (and bend the cam finger tab in the process!). Cleared the code and will see if it comes back.

    Mike I replaced these and you don't need to remove the valve cover or sensor or anything. 

    Buy the seal part number 4 from Porsche not too expensive! Don't say that often do we! 

    Then remove plastic cover and disconnect electrical connector. 

    Use a wide strong flat blade screw drivers to deform the old seal enough to pull it up and out.  Be careful not to crack or scratch the chappy plastic valve cover recess. Wipe Clean all surfaces. 

    I added a smear of red high temp gasket sealer to my new seal outer edge to be sure it would seal nicely and slid it in and home with a socket sat on top and a gentle tap. 

    Job takes about 10 minutes per side. Piece of p*ss. 

     

    Mine were dribbling and weeping a bit of oil so that's why I did it and I thought it may also be a vacuum leak so double whammy Fix. 

    Screenshot_20171108-092345.png

  13. 16 minutes ago, Zakowsky said:

    Did you ever figure out where your oil smell was coming from Thomas? I can't, and it is getting worse. Every time I go over a sharp bump like a curb into a driveway the vents blow a really strong smell of burning oil - nobody wants to drive in the car anymore! I thought it might be the oil that collects in the cam adjuster caps that splashes out, wasn't that; can't see any stains on the headers, and even though the valve covers are a bit leaky, it's just damp and has no drips or anything major that could splash. Cleaned one side with engine cleaner and now it just stinks of burning oil and engine cleaner...

     

    Pulled the plugs btw and they looked very good - gap had widened a bit so I just tightened them up, cleaned them and put them back. Cleaned the MAFs and its running smooth again. Stinks, but smooth.

    Have drained you drivers side intercooler ?

  14. 7 hours ago, Stryker said:

     

    The button lights on the steering wheel of my cayenne turbo seem to be playing up, they go from off to dim to lit then off again and so on.

     

    Anyone have any experience of this and how to fix it? Tried the buttons behind the wheel, they turn off then come back on again and continue

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Others had this and turned out to be a battery issue. 

    I would check the battery is OK 12.6v with engine off is ideal and also the a charging system (13.8-14.2v is ideal) is OK first. 

  15. 3 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

     

    @JFP in PA greetings to the specialist. 

     

    What will happen exactly if the valve connected behind the pump is not working? 

    Friday i start to hear a noise which is almost the same like a leak in the exhaust. Found out it’s coming the secondary air pump or the valve.  The pump is still working but sounds different than the passenger side.  Disconnect the black big hose which is routing to the valve I can hear air and feel something like exhaust gases. Valve  smashed?

    Thomas I had the same issue the valve is stuck open and allows hot exhaust to pump back into the pipe and into the air pump. 

    Use a 1/2-3/4" GI plug can't remember the exact size (Pic attached)and jubilee clip to close the pipe and forget about it. 

    Pulsing sound will be gone as well. 

     

    The valve part no 10 is not electronic, its mechanical only, it's spring loaded and the air pump opens the valve against the spring pressure. You can replace the valve but it is extremely difficult to access. 

     

    Screenshot_20171106-074642.png

    Screenshot_20171106-074616.png

    • Upvote 1
  16. 1 hour ago, DannyHoffman said:

    I have always filled with Shell V-Power, but from different garages.

     

    I have a fuel pressure tester on order, but the problem feels intermittent. 

     

    I generally drive the car very gently so would low fuel pressure cause problems at under 2,000 revs with light throttle opening? It feels like either the electrical supply to the pump has been interrupted, or the pump suddenly is sucking up air, or the plugs have stopped sparking.

     

    Would the fuel pump go weak intermittently? 

    You know I struggled with part throttle stutter and hesitation for a year before selling my 06 ctt. And I ran though everything. The only thing I found and didnt fix before selling was the injectors didn't spray clean or properly, which I'm 95% was the real issue, no codes, fuel trims were spot on, never broke down because of that issue anyway. 

    I had new coil, plugs, pumps, regulator, filter, no vacuum leaks, new Divertors, new mafs, new lambda sensors. You get the idea anything that could have been showing 11 yrs of age was replaced. Oh I also had alternator failure which replaced with new and several new batteries under warranty until the 3 rd one was a good one. So that ruled out electrical issues for me and I replaced the fuel pump fuses and relays, which didn't resolve the issue. 

     

    So I guess what I'm saying is test the fuel pressure and flow on both pumps individually and double test them when tank is full too. Being intermittent is a real b * tch to find as you may well test ok many times but one time you catch it slippin. 

    Scanner Dan uses his oscilloscope to monitor the amps the pump pulls and you can see from the wave form each segment of the rotor windings chopping and you can identify if the pump is failing but still seems to work.

    Most garages tend to swap both pumps if they suspect / diagnose a fuel pump issue (at your expense of course). 

    I think your looking at some head scratching ....

  17. 12 hours ago, DannyHoffman said:

    I drove a bit further today, about 15 miles in total since filling up, still running perfectly.

     

    So I pulled fuse 13 and refitted 14, and it still runs perfectly.

     

    Will carry on driving with just the left pump to see what happens

    Are you using the same fuel station every time or random? Could there be water contamination or something worse at a certain garage you use? Contaminants settles to bottom of tank shortly after refilling and gets sucked through and cause the stuttering? 

    You need a fuel pump test. 

  18. 4 minutes ago, weapons777 said:

    I was afraid you were gonna say that lewisweller. Oh...well, I'll keep troubleshooting. Will check the voltages and have a look at the Comfort Control Unit. Thank you very much.
    BTW, read in one of your posts you sold your PIG. Any plans on getting another one?

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
     

    Lol not on your life. 

    Well not unless I get a 911 get 2/3 or carrera 4s or something rapid in later life when I'm bald on top lol but never a older Porsche especially the Cayenne. I sold the Audi also in PX for my old Golf R and then sold that too. Made a nice little profit on the deal. 

    Driving (dad's) company car Nissan Maxima 3.5 v6 cvt, Piece of sh*t but comfortable and no hassles for me. 

    Off to uk next year so looking for an Audi 2.0T FSI and go stage 2 on it for some fun. 

    Once you go fast Audi you never go back. .....

  19. 2 hours ago, weapons777 said:

     

    Hi. Having "Check Front Side Lights" message come up every time I turn on the headlights. Are Side Markers supposed to turn On with the headlights or just with the turn signals? All light bulbs seem to be working fine. I still went ahead and replaced the Side Marker light bulbs by the wheel wells but the message still comes on when switching the headlights on. I'm using regular bulbs no LED's.

    955 Cayenne Turbo 06.

    Thanks in advance.

     

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

     

     

    I had check tail light and never found the problem. Could be rear comfort control unit. Could be bad earth, could be low voltage could be bad connection. 

  20. 3 hours ago, DannyHoffman said:

    I found this on line 

     

    With the activation of drivers outer door handle - left pump primes fuel rail.

     

    starting procedure: left and right pumps on

     

    Fuel tank qty >60 L

    right pump on

    full load: left and right pumps on.

     

    Fuel tank qty < 60 L

    left pump on.

    full load: left and right pumps on.

     

    If this is correct the right pump runs when the tank is full, I have pulled fuse 14 so the right pump is always running and at the moment it's running perfectly.

     

    It doesn't make any sense

    This info is incorrect that's why. 

    This is from the publication Porsche Service Technik.

    Regulation of Fuel Quantity.

    As a result of the on-demand regulation of fuel flow capacity, fuel heating in the tank is reduced.

    This is achieved by the DME control module switching on fuel pump 2 only as required, while fuel pump 1 is always activated.

    With the following switching criteria, fuel pump 2 is additionally switched on to increase flow capacity.

    At engine start and then 2 seconds run-on (with a hot start 5 seconds run-on).

    With a calculated fuel consumption of > 50 liters/hour the pump is switched on, and at < 45 liters/hour switched off again.

    With a fill level of < 10 liters in the tank, it is switched on and with > 15 liters it is switched off again.

    Props to Bigbusuki. 

  21. To clear up a few things:

    They are mafs next to each air box. Pins locked or unlocked don't matter. Green pipe isnt going to cause any issues for running. 

    The map sensor is  also temp sensor built in. 

    If your standing in front of the car looking at the engine the left side is bank 1 the right side bank 2. Bank 1 cyclinder start 1234 from the front to back, bank 2 is 4567 front to back.

    In future this may help avoid confusion. 

     

    Interesting about the purge valve disconnected did nothing to change the symptoms. 

     

    I think you need to have fuel pressure and flow tested. I got a feeling your left pump is weak. 

    Until then try this: open the "wet fuse box" pull out the number 14 fuse for the left pump, cycle ignition off and on which forces the dme to run engine on the right pump. see how it runs. (Need to keep above half tank for this mind). 

     

     

    Screenshot_20171025-224051.png

  22. 4 hours ago, DannyHoffman said:

    Trickle charger theory is out the window. It said the battery was fully charged this morning but I am still getting an occasional misfire. No fault codes and I monitored the air intake temperature in real time whilst driving. It was giving expected readings with no glitches when the car misfired. My reader's real time monitoring only shows one air intake sensor.

     

    As an experiment I've pulled the pipe off the purge valve on the tank side to see how it will run on the way home. My thinking being if the purge valve opens it will just suck in fresh air, not neat petrol

    I'm a bit confused by the codes and number of air temp sensors you're seeing. 

    I thought there was a built in "intake air temp" sensor on the MAP sensor and one mounted in front of the radiator (ambient temp). 

     

     

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