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lewisweller

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Posts posted by lewisweller

  1. I've continued to snag and fix pretty much all the issues on my ctt, im left with a stutter at 2k 3k & 4k rpm. Seems to get better the longer I drive ie after 500km was smoother but then I disconnected the battery and was back to a very lumpy low rpm up to 4k then it flies.

    I decided to pull out my dip stick whilist running expecting a dip in rpm and some lumpy idle but nothing happens. The idle is fine and stable at 500rpm, I know a lot of people with vac pvc leaks have bad idle but not me.

    So the question is should the pcv system be affected by sip stick out or do I have a leak I don't know about and the dme is compensating this and hence no rpm change?

    Side note I read a thread about dme problem from factory for hesitation but I'm thinking this not the same complaint as stuttering acceleration.

    FYI new coils, plugs, head Gaskets, battery, divertor valves, air filters, maf's cleaned ££££££$$$$$ you get the picture.

  2. The AC gas volume is 700grams for non 4 zone and 1050grams for 4 zone AC systems on all cayenne 955.

    The gauge won't tell you how much gas you have filled and by looking at you low pressure gas gauge it's go too much in it I think.

    Best to drain the whole gas out and only add the exact amount when recharging.

    An AC machine would such out the old gas check for vacuum pressure hence any leaks and then re-gas the correct set amount you tell it.

    Many places do AC repair except the stealer, I would also recommend you take it to one for peace of mind and safety, the gas is not healthy for humans!

    The garage I took mind too had an issue with the low pressure connection NRV and the muppet told me there wasn't any gas in it, I told him impossible or the AC wouldn't blow any cold but it was working Ok ish. Turns out the muppet in question then proceeded to add 1050 on top of the 700 he mistakenly put in a few day before (he thought it was dual zone not 4 zone). So the low pressure gauge read some incredible figure and the compressor would work. I got his manager out to bollock him and they drained the 1750g out and re-gassed with 1050g and all was perfect.

    I live in dubai, AC is pretty important; the "mechanics" here have some of the gear but no idea. Lol

  3. The AC gas volume is 700grams for non 4 zone and 1050grams for 4 zone AC systems on all cayenne 955.

    The gauge won't tell you how much gas you have filled and by looking at you low pressure gas gauge it's go too much in it I think.

    Best to drain the whole gas out and only add the exact amount when recharging.

    An AC machine would such out the old gas check for vacuum pressure hence any leaks and then re-gas the correct set amount you tell it.

    Many places do AC repair except the stealer, I would also recommend you take it to one for peace of mind and safety, the gas is not healthy for humans!

    The garage I took mind too had an issue with the low pressure connection NRV and the muppet told me there wasn't any gas in it, I told him impossible or the AC wouldn't blow any cold but it was working Ok ish. Turns out the muppet in question then proceeded to add 1050 on top of the 700 he mistakenly put in a few day before (he thought it was dual zone not 4 zone). So the low pressure gauge read some incredible figure and the compressor would work. I got his manager out to bollock him and they drained the 1750g out and re-gassed with 1050g and all was perfect.

    I live in dubai, AC is pretty important; the "mechanics" here have some of the gear but no idea. Lol

  4. I don't have the original tail lights from the 2008 face lift. I did get some warnings directional light and licence plate too when I did a lot of on off engine trips during a night shift at site. I left the engine running the rest of the night after that.

    I'm on holiday now so can't try the suggestions you made until July. But I'm leaning towards revision 4 ccm and coding to solve once and for all.

    On another running related theme, I pulled my dip stick out with engine running and idle did not even bat an eye lid. I was expecting to see a cough and idle dip but absolutely nothing. Could I still have vac leaks despite very stable idle of 500rpm and no fault codes, no noises of sucking etc?

  5. Hi guys,

    My CTT 06 with servotronic rack starting leaking well more like gushing, I felt the steering go weird and knew straight away the fluid was leaking, I nursed it home just before the rack packed up without fluid.

    Long story short the passenger side seal was pissing fluid out, and the depression set in almost immediately that another huge bill was coming my way after just spending $4000 on head Gasket and other maintenance tlc.

    So as not to be defeated I check around for a seal kit locally and no body here in UAE would sell me one, only they want to recondition my rack or Porsche would sell me a new one for a lot of cash.

    I contacted UK companies which didn't have stock and wanted £50 for the kit when available plus shipping another £25.

    So because I'm impatient I decided to pull the seal out and go for a search locally my self.

    It only a oil seal after all despite all the scare mongering about not being a DIY job.

    Found the oil seal and oring at a little shop called Golden Seals in dubai. Bargain I bought two sets for $4.

    Ofcourse the pensotin fluid is $50 for 2litres but still well chuffed I managed to overcome this nightmare cost effectively and without removing the rack at all.

  6. Hi all,

    My kessy was not working for entry/exit or the Dummy key. I replaced the mosfet and resistors in my kessy and works a treat now. I found only one mosfet was damaged but changed both anyway and 3 resistors which obviously was for the blown mosfet. The key is the drain ie the back of the mosfet soldered onto the pcb, this must be a solid solder sandwich or the mosfet won't work well or sometime at all. I did it 3 times to get it good. You can hear a sound like a crack when the solder is going to liquid and the pressure applied to the mosfet pushing it down with a screw driver to make the contact point for the solder to melt.

    I also smeared the solder on the pcb evenly prior to trying to solder the mosfet drain on.

    The kessy is under the drivers side dash panel nearest the center console, so water ingress is doubtful.

    Battery drain could be many electrical circuits, there was a how to I read about connecting amp meter to battery and pulling fuses to determine the Power drain source.

    Note the mosfet I had where different to the other people's that I copied the part order from, so when I opened it up and saw they where different, I had to reorder from mouser the correct ones.

  7. Hi all,

    My kessy was not working for entry/exit or the Dummy key. I replaced the mosfet and resistors in my kessy and works a treat now. I found only one mosfet was damaged but changed both anyway and 3 resistors which obviously was for the blown mosfet. The key is the drain ie the back of the mosfet soldered onto the pcb, this must be a solid solder sandwich or the mosfet won't work well or sometime at all. I did it 3 times to get it good. You can hear a sound like a crack when the solder is going to liquid and the pressure applied to the mosfet pushing it down with a screw driver to make the contact point for the solder to melt.

    I also smeared the solder on the pcb evenly prior to trying to solder the mosfet drain on.

    The kessy is under the drivers side dash panel nearest the center console, so water ingress is doubtful.

    Battery drain could be many electrical circuits, there was a how to I read about connecting amp meter to battery and pulling fuses to determine the Power drain source.

    Note the mosfet I had where different to the other people's that I copied the part order from, so when I opened it up and saw they where different, I had to reorder from mouser the correct ones.

  8. Apparently the mechanism is prone to dirt ingress especially if a grease was used which got dirt in it and makes gummy sticky mess.

    Try some electrical cleaner around the mechanism and see if it runs freely. If that works then apply a little silicon spray grease to keep it smooth.

    If the motor windings are causing the heat you may be out of luck and looking for a second hand spare.

  9. Thanks for the reply, the car is due back from the garage after head Gasket job so looking forward to get these other little problems ironed out. I will post what I find and fix. Just out of interest can you take a picture of how far your camera moves out and what picture you see? I see a lot of bumper and alittle tarmac only. Maybe it supposed to be that way? So the only thing not correct is the flap cover is unclipped from the camera surround.

    Appreciate any pics or info. Thanks

  10. Hi All Loren if you reading pls reply :)

    Still having tail light fault warning message, I have the 2008 led tail/brake lights and despite working when I hit the brake pedal the tail light will turn of after depressing and give the warning.

    Piwis shows short circuit on left tail light, I have stripped and bench test both tail lights and found no issues.

    I need to check the wiring back along the left side under seat and drivers floor but no idea which wires are for what.

    I did pull the carpet drivers side and found some previous fiddling evidence. Any body got any diagrams and any advice please help me out.

  11. I just bought a ctt and had Coolant usage, over heating at idle only, cold heater at idle until revs above 1500rpm and could here water sloshing around the car pipes that run to the back heater.

    First I changed the expansion cap as it's the cheapest item, then replaced the water pump as this can wear out causing low flow. After this work was done I was topping up Coolant thinking air was bleeding but after a few cold system top ups it was clear I had bigger issues.

    Suspected head Gasket was confirmed.

    Now spending a pretty penny on the repair.

    To help you on this one, first I suggest cold filling top ups, the system takes 18-22 litres if you have 4 zone and air can get stuck so vacuum bleed is a good idea, also if can park on a slope front facing up and leave the car overnight you may get any air out of the rear heater pipes etc. You can also remove skid plate (if fitted) under drivers (left side) to reveal two Coolant pipes which can be sqeezed to help bleed the rear heater and pipes, of course with front and rear heaters on and engine running at normal operating temp.

    Assuming all Refitment was down correctly, the thermostat opens, no radiator blockage, next step is to chemical check the coolant for head Gasket failure like I suffered. Good luck

  12. Hi guys back again.

    My 2006 ctt has the 2008 face lift done by Porsche in Qatar for the first owner. The issue is have is lights on no problem but press the brake and the warning comes up "check rear tail light" or sometimes "check rear break ligts".

    Some background info is the 2006 cluster had all incandescent bulbs but this 2008 has a led tail/brake light combo and a side light led. The others are incandescent for reverse, fog and indicator.

    Now here come the brain teaser, Porsche charge the customer for two interior courtesy lights which they installed in series or parallel with the lights cluster which is obviously to trick the computer not to throw codes. But why now after 9 years is it not working?

    I checked the courtesy bulbs (5w wedge type) and replaced, measure the resistance on all resistors on the pc and all looks correct and identical both sides.

    To recap the tail lights do work but only. If you brake it stops working and throws the code. The brake lights will continue to illuminate but when off the tail lights are not then on as it should be.

    Strange and had Piwis and durametric scan to no joy. The fault skips from side to side on the diagnostics.

  13. Hi clarksongli

    Update is head Gasket failure, I'm buying all the parts now from USA and having them shipped over to uae. Quote

    is $6000 parts and labour but I can get that down to 3500 if I buy the parts.

    Will also be doing some other PM tasks like transmission service and mountings including the auxiliary water pump. Should be like new after hopefully.

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