lewisweller

9 hours ago, DannyHoffman said:

Correction, I cleaned the connector for the turbo boost sensor

MAP sensor, it's sitting directly on top of the Y pipe. Sometimes it can get oil contamination, carb cleaner will sort that. Electrically though, brittle wires is also a common thing to see on these aging cars. I doubt this is related to the filling up and subsequent rough running that follows. 

P1880 doesn't seem to be genuine code or could be "transfer case disengagement" what ever that means or something totally different, more likely the reader your using is getting it's wires crossed I think. 

3/4 tank for me is the way to go, this will really point towards the evap canister and vent solenoid system. 

Can someone post the evap self check procedure? I wonder if the magic 5 miles relates to the cycle for leak test the system does periodically to check itself for leaks? I've searched for the info but didn't find. 

I'm thinking the tank is full and evap canister has got raw fuel in it, once the system identifies high enough rpm it opens the purge valve which sucks raw fuel through instead of vapor. You said you blocked off the purge valve and it still ran badly? So this would disprove this theory? 

Or the blocked evap canister and vent system when tank is full creates a vacuum in the tank and is highlighting a struggling left side primary fuel pump weakness. 

All speculation mind. 

4 hours ago, DannyHoffman said:

PIWIS Porsche Integrated Workship Information System

 

I'm thinking of what other possible tests to do incase I have to fill up before the purge valve arrives or I get a chance to fit it

 

I didn't know the 20k PIWIS is available by mail order cable. I jest. 

7 minutes ago, DannyHoffman said:

The volt meter is showing 13.9 or 14 volts whilst driving 

 

My fault code reader doesn't support Porsches but the VW option appears to read all the codes. I have a PIWIS cable on order.

 

I have also ordered a purge valve.

 

If my purge valve is sticking open only when hot, if I simply unplug the cable to it before the cold start before my next fill up will this tell me anything?

PIWIS cable? 

Fit the PV when it comes in, until then not much point scratching your head more. 

3 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

Ironically mine is starting to do the same thing, although I thought it was something in the HVAC system burning out. Electrical/rubber smell really strong at certain temps but not at others. But today I hit the brakes hard and then smelt what could have been oil burning off. Plus my mileage is getting worse to. Weird. I have some minor leaks, like around the cam sensor cap and probably the valve covers. How do these engines hold up to pressure washing? Some are fine (Jeeps!) whereas others short out and die!

I would not pressure wash, coils are prone to flood, valley of banks will flood and corrode everything not to mention running down into the torque convertor seal. Recipe for disaster 

Just use some engine cleaner wd and a cloth. Rinse off with damp cloth and squirrel bottle on mist is the most I would gamble on. 

Although I still think an intermittently faulty PV is the most likely cause the other possible faulty component could be a saturated evap canister. 

To disprove the canister you could run the tank down to 1/4 then fill only to 3/4, this would in theory not saturate again the canister (unless completely clogged which one would expect a code for tank venting problems and difficulty in filling up, nozzle keeps clicking off as air in tank can't vent out quick enough). If the car ran fine after doing this a few times it may point away from the PV. 

100 bucks for the pv, I would have already done that! 

On 17/10/2017 at 12:52 AM, ekstroemtj said:

Smell of.....

 

i experienced already for some time a strange smell inside the cabin when I drive the car hard. 

Its not exhaust, it’s not gasoline. I guess it’s a kind of fume which is flowing through the hose crankcase ventilation system. A mixture of hot air and oil. I believe it could be this kind smell of air which is sucked into the intake to get burned in the engine.i hope i could describe it so somebody could point me to a possible cause. Thank you. 

Burning of oil residue from the intake, turbo intercooler etc where it sits for a while until you drive it a bit harder then it clears out via the engine but you still smell it in the car. Mine did it also but not really that much as I nearly always drove it quite hard. My Golf turbo did the same if my wife drove it for a week slow then I drove it hard at the weekend would stink a bit the first time it saw 6000 rpm and small puff of smoke also. 

For sure the Indy had a thick oil or oil additive in it. This engine is basically junk or rebuild at huge expense. This indy garage just F'd you over. Baseball bat and knee cap Em. 

4 hours ago, DannyHoffman said:

I have tested the new battery under load and after the car has been sitting overnight and it appears to be fine - 12.9v with the engine off and everything else turned off. I am getting 14.2v at idle so the charging system seems to be healthy too.

 

Is there a way to test the purge valve for leaks or is it just a case of replacing it ?

 

Disconnect ( open unclip) the pipe of 3 at the rear of bank 2 side almost directly under the SAI pump where it goes into a flexible hose 33, pipe sits in the injectors area.

Then blow down the rigid pipe which is assembled as part of the purge valve 3. It should be shut when powered off. So normal closed, power signal from dme to open I believe. 

It was the first thing I replaced on mine but I had a code! P0441 or p0444, one of them

11 minutes ago, Brainz006 said:

Post script: I replaced the plugs. Some improvement in smoothness, but minor hot stutter was still present. However, whilst changing the plugs, I identified one coil (all revision 8) to have a crack. One new Beru coil later and the stutter appears to be gone. The car is velvety smooth now, although not noticeably faster. It's quite nice. Also note that I never had any starting or idle issues, which many cite as the most obvious signs of failing coils.

Given how sensitive these engines can be to a single intermittent coil, all without throwing codes, I can't help but wonder if Lewis still had a bad coil or two, despite having replaced his with new ones. I guess we'll never know for sure.

Anyway, fingers crossed it's fixed. Any future issues and the other older coils will similarly be replaced.

Hope this helps someone. Best of luck to all.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 

You will know. 

I changed the coils for newest revision 21 when I bought the car, (the coil in their were cracked and it did misfire under load at higher rpm) and after 11 months I replaced them all again. Changed plugs also for beru oem, and two sets of ngk plugs, regapped them twice with no effect on the stutter. 

Didn't make any difference, so coils and or plugs wasn't the issue I'm almost 99.9% sure. 

My issue was the injectors, they didn't spray clean or in a decent pattern. I tested them with solvent cleaner spray can and a 12v battery to open them.

I never had them properly cleaned before selling it, anyone test driving couldn't tell the stutter was present unless they was a very keen motorist or mechanic. 

Good luck, hope the Fix is permanent. 

32 minutes ago, blazer784 said:

Hi I have a faulty headlamp clasp  on my 2004 Cayenne S where the plastic has broken that retains the headlamp - does anybody know if that part can be replaced please and whilst nothing is simple is ir doable and logical - thanks

Probably will need to replace part 16. Unless you can diy Fix It with something. 

Octane 95/97/99 won't change anything adversely. Higher Octane will actually reduce knock, allow more ignition advance and increase power and torque with less risk of pre-ignition. So higher Octane equals less chance of stuttering.

Evap purge valve possibly could be leaking by? 

Left fuel pump weakness is quiet common!

Try switching to the right side pump (remove fuse for left pump and cycle the ignition and start) when tank is over 1/2 full, fill it up and see if it will stutter. The fact the last two cylinder on each bank was the issue before suggests fuel pressure and or flow is low hence the last two injectors on each bank are the lacking fuel. In theory anyway. 

Also check your fuel pressure regulator is running at 4 bar during idle and revving. Should hold 3bar after 10 mins when engine is switched off. 

6 hours ago, 8202632 said:

Single battery only. Thx

Just test the battery voltage with engine off ignition off. Should be ideally 12.6 volts but acceptable is 12.3, any less is a undercharged or failing battery most likely. 

If the battery is looking ok and you only get 13volts when alternator is charging then that would suggest alternator is underperforming. 

Check the battery terminals are tight and clean also and earth cable to body connection is good and clean of corrosion. 

More investigation required I think. 

1 hour ago, ManMN said:

Spoke too soon.

After a long commute, the CE came back as code P2189 - this is where it all began....  Well, I know now that the booster brake vacuum is somewhat fixed (need to order the OEM tube).  I changed Gas cap, Oil cap and one of the device (solenoid?) shown on 1 of my photos.  I swapped the MAP air sensor (Right/Left).  I bought a vacuum tester - which pipe should I check for the vacuum leaks? or is not the vacuum? O2 sensors? new MAP sensors?   $$$$$ will go out the window!  The car drives fine - idle smooth...

 

P2189 is lean mixture on bank 2. 

Few things spring to mind, 

Intake manifold gasket leaks

Fuel injector blockages,fuel pressure / flow reduced, o2 sensor malfunction, maf sensor coils, plugs, compression etc 

The list is long, you will need to look at your fuel trims and sensors data. 

Also don't forget lean mixture can also mean misfire !! Lambda or o2 sensors only see excess oxygen not unburnt fuel, if you have misfires it can be flagged as lean codes also. Counter intuitive. 

So I would  pull all coils and plugs on bank 2  inspect take pictures and report.

Check all the vacuum pipe again carefully, But a vacuum issue won't cause just bank 2 to show fault. So I think the issues with psm and p2189 are independent of each other. 

37 minutes ago, ManMN said:

There is no CE at this time. I'm using iCarsoft i960 OBDII scanner.  There is a menu called "Diagnostic" (different from the usual Actron reader), there is a submenu called DTCs.  I select to read DTCs codes and P0102 came up.  I select to clear the code.  Restart the engine, no more PSM light.  Drove around the block for  10 minutes - everything feels/looks normal.

 

Tomorrow, Monday, the commute will be 45 minute/30 miles.  I'll give updates.

 

 

You may be good to go then. I thought you had cleared the psm code and it returned. 

Good luck and enjoy. 

3 hours ago, ManMN said:

Lewisweller,

 

Thanks to you, all codes are cleared.  I have driven the car for 15 minutes - no codes.  However, the PSM was on after my procedure of disconnect /reconnect the battery and it remains ON.  The brakes feel fine and of course I was able to stop the car.

 

I'm going to search for PSM troubleshoot... I'll be back.

 

Thank you so much Lewisweller

 

Man N

Psm light on probably means despite fixing the major leak in the vacuum system ( cracked pipe) you still have a small leak, most likely in the cracked pipe Fix.

Do this test, run engine and switch off, pump brake pedal and count the pumps until it goes hard hence the brake booster assistance is gone because the vacuum used up by the pumping.

Then hold the brake pedal down and start the engine, you will feel the pedal get softer and you are able to depress it further as vacuum is built up, approximately how far did your pedal move down when you started the engine? How many pumps did it take before pedal was hard when you switched engine off?

It's pretty much a guarantee that a vacuum leak is the cause of the psm light. 

7 hours ago, ManMN said:

Yeah, I will eventually replacing the hose but right now, just trying to find out why it got worse than couple of days ago (without driving the car).  I never hay any issue with the throttle actuator...how can I test without the Durametric?

Before you go wasting any money disconnect your battery and then remove the throttle body and clean it with some solvent cleaner or pure alcohol and a soft cloth. Reinstall throttle, check plug pins are clean and not damaged and reconnect. Make sure all vacuum pipes underneath are connected and not resting near the water pump pulley which could cause rubbing and damage. 

Reconnect your battery, switch ignition to on but don't start engine and don't touch accelerator pedal. After 2 minutes switch off ignition. Switch ignition back on and plug in your code reader, clear all codes and then turn off ignition. 

Turn on ignition and start car, don't touch accelerator. Let it idle for 5 mins. If car feels ok go for short drive near home, after drive check codes. 

If codes for throttle are still there do a throttle body alignment with your scanner. If the scanner doesn't have the capability to do it then follow this, 

Ignition off

Ignition on

Press accelerator to the floor and hold for 30seconds 

Accelerator off and ignition off

Ignition on don't touch anything for 2 minutes 

Ignition off 

Ignition on wait 2 minute and start engine don't touch accelerator let idle for 5 mins 

Clear codes and test drive again. 

Check codes are gone and didn't return. 

It's very unlikely that by bad luck the throttle body is somehow broken by just unplugging it! 

Report back how it goes. 

1 hour ago, ManMN said:

I just found a cracked hose - cannot identify it (attached pic). Looks like it is going through the firewall

Common fault. Many have fixed this with some jb weld or epoxy. This pipe is for the brake booster vacuum part of 13 to 14 I believe so now you know why your getting the codes and weird Braking issues. If you search this forum you'll find others who have diy fixed this before. 

56 minutes ago, Cayenne1992 said:

Hello people,

I have a few questions, oil level on the Cayenne S should be measured when cold or 65c oil temperature? Because I measured it in cold and its in the middle of the dipstick and with the hot oil its full. And also my A/C works perfectly in every fan speed except on 1. It works on 1 only if I put it on another speed and after a few seconds lower it to one. I hear the blower motor making like a squeak sound.

The blower can be removed cleaned up and lubricated and reinstalled to alleviate that issue or you can replace with new. Removal of glove box is required. Pelican has a diy for that. 

Oil level measure when engine has been resting for 10 mins, hot and cold level will vary alittle but not a lot. Keeping oil between 1/2 and 3/4 is ideal. 

The pcv return is piped onto the driver side bank 2 turbo so seeing oil on the right side only stands to reason. 

Over filling won't help and is ill advised, but it seems some oil seen in the right side and in the Y pipe intake etc is normal for these aging engines. 

Pull off the bottom intercooler hose and drain that if you want to some more oil! 

Porsche apparently tell customer draining the oil from the intercooler is a normal practice every 40,000 km or something. 

18 minutes ago, dpatel710 said:

Thanks Lewisweller! That's one of the only posts I have been able to find in regards to the F125. 

 

This switch was a common failure point for my old Audi so I'm going to try the swap this weekend. The factory repair manual procedure doesn't look too bad but I won't know for sure until I get in there. 

Yeah I would try just checking first the plug is not wet or corroded. Especially after it only occurred after Rain. 

5 hours ago, dpatel710 said:

It rained today and when I parked the Cayenne at my apartment, the dreaded "PRND" light up and it prompted to move the gear selector to P or N. The actual gear selector moves fine and displays the light next to whichever gear it is in. 

 

Pulled the codes with vag-com and it came back with - 

00293 - Multi-function Switch (F125)
008 - Implausible Signal

 

Has anyone here had experience with replacing the F125 multifunction switch? 
If so, would it be doable in a parking lot/have any tips for its replacement? 

 

 

This may help 

https://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/50725-cayenne-2009/?tab=comments#comment-283829

6 minutes ago, Cayenne1992 said:

Thank you guys for the reply. Yes, you're right, with AC on the guage rises just a bit. I also thought of a bad thermostat, but if its stuck open why does it still "overheats" past 80c?

Its not overheating, it is designed to open fully at 87oC and the fan also cuts in to maintain that temperature from rising and invariably drops the temp back to 80oC fairly quickly. 

As I said stuck open is not a big issue, stuck closed is! 

I would say the rise is normal but the drop to 60oC identifies the thermostat is stuck open as the engine temperature should be maintained at 80oC all the time and not less. I would hazard a guess your engine takes a long time to warm up? Classic stuck open thermostat symptom. 

The thermostat is designed to open partially at 83oC I believe and fully open at 87oC. The dash gauges is also not very accurate! 

If you have the AC on the temperature is maintained more strictly from rising as the fans are already running. If the AC is off the engine coolant will rise to around 87oC then fall back to 80oC in a cyclic manner. 

As long as it doesn't over heat I wouldn't worry about it. 

11 hours ago, Charles Bradley said:

Car was fine since returning to me, And here we go again today.

 

Had 1/4 tank this morning, no issues and filled up. Few hours later, I am driving through the mountains of NC, tank down to about 1/4, and I have to pass a slower 18 wheeler. 

 

No power to make the pass, had to get back on right, then power surges back. Few miles later, same. On a hunch I pull off to get gas, engine dies as i pull up, but I fill up and she gets me to my destination without a hiccup. That's a fuel pump. Must have sucked one side dry and the other is basically dead. This after both the shop and the Dealer said both sides are good.

 

So after I chew out the Service manager for giving me a huge bill, a pump problem that remains and a car that's still likely to strand me, he says they're paying to fix it right, and I guarantee they will.

 

But I still have to get back to Alabama, can the only pump get me 5-6 hours back home so long as I keep it over 1/4 tank?

This is number 1 Bull****. Search YouTube for that inside joke. 

In your previous post you said about changing both pumps but you didn't go ahead with it I'm assuming? Unfortunate, it's probably the only Fix you needed. It was also the #1 Likely problem I posted in my reply, left fuel pump. Anyhow we are all wise after the fact. 

The pumps can have a tenancy to test ok and still fail, a real b*tch to diagnose and a brave punt to replace even when the testing shows otherwise, so don't beat yourself or the mechanic up too much. The reason behind this is to do with fuel heating, (its also the reason why Porsche doesn't run both pumps all the time and only if required) the pumps get hot and the fuel is quiet warm as well as a result and from external sources also, when the tank level drops the heat increases and an intermittent pump fault can expose itself briefly. When you fill up, more fuel equals cooler temps and the pump might seem ok. 

I would be not be keeping the new DME, swap in your original dme and return new unnecessary dme to the stealership with a big middle finger and let it linger.

After all hope your fixed and back on the road albeit a bit lighter in the wallet.  

6 hours ago, spooltime said:

My spark plugs are due for a replacement, so it might seem like a good time to throw in a fresh set of coils in order to avoid potential duplication of labor down the road.  My engine presently has no coil-related DTCs, and currently has the "20" version of coils in it.  In perusing the Porsche parts catalog, I note the coils for the 955 Turbo Cayennes have been updated twice since my prior coil replacement, and are now number 948 602 104 22, with "21" coils being offered for a period of time.  The equivalent Beru (OEM supplier of the Porsche packaged coils) coil part number is ZSE 012, but Beru's part number cross-reference only goes up to the "20" coil, which I already have.  That makes me think I would be better served going with the Porsche-boxed coil since it might be an improved version over the "20" version or corresponding Beru ZSE012.

 

So my question is really whether the Porsche part number update really means that the part is updated or not.  I've always understood it does, but I'm open to education on this topic since the price for the Porsche coils exceeds the price for the Berus by a not insignificant amount per coil.

 

Anyone know if it's really worth getting the most updated Porsche part number or not?  Or if the "if ain't broke, don't fix it" rule also applies for coils.  I must say that when I replaced my "09" coils with the "20s", I haven't had a coil related issue since.

If your on 20's without any issues I wouldn't waste your money. Get a good set of ngk plugs like Bkr7eix and save the coil money for some other future maintenance or repairs.