lewisweller

2 hours ago, osamabatrikhi said:

Hi

what causes fuel pump fuse to keep blowing FS 13 it is for right side fuel pump, I changed the fuse but its blowing again.

 

Short circuit of wiring to pump or the pump internally is shorted and needs to be replaced. 

I suppose a bad connection could also blow the fuse but a wiring short or pump integral short is much more likely. 

3 hours ago, MarkPlu said:

I am having trouble with my 2005 Cayenne.  it starts fine but every time you open the fuel tank to fill it up when you put the cap back on will not start good at all. Also if you take the gas cap off while the car is running it kill the car immediately. thinking fuel pump but need advise.

Easy test is to clamp the pipe from the evap purge valve that goes to the intake via a T fitting underneath the intake Y pipe. That will instantly identify the evap purge is faulty. The code should be p0441 I think if you scan the car. 

5 hours ago, rjt86 said:

Is there any other suggestions on what to look at that hasn't already been checked?

Durametric won't give me any additional info that the shops have already seen, so I'm not feeling to confident even if I did have it.

Seems like something common to this bank, so my thinking is knock sensor bank 2 or wiring like the earth or signal of the coils loom on bank 2. 

You can easily probe the coils from the rear and check for +12v and earth. There is four pins but I haven't got the pin info to hand. One is a feed back to the Ecu on how the coil is performing. 

I also don't think it is cam related and the maf is not used for idle so if misfires are at idle as well forget the maf sensors for now. 

I'm reaching for the popcorn 

1 hour ago, Brainz006 said:

Thanks for the detailed answer. I'm in Houston, so it's fairly hot and my stutter is mostly a summer phenomenon, and then most noticeable when the engine and environment are hot. Given that the heat range 7 is specified, I should definitely not be running a hotter plug in Houston. Will report back for posterity if it makes a difference.



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Hot weather misfire always leads me to ignition or sensor. 

Have you ever whipped out the crankshaft position sensor and had a look, measure the resistance and also check how strong the magnet is? Very easy to get to don't even need to remove any covers, just put suspension into highest mode and slide under the passenger side just rear of the front tyre. It's right there on the bell housing. 

Other ideas is electrical connection getting warm and resistance increases, look in the wet fuse box under the relays and fuses at the cables and connectors also the dme. Then think about the engine loom it's sensors and also the fuel pump / coil pack relays! Cheap to replace and very hard to diagnose a intermittent fault with. Good luck. 

3 minutes ago, Brainz006 said:

Lewis, what plugs are you running? I realized I installed NGK BKR6EIX plugs when I should have installed the cooler BKR7EIX (now on order). The wrong plug type/temperature might cause a hot stutter and otherwise not be an issue when cold. Apologies if I you already covered it.

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The pig is sold but to answer your question I was indeed running Bkr7eix and it made absolutely no difference to the original plugs to be honest and if your not in a very hot climate I doubt the cooler plug will benefit you much either it may get more sooty if you don't do a lot of highway miles.

Unless your modified boost wise that is?

Bare in mind even a mild boost increase probably won't show any real issues on a healthy engine. The turbo S vs the turbo still used the same plug I'm pretty sure. 

I'm running cooler copper plugs in my stage 2 Audi 3.0t and having bought two set (they are dirt cheap vs iridium or platinum) I swapped them out after 10k km and found them to be very sooty which proves being a cooler plug and having a lot of idle time (waiting around in the heat must leave car running) this plug is not best suited for the car despite having increased boost the plugs are not running hot enough to clean themselves but they may protect the engine a little in the summer peak temperatures here and I won't let them go for too long before changing back to iridium hotter original spec plugs. 

More info than you wanted maybe .........lol

10 minutes ago, Charles Bradley said:

Oh I'm going to ask them to swap the old DME back in there and prove that it does not run with the old one and a new MAF.

 

Question is, would a MAF failure exhibit the symptoms I was having before with the fueling? Would it make the car run 5-7 seconds and die repeatedly?

 

On my other vehicles, it would not, it would cause stumbling/hesitation and possibly some rough running, but I don't know enough of the Porsche electronics to say for sure.

I can't say for sure what the result would be from a signal that may be faulty but my educated guess would be it wouldn't make the dme fudged and need complete replacement! Could be doing the garage a disservice here but swapping in the old dme takes just 3 mins and hook up the battery again, then you'll know for sure if you just got sold a new dme for no good reason. 

Thinking back I did run my ctt 06 with one maf disconnected. It will start and will run. The idle would rise ok and then fall slower I remember, idle was alittle high with maf disconnected. 

1 hour ago, Sandia955S said:

I recently got a '06 955S.  Discovered a serious fuel leak under the left side where one of the fuel pumps reside.  I took it back to the dealer, still under warranty, and along with a faulty right side head light housing which kept coding and a safety brake code they happily fixed all and replaced the fuel pump.  However, ever since then I continuously get the CEL with the EVAP EMISS LEAK (SMALL) code.  I have taken it back to the used car dealer five times now.  They have each time, happily taken the car, and given me a fabulous loaner but I am frustrated as I have been paying on a car for over three months now and have only had actual possession just a 1/3 of that time.  I'm grateful they are willing to continue to work on the car but when do I call it quits and insist they take it to a genuine porsche repair shop.  My shop recommended I push to have the dealer fix it since they did the fuel pump work in the first place but, seriously, this is getting old.

Sounds like this issue only presented itself after the fuel pump was replaced?

Open and replace both Rubber gaskets (labelled as seals number 8 on the diagram) on the left and right side filter and regulator respectively, would be my first and most inexpensive thing to try if DIY and no other ideas. The rubbers are very tricky to refit even when new but a helper will make it easier to get it seated properly and not leak. 

Also the vent pipes to the tank fittings can get damaged by some enthusiastic mechanic work, so consider that as well. 

1 hour ago, Charles Bradley said:

So the car is running again, the faulty DME was causing the FP#1 to not run, but it won't stay running now because one MAF is bad. So did the MAF kill the DME or the DME failure kill the MAF? Since it happened at the same time and there were zero issues with performance beforehand.

 

So I get to add 1 new MAF to the bill to drive it out of the dealership. I'm getting the 2nd one aftermarket. Recommendations?

 

This sounds very fishy to me.

 

 

 

Sounds like bull**** to me. You just got a new dme for nothing quite possibly. Misdiagnosis and most garages won't fess up. 

Is the bad maf sending an erroronous signal?? Maf isn't required to start car or idle. Unplugged it should start and idle. 

Get only Bosch original MAF. Others aftermarket are problematic from experience. The Bosch isn't all that expensive either. Buy online or from Bosch distributor. 

5 hours ago, Charles Bradley said:

Dealership diagnosed it as DME failure, no spares in Atlanta and I have to wait a week for it from Germany.

Remove and send to specialist for repairs. 400dollars approx. Reprogramming may not be required after repair but you'll have to ask them. 

https://www.bosch-repair-service.com/UK_en/Engine_Control_Unit-ME7_1_1-0261207696-Porsche

I removed mine to check inside for dry joints and failed components, don't be afraid to have a look inside it took me 30 mins. 

Replacement and programming will be bloody expensive. What you got to loose by exploring other fixes first. ? 

Vapor lock is quite unlikely IMHO. 

More likely is the venturi jet pick up on the right hand side of the tank, a small pipe of pressurised fuel feed from the primary pump which sucks up a larger quantity of fuel from the right side of the tank and passes that fuel back over to the left side "primary" pump Container is actually sucking some air as you climb up steep continuous hills. The jet venturi is forward of the tank hence fuel would be sloshing away from the jet pickup, fuel will move towards the rear of the tank in a hill climbing circumstance.  

The primary pump delivery therefore exceeds the quantity it can draw through the bottom of the pumps Container (note the bottom plastic filter screen also gets blocked over time with dirt and debris and is not designed to draw up large quantities of fuel especially when engine load is high and fuel mpg is also high). 

There maybe some in tank pipes fallen off or split but they would probably show themselves in normal driving circumstances and from your post it only happened when Hill climbing and when you drove back down hill it was fine? 

Nice info Brett. 

If it helps the guy with 2 dry solder joints on his DME actually was instructed to replace it at cost 3,000 dollars, he opted for a repair instead. The specialist repairer said they doubted the dry joints was the whole issue. His mechanic then found a partially broken wire between the dme and the pump (sorry no more detail given which wire). Concluding that most likely the wire was the real fault, the dry joints where coincidental and maybe not causing the issue. 

Did some reading,

1. Most causes is fuel pump, namely the left primary pump for obvious reasons. 

2. Wiring rubbing on chassis and caused the cut out. Bad earth also one person reported. 

3. DME dry solder joints, sent to specialist and they found two dry joints. 

4. Hidden under wet fuse box an Aftermarket immobiliser fitted was causing cut out after 10 seconds. 

Can't find any other examples......

9 minutes ago, Charles Bradley said:

It identifies relays 19 and 1/6, as well as Fuse 14, I found 13 was the other one by pulling off other diagrams.

 

He told me both pumps hold 65psi throughout

Flow volume test to rule out fuel issue and move on with the search. 

06 is optional battery in boot and most do not have one. That said the boot battery is only for stating the engine and I'm struggling to hypothesise how that would chase this issue. 

As a sanity check can you do one thing, pull out fuse number 14 and start the car. What happens?

You mentioned pulling out fuel pump relay but was it the right one? 

Fuse 14 is the left side primary pump, when you start the car it runs both pumps for about 5-10 seconds then if fuel level is above say 1/4 tank it only runs the primary. So this is consistent with your symptoms. 

If the car runs with the fuse 14 removed then bingo, it the primary pump, or its piping or its electrical feed somewhere. 

12 hours ago, thor1974 said:

are that the O Rings?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PORSCHE-OEM-11-17-Cayenne-Front-Suspension-Air-Spring-O-ring-N90367701/252730153941

I think I am mistaken, the air spring part (not the whole strut assembly) is sold as a unit, I've looked to see if any rebuild or repair kit for it is available but I don't find anything. 

The oring you see in the diagram isn't holding any air seal I don't think. Also this is for the newer cayenne and slightly different assembly. 

907 DTC is a red herring I seriously doubt it bares any relevance to this engine cutting out issue. It may be an early battery or frequent short journey warning issue. 

For me I would check: 

1. Battery voltage with engine off, less than 12.4 volts is not ideal. Engine running 13.7-14vokts  is perfect. Unlikely cause but best to check anyway first. 

2. Bad fuel possible? Silicon, water,  containment in the tankers is not unheard of. 

3. The fuel filter is blocked? You will see adequate pressure but the flow test will reveal the flow is not correct, 800ml in 15 seconds is the spec. 

4. The regulator works when pump is primed bit maybe it's failing as the engine runs? You would need a test kit that can measure pressure whilst the engine is running and also at different loads and rpm, tape gauge to windscreen and go for a drive. 

5. If none of the above highlight anything tangible or sensible I would be getting inside the tank and looking for a pipe split or broken! And at 170k replace both pumps, filter and regulator regardless. They don't last forever. 

If you switched between pumps it's unlikely that both pump failed simultaneously. 

If crank sensor or coolant sensor etc the car won't start. And no codes is a big clue to something less than obvious like a pipe split in the tank for example. 

29 minutes ago, ekstroemtj said:

@lewisweller first time i dont agree with you Lewis. My first Indy did it exactly the same way like you discribed. Topping of is not enough IMO. 

Your absolutely right Thomas. Vacuum bleeding is always the preferred method if available. 

6 hours ago, thor1974 said:

i have a 2006 Porsche Cayenne 4.5 V8 Bi-Turbo.

 

after i parked the car overnight the front suspension goes down and the rear stay up. the display show nothing about a failure. if i start the engine the front goes up and after a short while i hear that by the passenger side airfilterbox the air get short release again. the whole suspension is working perfect only that the fron goes down over night. i sprayed all lines and airbags in with dish liquid to see whether there is a leak but i didn't find anything. can it be that the regulation valve is not proper working or the little valves on the strut?

 

please help!!!

Had exactly the same thing. I could not find any leaks either. My guess is the actual leak is either inside the valve controller solenoid unit itself or the strut oring seals top or bottom is leaking. 

Mine was the passenger side front which went down completely overnight. The drivers side front also went down but only a little bit. 

The cost to replace orings is cheap but labour time is maybe 4 hrs. It maybe the solenoid controller internally cost of that I don't know. 

thor 

The system will self bleed. You need to keep the fluid level at max and close the cap. Go for a drive and leave the AC MAX HEAT on to help prevent any over heating and circulate coolant all through the system and get air out. Just in case you do have a fault, keep a close eye on the gauge. 

After the drive leave the car overnight to completely cool down to cold. 

In the morning check the fluid and top it up to max again. Repeat this process until the level is correct. This is now completely bled and no air is left. 

For your info and as Loren posted, the fan will not kick in unless the coolant temp is higher than 93oC, but if the AC is on fans are running anyway. To ensure your thermostat water pump and fans are working correctly (assuming all air is bled from system already) you sit at idle with the AC off. The temp gauge should rise to the mark between half and 3/4 then the fan should kick in and the temp will drop to half way on th gauge, this sequence should repeat itself. 

If you live in a hot climate the gauge can also do this at highway speed also depending on engine load but must never go to 3/4 or above as this is overheating for sure. 

I've had head gaskets blow on mine and symptoms are fuel smell in coolant, air bubbles in coolant, coolant loss, overheating at idle which temp drops when revving the engine as coolant is circulated quicker away from the blown head area and through the system. 

Follow the bleed process and report back. Don't run the engine with the cap off!  it will overflow as water expands and the system is pressurised. You can how ever run from cold and squeeze the top hoses to bleed some air out BEFORE it gets hot but close the cap quickly before it starts to overflow. 

Good luck. 

12 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

So I short shifted at 5000 rpm, this is from second:

 

 

And this from first, going up to 4th:

 

 

 

Sure enough boost stayed up much better and was higher. Down side of course is the times are slower.

 

So I guess I should end this as a boot leak thread as I don’t think anything is leaking any more. It’s just the ECU tune combined with the turbo range. So I guess my next project will be re-mapping my ECU myself! But that will have to wait, as we leave in a few days for our cross country drive. Before I headed out tonight there is a new slight tapping noise, the secondary air injector registered a not ready condition, and the normally rock stead idle was wavering between 560 and 520. Combined with the slow leak from the torque converter seal and the home made center support bearing, I hope things hold together for the next 7000 km!

 

Oops. Good luck. 

I'm arm deep into a repair on the Audi, Sunday it decided to overheat and I've diagnosed a stuck closed thermostat, quite common on these I've read. The repair is involved, with the supercharger having to come off amongst other stuff. Was nearly there and then disaster struck broke a coolant pipe which has 5 connections to it. So now have to squeeze in the tight space and remove a whole load of crap to get the broken pipe out. And hope there is one in stock somewhere tomorrow or I'm screwed for a week if coming from Germany. 

Some good news, I'm striking a deal with the guy who bought my Golf R, part X back the golf to me in exchange for the Audi and 40k cash in my favour. Will then sell the golf and clear a better return than just selling the Audi. Winner winner chicken dinner. 

On 08/08/2017 at 8:53 AM, Zakowsky said:

 

Congratulations Lewis! You paid your dues with this one, but many are wiser for what you have posted. Best of luck with what comes next!

The new German owner messaged me About the check tail light and the four wheel drive faulty message. I passed him the contact of a indy garage here that has PIWIS and german owner. I did reassure him the four wheel drive fault isn't mechanical or a safety issue. 

They should get along great, his wallet and their services . .........

My prediction of his repair if he goes ahead will be replace TC servo and control module, and new rear comfort control module with reprogramming. About 4,000dhs at least. He will get off lightly, I spent 30,000dhs easily on that car in 18months.

Welcome to Porsche Cayenne world 

31 minutes ago, Zakowsky said:

Although I started this in the overboost thread, figured I’d end it here. Not a great ending really, but for others who might be doing the same. I finally replaced the diverter valves, and just a few notes on the job. Passenger side is obviously easy, but (in hindsight) the driver’s side can be even easier with the right tools, in that taking the wheel tubs out on the passenger side in a PITA on mine for some reason...well out is easy, getting them back in is a pain.

 

For the drivers side I messed with the top clamp for an hour with a variety of needle nose vise grips and pliers and such, then said screw it and went and bought one of these for 30$.

 

 

So not the standard straight ones which most places sell, got this in a set of two at Canadian Tire. Using the one with the angle in them it took me literally 30 seconds to take the clamp off and the valve out. Other tip is when you put the new valve in, put the pliers on the clamp before you install the valve. It ratchets, so lock it open, slide it over the hose, install the valve then slide it down. 30 minutes wasted before figuring that out too.

 

But before the results, does anyone know wtf this is? I took out the driver’s side valve and this fell out of it! A short steel tube, doesn’t look like part of the valve. Why would this be in there? I thought maybe it fell down the hose from what ever is above?

 

 

 

When I saw that, and that the wrong diverter valves were in there to start with (0 280 142 108, which is for an Audi) I thought the new ones (710P) would be the answer. Not so however. The wheezing noise was a bit louder and the 0-60 times a bit worse if anything. Here are the graphs:

 

 

So with new diverters I’ve learned for sure that the wheezing noise is just my wastegates opening. It happens mainly when I accelerate lightly and let up quickly, like it was getting ready to built up fast but gets stopped, and dumps out the air. Doesn’t happen with WOT. Putting one new DV in did drop the turbo start RPM from ~2500 down to ~2200, and putting the second dropped it further down to ~2010. But I paid for that on the other end, as now they don’t break 0.7 bar. But over all it holds boost better in medium acceleration, they kick in faster so I guess in typical driving they will be better. Just sucks to lose top end.

 

But what really is a bummer is when I am not WOT I can actually get better performance...here is a slow acceleration before going to about 3/4 throttle. Almost 0.8 bar! And holds better too.

 

 

There must be a reason for this. Any ideas, and does anyone know what that steel ring is for? I didn’t put it back in btw...thanks.

 

Steel ring wasn't in mine and I don't see what it is for either. I bet the new one didn't have it. 

As for the noises, yes having performance intake will let you hear the wastegates clearly. Thinking back to my mk4 golf 1.8 20v turbo which I modified moderately, Ecu, DV cold air intake, mounts, exhaust, whole suspension, brakes etc made a lovely whoooaaaa whosh on acceleration and lift off, with the lift off wastegate "chatter flutter" turning heads in the street .....ahh to be young and carefree. Lol

So yeah I think you noises are not an issue.

I don't understand the boost levels, sometimes 0.8 and then sometimes less? This has to be something in the Tuning, probably a poor tune at that. 

Try this to See the result: record pls the dash gauges also if possible. 

Start in 2nd in Manual, 

Hard WOT at 5k short shift to 3rd 

At 5k short shift to 4th (you'll be breaking all sorts of laws at this point) 

The result if everything is working ok should be the boost stays pegged at max. !

8 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

@lewis @mark...

depends on the reading of the diagram.

the RED tubes are going from the Driver side Turbo up . There is no T but there are 2 lines going in different directions. One is ending on the Top of n75 valve. 

Dont know if there is a reading too.

It's only a return air pipe, as the maf has already measured the air going in the system so it must stay in the system by way of returning back to pipe 14 and back into the driver side turbo inlet. 

3 hours ago, hahnmgh63 said:

I may have been mistaken quoting the diagram number Lewis. Are you saying that Porsche has chosen to only to only sense off of one Turbo?  On my Audi with ME7.1.1 both wastegate hoses go to a tee then onto the N75 and both Turbos have a sense line that tee's then goes onto the N75.

Yes, it senses from the passenger bank 1 turbo only. There is no pipe to the drivers side turbo.