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johneevans2

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Everything posted by johneevans2

  1. Ok thanks man. So going direct OEM replacement is the best way to go? No upgrades.
  2. Did you mean you "wouldn't" buy from Pelican and buy from Sunset instead??
  3. I have the exact same symptoms and I'm planning on doing just what you did to fix it this weekend. Question is...I know Bosch plugs is the way to go, but for the coils...are you able to get replacement coil from the local auto store? They have an option that's "manufacture direct" is what they call it but obviously I'm skeptical or worry its a referb. Is it best just to go with Pelican or has anyone had success from the local auto parts store. Second question...is there any benefit in getting a high performance coil. I don't track the car and only have aftermarket exhaust currently and may look at going with and IPD plenum and ECU flash down the road. Thanks in advance.
  4. Ok guys Finally figured it out....after checking trim values a million times and ensuring there were no air leaks, I began thinking that maybe the "new" MAF was defective. So I bit the bullet and purchased another MAF. I haven't had a CEL since. I want to give Ahsai a shout out along with all other contributors for all the info and recommendations. I learned a ton about my car while tracking this ghost down.
  5. OK, it looks like my MAF is giving low values...like the highest value was 44....and the low value was 7. I haven't replaced my fuel filter or anything having to do with the fuel system. I will get those other values on the way to the house tonight and post.
  6. Ok FINALLY!! And thank you for the advice I did just that in going through amazon. I'm not sure what all needed to be logged but I got the STFT and LTFT values for both banks...the STFT values stayed around the -4 to +4 but sometimes climbed up as high as 10 or 11. The LTFT values are around +25. Research I have done says this indicates it's running lean and possible issues could be; -vacuum leaks at manifold or surrounding areas -Weak fuel pump, fuel line issues or regulator issues - MAF -Injectors -spark plugs (these have been recently replaced) -Compression leaks - exhaust manifold -Bad O2 Sensor Are there any other readings I could gain from the Torque readings that would lead me in the right direction on any of these.
  7. Yes sir that is the MAF part number. Well since this reader is coming from another planet I guess I'm going to try and find one local today and post some values.
  8. Ahsai, reader still hasn't arrived...however some info you requested earlier I have. With the motor running I do have suction. Also I tried driving to work this morning with MAF disconnected. Within 5 miles I got CEL but codes were different. I got P0102 and P0112. I didn't get the usual P1128 and p1130. I believe P0102 is still the MAF but the P0112 indicates Air Temperature Sensor. Could those have come up just bc I disconnected the MAF? But having disconnected the MAF, I didn't see the P1128 and 1130 which leads me to believe the new MAF may be faulty. Something else to note, the other night I went out in the country and drove the car pretty hard and in 2nd gear when I step on the gas hard (meaning 75% - 80% to the floor) it would throw no CEL but it would throw my ABS and PSM lights on the dash. So at a stop sign I turned car off and restarted to have the light turned off, and then I went normal through 2nd (no lights) and then in 3rd I again pushed gas to about 80% I got the lights again. So I drove the car normal to ensure I didn't mess anything up. Then yesterday while on the highway, I decided to test it in a higher gear, so I downshifted from 6th to 5th and again hit the gas hard and the lights came on. Every time I get those lights when pushing has hard I feel a lag in throttle response, like it stops pulling. If I continue to push the gas it will eventually come out of the lag I was describing and start accelerating like it should. So does that sound like the throttle (since it's e-gas) isn't being told to open by the computer? Or could that be a fuel pressure issue? Or could it still go back to the MAF? I know when the OBD reader comes in, I will be able to post some values that will help as you have recommended. I wish I had somewhere local to get one bc it's driving me nuts and I feel like i'm damaging the car.
  9. Ahsai...thanks man. I will update as soon as it comes in.
  10. Ok Torque Pro it is. Also, if I unplug the MAF, how long am I able to drive (miles) before creating issues. It usually takes a drive cycle to replicate the issue....or sometimes a little longer.
  11. I just removed the oil cap and it seems to be set and sealing properly but there is no suction (engine not running). I will get online tonight and see if incan find a reader that will get me those values until I pull the trigger on the durametric. I will post the results when I get it along with any other info I come across. Thank you for your help thus far.
  12. My Bad, sorry for the lack of info. -2001 Carrera C2. -Bosch part # matches the old one and also matches the part # that indicates it's E-Gas. -Unfortunately I do not have Durametric or a code read for real-time...I'm currently researching options, I would like Durametric. -I have not traveled further than 10 miles with MAF unplugged....one post said to do that and see if performance improved. When I did so I got a few other lights that popped up on the dash and was worried I may mess something up. -Only aftermarket product is an Agency Power exhaust that was installed by the previous owner. The air filter I perchased was Mann. The previous owner said he didn't get those codes...but I have gotten them since I have owned the vehicle (4 months)
  13. I have been getting the p1128 and p1130 for a while and the Porsche dealer recommended I start with MAF but no guarantee. So after some deliberating I ordered a new MAF along with a new air filter and installed....5 - 10 miles into test drive I got p1128 and p1130 codes I had already been getting but also got p1125 and p1132. I erased the codes and continued driving and since then (3 days) I continued to get only p1128 and p1130 codes. The Check engine light comes on only when I'm at idle at a stop light, never while driving. Could an aftermarket exhaust cause back pressure that would trigger the code? I have looked for leaks around intake also and I have found none...however I haven't used smoke, just visual inspection.
  14. Ok, so I looked for the relay in position 6 and 7 and there are no relays there and whats worse is there is no electrical connection in those spots, just to empty slots with nothing behind them. Am I correct in assuming that means that the headlight assembly was purchased to replace the non-HID headlights that could have come with the car? If so that leads me to believe the issue is in the headlight housing.
  15. My 2001 C2 is throwing the same codes (P1128 and P1130)....it has done that since I bought it. Porsche dealer says it's the MAF. I haven't replaced it yet but I have cleaned it twice and cleaned all other areas around intake and throttle. Still throws the code. Has anyone found a more than likely fix for this problem??
  16. Ahsai, thank you for the response. OK, that's actually great news!! I will remove and bench test tonight and let you know my findings!!
  17. All lights work correctly except the driver DRL doesn't work. I have replaced the bulb and still nothing. Question...could the double relay be the cause? I assumed if the relay were bad that both DRL wouldn't work so I haven't replaced it yet. But after reading comments I began thinking the possibility of just one portion of the relay could be faulty if it's a double relay. I worry that the issue could be contained in the headlight housing, although when I replaced the bulb the housing looked almost untouched. Has anyone ran into this issue??
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