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Posts posted by dmenn

  1. Update: I had the car towed to my local independant Porsche mechanic and he diagnosed it as a bad DME. He said he's seen this problem about 5-6 times since the e-gas started in 2000. The part is currently on order. I'll report back once it arrives and let you know if that solved the problem.

    Thanks guys!!

  2. Hi all, I have a 2000 Boxster S, manual transmission, and I'm in the USA.

    Yesterday I was driving the car and all of sudden the accelerator pedal stopped working. It didn't matter how hard or easy I pressed the pedal, the engine RPMs did not change. I pulled over and the car just sat there idiling. I turned off the car and restarted, but no pedal action.

    I was able to get the car home since I was only a mile away. This morning the car would just barely start and stall again.

    I pulled out the Durametric and I received the following codes:

    P1219, Porsche fault code 256 - Accelerator pedal potentiometer, Signal implausible


    P1578, Porsche fault code 428 - Accelerator pedal potentiometer


    P0121, Porsche fault code 117 - Throttle valve, Signal implausible


    P1121, Porsche fault code 430 - Throttle position sensor, Signal implausible


    P1122, Porsche fault code 431 - Throttle position sensor, Signal implausible

    I find it hard to believe that both the accelerator pedal potentiometer and the throttle position sensor would go bad at the same time.

    I recently put in an EVO Intake and Headers (had the O2 sensor moved behind the 2nd cat), but the car was working fine with both of these installed.

    Has this happened to anyone before or do you have any suggestions? Your feedback and thoughts would be appreciated.


  3. I hooked up my Durametric tool and the radio code wasn't in there.

    Then I tried some different combinations close to the two numbers you provided.

    7071 worked!! Thank you!

    I tried both of those codes but they didn't work. Do you have any other suggestions? Thanks!

    Can you please help me with a radio code?






    Try 7070



    Read the thread here.... there are other suggestions...

  4. For some reason every time I come to renntech.org I have to re-login. I had the box checked that says 'remember me', however it recognizes me as a guest every time I log in.

    I've tried to remove my cookie for renntech.org and do it again, but that doesn't work. I also tried to go into the reviews section and delete my cookie that way and that didn't help. I'm using IE7.

    Does anyone have any suggestions?


  5. Update:

    I tested the unit outside of the car and it worked. The red wire was +12V and the black/blue one needed to go to Ground. Also, the actual wire that pulled on the trunk lock needed to go to ground. With that combination, it actuated exactly as it should.

    Looks like I might have to go to the dealer for this one, as it looks like it is probably a central alarm unit problem.

    I will provide updates as I have more information.

  6. A few pictures attached .. as you can see, it definitely looks like item #22 in that picture you showed me. My car was sold in mid-2000, so perhaps they started using that new part when they built my car.

    I did a bit of research and it seems as if part #22 is 986.512.117.00. Tool Pants - does that look right to you, based on your part list? I know it says for 01+, but this definitely looks like what I have.




  7. Update:

    I pulled the rear spoiler and the rear trunk area so I could get in there and investigate this some more. I was able to locate this 'trunk actuator' and it actually resembles #22 in the picture above. The part number on the casing is 996.624.117.01. Does that align with your part diagram?

    So I looked through the electrical wiring diagrams in my Bentley manual, and the plug going into this actuator has a red wire and black wire with a blue stripe on it. Per the manual, the red wire has +12V on it. I checked it and indeed it does. The black/blue wire comes straight from the alarm control unit and I was unable to tell what the voltage should be. It was reading about .3 to .4 volts. So, I did a test, and after holding the trunk buttond down for 2-3 seconds, the voltmeter spiked. However, I was unable to tell what it spiked to because I have a digital voltmeter and not an analog one. If I knew it was supposed to spike to +12V, I would test it outside of the car.

    However, based on these results, it seems to me that the remote and computer is working properly and the computer is sending the voltage signal to the actuator at the right time. I assume the actuator must be bad.

    When doing a search on this part number I listed above, it didn't mention trunk actuator. Pelican Parts calls it a 'Setting Element'. A similar part number but with 00 at the end instead of 01 is called 'Release Actuator'. So do I need to buy both of these parts? Tool Pants - do they list more than one part number for item #22 in that part diagram you have?


  8. Thanks for the fast replies and detailed information ToolPants ...

    I plan to do some maintenance on the car after work throughout the week, so I'll try and spend some time and see if I can locate the actuator. I would imagine that if I hold down the trunk button on my remote, some voltage should come up those two wires to activate the actuator. I can get my voltmeter out and do some testing to see if the voltage is getting to the unit or not. Hopefully that will help narrow things down.

    I will report back on this thread within the next week I hope ....

  9. Ok, I pulled off the plastic cover and both the black and white cables are connected. While I was in there I decided to plug in the spoiler motor and I tested that with the switch by the fuse box, and the spoiler moves up and down. So, that tells me there is power going to that plug and that the fuse is fine.

    I tried the remote again and I get no noise whatsoever.

    Could the dealer have potentially disabled the remote trunk function when the Aerokit was initially installed? Is that even an option on the PST2 tool?

    Are there any other things I can check to try and narrow the problem down?


  10. OK - Thanks for the feedback guys.

    Mike - I've definitely been holding the remote button for many seconds, so no luck there.

    Tool Pants - I followed the procedure you described. The trunk latch does not move or make any noises when I hold down the trunk release button on my remote. I tried both remotes. I had to use the door sill lever to get the latch open again, so that I could close my trunk.

    Any other thoughts or things I could try?


  11. Hi all,

    Let me give you some background first. I have a 2000 Boxster S with Factory Aerokit I. The fuse for the rear spoiler is plugged in. The connector for the spoiler motor in the trunk is unplugged and the connector for the trunk release mechanism is plugged in.

    I have never been able to open the rear trunk with the remote since I've had the car. The previous owner said it didn't work because the Aerokit wing was too heavy. I've spoken to someone else who has the Aerokit I and his trunk release works on his remote. When I hold down the trunk button on my remote, I do not get any sound from the trunk area. The remote works fine for locking/unlocking the car. I tested both remotes and get the same results. I assume the remote is working properly.

    Does anyone have any suggestions on what could be wrong?



  12. Thanks.

    This is AeroKit I.

    On it, the electric spoiler that moves up and down is removed and a plastic plate takes it's place. To fill the gap left by the movable spoiler a longer tunk lid made of plastic is installed.

    I now think I am confused by "I" and "eye."

    See, there is a factory Aerokit I and II, and a combination of both.

    I was told that the factory Aerokit I when it initally came out looked like the picture you just posted. They removed the cap on the spoiler (or the spoiler completely) and had a longer trunk lid to cover it. However around 2001'ish they started using the factory trunk lid, covered the 3rd brake light, and just disabled the spoiler. My car is a 2000 S, however it was sold in mid-2001, so most likely they just did to mine what they did to the other 20001's.

  13. Trmassin - thanks for the info, I will check the trunk and see if I can find the plug.

    I need to see a picture of the rear of you car with the tunk lid open and closed, because your question makes no sense to me.

    I've attached two pictures that were taken when I first purchased the car, so I picked the best two shots that line up with what you're asking for.



  14. Hi - I have the factory Aerokit I installed on my Porsche Boxster 2000 S.

    At some point in time I plan to upgrade to a different exhaust, and from what I've read, it's much easier to remove the rear bumper to change out the exhaust. I've also read that in order to get the rear bumper off, you need to raise the spoiler in order to get access to a couple nuts or screws.

    My question for the board is - I'd like to find out how I can activate the spoiler so that I can manually put it up to remove the rear bumper. I bought this car used and the prior owner told me that the dealer deactivated the spoiler (I also do not see any warning light on my dash).

    I checked the fuse box and the fuse for the rear spoiler is in there and is good. I've tried using the buttons down by the fuse box, but that does not activate the spoiler. I've read somewhere that there is a relay in the trunk that works the spoiler, which could be the reason, or perhaps the spoiler motor was unplugged.

    Can anyone provide some insight on things I could check/do in order to activate the spoiler?


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