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S2Andy last won the day on December 27 2018

S2Andy had the most liked content!

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Interests
    Cars, motor racing, DIY car maintenance, fishing, skiing, cycling.

Profile Fields

  • From
    New Zealand
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    1991 944S2 (3, one LHD, one M030, one M030 clone)
    1987 928S4 (5 spd manual)
    1990 964 C2 (5 spd manual, definitely a work in progress)
    2005 997 C2S (6 speed)
    1993 BMW 850 CiA
    1990 Toyota Celica GT4 (ST185)
  • Future cars
    I'm happy at the moment! Maybe a GT2 one day.
  • Former cars
    1984 944 (my first Porsche), 1972 Ford RS1600 Escort

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S2Andy's Achievements


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  1. Hi everyone, Thanks Mark, for the reassuring posts I just read. Seems that these gearboxes have a few issues when cold but they are great once warmed up. Agree it is the forward fill plug that is used to fill the gearbox. I am new to 997 6-speed ownership although I have manual 944 S2, 928 S4 and 964 cars as well. They all shift pretty well, even the S4 with 136k miles! My '06 C2S has 80k kms (50k miles) and a standard shifter with quite long throws. I've driven the short shift kits in 996's and I like the rifle bolt feel, they are very positive but no doubt harder on the synchros. In my 997, the shifts from 4th to 5th and 5th to 6th are notchy until the gearbox oil is warmed up (about four miles seems to be enough for clean 5th and slow shifts in to 6th) First four gears shift well right from cold but I was concerned enough with the slow synchros into 5 and 6 to drain the trans today. The old oil was darker in colour, and I found a few tiny bits of steel in the sump plug residue and collected a few more from the bottom of the gearbox with a magnet, but with 80km on the clock, this was nothing significant IMHO. I replaced the oil with 2.6 litres of ​PetroCanada 75-90 Synthetic, it was definitely thicker than the old fluid. (I have had good experience with this oil in my 944 racecar which handles very rapid shifting with no problems) I then took it for a drive and the shifts into 5th and 6th seemed no better until the gearbox oil was a bit warmed up, but I will take the car for a longer drive to see if the oil getting around a bit more will improve the shifts earlier from cold. If this doesn't work I I will try some Swepco 80-90, then after that it will be looking into synchro replacement as I don't like the faint crunch I hear at all! I'll update this after a few more km on the new oil.
  2. I just bought my C2S and on day two I broke my trunk switch, (pulled it too hard) but when I got it out, found it had been broken and glued once before, and wasn't making good pressure on the switch button. Mine was repairable but I got a new switch rather than risk repeating the job. A lot more expensive for that switch here in NZ but Continental Cars in Auckland gave me the best price. the part no is now 997-613-105-02-A05 (the 01 has been superseded.) Thanks for the guidance ref the Allen screws (metric 5mm) under the little black covers. They are a long way out towards the door so it helps to have a shortened Allen Key to fit between the seat and bulkhead. Cut the long shaft of the allen key down to about 50mm and poke it around til you engage the Allen screws and turn about three turns out to loosen the clamping washers These screws clamp on two vertical tangs that help retain the long cover plate on the door sill. It is also held by push in clips (the ones that look like miniature bottle brushes) so lifting it by one end and gently working the cover out of the holes will save you breaking the plate. Also quite tricky opening the clips to release the switch from the door cover plate. I took the electrical part off first and then the concave retainer out of the door cover plate. Installation was easy and the new switch works instantly. Yahoo! Next job is reinstalling the solenoid for the locking fuel cover!
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