Carerra

1 hour ago, JFP in PA said:

 You isolate the damaged wire section, remove it, and correctly replace it with the appropriate sized and color replacement.  To do it correctly, you cut open the bundle, solder in the new wire, apply heat shrink tubing over the solder joint(s) and rewrap the harness.  You can replace the entire harness, but you will need a big check book for that; one or two wires and some time would come in a Hell of a lot cheaper.  Done correctly, you would have to look very closely to even know it had been touched.  Running duplicate wires is quicker, but also a flag saying someone did not want to take the time to do it correctly, and which could turn prospective buyer's off.

Thanks!!!!

2 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

 

You replace it.  This is not rocket science...…..

I am not trying to be thick, but do you fish new versions of just the wires involved through the existing bundle, run duplicate wires, or replace the entire the bundle, which would be basically most the wires to the electronics in the front of the car?

2 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

 

Considering the code definition (e.g.: a short), I would also check the unit's wiring. 

Great........  If you isolate a short in a wire harness that runs through the firewall to the ECU, what do you even do?  

Put tape over the CEL?

5 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

 

P2402 indicates an internal short in the leak detection pump, which is probably why it won't run.  Usually, it also means that the pump has to be replaced.

I agree with you on this.  My problem is that I have replaced the pump/valve assembly and the filter and I still have the code.  

2010 Carrera S 6M Cab 150k miles

TLDR: Dealer tells me the code is 2402 and Durametric returns 0024 with a description that matches the dealer.
I am getting screwey values when I look up actual values.
I try to clear codes and they don't seem to clear.
Has anyone else seen this?

I got CEL after about 1000 miles after replacing the catalytic converters myself. I pulled the codes with my Durametric and got:
0024 - DMTL Diagnosis module for tank leakage; pump drive rUpper limit exceeded
0010 - Intake camshaft driver

I took it to Porsche because I wrongly figured this was related to my cats. They pulled the codes and said the car was throwing 2402 and that the 0010 was in the system but had been there for a long time and was not relevant.

Now I had cleared that 0010 about a half dozen times so I thought it was fresh. It did not register at the time, but that means my reset did not work.

They said that it would cost $1,100 to replace the DM-TL and filter. It was very likely the right thing to do because they tried to actuate it and it would not spin.

As I have dropped about $14k on my Porsche habit in the last 30 months and my wife has had about enough of this, I paid the diagnostic fee and replace the parts myself (saving about $700).

Now my Durametric is still pulling the same codes plus a new one:
0014 which it says is No signal/communication

That code, like the 0024, is not in my copy of the Porsche 997 essential companion.

So when went to look at live values relevant to the DM-TL the Durametric was putting in some weird results. Percents or bars when the units should have been seconds.

Background: DM-TL is a complicated pump/sensor that determines that there are no leaks in the gas fume recycling system. It pulls low amps if there is a leak, so a high value means there is a problem with the pump or maybe a short.

20 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

 

What codes?

Thanks for asking!   0010 and 0024

I posted it as a separate thread:  Renntech.org

UPDATE - Started getting codes on the CAT.  Tried ignoring it, but it did not work.

I had to grind them off and put in new ones.  Now I have new codes.

Some people wrap them new to protect the  paint.  

What bolts did you tighten?

2010 Carrera S Cab 6M 149K Miles

So......

I replaced the catalytic converters and the oxygen sensors. I reset the codes and started a Charlotte to DC trip. A few hundred miles into it the CEL came back on.

I had lots of driving left to do. I finally got a chance to pull the codes and they are attached.

After watching a John Rabby Video, I thought I would check the Ready Status. OMG, I have no idea what to make of it - also attached.

If anybody has suggestions, I am anxious to hear them.

Thanks!!

I was clearing codes and the Durametric seems to have hung at the air conditioner. (that is where a fault was) 

Is pressing cancel an option (I am obviously a noob)

2010 C2S 108K miles

I was planning to replace the plugs.  I went to remove the mufflers.  They were very corroded - especially the two I do not have to remove.  I used penetrating oil (acetone + AFT).  They are much prettier, but they are still corroded.

Here is a 1 min video of the bolts so you can see what I am facing:

Questions:

If I get started on removing them and it does not go well, what next?  Surely I don't have to replace the catalytic converters?  Are the bolts somehow replaceable?

Do they look too far gone?

If you use penetrating oil to disassemble, does it cause the bolts to come loose after you reassemble them?    

Do you have to clean the parts somehow afterwards or just retighten to the proper torque and be done with it?

I got my 2010 997.2 Cab in June.  I am really happy with it so far.  My fingers are crossed and I am knocking wood, no major repairs so far.  

The previous owner had installed SmartTop 997 from Mods4Cars.com.  I never would have known it had the instructions not been printed out on 8.5 x 11 paper in the glove box. It is great.  It allows you to open and close the top with one touch.  This is really cool when you are driving or parking (below 30 mph).   I also lets you put the windows up and down more easily and make other fiddly changes that I have forgotten because once you set it up, it is just part of the car.

It came with the car, so I have no idea what it cost, but I really like it.

Also, make sure you have a Porsche savvy mechanic check it out.  I had a mechanic check out the first car I liked and it was a no-go.  For the second car I liked I got a mechanic who found about $1,600 in needed repairs that the dealer made before I bought it.  

Edit: WTF is a 992.1?

I don't mean to poke a bear here.  It is just that I see many differing values quoted around the site for oil change intervals.  

I believe the Porsche owners manual says changes should happen at 20,000 miles.  In posts, here and other sites, I have seen recommendations from 2,000 to 15,000.  

I have had the occasion to break bread with people who design motor oil additives and motor oils.  They seem like they really know what they are talking about.  I expect that Porsche know what they are talking about as well.  I am familiar with Porsche's leather tanning and finishing standards and they are extremely high,  I expect they care more about their oil.

I am not trying to be inflammatory, I just really want to know.  Why (specifically) do people believe that the oil needs to be changed so frequently?  

I am not talking about running the car on the race track.  That is obvious.  However, the 911 is know as the best daily driver supercar for a reason. Lots of us drive them like cars.  For those instances, what is the proper change interval?  I am really interested in the experiences that led you to that recommendation.  Also, does it vary by the specific engine.  (Mine is the MA1.01)

Thanks for the advice.  I have some slightly cooked fingers, but It I got the oil level correct.

Got a new to me 2010 997.2 Carerra S.  This is my first Porsche having owned a series of BMWs. 

I watched a number of DIYs on the oil change and it seemed to go off without a hitch. 

I warmed up the engine prior and let it drain for about 3 hours while I attended to other things. I changed the filter and put in 10qts of oil. 

Now the oil level light says it is over full. I guess that is ok as it was eating about a quart a month which seems normal to a BMW owner.  I figured it would drop over a few weeks but it hasn't. 

Now about once every day or three since the oil change it asks me to measure the oil level.  Should I be concerned? It seems weird that the proper amount of oil would over top the gauge.