TNT79Bronco

I need to get some parts (bolts) for my transmission repair project. I had to replace the torque converter and oil pump, and in the process, a couple of the torx bolts stripped out. I was going to replace all of the bolts I took out, but am having difficulty locating the parts. I have the part numbers, but nobody seems to stock them. Does anybody know of a transmission parts supplier that actually answers the phone or has stock? I have tried Whatever It Takes Transmission Parts (no luck) and Cobra Transmission never answers their phone.

Back to our regularly scheduled program on disassembling the transmission. Turns out you DO have to remove something else, other than the 9 bolts. You have to remove the 5 short rubber hoses that are seen in the first picture, and circled below. Once you do that, you can then insert a short prybar at the end the section that attaches to the oil pump, and apply a light outward pressure. See the red line in the photo. The pump pushes right out. I saw a video online of a guy rebuilding a ZF5HP19 for a BMW 325. Good video for reference. As a note. When I was using the T27 to remove the 9 bolts, one of the heads stripped out on one of the bolts. I then just carefully drilled the head off. Once the pump was removed, I was easily able to remove the bolt that was still screwed into the transmission. You can see the bolt at the 10 o’clock position in the picture of the oil pump.

Thanks! Sorry....my link to the .pdf has been removed for the manual describing the rebuilding of the ZF5HP19FL, which should be able to be found by doing a quick internet search, using the phrase "ZF5HP19FL repair manual". If anyone has trouble finding it, please let me know. More than happy to help. JFP in PA....Thanks for the help! I will post any and all progress!

I believe that is manual to the "non FL" transmission. This is the manual I think you were referring to, which is for the 'FL" version, which is what I have. thanks!!!

Thanks! So, are you saying that all I need to do is remove the 9 bolts from the pump front, and it should be able to be "coaxed" out. No hidden bolts or other things need to be removed first?

I had a bearing/seal failure in my 2003 Boxster w/Tiptronic, and need to replace the torque converter and the oil pump. I have removed the transmission from the car and taken off the pan, filter, torque converter, and the control valves. I have also removed all the bolts from front of the oil pump housing. In online videos, they show two plastic tubes that need to be removed, before the pump will pull out. These were on ZF5HP19 transmissions for BMW and other cars. However, the Tiptronic for our cars, Boxsters, is a ZF5HP19FL. A slightly different monster. When I try to pull on the oil pump, to remove it, it doesn't budge. I don't want to go forcing it, without knowing the proper steps to remove it. Does anyone know the proper steps to remove the oil pump?

Hey, this is all a part of owning. 996/997. I like the 996 because it is fairly easy to work on. I have dropped the engine/trans on a few other 996’s that I have owned, and can do it fairly easily and quickly. I think that is about the only way to effectively own a 996/997, ya gotta be able to do the work yourself. That’s why I am heading to Jake Raby’s engine Class.

As planned, completed the replacement of the coil packs and spark plugs. I got the new packs that came with the longer fasteners. It looks like I have a leaking valve cover. When I pulled the car into the driveway, before doing the swap, it was running fine. No CEL it was a warm day. I did the swap anyway. After the swap, I tried to start the car.....dead battery. Arrrrgggg!!! Had to jump it. Started right up. Took it for a spin, and all was great. Not sure if this solved the problem for sure, but will keep updating the post. Also, I keep trying to upload pictures, but when get errors, when I try to upload load pictures. Only some so through.

Images of Cracked Coils from Driver's Side Ok, completed the replacement of the plugs and the coils last night. BTW...who the hell thought it was a good idea to put a muffler bracket right over the spot where the middle coil goes on each side of the engine???? For those of you that are looking to do this, let me make it clear as to what I think you should do to make it easy and most efficient. 1. Remove the rear bumper covers (don't forget to unplug the connector) 2. Remove both rear tires (place on jack stands) 3. Both outer and inner heat shields on both sides 4. Both mufflers 5. Drop the engine down about 1/2" or so. Doing all of this might not be 100% necessary, but whatever time it costs you in doing this, will greatly save you in time, aggravation an skinned knuckles. I got the replacement coils at O'Reilly's auto parts, and they were in a generic type box, but were Beru coils, and were the new design, with the longer bolts. One of the boxes was missing the bolts, so I ran to the hardware store and got a couple of 6mmx40mm bolts to hold the coil down. Worked just fine. The new bolts that came with it were of a different head design. Before I started working on the car, I had to back it into my driveway. It started just fine....no CEL...and no misfires. I wasn't surprised, since it was a warm day and my suspicion is that it is mainly problematic on cold, damp days. Naturally, I went ahead with the project. New coils installed..... Once I buttoned it all back up, I tried to start the car. DEAD BATTERY!!! It had only been sitting a few days. Once I jumped the car, it ran just fine. I am still not 100% sure that the coils were the problem, but even if they weren't, they and the spark plugs needed to be replaced. I need to check the battery and see when it was installed and maybe have it tested to hold a charge. If it is bad, I will replace it. I will update the post periodically, and confirm if I have any more issues or if the problem has subsided for the long haul. Oh...once I got under the car, I confirmed my suspicion, which was that I had a valve cover leak on the passenger side. I can smell oil, when I drive and I notice that I tend to use oil at a semi increases pace. I expect some smell and loss of oil, but it is evident that I have some leakage. This is a replacement engine from Porsche, installed while the PO had it. It suffered some type of catastrophic engine failure. Not sure which one, but it was replaced under the class action lawsuit. I am attending the Raby M96 engine rebuild school, and have pulled engines and transmissions before. Next time I need to change the clutch, I will drop both and do some routine maintenance on the engine, that is easiest done, while it is out of the car.

uSo I took the rear of the car apart (person who designed this should be shot), to access the coils and plugs. So far, have only done bank 1. This is what I found. Look like there are some cracks. Hard to tell if they are fatal cracks or just surface issues. There are more pictures of the cracks, but for some reason, I get errors loading them. These are also also the plugs that I replaced.

Ok..have ordered 6 replacement coil packs, and 6 spark plugs. Should be here in a couple of days. Crazy...called my local Porsche dealership for the spark plugs. First of all, they needed a VIN to tell me what spark plugs that goes into a 2002 996. Then the guy tells me, that it could be one of two DIFFERENT spark plugs, based on my VIN number. Whaaaaaaa?????? I wasn't aware they made two engines for my base 996??? So....once the guy verifies that they have my CORRECT plugs in stock....I could have them for a mere $36.00 EACH!!! I almost fell out of my chair. Nothing like $240 in SPARK PLUGS!!!! Keeping fingers crossed that this is the issue. Will update....... (I can only imagine what blinker fluid costs there!)

iI agree that the coils are a prime suspect. However, I also have to ask the obvious question. What is the likelihood that multiple coils went bad at exactly the same time? If it was one coil, that would be a perfectly acceptable, but three or four? Also, the car was not driven in the rain and the roadway was not wet. I am going to check the battery voltage level, and take it from there. I hate to throw parts at a problem, but I am going to assume that when the engine swap occurred, that they just swapped over everything from one engine to the other, and the coils and plugs, might be the original ones. The paperwork shows only the engine, and not of the maintenance items being replaced.

I am having an intermittent misfire issue with my 996. It started a few months ago, when the battery ran down after not driving it for a few weeks, and I had to jump the car to get it going. After a few miles, I got a CEL and the car started to misfire. Upon arriving at my location, which was just a short distance away, I turned off the engine and went about my business. Upon returning to the car, it ran fine. No CEL and did 65mph all the way home, which was about 20 miles away. All was good, until a couple of weeks ago, when on a slow drive, I got a misfire and the CEL came back on. I made it to a gas station to fill up, expecting it to clear again. This time it did not, and I limped it on home. After a couple of days, I went out to diagnose and checked codes. They were: P0300- PFC 507 – Misfire detected P0301 – PFC 508 – Misfire Cylinder 1 P0305 – PFC 513 – Misfire Cylinder 5 P0303 – PFC 512 – Misfire Cylinder 3 P0304 – PFC 511 – Misfire Cylinder 4 These are on both banks. After a couple of days, I went out, cleared the codes, and the car ran just fine. No CEL and smooth running. I drove it a couple of times, without incident. However, today, I went out to drive the car. Went a short distance…all was fine. When I got back into the car, I once again had misfires and the CEL came on. Checked codes and all I have is: P0300- PFC 507 – Misfire detected P0301 – PFC 508 – Misfire Cylinder 1 The only thing I can think of is that it must either be related to a low voltage battery messing with the computer or somehow related to moisture, since both incidences occurred around having just completed a rain storm. The car was not driven in the rain. This would possibly point to bad coils. I have checked the MAF, but disconnecting the plug, when it was misfiring. No change in idle. Seems strange to have multiple Coils fail at once? But possible. Same with spark plugs. One item of note. This is a replacement engine, replaced by Porsche, due to an engine failure while the PO owned it. The current engine has about 30K miles on it. I am not sure if all the maintenance parts were replaced, such as AOS, coils, plugs, and so on. Any thoughts on what to check to help narrow down the issue, other than just replacing everything or taking it to the repair shop?

Same ECU. Swapping over all the items off the old engine, onto the new engine. The ECU is staying in the car with the same wiring harness. The wiring harness on the engine will be swapped over, as will all the sensors and the throttle body. I don't believe the ECU will be able to tell the difference in engines. Both are 3.4L, same sensors, and same wiring harness. Am I missing something?

I am undertaking a small project. Swapping a bad 3.4L engine out of a '99 Cab, and replacing it with a 3.4L 2001 engine. The main difference between the two, is that the '99 is a manual throttle and the 2001 is an electronic throttle. There might be more, but I am not sure. The Cab is a Tiptronic, and the 2001 engine is out of a 5 speed. I will be removing the clutch and swapping the flex plate. I have taken VERY careful notes, and tons of pictures of the strip down of both engines, step by step. My plan is to replace all the parts on the 2001, with the parts off the '99, including the throttle body, intake, sensors, and fuel injectors. I will also be swapping over the wiring harness, so the 2001 engine has the '99 wiring harness. Hopefully, the DME in the '99 won't know the difference. Is this as straight forward as I think it is, or are there any issues that I should be aware of and address?

Hello all...getting back to this project. I assume that this kit has all the items I need? https://www.amazon.com/Porsche-Boxster-Engine-Timing-Camshaft/dp/B00L0ZOZ0A/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_tr_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8HXYY4HCDRFGAP7RFZ14

Engine is already out of the car.

Long story short, I have a good 3.4 engine, that has an EZ out broke off in one of the heads. Someone tried (unsuccessfully) to remove the exhaust headers, and twisted off a lot of the bolts. In the process of trying to rectifying the situation, they broke off an EZ off in the bolt they were trying to remove, and now we are in a pickle. It is a large EZ out and almost the size of the bolt. To remove the EZ out/bolt, the head needs to come off and mounted in a milling machine. So, I have removed heads off a Ford 460 and rebuilt that engine, but wanted to know what I was getting into as far as trying to remove the heads off of the 3.4. I would love it if someone could break down the process and let me know how difficult it is. The machine shop doesn't want to touch removing the head. They just want the head off of the engine.

Yep. The guy pulling the engine twisted a lot of the bolts off. I have bought the engine and he is willing to refund me the money I spent. My fear is that it is a cracked cylinder or a cracked head. Will an oil analysis tell me much?

I am looking at a replacement engine for my 1999 911. Had an engine failure. Apparently this replacement engine has 51k miles on it. The exhaust headers were removed, and these are the images from the 6 ports. A couple look weird. What would cause this?

2005 997.1 Convertible/ 6 speed 175k miles Silver exterior/Black interior Exterior 8.5/10 Interior 8/10 Top 8 Replacent Transmossion/Clutch recently Well maintained w/records No Accidents California Car Thinking about buying it as a daily driver. What is it worth?

I purchased a VERY nice, 1999 996 Tiptronic Cabriolet , with about 139k miles, as a DD, for $8,000. .Car is pretty much perfect, with the exception of the (you guessed it), REAR VINYL WINDOW. The PO removed the window, because it was faded and cracking. The rest of the top is not bad, but not great. Shows signs of wear and slightly fading. I thought about trying one of those zip in windows that you can got on EBAY, but I haven't heard or seen a post of ANYONE being successful at doing it. The rest of the top is ok...not great. Shows some signs of wear, but for a DD, it is perfectly acceptable. However, I figured for a few hundred dollars more, I can buy a new top. I am pretty handy with the tool kit and have no issues with taking out a transmission and engine, and doing work on them. and those types of projects. Instead of plopping down a couple of grand for a new top and install at a shop, I thought I would tackle the replacement of the top myself. Not that I have an issue with installers making the $1,000 or more to install the top, but I rather enjoy working on my Porsches and learning new things Here are the questions, for those of you that have done such a thing, or have experience in such tasks. HOW DIFFICULT IS IT TO DO? How long did it take you? Any TIPS or Tricks to successfully doing the job? Any special tools required? Any write-ups that you are aware of or videos? (I did see the one for the Boxster, but that doesn't have the headliner and slightly different than 911) If there aren't any write-ups for a 996.1, I might create one, with lots of pictures and explaination. Thanks for any feedback or advice.

The rubber outter piece of the windshield has come lose, and flaps around if I go above about 55mph. The channel that it fits into, has somehow widened and no longer pinches the rubber part hard enough to hold it against the windshield. Can these two pieces be removed and replaced, without removing the windshield? The windshield is perfect. I am just guessing there is no way to remove and replace the same windshield.

I have a Durametric reader. How can I test to see if the post Cat O2 sensor on Bank 2, is the problem or if it is a bad Cat? I am getting signals from all 4 O2 sensors, but not sure how to tell if the Cat is doing its job or not. Thanks!