ma77hewsu11ivan

Thermostat is easy. Did it last week. Same code. Didn’t have to remove a single hose. Minimal coolant loss

On my 09 S w/ Bi-xenon there’s fuses for each headlight behind the cabin dash side panels. Maybe check there?

Comfort settings via the pcm dash menu. Toggle “horn” in the alarm sub menu.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

First check the fuse, then top off and/or flush w/ new steering oil (use a little hand pump to remove old oil from reservoir>add new while turning turning the steering wheel full clock LR>repeat until it looks clean) More detailed instructions around here somewhere. Hope this helps. -Matt

No worries brother. Glad to help.

Things I've done myself - happy to share my experience:

- HPFP 

- Vacuum pump

- solenoid valve

- starter 

- coils

- Plugs

- ox sensors

- oil separator bank 2

- engine mounts 

- trans mount

- both LP fuel pumps, filter, etc

- micro switch rear latch

- HVAC blower motor 

- rotors/brakes/parking brake

- steering fluid change

- brake flush

- transmission oil 

- diff oil : front/rear

- transfer case oil

- all new plastic stone guards/ air dams underneath

Loads of little odds and ends. With the exception of a complete loss of acceleration resulting in a new HPFP (replaced LPFPs on both sides, filter, etc proactively), the starter and oil separator, everything else has been scheduled maintenance items and/or preventative measures.

My 2009 Porsche Cayenne S is hands down the best vehicle I've ever owned. As she nears the 200k mile marker, I'm at 198k, my next projects include:

- alternator

- water pump / thermostat / pulleys / belt

- finally resolving lingering 0421/31 codes (likely new cats as I've tried almost every other workaround)

- rebuild each caliper

There is an ~18in. harness at each wheel that runs up the suspension and clips into another harness behind the wheel wells  along the fender. It feeds the speed sensor and the brake pad indicator - mine happened to be the left rear - part number might be different as I have an 09S.  expensive bugger. Check the free PET PDF via Porsche website for PN or just call a dealer. Most of the wear on mine were where the lower boot slides into the mounting bracket; likely from repeated removal over the years to change pad indicator wires when installing new pads... 

I can't speak to air suspension errors as I have coil overs, but the rest of those warnings are all related to your ABS/speed sensors. Remove and clean them all. Had the same issues. My issues were compounded by a corroded brake pad indicator harness wire (it also feeds the abs/speed indicator). So check all those while you're down there. If cleaning sensors doesn't work, replace. They're cheap and it's an easy fix. Harness is a $150+ flipping wire.

Invest in a durametric scan tool. Can easily be reset through that.  Useful  for a number of things if you're the diy type. Or find an Indy with a piwis or the dealership. But an hour at the dealer pretty much equivalent to the cost of a durametric... Good luck. Let us know how it pans out. -Matt

Side note: if the trans does in fact need an  update , a durametric cannot apply firmware... 

Could be low fluid or simply a trans adaptation. Or worse...

There is a weird front end clicking or thumping sound that usually only occurs after driving slow from a stop.   It only occurs when the accelerator is pressed and disappears when you let off the accelerator.  By accident I found that completely pressing down on the brake pedal will prevent it from happening.  I thought it was brakes but I just replaced pads/rotors & it’s still happening.
Any thoughts?  

Removal of glove box NOT required. It's a 10 minute job swapping out the blower. 1 screw holds the lower dash kick panel. Bam there's the blower housing. 7 screws later there's the blower. Clean it. Replace it. Your call. Easy peasy.


2009 Cayenne S
160,000mi
Chicago

Pretty sure. It's an easy fix.


2009 Cayenne S
160,000mi
Chicago

Replaced that as well hoping it'd solve the problem. No bueno. However, it needed replacing regardless as i was getting tired of tapping the pedal back up with my foot to turn off the red brake warning.

If the sound comes from the foot pedal assembly could it be related to the mini Gas strut there? 

So, the foot pedal assembly of my parking brake pops/snaps loudly every time I use it. The brake holds. But clearly something is not right. The popping sound emanates from the foot pedal assembly. Tried everything I can think of to remedy the issue: new parking brake shoes and hardware, calibrating the tension screw in the rear rotors... Nada. Anyone ever deal with this before or have any ideas? Thanks, Matt

2009 Cayenne S

160,000mi

Chicago

do you have built in radar detector? my issue was a loose screw under the instrument cluster cover in the dash lazily left by installer. Thing rolled around in there for a couple years before I finally figured it out. Drove me nuts.


2009 Cayenne S
160,000mi
Chicago

Killer! I’ll check mine tomorrow. I dealt with that steering play for over a year foolishly half-trusting the dealer diagnosis of bad rack. Indy claimed it was column... 1 loose bolt.


2009 Cayenne S
160,000mi
Chicago

No pics, but it's pretty easy to spot. A little tricky to reach. From underneath the vehicle's driver's side, with the trans shield removed, you can see where the column attaches to the steering gear by a single E14 torx (M10x35). By turning the wheel slightly to the passenger side I was able to reach the bolt with an extended socket wrench. If you pull up the parts diagram from the free PET pdf you'll see what I'm talking about. PMing you now.


2009 Cayenne S
160,000mi
Chicago

Might find some answers here? Control model and motor need to be compatible. Hopefully it's ok to link to rennlist... https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/292451-offical-name-for-clunk-is-thump-long-post.html


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Check to make sure they're not aftermarket LEDs, are the proper wattage, etc. This might help? https://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/31966-the-saga-of-the-left-cornering-light-and-the-solution/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When entering the vehicle after it's been sitting for a time, do you hear the fuel pumps prime when you open the drivers door?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You have all the pieces. Time to solve the puzzle. I'd start with a pressure test and flow rate to make sure your LP pumps are getting enough fuel where it needs to go. If the pumps are original, you'll want to replace both along with fuel pressure regulator and filter regardless as the originals WILL fail, but that's a bit pricey... Could be just a dirty throttle body, a failing FPR, a semi-clogged fuel filter, injectors, coils, plugs, crappy gas, weak battery, wire weirdness...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

More or less just jiggled it up and down a bit as I cleaned the dash, getting in and around the edges of the switch as best I could.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The actual value doesn't read 40. It reads 40.0k Again, what happens when you drive it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks fine. Calling for and getting 40.0k mbar What happens when you go for throttle-up?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes. It's my understanding you should also perform a flow rate test on each pump. Either way, if they're original, they're likely on their last leg. Also, the fuel filter is likely nearing EOL along with the FPR (if all are original). Replacing all of the above sans the HPFP allowed reduced driveability (yes, not smart) during the week until my HPFP arrived... Oil change immediately after replacing HPFP, reset throttle adaptation, etc...