ma77hewsu11ivan

40bar at idle. Answered this is one of your other posts asking roughly the same questions about your situation :) It's 99% your HPFP. It sucks. Just went through this entire ordeal in March. Like my grandpa used to say- Getting the answer I want to hear won't change the problem or the solution... - Matt


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Should call for and receive 40mb at idle. Mine would sometimes get that, I'd think GREAT then go for throttle up and it'd bog down... Replacing the entire LPFP system that was 8 yrs old helped quite a bit and was absolutely needed, but ultimately it was the dreaded HPFP. Call Porsche and see if they'll help you. They sent me a $500 voucher simply for asking. Rebuilt units (new really) can be found from dealers for around $800usd. Installed it myself. Been running fine since. Future prevention measures: refill my fuel tank now at 1/4 or higher vs letting it run until the light comes on and changing oil more often (5k-ish) with a quality oil (I use Amsoil).


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Yes. Very rough idle at cold starts.


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No CELs initially. First symptom: random long starts. Second: smell of burnt plastic. Third: more consistent longer starts. Then: total failure at highway speed. Scared the heck out of me. Nursed it home. Diagnosed left fuel pump (primary) bad, swapped it out. Improvement. Then fuel filter. More improvement. Then right pump & FPR. Better still; all the while dreading the ultimate reality that my HPFP was also bad. Finally swapped out a rebuilt Porsche HPFP (thing was actually new) and talked PCNA into helping me out. They sent a $500 voucher. Why? Because I asked nicely. Also my car previously had the service campaign for the HPFP and the unit I pulled off was the newest revision so I'm likely now on at least my 4th HPFP in 158k miles.

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Check if one of your fan speed switches on the console is sticking. Mine was stuck in the down position and did the opposite of what you described. Quick cleaning and all better... Hope this helps. - Matt

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Ended up ultimately being my high pressure fuel pump. Decided to replace my entire fuel system + HPFP. Not a bad DIY. Moderately expensive. Tight spaces to work. 

Thank you!


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SOLVED
Just wanted to inform anyone having issues with play in their steering that my problem was solved by simply tightening the etorx bolt that attaches the steering shaft to the rack. Was quite loose. Easily accessible from underneath the car. Couple turns of the extended socket wrench with an e14 torx and she’s good as new.




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Hi, wondering if anyone in the Chicago area has access to a PIWIS? If so can I please pay you to check out my driver's side door? Door was replaced by previous owner. Per motor werks: drivers side door module needs to be activated (so my mirror and courtesy lights function) MW wants $250. F that. Thank you in advance! - Matt in Barrington (2009 Cayenne S)

Was the update on the map DVDs?


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That's awesome! Feels good doesn't it. Just did my trans fluid week before last. Plugs week before that.

Side note - been dealing with slop in my steering gear. You guys ever deal with that before on a ZF rack? Center play/wiggle left and right about 2 degrees. Drives me nuts. Any idea if I can simply adjust the yoke at the rotary valve?

2009 Cayenne S

Sure - I went through any and every connection under there. Radio, nav, lights. Pulled/unscrewed each, sanded with light grit sandpaper, sprayed with electrical cleaner and reattached. This included any kind of plug attachment.


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Lewis regarding the taillight, did you remove EVERY connection under the spoiler, clean with abrasive and reseat/reconnect including the earths? That finally did the trick for me...


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Tech at Porsche here in Chicago said they usually reflash there dme, adapt throttle and fuel trim. Said it'd be an hour ($250). Thankfully I didn't have any issues. Maybe it's just your dme needing an update? I still might get mine flashed. Just hit a 150k miles and notice my ox sensors are overly sensitive...


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I hope your feeling is right. I already replaced the regulator and the filter so just the pumps and the L fitting are needed, $430 before shipping. I've already been in there so I'm familiar and the Pelican write up is pretty good but if I run into problems I'll give a shout.

The latest. This dealer has had it since last Wednesday, called today to say that the tech thinks it is the low pressure pumps in the tank. Well those haven't been replaced yet but tested fine previously. So off to replace another set of parts. Good news is the dealer has offered to match the prices I'm getting at the other dealer in NC. I guess I'm busy for a bit. He quoted $2900 to do the pumps, I declined. Indy quoted $1775, a lot better but still.... I can do it. 

Congrats, glad it fixed it. I'm taking out the old (new) pump and exchanging for a new one tomorrow. Hopefully that will fix it. Good luck on the trans, I just can't quite get comfortable with the wheels spinning on jackstands while I'm under it, brake jobs on this car are as easy as I have encountered, especially if you don't have to replace the rotors.

Interesting. I put a -GX rebuild in today and the pulled out a -07... How often are these things going bad?? That -07 couldn't have been more than 3 years old! Also interesting is that the failed unit had an 'expiration' date of 2020...? So all in, I replaced both LP pumps, filter and regulator and the HP pump and stopper. And changed the oil. It was a fun DIY. I learned a lot. Car runs normally again. Joy. Next up, trans fluid and filter followed shortly thereafter by a full brake job.


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INFORMATION:
- If it is not possible to drive at the specified speeds, the adaptation ranges 1 and 2 can also be achieved by increasing the engine load relative to the
specified speed. A defined fuel throughput must be achieved for the adaptation to be completed.- The specified time stipulation of 15 sec. is cumulative, i.e. the time may also be broken down into 5 + 5 + 5 seconds, for example. 6. Fuel high-pressure adaptation range 1 must be reached: gradually approach the speed range of 60 - 85 km/h (40 - 55 mph) and maintain this for at least 15 sec. The Tester indicates when the value changes upwards or downwards by 1.00. >> This completes the adaptation of range 1. INFORMATION:
- If it is not possible to drive at the specified speeds, the adaptation ranges 1 and 2 can also be achieved by increasing the engine load relative to the
specified speed. A defined fuel throughput must be achieved for the adaptation to be completed. - The specified time stipulation of 15 sec. is cumulative, i.e. the time may also be broken down into 5 + 5 + 5 seconds, for example. 7. Fuel high-pressure adaptation range 2 must be completed: gradually approach the speed range of 120 - 140 km/h (75 - 90 mph) and maintain this for at least 15 sec. The Tester indicates when the value changes upwards or downwards by 1.00. >> This completes the adaptation of range 2. 8. Fuel high-pressure adaptation of range 3, 4, 5 These ranges do not need to be achieved for the adaptation drive. 8.1. Range 3 requires constant driving for 15 sec. in the speed range of 210 - 220 km/h (130 - 140 mph). >> Not required for the adaptation drive.
8.2. Range 4 requires multiple full-load acceleration, each time for approx. 10 sec. at an engine speed of more than 4000 rpm. >> Not required for the adaptation drive. 8.3. Range 5 is only for V8 turbo engines. Multiple full-load acceleration, each time for approx. 10 sec. at an engine speed of more than 5000 rpm. >> Not required for the adaptation drive. 9. Once ranges 1 and 2 have been adapted, the values must be between 0.75 and 1.25. If the values are less than 0.75 or greater than 1.25, a fault is recorded.


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Don't think my durametric can perform an engine torque loss adaptation. Throttle adaptation, yes.


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FYI - Doing my HPFP tomorrow morning. Talked to Porsche today. They recommend throttle adaptation and engine torque loss adaptation after hpfp replacement. Function found under DME using PIWIS tester.



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I feel your pain. My guess is the regulator and both low pressure pumps are on their last legs. Did you do a flow test on your low pressure system?


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Mine is a 2006 ctt so I don't have the hpfp. 
The set up of the hpfp is very similar to my 2013 Golf R (sold) I rebuilt the Hitachi hpfp with auto tech internals to increase pump pressure to match the APR stage 2+ tune and mods. The earlier engine had a very weak and soft cam lobe which flatten and caused lean burn and low pressure also the cam follower would wear a hole in it and smash everything up. Lucky the 2013 Golf R engine had revised cam and as long as you checked and replaced the cam follower every 30-40,000 km it was bullet proof with good oil quality and regular changes. 
 
The porsche setup is a bit different using a clutch and stopper which can break. 
 
Does anyone do a refurb/exchange rebuilt unit of the hpfp? I'm sure its very similar to vag hpfp used in millions of applications across the range since 2005 or even before. I bet someone does.
Edit: just found this, suncoast do .......
https://dorkiphus.net/porsche/showthread.php

From another member: 

Wow that is exceptional. I didn't even give it a thought because of age and miles. Good for you. You'll be up and running before you know it. Not sure if you can do it or how the voucher works but I have been getting genuine Porsche parts from a dealer in North Carolina, Paramount. Their prices beat everyone and I mean EVERYONE and they are vin # driven, have a Porsche guy check compatibility and are generally good to work with. You ought to give them a look, https://store.paramountauto.com/auto-parts/porsche