rattles

Thanks for the replies.

I have searched the forum for details but no luck, does anyone know what needs to be done to carry out the 2 yearly Airbag system check mentioned in the service book?

Thanks

Glenn

Has anyone found a fix for the 996 flasher relay, my 1999 996 has always had a problem in that the relay is inaudible in normal driving. I have a degree of hearing loss but friends who have good hearing also have a problem hearing it in normal driving conditions. Early 996's also have very dim direction arrows and a selector mechanism that often does not self cancel.

I have tried a new relay using a different brand to the factory fitted unit but it made no difference. This week I bought a simple 12 volt buzzer and tried wiring it into the relay circuit.

Edited November 15th.

After a couple of unsuccessful attempts I figured out how to make it work. I soldered the positive wire from the buzzer to the post marked 49 and the negative wire to post 49c. Works well, it was a bit too loud so I covered the outlet hole on the buzzer with a small adhesive patch with a smaller hole punched into it. 

Thanks Flanders but there is no torx slot on the Lemforder drop link bolt end or on the 996 suspension that could be used to prevent rotation, I have a slim open end spanner that will hold the nut at the seal end of the drop link so will just use that. 

I have the new sway bar drop link but cant work out what image 2 in the attached photo means, does anyone have an answer, thanks.

Thanks for the info. much appreciated.

I have searched for info. but can't find the specific details I need. I am replacing the front swaybar droplinks on my 1999 996 C2, I plan to use the standard Lemforder drop links from Pelican Parts. Is there any preload setting for these. To remove them I raised the car on one side then raised the suspension so that it was in a similar position to what it would be when the wheel was on and on the ground. It was easy to remove the droplink when i did that, I am assuming that if I do the same when fitting the new part the preload if any will be correct. 

I'd appreciate any comments from people who have done this replacement.

Thanks.

Thanks again for all of the replies.

Thanks for the quick replies and detailed information, I will be visiting the US in July so will do some shopping then. Where would the best place be to buy either the Durametric or the Bluetooth obd2 connector.

I have searched for this topic but cant find anything current, I have a 996 C2 1999 and would like to buy an OBD2 scanner that has the correct connections for my car. Would appreciate any suggestions for current models that work well but that wont break the bank.

Thanks,

Glenn

Come on guys, let's see your beautiful summer car...;-)

Not summer here, Falls Creek,Victoria, Australia.

Check the alignment of your rear wheels and also check for wear on the inside of the rear tyres, I had a whine in my car at those speeds and that is what it turned out to be. Fixing the alignment wont stop the noise though if the rear tyres are already cupped.

Thanks for the suggestions, second option looks good and they will ship to Australia.

After a weeks back country driving where two of our group had flat tires I want to get a good quality mini compressor, my 996 did not come with one, does anyone have any suggestions as to which after market units are good quality. Most US parts suppliers now ship to Australia so I would look to buy one from the US. Anyone tried the ones on offer from Sears?

Thanks.

Thanks for all the feedback. I finally got the engine back and I did a inventory the best I could using exploded views of the engine. Seems I did get everything back, atleast the major parts. I got a few bags of bolts, nuts, and screws . . . I'll measure and check every screw and thread so I know exactly what I have. I've been given a few ideas, EBS in Reno was recommeneded a few times so I'll give them a call. I'll also checkk out Vision Motorsports but you're the first to recommend them.

PMKAZZ - Has Vision rebuilt an engine for you?

Thanks again.

This may help if you are still trying to identify some parts http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/996-99-05/porsche_911_parts.php

I just found this website http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/996-99-05/porsche_911_parts.php if you scroll down you will see an exploded view of the roof, part number 8 looks as though it fits under the roof behind the sunroof, maybe that is the part that the mechanic was refering too. Sorry I cant be more specific but I didn't see the car while they were working on it.

I had a similar problem with my 99 c2, the roof lining came out 5 times but eventually the noise was eliminated, the work was done by Porsche Australia, I am not sure what they did to fix it, I dont think they really knew either but it has been ok now for 5 years. This post from 2007 may help you to eliminate some of the possible causes.

They did tell me that they found that some of the glue which is used between the roof panels had cracked, I included a photo on that post that shows an example of the glue where its used under the hood. The mechanic told me that it is also used in the roof.

Good luck.

Have there been any details from LN or people who have had the LN bearing fitted and have now reached 50,000 miles on it. I had mine done a year ago and wont reach 50K for a while yet but it would be interesting to know how they are performing towards the end of their suggested life span.

I had exactly the same problem with my 99 c2, it turned out to be the real wheel alignment. It was incorrect from the factory. The dealer could not find the problem but a very good independant workshop took it for a drive at around 20,000kms, immediately said it was the rear wheel alignment.

After adjustment the noise dropped a lot but by then the tyres had been ''cupped'' on the inner edges to the point they needed replacement, the new tyres cured the noise problem completely. From memory the wheels were toeing out around 3mm

James, Not sure if you found this article in the DIY section before you did the oil change, if not it's good to keep on file for next time.

Lots of good info. in that section, another good DIY job is to clean the front radiators, it's amazing how much stuff gets wedged in there.

Have a look here

These were the ones in the rear left guard [fender] on my car, they were quite loose, I just pushed them back into the space, not sure how they are held in but they seemed to click into place. That was 6 years ago, no noise since then. If you hit the lower section of bodwork in that area with your hand you may be able to duplicate the rattle if that's where it's coming from.

I also had a similar noise and it was as 100plus suggests, in my car it was the heat shields, very easy no cost fix for mine.

Check your parking brakes or heat shields. I have the exact same rattle and it was coming from my parking brake.

Cheers

This is a very simple modification but it works well, I left the CD holders in place, bought a length of 90 degree plastic moulding from the local hardware shop, added some velcro and some door draft tape and it slips in between the CD shelf and the radio housing above. Some velcro on the back of my GPS and thats it. If you want more photos of the bracket let me know.

I have a 2004 C4S Cab that I'm installing a Dension Gateway in to hook up my iPod, as the Becker CDR23 completely stinks at playing actual CDs on the roads I drive on, constantly skipping.

The question is: this makes the CD-tray in the center console pretty redundant. I can apparently get a shelf-like thing (pretty much like the shelf below it, but a slightly different shape) to fit that spot, but does anyone have any better ideas? Having two little half-height shelves, one above the other, seems a bit odd.

I can say with certainty, however, that I'm not going to the trouble to move the HVAC console down there from its place above.