BufordTJustice

Hi. The level on the dipstick is very, very slightly above the maximum mark.  The oil they put in is Motul 5-40w. So you're saying  the oil level sensor is probably ok. But the oil pressure sensor should be changed out.
By the way, thanks for getting back to me so quickly. This community is very impressive in the short time I've joined. I've gotten info on how to access the serial #  for my radio without removing it from the dash and the code! Thanks again. A donation will be next.

I’m going to tackle my water pump, coolant expansion tank and coolant hoses and so also decided to replace the AOS.  I know the AOS has several hoses attached to it. Not sure if these are coolant , oil and vacuum hoses. Just want to replace everything that is attached because I’m sure these parts are also old and brittle. 

 

Does anyone know which parts to replace and would replacing these be difficult?  Any parts names and or numbers along with any tips would be great. I’m feeling a bit intimidated by the AOS procedure but while I have everything apart want to replace everything that could fail later because I don’t want to do this again for a long time. 

 

Car ar is a 1999 C4 manual. 

Perfect, thanks - I really appreciate your help.
 
I will update once the new parts are in place and oil system tested.

Thanks, Buford...  Best handle yet.[emoji41]

Moving to synthetic media in the filter affords a significant increase in flow capability. So, Fram Ultra, Royal Purple, Purolator BOSS, Amsoil EaO, Napa Platinum, & Wix XP provide full synthetic glass-fiber media that will greatly out flow the std cellulose media of the Napa Gold, Mobil-1, Bosch Distance Plus, Puro PureOne, K&N, etc. Just FYI.

Great thread on this mod, btw.

As a data point, I'm currently running a Bosch D+ on my LN screw on adapter and can report back on the condition of the media if you want (it's your thread).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree with Jeff.

Also, if metal byproducts are that much of an issue, you really need to step up to an LN screw-on filter adapter (with a quality screw on filter like a Napa Platinum, Fram Ultra, Royal Purple, etc) and a full-circle FilterMag setup (two filter mags) along with very short oil change intervals.

However, I'm still kinda alarmed. What did you find was causing the metal to be present in the oil?

Today I removed the spark plugs. Some oil with a trace of water came out of bank 1, but bank 2 was dry. The primary O2 sensors were removed the to drain oil and water from the exhaust. I sprayed in fogging oil into the cylinders until it flowed back out. Next I removed the throttle body and T, then sprayed fogging oil in both sides of the plenum. The engine turned easily and smoothly by hand. I'm not comfortable powering up the car yet (I need to check all electronics for flood damage), so I jumped the starter with a battery pack. At first, it turned so smoothly and quietly that I though the solenoid wasn't engaged. To get the oil flowing, I did plenty of on and off turns for about 20 minutes.

I'm going to work on flushing oil next. A good marine oil was recommended for initial treatment. After I verify there is clean oil coming out when I drain it,  I'll close it all back up, install the new immobilizer box & DME, check the fuel (probably drain and refuel) and try a run. There's still a long way to go before knowing if it's going to be a good engine

Also consider using StaBil 360 Marine. It has about 4 times the dosage of water remover as the std 360. I would treat the tank heavily.

Do you have an inspection camera you can shove into the chambers? Harbor freight even has them now.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 
Same problem, the stiffer the mount, the more the vibration.

 
Congratulations, you have just discovered why these mounts are not for the street:eek:.  If you really want to get the maximum detrimental effect of these things, you should have added a lightweight single mass flywheel.  We had a customer come in with complaints about noise and vibrations in a 996 with the semi solid mounts and lightweight flywheel already installed, and when I test drove the car it vibrated so bad I couldn't see where I was going just going down the road.  And prolonged performance driving use of them can also weaken or crack the engine cases, which is why the RS and RSR factory race cars still carry rubber mounts.
 
Not all aftermarket "performance" ideas are good ones.............

 
While just about everyone selling headers and exhaust systems make large HP improvement claims, in reality they are typically very small. if any improvement at all, when tested on the dyno.  The exhaust systems the factory used are actually pretty good all by themselves, and drone free which is more than many aftermarket systems can claim, so reusing your stock mufflers is not a bad idea.  Another option is picking up used cats off a wreck; we have done that for several customers with good results.

You are always safe to put Porsche N-spec tires on your Porsche.
If you got to a site like Tirerack.com - put your car year and model into their system it will show you the recommended tires including Porsche N-spec tires.

Replacement strut top plate assembly came in from Pelican two days early. YES!

The top stud pressed out with a vice without issue. Now for some sleeve retaining compound and it goes back in.

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

Drilled out from the top, starting with a small pilot bit. Ended with an 8mm drift punch that knocked the rest of it out of the bottom.

If the new stud is super difficult to remove from the new top plate assembly, I'll grab some grade-8 M8 bolts with a double stack of heat treated washers to use on the bottom, paired with the factory nut on the top.

VOY-LUH.

Thank you to everybody who had posted thus far. I greatly appreciate your input and all of it was taken into consideration, I assure you.

I'll post final pictures when I get the bolt/stud reinstalled.

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

Here is the part on order with the studs.

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

Noted and thank you. I'm going to leave the others at 30 until the suspension gets redone as the troubled nut seemed wonky from the start.

Regardless, thank you for the correct values.

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

Okay, I had a very light rattle from the left front that I noticed only after discarding my old, poorly worn Pirelli Pzero Assimetrico tires in favor of new Michelin Pilot super Sport tires.

I went to check torque on the front strut top plate bolts. I set my calibrated torque wrench to 30 foot pounds (I know the spec is 35). All 3 nuts on the front passenger strut were fine and didn't move. The rear two nuts on the driver side were also tight.

The front most nut on the driver's side KEPT TURNING. It felt as if it was only hand tight as it didn't provide enough resistance to allow the ratchet mechanism to function at all.

I immediately stopped and tried to thread it by hand, but no dice. Another 1/4 turn and no building of resistance. Another 1/4 turn and still no additional resistance. The third 1/4 turn and the resistance DROPS.

It was at this point that I realized I was not merely compressing the rubber gasket between the top plate and the chassis, but that the stud was broken.

I removed the deep well socket and torque wench to observe that the stud was now canted. Dammit. Fears confirmed.

I can only guess that the nut was not tight and the out of balance front tires vibrated and weakened the stud through minute movement. But guess is all I can do.

So, I would love to hear that I don't have to disassemble the entire front driver's side suspension to extract that stud (the bottom of which is easily visible and accessible through the wheel well).

Is there a way to knock that stud out and then thread the new one up from the bottom without removing the strut?

I have a new nut and strut top plate on order from Pelican. The strut top plate has the three studs, which it appears one could either be pressed or threaded out and transferred to the plate in the vehicle and re-torqued.

I haven't even sat in the vehicle since this happened, much less driven it. So, I think no movement has occurred.

Help appreciated. All experience solicited.

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

Just to play devil's advocate here, try disconnecting the DOF feed line and plugging it.  I'll bet the tapping sound goes away......................

Then you're going to want to have a look at the OP sensor, and then the oil pump mechanism itself.

It's still possible that you may need more viscosity. Might want to look at Mobil-1 5w-50. It got up to 98 in the shade here in Orlando today and I can only imagine what another 10 degrees F would do to oil temps and film thickness. The fact that the issue disappears at anything but those high temps is a clue.

In fact, at 108 degrees, you could likely use Mobil-1 15w-50 and not get variocam errors! Yikes!

EDIT: I just read that you've got 5w-40 in the car now. Is the LM oil you're using A40 rated?

Mobil revised their 0w-40 formulation to make it even thinner than before (it starts at BARELY a 40-weight oil) and, if your temps are in the elevated range, this means you're essentially running a Xw-30 oil. The Mobil has also shown to sheer (lose viscosity) quickly. Add in some fuel dilution, and you could be rocking a 30-weight oil in terms of viscosity and not even know it.

How many miles on the oil in the crankcase? Lots of short trips?

Also, you may want to look at the updated (and backspec'd) oil pressure regulating spring and valve.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/0896/POR_0896_ENGOIL_pg5.htm#item14

Valve: 997-107-125-01-M100

Spring: 996-107-127-53-M100

If you haven't done this already, I recommend it. I gained about 1/4 BAR of oil pressure simply from doing the upgrade...and the parts are CHEAP. Easy to do while changing your oil, too.

 
Try 5464
 

CDR-220

TYPE: 4462
Radio SN: X5020110

Thanks in advance.

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

I ended up cutting the leads to the resistor and butt-crimping/heat shrinking/electrical taping/zip tying them in place. Didn't feel like fishing the entire harness out of there when it worked fine according to my fluke multimeter.

Picture is before wires have been dressed and secured.

And, VOY-LUH, the fan works on low now!!!! :)

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

Many thanks to you all for your input.

 

The filter is Porsche OEM.

 

Today at 82 degrees F, and after the car had sat for a couple of days, I started it up and let it idle till it reached Norm op temp.

I did not time it but it was probably 8 minutes or so.

 

Till it reached op temp I did hear some ticking noise, but I guess I would not consider it particular loud, sort of VW Beetle sounding that I've heard in the past.  It did not seem as loud as the past time or two

 

At op temp that went away and all sounded fine.

 

Remembering it's a 15 year old car with 54K maybe I am just being too sensitive to noises.  It's our first flat six car so may have to just get us to it.  Who knows???  haha

 

Again, thanks for the input.

 

bj

 

 

Mine makes zero ticking at just under 49k miles (99 C2 Cab). Granted, the 0w-40 Pennzoil Platinum Euro I have in there has only been in about 1k miles, but the 6k old Mobil 1 0w-40 that got drained out didn't allow any ticking, either. Zero as in none, even if you put your head right under the cylinder heads. Even after sitting for two weeks. Porsche OEM filter until next change, when I will install my LN filter adapter.

I made my comment about the anti drain back valve because I thought you were using an LN screw on filter adapter.

I agree that a little noise from the hydraulic lash adjusters is not a big deal, but I'm a fan of eliminating noses like that if I can. Especially if they're occurring at over 80F ambient temp.

Some ticking at 50F or colder I wouldn't bat an eyelash at.

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

I decided, after the part was delayed by several days, to remove the bumper and clean the radiators as well.

I do not regret cleaning the rads. Even though it had been done before by a previous owner, and this had only ever been a South Florida car before me, it still needed it.

Thanks again, JFP, for the good info.

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk