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martinkm

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About martinkm

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  • Present cars
    2002 996 targa
  1. There are 3 pressure switches in the pneumatic lift system on the GT3. 997 341 964 90 - pressure switch until pump 997 341 967 90 - pressure switch from pump 997 341 963 90 - pressure switch One of these pressure switches registers when the pressure in the shock absorbers has reached 13 bar, and causes the LIFT indication to appear on the display. Until this pressure switch has activated, LIFT won't appear and pushing the button won't cause the car to lower. I believe this is the pressure switch that causes the failures described above - I'm just not sure which of the above part numbers is the correct one to replace. Anyone know? Ken
  2. One follow-on to my first post - I just read the topic of another poster who's car jumped time and which couldn't be diagnosed because he has an aftermarket stereo. I have the Harmon Kardon TrafficPro radio that looks exactly like the Porsche CD23(?) in my car - would that explain why they couldn't read the code? If they pull the radio, would the code still be readable? Thanks again, Ken
  3. Hi I have a 2002 targa with 99,500 miles. (500 miles until the extended warranty runs out). Last week I'd run out for a sandwich at lunch - took the scenic route so the car as nice and warm when I parked it. Car has run perfect entire time I've owned it except for a weird episode last week where I heard what sounded like pinging at 3000 rpm. I got off the gas and it stopped and I couldn't recreated it. Anyway, came out of sandwich shop 20-25 minutes later, start car and begin backing out when engine quits with what sounded like a bang/shudder. I was confused what happened as I'm not one to stall the car, and actually got out to see if I'd hit or run over something. Not finding anything, got back in and tried to start; the car turns over fine and would catch briefly but failed to run. very, very rough sounding, for a split second it would run, sounded a little like marbles in the engine. (light had not gone off for me at this point as I had not read all these reports on IMS failures). Temp. of engine at this point was still 180 deg. let car sit for 10 minutes, same problem. Called a tow truck (first time in about 15 years) and waited over an hour. tow truck driver made me try it again - same result. brief catch, ultra rough run for a second or two at 500 rpm, then dies. towed the car to the dealer that works on it - explained the story (5pm now) get the rental car and go home. Congratulating myself for having bought the extended warranty and having the good fortune to have this problem 500 miles this side of the end of it). Get a call the next morning, the service tech says he has good news and bad news. Good news is that the car starts and runs normally. The bad news is that the car has thrown no codes and they have no idea why it stranded me. Sounds like all bad news to me. I asked him if they checked codes before starting it, and he claimed he didn't know, but the way he said it makes me think they did start it before checking. Will the Porsche clear a code if something wrong 'goes away'? I know the mercedes will clear some codes if they don't recur after 3 good starts. The other factor that doesn't seem like it should have any bearing is that I'm still running my original clutch. The tech said that he thought that the car might have 'slipped timing' and then corrected itself?? how is that possible in a car with a timing chain? they are replacing the clutch and going to do a number of test drives next week. I asked then specifically to warm the car and then let it sit for 25 minutes to see if that has any effect. I REALLY don't want to have this engine grenade at 100,005 miles. ANY suggestions for a better diagnosis now or means to recreate this problem??? Many thanks, Ken
  4. Anyone out there had a targa where the rear hatch wouldn't release? I know there is an interlock that prevents it from opening when the top is open, but I've opened and closed the targa top to confirm that's not the problem... would the durametric software tell me what is going on? I need to get some boxes out of there!!! ;-) thanks!
  5. Hi Loren - thanks for all the help you provide here. It is a US car, and I saw two switches on the pedal. The one I replaced is normally pressed by the break pedal and is released when the pedal is pressed. the second switch to the side doesn't appear to be pressed until the brake pedal is depressed a very long way. I asked the parts guy for the "brake switch activation switch" - the bag has part number 996 613 113 01 and has 4 leads. what would I short to test with a jumper wire? thanks again! Ken ahh- I think I might have gotten turned around and swapped the switch and the clutch... sorry to waste your time. thanks again, Ken
  6. Hi Loren - thanks for all the help you provide here. It is a US car, and I saw two switches on the pedal. The one I replaced is normally pressed by the break pedal and is released when the pedal is pressed. the second switch to the side doesn't appear to be pressed until the brake pedal is depressed a very long way. I asked the parts guy for the "brake switch activation switch" - the bag has part number 996 613 113 01 and has 4 leads. what would I short to test with a jumper wire? thanks again! Ken
  7. Hi I have a 2002 Targa 996 manual transmission with 47K miles. A month or so ago I washed the car and then had to leave it for a long weekend. The first time I drove the car I had ABS/PSM lights on after driving. I turned off the car, restarted and didn't see the codes again until the next day. The next day it happened again, but restarting only cleared the codes temporarily. After awhile I discovered that the codes would appear after releasing the brake pedal after it had been held for at least 2 seconds. After reviewing these forums I checked my brakes and realized that my brake lights were only flashing briefly when I hit the brakes. I swapped out the brake activation switch tonight and the problem remains! What is most strange is that the break light comes on if I press the break pedal lightly - i.e. the pedal just comes off the switch. If I press more firmly, the break light goes out again! This makes me think there must be another switch somewhere in the break circuit? I tried to read out the codes with an unit I rented at Autozone but it said everything was OK so I think I need a more sophisticated unit. I know I need the codes to really get good feedback but was hoping someone could shed some light on this weird brake light issue. thanks, Ken
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