alstarz88

My car wasn't originally 7.8 I have moved and adjusted all the wiring following tholyoaks posts with the exception of the air con I have got the appropriate climate panel now but it needs some of the pin outs moving around. I also expect to find a couple of other things won't work quite right and the wiring diagram would really help

Ross

I have the 3rd dme for the 986 cars 

and my climate panel ends in 10 

the dme is 996.618.604.00 it is a different engine than what's supposed to be in the car but it is the last of the 986 3.2 engines. 

Do you know if that wiring diagram is in it it says selected wiring schematics on the listing on amazon and it is a bit expensive in the U.K. At £100 for it not to be. 

Hi can someone point me in the direction of a wiring diagram for the last revision of 986 2003-2004 cars I.e dme 7.8 cars. If someone has the equivalent 996 wiring diagram I probably use that as well 

thanks

Ross 

ECU was disconnected whilst I was testing the voltage thought that would prevent airbags deploying

No airbags have been deployed the car has not been in an accident

Also replaced airbag ECU and get the same faults

Seat belts were from a brakers so its possible although i would hope they would know about that issue 

Is the ignition circuit the sensors near the door shuts if so I have tested the wire coming from them to the ecu (pin 20/21) and I am receiving 5.5V  which would lead me to believe it is getting power. 

fault codes are 31,28,24,22

Hi

I have a 2002 spec Porsche boxster S and I have my airbag light on  I took it to an independent geman car specialists to turn the light off as I suspected it was to do with some work I was doing on steering wheel however there appears to be codes for drivers and passengers airbags these are showing an open circuit and return once cleared.

I have checked all wires to the airbag ecu from side airbags and sensors for being grounded but no luck I find it a coincidence that both sides would go at the same time.

I have ordered a replacement ecu with correct number of airbags for my car to see if it is the ecu.

When checking the wiring for the airbags I noticed that the airbags circuits are bridged at the door connectors as well as in the connector for the ecu. Is this normal

There appears to be only the orange wire to the ecu that connects the two side airbag sensors together does anyone know what this does as this seems to be the only common link between both sides

Thanks for reading

HI

I have a boxster thast I have upgraded the engine and all rear suspension components and a 6 speed box everything is working fine except for a growling noise on deceleration only when left in gear i.e. using the engine to break and most noticeable in 1st 2nd and at higher revs 4k+ to replicate the noise.

I have checked engine mount and whilst mine had split I have replaced it but has not had a effect

Anyone got any ideas.

P.S the gearbox oil i used was 75w90 semi synthetic alot of web searches suggest using MT-90 but i am not convinced the oil can make that much difference

turned out to be faulty box

Hi,

I have recently upgraded my car to a 6 speed box from a 5 speed one and I am having trouble selecting reverse i can get it in but it is not easy once it is in it goes back in and out easily anyone got any ideas.

I have changed:

Box

Clutch

Selector cables

Regards

Ross

possibly found the problem.

I read a post about crushed oil filters and seem to remember when i removed the oil filter when i re built the engine it was twisted. (i assumed this to be normal) I have taken the oil filter off and found it to be twisted again I have removed this and installed the oil filter pot without a filter fired it up and everything ran normally. shut the car down as didn't want to run long without a filter.

checked the oprv no issues there although it could have been stuck.

the only other thing i changed before the engine failed first was i had a blow in my exhaust manifolds so i used exhaust putty on the front and back of the metal gasket to aid the seal

Hi

I have just finished an engine rebuild after the engine had a melt down however when i ran the car up for the first time the rattles that I expected for the first few seconds after starting up did not go away after a few minutes. Also the oil warning light (the red one) came on so I shut the engine down immediately.

the engine was rebuilt after shells melted and sent crap all around the engine and warped my con rods.

what I have done:

Engine completely disassembled and steam cleaned

New Shells and main bearing shells

New piston oil squirters

Crank Polished and checked for straightness

New Con Rods balanced and matched to less than a gram

New chain guides due to damage

New hydraulic lifters

New oil filter and of course oil.

Oil pump disassembled and cleaned

Anyone have any ideas where to go next

Ross

They were oval out by 6 thou

now replaced and balanced to within a gram

I read somewhere that oil squitters only operate under pressure so therefore you can not blow through them. they operate at around 37psi area. So they will feel like there blocked until under operating pressure

thing I need to know is are they supposed to be free flowing or under pressure

Hi

I am currently rebuilding my engine after my shells failed and sent metal all round the engine. My question is do I need to replace the squirters 1 I can blow through freely with my mouth 1 I can just blow through with my mouth and 4 I can't. all of them blow through with compressed air. Which is correct or are they cheap enough just to replace them all

Regards

Ross

there clean can do them up by hand so the surfaces are nicely together then torque them. my concern is that the feel very stiff to the point of if i move them up or down they will turn the crankshaft

Bolts are dry shells lubed

then that is even tighter than what i'm doing them up and they are quite stiff already is that normal with new shells and bolts

Hi

I am currently rebuilding my engine but having trouble with the con rods. I have replaced the big end shells and the bearing carrier shells I am using engine build lub and new bolts on the con rods but when I do them up to 20nm thena 90 degree turn they are extremely tight moveable but only just. before the 90 degree turn they feel more like what i am expecting move freely but with no play.

Can you please confirm the initial torque is 20 and that the final is a 90 degree turn and should they move freely or do they need to bed in before there free. I believe the bolts are designed to stretch under use.

Regards

Ross