sky217

were the tires broken in properly?
how many miles on the car?  how long have you had it?  history of front end issues?
could be a defective tire, or front end suspension issues.  control arms?  has the car been tracked?
does the issue occur on a good straight paved road?  are tires properly balanced?
check tire play on a long straight good smooth roadway.  sometimes a bouncing effect can happen if the tires are not properly balanced, and this might not be apparent at 50mph but would be noticeable at 65.
good luck. 
 

Mine did the same thing, I changed all of the coil packs and plugs and it didn't help. I also began hearing a ticking noise so I had it hauled to the shop, they said the noise was the cam tensioner and it was normal noise as they age, and they claim to have identified a vacuum leak and changed the OAS which fixed it... for a day. I called the shop, they said to bring it back, and the engine exploded on the way... D chunk failure on the #1 cyl.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2W5qidpo0u4. My car is doing the exact same thing


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Thanks everyone I will go ahead and do that.


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I was thinking more like water going down the air filter some how.


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So after I took my car for a simple aliments and got new tires I started hearing this kicking noise from the front passenger side. Took it to Firestone and they couldn’t find out what it was. Any ideas? I might have to take it to the dealer but was wondering if that happened to anyone before.

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Still possible small cracks are doing you in.  What happens after you wash car, or hose it off?  Is car outside in rain, or garaged?  What you described sure seems like classic coil pac issue.  Good luck.  

 
Check your coil packs, one or more is cracked.

I have 2003 996 with 84k miles that hates the rain. Was wondering if anyone had a similar issue and figured out a solution. I get engine check lights on and flashing with the car shaking after each time it rains. Checked the code and I am getting random misfires and cylinder 5 and 1 misfire.

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When pulling up to a red light:

1) I disengage the clutch

2) Pull the shifter out into neutral

3) Engage the clutch back into neutral

Then when the green light appears:

1) Disengage the clutch

2) Attempt to bring the shifter into first gear, but it stops half way from neutral and first, as if something inside is blocking the pathway. And Yes, I have the clutch pedal completely down.

I have also encounter that problem when down shifting from second to first.

My solution usually trying 2-1 or 3-1.

I have read through the forms and saw that problem appeared for others and I was wondering if anyone found an easy fix for it. It can get annoying doing so each time.

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Do a search here.
1. Try a new battery (and clean an debris from the circuit board).
2. Try the reset by reversing the battery for a few seconds.
3. Inspect the circuit board especially the buttons - they do wear out.

You can buy the whole key and just transfer the transponder pill and metal key blade - that will work fine too.

Of course, you can try your second key.
If you want to be sure beyond that then you will need to use Durametric or Porsche PIWIS to check for alarm/door locking faults.

Have you looked at the circuit board in the key?
Sometimes the buttons just plain wear out.
 
A great solution is to buy the design key from Porsche (head only). Then transfer your immobilizer pill and metal key to the new design key.

Fits 2001-2004.5 Carrera 996 (except Targa). Also fits Boxster models with a one or two button remote (1997-2000).

Installation Guide - CLICK HERE

About $135 from your dealer.
 

Hello,

I had this car for about few month now and since I got it the remote never worked.

Things I have tried:

1). Replaced battery

2). Followed this video to reset key:

3). Tried a few things by locking and unlocking the door and it only worked a few random times then it stoped.

The car was sold to me with an after market Sony CD player and an after market amp.

I haven’t tried taking it to Porsche yet and I was wondering if there is anything I could do to fix it. The one time it worked randomly I liked how the seat also moves into position. I would really like for it to function like it should.

2003 Porsche 996 with 83,000 miles.

Other observations: The car switch for locking and unlocking the doors sometimes doesn’t work. I have to turn the car on usually for it to work or use the key manually to open passenger door or fuel tank access door. Not sure if that is normal but when trying to lock the doors using the car switch while driving the car would lock doors and sound the door locked alarm which is funny.

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Yes, a lot of things need to be removed. You may also need to LOWER the engine (not dropping the engine). Support the engine bottom and remove the engine mount nuts, then you can lower the engine by a few inches and that creates all the space you need to work on top of the intake manifolds.

I'm not sure that oil leaking from what looks like the oil cooler would make that gurgling sound.
check out other threads on the forum.
How's the coolant level?  Have you put on the updated 997 reservoir cap?
glad you found the vacuum line leak.  Good luck.

Hello Ahsai,

After some investigation I did find an air leak on the vacuum line and fixed which fixed everything and car runs great.

I also found out where the coolant is leaking from as attached in the picture. I just don’t think that’s the job I can do.

After hearing that I will have to drop the engine scared me off.

I will try to take it to a mechanic tomorrow and see how much they will quote me for it.

Your recommendations or comments are always welcome.

Peter


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That was rough. I got it done with no damage and didn’t have to remove the airbags. I just unplugged the battery. Idk if I recommend doing that to other though.


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Find someone local near you with Durametric, or a PST2, or a PIWIS tester. Might just cost you a beer or two.

I would disconnect it and put it someplace safe while you work on the regulator. Resetting an airbag fault is easy with the right software tool.
I once saw a shop tech lean an airbag against a wall while he worked on the window regulator - the airbag slipped down the wall and went off.
The customer got a new airbag.

Do you have to remove the air bag while working on removing the window regulator?

I unplugged the battery to be safe and I didn’t want the air bag lights to come on but now I realized I need to move the window down to get access to it but I can’t Because I unplugged the battery.

Can I still work with the battery bulged and car is on with out unplugging the airbag. Just worried this thing will go off on me.

First time doing this so any tips and comments will be so helpful.

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The first video is the SAI pump. Needs lubrication or replacement. I can't hear the noise you're talking about in the second video.

Hello,

After 5 minuets when the engine is warmed up that sound goes away and I hear this sound here like there is something is leaking:

Please comment and let me know what you guys think.

Thank you

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