rodsnhawgs

Update: Finally got the key to re-insert. Repeated attempts only made ignition switch get "softer" and more "spongy." Top remained partially open. So, I (thought) I was committed to repairing the problem myself now convinced the electrical issues are all ignition switch related. But wait...I bought an extended warranty after replacing the RMS!! Ignition switch is ~$200; warranty deductable: $200; no-brainer here right?...wrong... Car in trailer to dealership for repairs. Dealer called Warranty Direct for authorization per the contract. Authorization granted. Warranty Direct will only cover ~$120 of the $165 (genuine Porsche parts) ignition switch b/c they want to use aftermarket parts...OK, I'll go the difference and tell the dealer to proceed using Porsche parts. BTW, the top also needed a relay. $35 diff in price and 1 hour labor. Repairs complete, I'm expecting to pay the $200 deductable + $45 difference for the switch + another $35 for the relay...right?....wrong.... Warranty Direct apparently uses a different "flat rate" than most repair shop's typical Mitchell books. They won't say what they use, only "a national hourly rate chart." Dx + repairs via Mitchell calls for 5 hours labor; WD pays < 2.5 hours and apparently does not allow for diagnosis. Additionally, they didn't match my Porsche dealer's hourly rate of $100/hour but paid a lesser $90/hour. Bottom line: I had to pay $650 out of pocket for a job I could have done for ~$300. This is NOT what I bought a warranty for!! Calls to Warranty Direct were met with "we are not going to consider changing the price" and a supervisor will not come to the phone to discuss this. Appeals need to be handled via www.adr.org which will cost me ~$750 for them to hear my case... I think I just got ripped off... Long story short - be very careful with Warranty Direct. Make sure you know what you are buying and what to expect. My WD contract states they will pay for "reasonable costs to repair or replace any Failure." The definition of "reasonable" is not clear and is left to interpretation by Warranty Direct. I cannot recommend them.

update and new problem: tried diconnecting battery for a couple of days thinking computer may need to reset itself...tried top again after recon and top worked. However, after moving about 1/2 down, I stopped it to do the karate chop thing to the back window...top would not continue. Discon again for about an hour; recon - no luck...top is stopped at 1/2 open/closed. :o Second problem has now reared its head - and my guess is they are related: Ignition felt "soft", even "spongy" when turning key to off and even past off postiton. Pulled key and got a message stating "ignition key not removed"...even got the key not removed chimes audible alarm... hmmm... key back in and restarted engine... off again w/ the "soft" feel... this time when I removed the key, it made a louder than normal disconnect. Upon trying to reinsert the key, the ignition will not allow the key to enter the slot. So...now I'm locked out of the ignition and the top is stuck 1/2 open! Any insights??

Sounds like my problem with one major exception - I hear NO noise at all. No unusual noises on previous (last) up/down cycle either. Top simply won't respond in any way. Any ideas? Beelzy mentioned "service mode"... what is that? do I need it? Thanks

As promised, I did a little re-engineering to make the problem of dead battery/locked front bonnet (trunk) access a little easier. Before proceeding to the fix, I’ll share a few things I learned during this rather frustrating event: 1. Never ever leave your key in the ignition for any length of time – it will drain the battery 2. The “red” pull-out tab in the fuse panel apparently is NOT a direct 12VCD link to the bonnet switch 3. Apparently ALL Boxsters have the manual bonnet release cable under the right (passenger side) front fender. Reading the various threads and the factory service manual can be confusing re MYs pre 2000 and post 2000. Mine is a 2002 and sure enough…the cable was there (thank goodness and the Porsche engineers). 4. The cigar lighter point is not sufficient to recharge an extremely depleted battery. Even if it were, I personally have my doubts that one could use it without a wiring meltdown…just my opinion, but my recommendation would be to avoid this route if at all possible if there is any question re the amount of amperage being transferred across this point. On to the fixes. This is the first of two issues I plan to make changes to. The second will come later because I have to gather up some parts. Here’s version 1 involving the manual pull cable. Porsche did a very sensible job of providing a (secure) manual backup. However, it’s so secure, it is a real ordeal to access. Therefore, my fix makes it easier to access while at the same time keeps things secure from the standpoint that most (Boxster-savvy) would-be criminals will likely assume the cable is factory OEM. All I did was extend the OEM cable and loop it over the outer-most fender liner tab. I used .06” stainless cable. The extended cable works the same. Now we only have to remove one fender liner retainer to reveal the cable loop. A simple pull and we’re in. I did make one change that is not shown in the pictures – the cable extension is actually routed BEHIND the horizontal cross member and held in place with a cable tie. Note that the pic of the two “loops” shows the cable running out of view to the left – this is to illustrate the two loops only.

Apparently that was/is the case...I'M IN!! Loren, once again, you are the man!! Watch for my fix.

Loren: So you are saying that the 02 WILL have a cable?

I've done pretty extensive searching on this topic but have yet to find my particular problem...please forgive me if I've missed this one on a previous post. MY02 Boxster; tiptronic; top is down Got home from a trip and inadvertently left key in ignition after unloading trunks, etc. After nearly a week, wife went to get in (her) car and found the key and a dead battery....oops. :o Here's what I've done and checked: 1. Checked all fuses - none blown 2. Voltage at fuse block is only showing 2.3 VDC 3. applied 12VDC to red trunk jumper in fuse block - no help 4. applied 12VDC to fuse terminal C3 (remote/key lock) and tried key - key lights when sending signal but in the end, no help 5. battery booster to cig lighter several times for varying amounts of time - no help 6. regular battery charger w/ amperage cut back to cig lighter for varying amounts of time (up to 1 hr) - no help 7. searched Renntech and 986 forums for "dead battery" and "front trunk" issues - nothing with my exact problem 8. tried manually locking/unlocking the door w/ the key to disarm any alarm issues - no help. BTW, the alarm light is not blinking. However, the radio alarm light IS 9. referenced Boxster factory service manual for information on front trunk access - no real help beyond what I've already tried. 10. Would be nice to gain access to the starter and jump from that, but can't get to it because the top is down. I've read on here that US Boxsters all have the front trunk emergency cable but the factory service manual doesn't support that...which is correct? I'm thinking the battery has been pulled down so far that it is beyond recharging from the cig lighter, too far down to let the red trunk lock terminal work, and/or the battery has a "dead short" in it and is grounding any voltage attempts at the above. Does anyone have thoughts on where to go from here? I'm going to improve on the original engineering once this is solved - I'll post my complete upgrade at that time so you guys never have to deal with this issue again. Many thanks.

Two things to keep in mind: 1. The outside axle retaining nut torques to 340 ft lbs - be sure to use impact an grade socket and extension 2. Be sure to torque the inner joint bolts to the proper specs for your car - you need to dbl check me, but if memory serves correctly, the 8mm bolts torque to 29 and the 10mm bolts to 60 ft lbs

Loren, you are my hero!! :notworthy: Once you pointed me in a direction, I was able to fab a tool which quckly did the trick. Shaft cover and seal easily installed in a matter of minutes. Hopefully this will help others. :thumbup:

Sorry Loren. I'm pretty new to this forum site and after posting the first time, I couldn't find it in the list of "new" posts. Thinking it got buried in the archives, I made a new post under a title that actually addresses the issue. You're reply is much appreciated and helpful - looks like a tool that I can fabricate without much problem and be back on the road in short order. Thanks again. BTW, for those of you needing the full info around the RMS and shaft along w/ Loren's answer: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...hl=rms&st=0

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- OK guys, I'm deep into the RMS removal and replacement (R&R). The seal has been fairly straightforward w/ no issues - you can see it installed in the pic. After I get this finished, I'll post a more complete story and pic history. However, for now I have a more pressing issue/problem. The Bentley svc manual only recommends R&R of the 3 bolts on the intermediate shaft cover. But my internet research clearly shows that the recommended preventative measure is to replace the original cover a newer version which has an updated seal design. Upon this recommendation, I pulled the cover. Here's where the problem began - w/ the cover removed, the shaft had nothing to keep it centered in the opening. I am completely surprised, given all the wonderful engineering of the Boxster, that Porsche has done such a poor job of supporting the tail-end of both the crankshaft and the intermediate shaft and thus creating these leak issues. Oh well.... Anyway, the shaft shifted off-center in the opening, apparently under the chain tensioner's loads (see attached pic). Without the shaft being centered in the opening, there is no way to re-install the cover. I've loosened the chain tensioners, which offer no help. The Bentley svc manual doesn't address this issue and I can't find any info on the internet. Can any of you offer experience/insite? Thx.

OK, I've followed w/ this and have hit a snag. RMS replacement fairly straightforward w/ no issues. However, when I pulled the intermediate shaft cover to replace it w/ the new style, the shaft shifted off-center under the forces of the chain tensioner(s) {see attached pic}. Without the shaft being centered in the opening, there is no way to install the new cover. I've loosened the tensioners but no luck. Do any of you have the solution? My Bentley svc manual doesn't address this issue and I can find no info on the web.

Go to an automotive paint store. There, you can buy paint formulated for plastic trim. You'll want to clean the parts w/ a prepsolvent (removes grease and silicon), scuff them w/ a scotchbrite pad or equivalent, clean them again, and apply the paint. In a pinch, use a laquer paint - but beware, laquer dries very hard so it will be brittle and chip over time. However, if your body shop caused it, I'd require them to fix it....inexcusable workmanship.... :soapbox:

Are you holding the top up/down switch until the cycle completes? Refer to your owner's manual - the top cycle must complete. It seems like the top is fully up/down to the naked eye, however, if the cycle doesn't fully complete, the "idiot" light will stay on... been there....done that....