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nc986

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    2002 Porsche Boxster

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  1. nc986
    I replaced the A/OS and the car seems to be working well again. No wandering RPMs at idle, no rough starting. The CEL is off, but it took a few days to come on the last time I unhooked the battery. I'm not out of the woods yet, but it looks good so far. A note to anyone replacing their Air Oil Seperator: DO NOT TRY TO REUSE THE COMPRESSION HOSE CLAMP. The clamp on the bottom of the A/OS is the spring/compression type and you need a pair of plyers to get it off. That's the easy part. In an act of tremendous and unforgivable hubris, I ignored the suggestions of others to put a new screw-type hose clamp on the new A/OS. After many cuts and bruises, a good deal of sweat, and a mild burn on my forehead from two hours under the exhaust manifold, I gave up. The compression clamp CAN NOT be put back on from underneath the car. Today, I bought a $1 screw-type clamp. I dissassembled the new A/OS (it was all installed but for the bottom clamp), replaced the spring clamp, reinstalled the A/OS, and had the car running in 35 minutes. Lesson: learned.
  2. nc986
    I unplugged my MAF and got, in this particular case, the best result I could hope for: no change. The car still started a bit wonky, idled high, shuddered a little, etc. I'm going to buy a new A/OS tomorrow, locally if the price is reasonable (unlikely). Given that it may take a few days to get parts from CA to NC, and the fact that I am a very slow mechanic, it may be days before I have a good update for you. Thanks again for all of the advice. Even if the A/OS isn't the final solution, I can rule it out for $120 and some sweat, which is a lot less than any mechanic I know.
  3. nc986
    Thanks Chris. You make a good point about the problems going away instantly, regardless of the CEL. The issue I'm up against is that the problems are intermittent. I don't have a problem starting the car every time, and I don't have a wandering idle every time. So if I unplug the MAF and everything is OK for a few cycles, I don't know if I can conclude that I have a bad MAF. It could just be that I'm one start away from the problems. How long is it safe to run without the MAF? Regardless, I will try it before I order an A/OS. If I unplug the MAF and the problems persist, it sounds like I should invest in the new seperator. I'll cross the 'did I leave it unplugged long enough' bridge when I come to it.
  4. nc986
    02 Boxster, manual, 50k mi Started this on another thread, but I have new info, a picture, and a question. Recap: - CEL on - Rough idle - Sometimes takes 3 tries to start - P1128 error code - Some oil in throttle body - Cleaned MAF, cleaned TB, air filter OK I think it's a failed Air Oil Seperator (A/OS), but this looks like a bear to change. Is there anything I can do to test the A/OS, or rule out other problems? Attached is a photo of the oil I found in the tube feeding air to the throttle body. Looks like about 1/2 a tablespoon of oil. The old 'unplug the MAF' trick won't help me because it takes days for the CEL to come on every time I unhook the battery, even though the starting and idling problems persist. What other tests can I do? Or can anyone say with 70%+ certainty that it's the A/OS?
  5. nc986
    - I had the starting problem first last Tuesday. Not every start, just once. - Yesterday I cleaned the MAF, and had no start problems before or after. - Today, it took 3 tries to start the first time and I didn't crank it again. I've done all I can to the MAF with apparently no effect on the starting issue (or idle issue for that matter). This doesn't really absolve the MAF of responsibility, but I'm on to the next DIY step before I go to a shop. I'll take the car over to Advance Auto Parts and see if I can get them to read whatever codes they can. My last trip, they told me they'd only check it if the CEL was on, so I'll have to beg a little. Wish me luck. If I get some results out of the codes, I'll move forward accordingly. If I don't get anything out of it, I'll see if cleaning the throttle body has any effect (once the codes have been read, I figure unhooking the battery again won't lose me anything). I'll check this board again tomorrow, so any other input would still be appreciated. If I get any new data, or a resolution, I'll be sure and let y'all know. Thanks, Chris
  6. nc986
    Thanks vizcarra44, I really appreciate the input. Could I be dealing with 2 problems? Maybe the MAF caused the CEL, and the throttle body is causing the idle/starting issue? I'm grasping at straws. I usually ascribe to the "simplest explanation is best" philosophy, so it pains me to even ask that question. Can I draw any conclusions from the fact that the CEL has not come back on in the 50 miles and 5-10 trips since I disconnected the battery? Will the computer record error codes even if the CEL is not on? In short, if I take the car to a mechanic at this point, are they going to read the computer and get nothing out of it (except my $50)? Come to think of it: if my car has failed to start twice, and the idle is rough or high, why ISN'T my CEL on? A clue, a red herring, a coincidence... - Chris
  7. nc986
    '02 Boxster (986), manual, 50k miles My CEL came on one hot day a few weeks ago. Thinking it might be the old "didn't tighten the gas cap" problem, I waited for it to go away. Later, I noticed some wandering idle (600-900 RPM), but only occaisionally. Then I noticed that when it was idling smoothly (when warm) it was idling near 1000 RPM, which seemed high. In the middle of that 2 week span, I unhooked my battery and lost all of the error codes and the CEL. The CEL has not come back on, but the other symptoms remain. On two occaisions this week, the car took 3 tries to start. On the failed attempts, the engine seemed unable to reach high enough revs to sustain momentum. Here's what the problem isn't: new battery, new alternator, new driver side window motor, new ignition switch (all within 5k miles), clean MAF (yesterday), Porsche 40k mile service. The only thing I haven't done yet is clean the throttle body. What do you think? Waste of time or possible solution? Side question: how in God's name do you get the air supply OFF of the throttle body? Is it safe to pry with a screwdriver? I tried by hand and could only pivot it a degree or so. Side question 2: how do I get to the friggin' screws under the throttle body? Is there a trick, or do I just have to be persistant with an allen wrench and take my frustrations out on an inanimate object? Please help. - Chris
  8. nc986
    I replaced the ignition switch today and that solved the problems! Thank you very much for the advice. A note about the small set screws: I borrowed a small screwdriver from work, but even that on was too large. I ended up using one of the magnetic hex drive screwdriver tips that came with my multi-function screwdriver. I had to turn it with my fingers (too tight under there for the screwdrvier), but once I figured that out I was gold. Thanks again! - Chris
  9. nc986
    Thanks! I jiggled the steering wheel, crossed my fingers, and got the key into the ignition. When it started, I got my wipers and headlights back, and the key turned smoothly. A couple of stop/starts later, I noticed the key seemed to 'over turn' and had to click back for me to have full functionality. The drag on the key came and went. I'd say your prognosis is right on. I'm going to replace the ignition switch ASAP. Unfortunately, that won't be for a couple of days. I'll keep you all posted. Thanks again!
  10. nc986
    I have a 2002 Boxster with electrical demons. Today, the electrical demons killed my wipers (no functions run by my wiper control arm work) and made my headlights shine very dim. It also seems difficult to turn the key in the ignition, like there is some kind of magnetic or friction resistance. All of these issues manifested over night - everything worked OK yesterday. Any suggestions? Other issues caused by the electrical demons: - Bought the car first week of February, drove it 40 mi., parked in the garage, would not start the next day. Tow truck able to jump it. - Two weeks later, washed the car, dried it, would not start. Dropped in a new battery. - One week later, key fob died. - One weeks later, washed the car, 48 hours later it died on the highway! Dealer put in a new alternator. They restarted the car, and the driver side window died. New regulator and motor. - One week later and here I am with no wipers, dim headlights, and a 500mi road trip for work starting tomorrow. Having combed this forum, I checked the drains and looked for water on the floor inside the car. I checked the appropriate fuses. I looked at the motor, the battery, all of the wires near the wiper motor. Nothing obviously wrong. Please help.
  11. nc986
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