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About Boxman90

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    1997 911 Carrera 3.4

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  1. Oh no, mine was a 996. The vid in the OP is not mine. Stumbled upon it when researching the sound mine made.
  2. No oil analysis, but 2000km since my last post and a good trip on the German Autobahn it's still running absolutely fine. After replacing the filter a few times, the oil was changed one last time 500km ago, to Mobil 1 5w50. Checked the oil filter yesterday when doing the IMS chain tensioner, and it was absolutely spotless. Not a single piece of metal or plastic.
  3. Just an update, I've replaced the bearing with a generic sealed dual-row bearing after thoroughly cleaning with magnets, rags and fresh oil. I was as meticulous as can be, replaced the internal swirl pots too. Car has been going strong for 1000km now. Total cost excluding oil and was ~150$.
  4. The original Porsche filter housing can be easily modified into a full-flow non-bypass design with two simple washers (and even be superior to the Spin-on / Napa Gold 1042 combo) We're all familiar with the spin-on adapter, but I wanted to find a cheaper and better way. At 200$ the investment is considerable for a piece of metal, be it a well-engineered one. I think it has an additional pretty big shortcoming in the tiny oil filter that comes with it. The original Porsche filter media is well over twice the size of the Napa Gold 1042 filter due to its length. In terms of flow-capacity,
  5. That's a questionable catch-all conclusion, really only works if your bypass failed which is only the case in a small percentage of cars. The cartridge filter is inherently full-flow in design too. Simply has a potential for the bypass valve to fail, but as long as it's doing its job properly you really cannot conclude that broken IMS always equals grit in pressurized oil passages. Unless IMS damage also always destroys your bypass valve?. The spin-on just ensures the bypass failure mode is removed. But really, if you have a faulty bypass valve and you're constantly running unfiltered oil - wi
  6. In all my posts I'm assuming the use of a full-flow non-bypass filter. I've disassembled the oil case, the oil in the sump doesn't reach the crank by a long shot. There's only a small window to the crank anyway. The splash coming from the sump will be minimal at best. But even then, oil circulates at a pretty serious volume. The volume in the sump will not be there for very long before all that oil has been worked through the filter. In the end, the vast vast majority of all grit will reach the filter. Your story only holds up if the oil in the sump is permanently contaminated and does not get
  7. I know, and I thank you for the willingness to discuss. I wouldn't say I overlooked it as I specifically did mention "without a faulty bypass valve". Assuming a clean, full-flow oil filter, which components are at risk for getting damaged by grit as it's on the way back to the sump? I'm still figuring out the exact oil routes in this block, but I suppose it cannot reach the main- and rod-bearings, right?
  8. I won't be liked for saying it, but to me it just doesn't add up, thinking about it critically from an engineering standpoint. On the one hand, "any and all ferritic debris is bad and requires an engine rebuild because the 'grit' keeps circulating." At the same time, apparently "small ferritic debris that pass through the oil filter are not as much of a problem", as it doesn't disqualify an engine for a retrofit. Sure, the magnet is nice, but apparently it's not that big an issue if you don't have one. Then, if you had an IMS go, apparently the big grit is a 'huge problem', even th
  9. Few additional questions though, cause I've read some of your contributions in other topics, like with stick-on magnets and so on, which indicate that there is always some tiny ferritic particles sloshing around, which can also pass through the oil filter. These are not a problem, then? What size is 'too big' and would they not be caught by the oil filter?
  10. Well, sure sounds to me like I've got a totaled engine sitting in my car then. I have the time and knowledge, but don't have the resources to rebuild or buy a working 996 engine. Engines I've worked on in the past survived a lot worse and were 9/10 times fixable. Seems like I bought myself a glass box, such a shame it didn't present symptoms when I bought it 3 weeks ago. I know when to take the loss and walk away, I'll probably sell 'as-is with broken engine' and have learned an expensive lesson ?.
  11. I know of LN Engineering and boy, have I read extensively these past 3 weeks. I suppose you work there and/or with them? They're not an option for me since I don't live in the US. I'm not talking about the LN Engineering Retrofit - I know my engine would never for the life of it qualify for one since it's an open bearing. I have read the selection criteria. I would install a closed bearing, for which there are several options still. So, again, just to be clear; IMS failure of any kind = engine totaled, by your standards? Since, put in the most simplest of terms, you can't u
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