Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

paulv

Contributing Members
  • Content Count

    147
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by paulv

  1. AutoEnginuity (http://www.autoenginuity.com/index.html) makes a diags tool which you can buy specific modules for depending on make of car (and they have a module for Porsche). Downside is that the software updates are not free. I was comparing this against the Durametrica few years ago and decided to go with Durametric, and glad that I did -- version 6.x added a lot of useful diagnostic info (comparable to AutoEnginuity) and they still have free updates. Other scan tools that support Porsche are over $1000 and get expensive very quickly -- these are great if you're a pro and have a shop. Regards, paul...
  2. RFM/JFP, Thx for your insight -- Instead of swapping wheels, I got lazy and stopped by the shop where I usually have my tires installed and the tech used the hand-held to determine that the RR wasn't transmitting (while the others were). So, like you guys said, premature battery failure. I'll wait until I buy another set of tires (about 1.5 yrs) and change out all four sensors. Regards, paul...
  3. Why does the TPMS controller need to be re-programmed when a wheel sensor is replaced? I'm also having errors with my TPMS with a fault showing for the RR wheel. I'm going to swap the rear tires and then the rear antennas to see if I can isolate the problem. My Durametric shows that I have 23 months remaining in the other wheels with zero months on the RR wheel. Regards, paul...
  4. Loren, Thx for the reply -- that's what I thought. Regards, paul..
  5. I'm having a problem with the TPMS and think it could be in the wiring or the controller (already checked the wheel sensors and antennas by swapping sides). Does anyone know if the controller needs to be programmed if I have to buy a new one (with PIWIS)? I checked with Durametric and they don't offer coding for the TPMS module but service info I've seen specifically states that a new module needs to be coded. Anybody knows for sure? Thx. Regards, paul...
  6. Alex, Have you looked at the long term fuel trim (RKAT, FRAU, FRAO) values for both banks? Also, DFI engines are made to be able to go leaner, but I don't know what the limit is. Another thing is that those vaues are not consistent as I noticed that lambda is around 1.0 throughout various rpms but at some point it jumps to 3.0+ for the same range of rpms. BTW, you're tracking too many actual values with Durametric -- this tool, like many others for various OEMs do well when only tracking a small amount of values. Just read the actual lambda values for both banks and rpms only and see what the results are. Regards, paul...
  7. White987S, Please post your thoughts on the JG oil -- I'm curious about what kind of startup noise you hear (specifically chains sliding on plastic runners). Thx, and best wishes for another 50K!! Regards, paul...
  8. Select the TPMS entry in Durametric (I'm assuming you have version 6.x.x.x), and then look at the various Actual Values for each wheel. If the Durametric can't communicate with the TPMS controller, you may want to first check the fuse (F3 in Fuse Holder B, 15A) for the controller. The controller is located at the front trunk, left side if needed. You can also see how much battery life (in months) is remaining in each sensor (which is what I check every 7500 miles). Regards, paul...
  9. I remember reading this: 1) You can end up with faults in some of the control units -- these should clear up after the new battery is installed. 2) Steering angle sensor: Turn wheels straight forward Switch ignition off and then on again twice Turn engine on From the straight ahead position, turn the wheel approx 20 deg to the right (past the straight ahead position) Drive straight ahead for about 2 secs and at least 3 mph This should reset itself. 3) Power windows: Push and hold window switch to fully close window Push switch once more (to close) Repeat these steps, only to open window Regards, paul...
  10. Porsche's public site has parts catalogs: http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesandservices/porscheservice/originalparts/originalpartscatalogue/ Regards, paul... PS: Sent you a PM on this b/c I couldn't reply to your post with an image attached. Look at illustration 903-05
  11. John, The 987's have a rear controller that powers most of the items in the rear of the car (lights, soft top operation,etc) and that controller is fused. If the fuse is blown, then none of the other rear lights would work. Once I had a problem with one of my license plate lights periodically going out -- when I hit the rear bumper, it would come back on. I fiddled with the light socket and bulb holder contacts to make a better connection and haven't had a problem since. BTW, these lights are wired in parallel with one side grounded (brown wire) and the power side (gray wire) being driven by the rear controller. Sent you a PM. Regards, paul...
  12. Try resetting the windows: Perform the following procedure for all power windows: · Actuate rocker switch and fully close window once. · Actuate rocker switch once more to close. The upper end position of the window is stored. · Actuate rocker switch and fully open window once. · Actuate rocker switch once more to open. The lower end position of the window is stored. Sorry, I can't help you with the heated seats. Regards, paul....
  13. I got my hardtop when I ordered my '07 since I live in New England and was planning to drive the car year 'round. I really like the top and glad that I bought it. It does take two people to install/remove the top. Also, when I have the top loosely in place, I prop up the rear window with some bubble wrap (about 4" or so), which makes it easier to connect the rear window defogger cable. Then I secure the top. BTW, when you buy a hard top, you will need all the hardware that goes on the car to mate up with the hardware on the top. Sorry I can't help with locating the top. Regards, paul...
  14. Sorry, I don't have answers but if you send me your email address, I'd be happy to send you the interior/exterior lighting wiring diagrams from Mitchell-1. These are copyrighted so I can't post them. Regards, paul...
  15. I'm not sure how this chart is useful. First of all, the fuses are not responsible for the parasitic draw on the battery, the components on the circuit are. Secondly, you don't need a clamp probe to measure parasitic draw (current, measured in mA) which can easily be detected accurately by a $20 multi meter..................... First: Agree Second: Agree The idea is to measure the current draw without opening the circuit to insert the DMM into it. All they essentially did was to measure the resistance of a bunch of fuses and then created a table of voltages to do the Ohm's law arithmetic on to calculate what the current would be going through the fuse that yielded that voltage. BTW, this was from an article by Karl Seyfert in the Dec 2010 issue of Motor magazine that he got from a Carquest training seminar -- it's nothing that I thought up! Regards, paul...
  16. Here's some useful info I found and hope it can help people. It's essentially an application of Ohm's Law where the resistance of a fuse is known (that was previously measured), and then a voltage measurement is taken across the fuse yielding the current (after checking the chart). Then we can check the specs for what the quiescent current of the circuit should be and compare the values. This is a good trick and sure beats going out and buying a precision amp clamp probe which are a few hundred bucks for a good one (and beyond my DIY wallet!!). Regards, paul... Vd Chart Inst.pdf Voltage Drop Across a Fuse Chart.pdf
  17. Both switches are electrical and interface into controllers for the rear and front lids. The front lid is operated by the front controller and the rear lid is operated by the rear controller - these then go into the door lock circuitry which have "less complicated" controllers to open the lids. I have some schematics for my 07 Box that I could send you (can't post due to copyright laws) -- send me a PM with your email if you want them. Also, when you pull on the switch, do you hear any noises of any kind for the two lids? If you know someone who has access to the PIWIS or the Durametric tools, you can exercise these controllers and open the lids to show that the controllers are working. Regards, paul...
  18. The headlight washer relay is fused (Holder B, fuse F4, 25A) according to wiring diagrams (Mitchell-1) I have for my US model ('07 3.4S). How are you with reading wiring diagrams as I can send you some -- can't post here due to copyrights. Regards, paul...
  19. I'm not really sure what you're asking so here's everything I know: New engine fill: 9.7L Oil change w/o filter: 7.5L Oil change w/ filter: 7.75L There is a TSB on this site, dated 4/23/99 which states that: Oil change w/o filter: 8.5L Oil change w/ filter: 8.75L When I change the oil in my 3.4L Box, I put in 8.25L which brings me to the top bar on the dash display. Hope this helps. Regards, paul...
  20. There's not much info to base any opinion but my personal feelings are: 1) Without any records (owner or dealer provided) I would walk away -- there could be nothing wrong with the car, I'm just skeptical when it comes to buying used hi-perf cars. 2) I think that the IMS & RMS designs were changed for the 987 during mid-year of the 2006MY, but there are smarter people than me here who could possibly verify that. Even with records, there could still be problems like the engine being way over rev'd in the past. Good luck. Regards, paul...
  21. According to the TSB available on this site (for contributing members), the first generation TPMS was for vehicles with MY05-08, the second generation is for MY09. They did change the part number for the MY08 but it works with the MY05-07 cars. BTW, when I changed my tires to a 255 in the rear, and reset the TPMS accordingly, it went into learning mode for a few miles and then worked normally. Regards, paul... Thanks for the quick response... So when I get home tonight, if I put on one of the 19" wheels and just go for a quick drive to see if it works what is the worst that can happen? The rolling diameter should be the same, and I will not go on the highway or anything so I am not concerned about the miss matched wheels / tires, but could this do anything to the TPMS system? I think if you just mount the 19" wheel and see if it registers with the ignition on, then that will answer your question -- no need to drive the car -- just turn the key on, move the OBC stalk to the TPMS screen, and wait for the four psi measurements to come up -- this will establish that the sensor in that 19" tire is the right frequency. Make sure the 18" tire you took off is far away from the car so it doesn't interfere with the receivers. The TPMS settings (via the OBC) are for 17/18/19" tires, summer/winter (tire width differences) and is set for approved tire sizes for all the tires on the car. The summer sizes in 19" (last time I checked) were 235/35/19 fronts, 265/35/19 rears. Anything else will skew the TPMS readings and could cause false warnings of tire pressure issues. When I changed my tires (as mentioned previously) I bought Conti Extreme Contacts (which is an all-season tire) but they only made 255/40/18 and not the 265/40/18 I needed for the rears, so I set up the TPMS for "winter" and 18" tires (I only have stock 18" wheels) for year round driving. I set the TPMS in the tire installer's lot when they were done and drove away -- TPMS went into learning mode for a few miles and then the TPMS dash light went out and everything was OK. I thought I saw where someone had the dealer (via PIWIS) add other tire sizes to the TPMS system, but I'm not sure on that -- maybe someone else has some insight to verify that. Sorry for the long-winded answer as the first sentence answers your basic question. Regards, paul....
  22. According to the TSB available on this site (for contributing members), the first generation TPMS was for vehicles with MY05-08, the second generation is for MY09. They did change the part number for the MY08 but it works with the MY05-07 cars. BTW, when I changed my tires to a 255 in the rear, and reset the TPMS accordingly, it went into learning mode for a few miles and then worked normally. Regards, paul...
  23. Stef, With the nice intro that JFP provided, contributing members have access to TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins) on this site -- there's an approved oil listing that you can reference to see what other oils are recommended. For an UoA (used oil analysis), you can search my posts as I've posted a couple of UoA reports for my car. Regards, paul...
  24. That doesn't suprise me coming from a Firestone dealer! Anyway, could you please post again in the future on how the Conti EC DWS are working out for you? I'm running the ContiExtremeContacts and have had good luck with them, and they are being phased out with the new generation DWS. Good luck with your new tires! BTW, I always deal with Tire Rack and have a really good local installer that has a road force balancer and knows how to use it!! Regards, paul...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.