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Posts posted by vza

  1. What about the glitter and compromised bearing....LN engineering  says  STOP DO NOT PROCEED....other blogs and sites(pelican) don't seemed to be to concerned ….they actually tell you to remove metal debris from the IMS shaft if there is any....lots of different views goin around....very confusing. I kind of thought I was in good shape...no metal in my oil filter at all...3 small flakes in bottom of filter housing and as mentioned fine glitter in the shaft. Ugh

  2. Well that's alarming ….only hand tightened them and they were loose after the bearing came out, I've read the IMS has a little play and can move forward into the oil pump I wound up snugging them up but only finger tight using a socket between thumb and forefinger...and installed the LN cam lock and marked the cams. I mean I doubt I disturbed a pressed fitting by having these hand tight,.... Correct? 

  3. I used the easy out tool....just snake it behind the Bearing and screw the threaded bolt on and proceed with the included puller. Worked great....good amount of force to get it to pop. Bearing was in fact compromised, the rubber seal was torn allowing engine oil to get into the bearing and wash out the 'permenant ' grease. Some metallic 'glitter' cleaned out of shaft....hope it hasn't done too much damage!!! Any thoughts??

  4. Well I got the Ims tool kit from LN engineering and the cam lock dropped right in for bank 1 which leads me to believe the P253cam tool is off I couldn't get it in bank 2 but didn't spend that much time with it. I went ahead and marked the other 3 cams and inserted 2 set screws in place of the the Ims cover bolts as per Pelican instructions. Went ahead to remove the bearing and of course the center stud for the bearing snapped. I rented a pilot bearing puller but would have to fashion a 2'' pipe to use it with. However I didn't realize the tool kit comes with an 'easyout' sort of an oval nut with a wire attached to it. I assume you work the nut behind the bearing and tread a bolt into it and proceed to pull it. Anyone have experience with this tool? 

  5. Well... I got my tool the other day and am having similar problems. It won't drop in when crank is locked TDC....I manage to get it in a few degrees after TDC and the bolt holes don't line up to bolt it to the side of the engine case as intended. The interesting thing is this is duplicated on the other bank as well. Now some will say well....your out of timing....BUT what are the chances both banks are out at the same exact place(few degrees after TDC) and why doesn't the bolt holes line up? I can only assume the tool was machined incorrectly. BTW nothing was done to the engine yet to facilitate loss of timing. I drove the car 2 hrs when purchased in the same condition it is in now. Maybe I got your old tool! Mine looks ever so slightly angled as well, I didn't check it with a straight edge. Was the corrected tool bang straight on? Any thoughts on this ....the tool is a SIR tool P253. Thanks Vin

  6. 99 Boxster Base Yeah ...don't know whats up with the FW lock, it 's for a 99 boxster base...bolt did not thread easily. Yes, I wanted to check the cam timing with the P253 and was also going to use to hold the cams...Pelican said it was fine.??. Worked on it some today...I was able to get it to click in both cams after much jockeying around. But still was not able to bolt it to the case ....holes didn't line up. Went over to bank 1 and was able to hold with my left hand while turning the crank and felt it click in at the same spot bank 2 did.....and...was not able to bolt bank 1 either. Now the interesting thing is, that both sides do click in but not at TDC ....after they're in it seems I'm a few degrees after TDC on both sides. Now how are both cams out of sync at the same exact place(few degrees beyond TDC) I can only think the tool is off if its measuring the same for both sides and it can't ever be attached to the case. Now ...when I picked up the car (after purchase) I drove it home for 2 hours in this same condition.... I'm hoping there isn't any damaging effects if it is in fact out. Didn't notice any oddities in driving it. Any thoughts....trying to curb my obsession!! Thanks Again. V

  7. Well the flywheel lock didn't seem to fit correctly. When inserted into the FW teeth the bolt sort of began to bind in the case so I did not force it. I only grabbed maybe 1 thread and proceeded with a impact wrench....all was good....FW came off and the case bolt hole was unaffected. BUT....getting the FW back on and torquing it down maybe another issue. Any tips on how to get the tool on to allow the bolt to be tighten up without any binding or chance of cross threading the hole? I tried to jockey the FW around so it would line up but couldn't do it. While I'm having my run of bad luck with tools let me mention another I'm having a hard time with. The P253 Cam Timing tool ....I tried to get the tool in the exhaust and intake cam ends on bank 2 and couldn't get the lower(exhaust) fitting to get into the vertical cam groove. First I locked the engine At TDC and tried....didn't work ....then I figured....well maybe my timing is off in the first place so I jockeyed the crank shaft at a little before TDC a little after TDC just to see if would fit ever....could't do it ...the bolt that fixes the tool to the engine case was off couldn't thread the bolt! Any thoughts on this....seems like it would straight forward...lock eng at TDC drop the tool in to check the cams to crank alignment and so forth I mean what are the chances I'm out of time to start with? I dont know. Thanks V

  8. Ok thanks, I have the Bentley manual \ 101 projects...read a lot diy at pelican and thought I had it straight in my head. Can you point me in the direction to a serv manual, the Porsche manuals are more than half I paid for the car...The work I'm doing is the IMS, RMS and solenoid replacement on bank 2 and was inquiring about timing as to check that it wasn't lost after my work was complete. Thanks again for responding any additional input would be appreciated. Vin

  9. Hi All,99 Boxster. In removing Flywheel do I need to use a flywheel lock if I'm locking the crankshaft at TDC? And...to check the timing after cam cover removal and IMS job... if the crank is locked at TDC and I check the cams with the P253 timing tool the cams are timed with the crank as well because the crankshaft is at TDC...correct? Another words there isn't a procedure for checking the crank with the cams. Thanks V

  10. Hi Loren, Bank 1 seemed to have fresh oil drip from bottom of cover. A lot of dark oil around perimeter of both covers. Thinking back there may have been oil around a few coil packs …so im not sure. Bank 2 has a bad solenoid that needs to be replaced anyway, CEL P1539. Measured resistance across solenoid at .5 olms and no click when applied voltage. 8 inch oil ring on garage floor. Seems like there's oil everywhere ...oil pan looks leaky as well. I thought it was RMS or IMS but didn't pull tranny yet. Kind of overwhelmed ...don't know what project to start first. Any suggestions? Thanks v

  11. Hi, 99 Boxster ....Going to pull the Cam Covers cause they appear to be leaking oil and Bank 2 most likely has a faulty Solenoid to be replaced.. My question is how much from the top of the engine do I need to remove to get the Cam Covers off with the engine in the car. Do I need to remove the intake manifold and fuel rails? The Trans will be dropped cause I'm doing the IMS and RMS as well. A little nervous!! Thanks in advance for any advice. V


  12. Hi, 99 Boxster ....Going to pull the Cam Covers cause they appear to be leaking oil and Bank 2 most likely has a faulty Solenoid to be replaced.. My question is how much from the top of the engine do I need o remove to get the Covers off with the engine in the car. Do I need to remove the intake manifold and fuel rails? The Trans will be dropped cause I'm doing the IMS and RMS as well. A little nervous!! Thanks in advance for any advice. V

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