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vza

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Posts posted by vza


  1. OK Thanks....now for my next fix.....I get this awful knocking sound when going over potholes/bumps etc....front and back....more in the back. Struts seem ok....I know one of the strut bumpers rotted off one of the fronts. The rear ball joints in the control arms looked ok. The bushing at the end of the 'fork' looked somewhat twisted but not torn....not sure if its should be that way. Any ideas?? V


  2. FYI...Got the night illumination to work w/ the window switches as OBC hack. Trick is: you have to pull the switch apart 1st. 1st remove the rocker by releasing the peg from the hole on each side. Mark both pieces so you re-assemble the same way. Turn the switch over w/ pins facing you, there are 4 tabs to release, pull the switch apart,(switch is keyed so it goes back only 1 way) Now.....look for 2 contacts that are always closed on the side of the switch. You'll find them by looking and pressing the rocker 'nubs' (2 small squares of plastic that activate the switch) When you find the contacts get a small piece of electrical tape, maybe fold it over at the end so not to gum everything up, and open the switch and wedge it between the contact so the circuit remains uncompleted. tape the remaining to the top of the board so it doesn't move.( I may try and de-solder and pull out the contacts and glue a small plastic button in its place.) It has to be done w/ the 2 contacts. Re-assemble the switch. 

  3. Hi all, 99 Boxster Base. P1123...P1125 CEL's

     

    Did fuel pressure test and results are:

     

    Engine Off  3.3Bar

     

    Idle: 3.1 Bar

     

    Question, with engine off (after running and shut down) the fuel pressure was 2.6 Bars if I let it sit... it crept up to 3.4 Bars...... which is the accurate reading?

     

    Also....when replacing the fuel rail cap on the schrader valve I over torqued it with my cheapo torque wrench and popped the top of the cap and scored the top of the fuel rail with the bottom of the cap totally trashing the cap. Is this an issue I have to worry about. The valve seemed good and didn't leak...only a slight score or scratch at the base. Can I just replace the cap and move on. Thanks V


  4. Hi All, I know this is an old thread ....I did the OBC hack using 2 window switches and everything works. I  just can't figure out how to get the night illumination to work. I jumped switched voltage(switched on when lights are on) from an adjacent switch going to pins 3 and 5(neg and hot) the lights work but then the switch loses it function. It only works when I have the hot (switched hot)to pin 5 and move my ground over from pin 4 to 3. Then 1 switch is lit and functions cant remember what the 2nd did. Can anyone help. Thanks V


  5. I did the cluster upgrade with the OBC upgrade using 2 window switches....pretty much plug and play ....all works with the exception of getting night illumination for to the switches. I read pins 3 and 5 are ground and hot respectively. I tried jumping 3 and 5 from the TC switch directly to the new switches...this did light up the switches but then caused the TC LED to remain lit at all times with the ignition off!! Can I just jump it from the cigarette lighter or ashtray light? Thanks V


  6. Hi all, 99 Boxster Base. Recently swapped my cluster for a 996 cluster and also did the OBD hack using 2 window switches instead of the stalk and it was pretty much plug and play....everything works. Batt/oil gauges and OBC. The only thing I can't figure out is how to get the new switches to illuminate when the lights are on. I figure the common ground is present so all I need is a hot wire for illumination. I tried jumping the hot from the TC switch above the 2 new switches....but nothing worked. I also read pins 3 and 5 on the switch are gnd and hot respectively so I just tried to jump them from the TC switch and they illuminated but then the TC LED light stayed lit w ignition off.Anyone know how to get em' lit? I swapped them with the door plugs and they do work so its not the switches. Thanks V


  7. Hi all, 99 boxster base. Since replacing the coolant my low coolant light blinks....added coolant ...its fine for a while then blinks again then goes off after car is at operating temp. I guess the fluid expands when hot and the light goes out. Toped off coolant opened the bleed valve and drove for a while then shut it to purge any air in the system but light keeps coming back.....thoughts?


  8. Hi all, 99 Boxster w/ 996 cluster. Going to do the OBC hack with momentary switch instead of using the stalk. First I assume if my cluster shows the temp the OBC is enabled.Second question …..can I use the mirror selector switch 99661324100  (it has 4 switch positions ) instead of using 2 separate rocker switches? 


  9. Hi All, Just upgraded my 99 Boxster Base with 996 Cluster and to my surprise it was pretty much plug and play. Replaced the oil pressure sensor with the 996 sensor with 2 leads, ran the wire to the cluster made the connection and fired it up. All the lights are working .....even the convertible light (even though the donor it wasn't a cabriolet cluster .....go figure) Question is the oil pressure gauge moves when revved.....read some treads this is normal .....just want to be sure. Also....is the only thing I need to do is bring it to an indi or dealer to correct the milage....does the VIN # have to be added as well for state inspection?? Not too sure what to do if I want to add the OBC. Pelican talks about OBC with the 986 cluster but not with the 996 cluster.....is this a option with a 996 cluster? Thanks V


  10. Recently purchased 3 spoke wheel 99 Boxster Base and its missing the air bag frame and new its almost as much as I paid for the wheel. Anyone know what the actual function of this frame is. Is it just to provide a lead for the horn(ground probably) and just to retain the 2 airbag bolts from falling out when the bag is removed. Can I fabricate my own."only thing cheap about a porsche is its owner" thanks V


  11. Doing some small fixes on 99 boxster base after finally correcting a CEL issue. My door speakers don't work (yes w fader full to rear) I tested the door speakers on their own and they work so not the speaks. I then used jumpers between output plug and head unit to troubleshoot head. The dash worked as they should door didnt  so I jumped dash output from head to door speakers and dash speakers were sounding ..... now on the pinout I'm assuming front means dash and rear is door OR I'm totally incorrect and the fronts are in series and door and dash are considered front and rear speakers are only included in some sort of upgrade cause I don't have speakers in the storage bin behind the seats. There is a poweramp in the frunck. thanks v....OK They do work as faint sudo-subs....awful. So I assume the rear fader is for an additional set of speakers. 


  12. I had issues w electrical part of ignition (ac wouldn't work unless I moved key a little counter cw ) replaced electrical part and had issues w key very difficult to turn, wheel getting locked up. I replaced lock mechanism and all was good. You may have to do the same.v ps I remember I had to put a good amount of torque on steering wheel to unlock jammed wheel lock.

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