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Yes it was full of oil. I cleaned the plenums all the way to the flex tube going into the MAF. I only recently removed the MAF tube to find oil in the bottom of the air box. Ill clean it out and spray the maf with cleaner see if it helps. V

Looked like dirty motor oil. Did it migrate there from my bad AOS? Would it cause delayed acceleration and stalling? Thanks v

08 boxster...after a hand full of repairs including AOS and throttle body cleaning my car had sluggish delayed acceleration and would stall while idling. I pulled the tube that houses the MAF and found some oil droplets in the screen and evidence of oil on the MAF (not on the wire sensor) but in and around it. I also noticed a puddle of oil downstream of the MAF in the air box tube ....would this be the cause of my problem. Should I give the tube a good cleaning and spray the MAF w/Maf cleaner and see if that works. Thanks V

Ugh...Seems I stopped the oil leak by replacing RMS and IMS gasket. Also installed new fly and clutch. Went for a test drive all was good then 20 mins into the drive I started to experience what seemed to be the trans slipping not too sure. Happens around 2000-2500 rpm feels the rev limiter kicking in. I loose power then it grabs and takes off. Happens in all gears. Don't know what it is. Can't really tell if its the trans or something with the engine.   Praying I don't have to pull the trans again. Wasn't doing any of this before pulling the trans. 

I also was driving a little aggressively... wasn't aware of any break in period for new clutch. After further investigation I think it's an engine issue. If I rev the engine when parked the engine sputters then catches up....doesn't stall but sounds like it is. Maybe I disturbed something while doing the trans job. Still...any thoughts would help.

Hi, Need the torque specs for 08 boxster rear drop link and stabilizer.  Stabilizer to frame 48 Ft Lbs

                                                                                                                      Drop Link to Shock 63 Ft Lbs

                                                                                                                      Drop End Link         ?(I found 34/48 and 56)

Thanks V

OK good. Thanks V

I finally got it in. Best to walk away and try the next day. What about the clutch slave. The boot fell off and I just set the push rod back and stuck the boot back on. The push rod didn't snap in or anything just sat there. Is that all good?

Havin a hell of a time getting the gear box to mate with the engine. In any event I decided to remove the slave cause it was in the way and I didn't like how the hydraulic line was sitting.... seemed twisted. So in removing the slave the dust boot came off and stayed with the Trans. The pushrod has a ball on the end but didn't snap into the slave I just set it in there and slid the boot back on . Is that correct? Thanks v

Done...

Got it...just sits. Thanks for all the quick replies.v

Ok...thanks...how about that washer behind the guide tube...sorry I only want to pull the tranny once 

Ok but the nut is on and torqued to 7.5 already so should I remove it and do all the adhesives over again or just torque it down to 14 without redoing it all. Washer just sits behind guide tube? Thanks 

Forgot..do I need to remove the center nut for IMS and reapply curil and locktite or just torque it down. I torqued to 7.5 already. Spacer just rests behind guide tube. Correct?

Ok...So that spacer just rests behind the guide tube. Where do I apply lube ....thin coat on guide tube and on splines? Thanks for helping JFP.

Also(sorry couldn't fir 2 pix in one post)....

When removing the guide tube this metal washer flopped out exposing ball bearings and dripping some trans fluid. Does it just rest behind the guide tube?

What are the torque values for the guide tube bolts(3) I found 26 Ft Lbs ......

What kind of lube on the guide tube, shaft and pivot if any?

Thanks Again...V

Well ....some more questions:

The throw out bearing and the arm pictured is correct? Goes on the spindle facing out as shown.(I'm almost certain but wanted to double check.)

Also...What is the IMS torque value on the center bolt/nut... LN Engineering says 7.5 FT LBS. seems light to me Pelican says 24 Ft.Lbs also If I have to re-torque it to 25 do I have to remove the nut...clean it and re-apply the curil T and the Locktite?

Yup...that's it...took a while to find...was looking for the hex bolt.

Thanks for the response.....somehow that 3rd tensioner had a hex fitting. Make any sense?? V

Some questions. I only removed the 2 tensioners on the flywheel side. The 3rd was in the front buried under the AC compressor. Ims cover came off and went in without a hitch...was this procedure ok? Got lazy and didn't want to pull the compressor. LN engineering says to put locktite wicking to the center threads not sure what that is. Do they mean blue or red or another type? Also...the center bolt turned while trying to get the nut off (flat blade slipped a few times.) I assume that's ok. Thanks v

So I cleaned up the crank shaft and IMS cover area and locked the cams on Bank 1, prepping to replace the RMS and IMS seal (porsche does sell the IMS seal separate). Few questions:

LN Engineering says to pull all 3 tensioners (when replacing the bearing) is it necessary to pull all 3? Why do you have to pull any of them when I'm only removing the flange cover for the IMS(just curious). Should I replace the 2 bolts that hold the engine block halves together while I'm in there? Also, took quite a while getting the locking tool to bolt down (had to grind a bit of the shoulder off the tool cause it wasn't allowing it to be seated in the top cam,and the hole wasn't aligned). After getting the bottom in the cam slot I had to pull the locking pin out of the TDC hole and wiggle the tool a bit then tap it in to the top groove of the cam....then replace the locking pin in the TDC hole.  It all looks good. TDC pin in place and both blades of the locking tool well seated in the cam grooves and bolted down. Hope I didn't cause any weird problem for myself. Thanks again for getting back and answering my questions, renntech has been a great resource. V

Oh ok ..so the oil caused the flywheel to fail. Thanks for the response.

Hi all, Pulled my trans off 08 Boxster (you can do it without removing the muffler!!) and got at my RMS which I suspected was leaking now I'm not sure. There is some residue at the bottom of the RMS seal but tons of what appears to be grease around the IMS cover. I imagine the best thing to do is the RMS and a new IMS cover and gasket. Also... pulled my Flywheel off, did the test where you move it in both directions and see if it springs back. Well it definitely moves both ways 1/2 inch or so but does not spring back at all. There were no clutch issues. The car only has 42,000 miles on it seems premature for a FW to go. What say all. Thanks V pics

Ok....well maybe I'll be making history here....I'll let you know. V

Update....History made...pulled the trans with mufflers in!!

Hi All, So I started pulling parts off to remove my 5 speed man.tranny and I'm trying to avoid taking the mufflers off.....not too sure if its necessary. The bolts are up and behind the pre cats and are rusted and rounded and not easily accessible. So...I removed the muffler bracket from the back of the trans and from the mufflers. Gives me about 5 inches to pull the trans back and drop it. It will also clear the crossmember that sits right below the trans. I can give myself way more room if I remove the c clamps and remove the muffler tip but not sure if thats entirely necessary either. Thoughts?? Thanks V 

OK, Which tensioners are removed(forgot) ...and just replace the IMS flange 'as is' or do i need to replace a gasket. Thanks Vince