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vza

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Posts posted by vza

  1. OK ...so I'm good (in reference to losing the match on the links) not too sure what 'n' means.(crank rotations?) Ah ...Cam reluctor? Is that the tab that the sensor reads? Well the tool is another story. I had the simpler tool that pelican shows in their dIY couldn't get it to fit in and bolt on either bank called manufacturer and they said they had machining and spec issues with some batches ,sent another ….same thing ,then ordered the tool you pictured and I just couldn't get it in with the engine installed ...too big. So...I scribed a line to the outside of the Puck(from 1st tool) that drops in so I can line it up with the cam cover seam and eyeballed it. I mean I was so meticulous with this step and if there is any error its by a millimeter I was sure I was dead on (worked on bank 2 with 0 deviation) unless of course it slipped . I'll check it and see ...I mean I don't plan on pulling the cam cover off again ...just the scavenge pump(which was very difficult to get back In without backing off on a few cam cover bolts in the area) to re-do timing. Thanks again for the and your help.hopfully get this fixed. v

  2. OK ...well the chain marked links I have something to say about that. When I timed the banks after I had the cams out to replace 1 solenoid and all the pads this is what happened. I recall it happening on both banks. Had the cams on my bench, lined up the dimples with the colored links, got the actuator back in between cams reinstalled cams with colored links still lined up(was very meticulous about this) set timing and torqued up the sprocket nuts...colored links were still good. Rotated the engine few times...colored links moved but the timing still appeared good. TDC, notch on intake and exhaust cam stilled lined up. To be safe I tore it down again....ugh. Repeated the entire procedure but marked sprocket and links with nail polish so I could eyeball it from any angle. Re-installed everything,rotated the engine few times and it happen AGAIN, it all appeared to line up but the colored links moved again. I was able to count the links between the dimples and it was the same amount as between the colored links(I believe it was 6 links don't recall) I posted what happened here or rennlist and got a response that this was normal...so I went with it. Started the car and got a nasty knock in bank 2 (which is what I just described) ran it for a while and revved engine some cause some said the tappets weren't pumped up. Turns out I lost timing on bank 2 (exhaust cam was no longer lined up) I took the scavenge pump off loosened bolts on sprocket nudged it and lined it up, checked the number of links between dimples(colored ones were still off) closed everything up....knock was gone. I could never figure how the colored links could move and still have the same amount of links line up with the dimples. I know this a long post but I really hope that I'm explaining it so you can understand. The colored links moved on Bank 1 as well if I recall...I wound up counting them as well. I didn't use the Porsche chain tensioner tool that supposed to put pre-tension on the chain. Just used the tensioner.Thanks for reading thru all of this. v

  3. Hi all, Well got my Durametric on today...Seems that I have -15 degrees deviation on Bank 1.Bank 2 reads 0 deviation. I think my fuel trims look ok (just a guess,didn't find an option for RKAT) somehow they didn't move at all when at 2500 rpm's. I activated both Actuators and heard a engine note change so I believe they're both working.I disabled my injectors one at a time and noticed there was more of a change in engine note with 4-5 and 6,not much change when 1-2 and 3 were disabled. How do I monitor misfires in real time?? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks V 

    Dura2.jpg

  4. OK, Swapped sides with coils and cleared CEL. Got another CEL half hr into the drive. The same misfires on Cylinders 1-2-3. So I guess its not the coils. Part #'s on the all the coils were the same with the exception of THA3 (on 3 of them) and HEB3 (on the other 3) not sure if thats relevant. Codes are as follows:

     

    P0300 Misfire damage to TWC               Pending Codes:   P1313   All Misfires 1-2-3 

    P0301 Misfire 1 Cat damage                                                  P1314

    P0302 Misfire 2 "        "                                                             P1315

    P0303 Misfire 3 "        "                                                             P1319  Misfire emission relevant

     

    Any ideas: vacum leak/knock sensor/ flywheel or cam sensor??

    Thanks...

  5. Yeah pretty much....went to him once....said Bank 1 was compensating for no actuator in Bank 2, advised me to replace the bank 2 actuator and if that didn't work the engine would need a tear down to check for bent valves!! I've been to 2 indies and they both didn't want to deal .....said it would be very expensive going forward but no one really gave me a diagnosis.Wasn't very helpful. V

  6. Yes, I agree Bank 2 didn't activate cause of the failed but now fixed DME. Would he(indie) have them stored or should I confirm he said -19 degrees or you would want to see what it's saying now(a new scan), maybe time for a durametric, I called today to see if they had a refurbished one, they occasionally get one in.

  7. No only the pads or ramps on Bank 1. Solenoid and pads on Bank 2. When I brought it to indie before the DME fix he said the the actuator on 2 was not moving. Said Bank 1 had -19 Degree timing and Bank 2 had 0. Not sure if that helps. V

  8. When doing the work I initially had the timing slip on bank 1 had a nasty tapping sound. Unfortunately I listened to some people that said it was deflated tappets so I let it idle and revved it. Any way I re-did the timing and checked compression on that side and got 195's so I'm hopeful its not valves. After replacing the solenoid I repeatedly got misfires everywhere ...both sides ,bank 1 then bank 2 and a remaining p1539. After the DME fix its down to 3 cyl.misfires on bank1 as it stands now.

  9. I did have them out in the past and checked them, they were the updated ones w larger heat sinks, didn't see any cracks and checked ohms seemed good. Drove again today ….why does the codes change now I have 301 302 303 instead of 1313 1314 1315 I never cleared anything...thanks v

  10. OK...All systems were set during my drive with the exception of secondary air and evap.. BUT...I threw a CEL cleared it got another.

    P1313

    P1314

    P1314

    P1319

    I guess all misfires bank 1. Emission relevant. Not too sure what to do now. Already replaced MAF/AOS/Plugs/Solenoid Bank 2/Actuator ramps Bank 1 and 2/Fuel Filter/Batt.

    The money evaporator is working at it's highest capacity....:wacko:

  11. Not disagreeing, but wouldn't it have been reset when it was rebuilt. I reinstalled it with the bat. disconnected. I'm only saying this cause the OBDII is still saying some systems still aren't ready so I want to drive it enough so I can get it to inspection. The inspection station said I have to drive 400 miles in order for the systems to ready themselves....(dosen't seem accurate to me) so I don't want to have to start at square 1 by a reset.(I'm gona get caught sooner or later with a failed sticker) The pending faults came up about half hr into the drive when checking randomly.

  12. Yes, It always flagged me with the P1539 before the fix. Now different codes relating to rich mix and primary coil?? I don't have a durametric only using the generic OBDII reader. Should I reset it or wait and see if it throws a CEL. These were pending codes only....no CEL as of yet! Thanks V

  13. Put rebuilt DME back in and drove for an hour or so. No CEL yet, however I have some pending codes. Didn't record them,had to do with fuel trims. I did monitor STFT and they were bouncing around a bit at idle but more or less pretty the same between 2 banks under load. Hoping the pending codes will never throw a CEL and I'm good. Are the pending codes just until the DME learns the trims...so to speak. Thanks v

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