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vza

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Posts posted by vza


  1. Well I believe he said the solenoid was firing.....not too sure how he would know. If there is no active ground in the plug are you just going to ground on any part of the car to see 12v? How would you test the ground coming from DME inside the plug(connecter)? Would there be a visual inside the DME (burnt/char or smell?) Well I know its not the solenoid its new, just wondering about the transistor....that would be an easy fix rather than pulling the cam cover. Is it common for  these transitors to go?? V


  2. 99 Boxster Base...After new Bank 2 solenoid/ MAF/ AOS/Battery/Plugs/Actuator Ramps both banks,I'm right where I started CEL P1539 and some misfire codes here and there...Brought  to indie....said bent valves/actuator or timing....bailed on me....car is now at another indie. Any thoughts....car actually runs and sounds well with a little lacking in pickup. Any thoughts??


  3. Ok, I rewired my headlamp harnesses  and all my lights/ fog lights are working as they should. So new headlamp switch is not needed. I did notice the color or intensity is different between my 2 xenon low beams. I read that 1 may not be level with the other. Is this true seems to make sense being if I look into the beams at different angles they both look the same color. thanks v   


  4. 99 boxster base..When turning on the fog lamps the manual says to pull the knob to the 1st position for the fronts and 2nd position for the rear. Is the knob supposed to remain in the pulled out position, mine returns back to the normal position so essentially my fog lights only stay on when holding the knob...Just confirming I need a new lamp switch thanks v


  5. 99 boxster...previous owner upgraded the hibeam to xenon available from pelican. Lowbeam is still the H7 halogen.Any reason I shouldn't rewire it for xenon on the lowbeam? Makes more sense considering the lowbeam is used more frequently when driving. thanks v


  6. 99 Bosxter Base...I need to replace the dome light assembly because of a  bad micro switch(windows don't fully close). So... I have a replacement but its a 2001 I believe. It has a nicer  fixed dome light not the rickety one in the 99. Of course it has a different size connecter. The other connecters for the micro switch and infra red are the same. Was thinking of just fabricating a new harness. There are only 3 pins. I assume 1 common ground and 1 switched and 1 for continuous. Couldn't find the schematics in the factory serve. manual. Any thoughts about this. Thanks .....Hate that rickety one....ugh


  7. Not a pro but it may be the AOS ....you can check the tubes coming off the AOS, if there's a good amount of oil there you might consider replacing it. The tube thats running under the driver's side intake is the longer tube that attaches to AOS. The upper dip stick tube can be easily replaced(replace it after you do the AOS cause you will break it again) it just snaps on. The dipstick is weird with mains as well. You sort of have to twist it as your putting in down in the tube. Good luck. v


  8. Hi Loren, Codes as follows: PO304            1313      P1539

                                                      PO305            1314

                                                      PO306            1315

     

     I replaced the Plugs/ AOS/ MAF/Fuel Filter/Battery/Solenoid on Bank 2/Actuator Ramps on both banks/ I don't have a Durametric.  Codes have been bouncing back and forth from bank to bank. The codes above both appeared as CEL's and Pending at one time or another. The latest I replaced a weak and failing battery and thought I resolved it but about a half hr into a drive I get a CEL. For the most part the car was only at idle and not driven after all the work was done. Initially the original CEL was a P1539 that's why I replaced the solenoid(tested the solenoid for proper resistance and it failed took a chance and replaced solenoid only ) I recently got plates for it and drove about 40 miles after I replaced the Batt and thought I was good. Lately I've been clearing the codes to see if the DME will learn new Fuel Trim and I've been watching that...I got to the point where I brought it to an indie to pinpoint the problem and that's who told me to check the Coils before I brought it in. Could be a vacuum leak but not finding one.....knock sensors?? Be nice to drive it when the Spring comes!! Thanks V


  9. OK ....getting .7 at the primary a little less than 1800 ohms on the plug connectors. Someone else said 5-7.2 K ohms between terminals 1 and 4 I'm getting 0. Pelican says 600 ohms on the secondary.... a little confused. Do you know anything about this. Just asking, want to be sure they're good before moving on into the misfire madness. Thanks V


  10. Long story short. Did a bunch of work taking the cams out,replacing solenoid, IMS RMS,Clutch FW..... ran the car w/ lost timing....etc... Then had CEL for misfires, changed the MAF....misfires went over to the other bank. Then...I replaced my weak battery and haven' t thrown a CEL yet. I do however have pendings for misfires. Is it reasonable to say  I'm in the clear and solved my problem and DME just has to relearn the fuel trims? Engine sounds great.... revved to 5000RPM's to burp engine after a coolant change and this where it always threw a CEL when revving. But none so far.Thanks V


  11. WOW...I replaced my weak battery. Engine ran good...changed coolant and had to rev to 5000 RPMS  to 'burp" the engine.....no CEL. Could it have really been the battery!!!

     

    Does any one know what the fuel trim should be at idle. I'm using Torque Lite and looking at fuel trim for banks 1 and 2 sensor 1. Mine both read -24% at idle and went toward 0% when revved. Thanks....very happy so far with the outcome ....hope it stays that way. V

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