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vza

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Posts posted by vza


  1. 99 Bosxter Base...I need to replace the dome light assembly because of a  bad micro switch(windows don't fully close). So... I have a replacement but its a 2001 I believe. It has a nicer  fixed dome light not the rickety one in the 99. Of course it has a different size connecter. The other connecters for the micro switch and infra red are the same. Was thinking of just fabricating a new harness. There are only 3 pins. I assume 1 common ground and 1 switched and 1 for continuous. Couldn't find the schematics in the factory serve. manual. Any thoughts about this. Thanks .....Hate that rickety one....ugh


  2. Not a pro but it may be the AOS ....you can check the tubes coming off the AOS, if there's a good amount of oil there you might consider replacing it. The tube thats running under the driver's side intake is the longer tube that attaches to AOS. The upper dip stick tube can be easily replaced(replace it after you do the AOS cause you will break it again) it just snaps on. The dipstick is weird with mains as well. You sort of have to twist it as your putting in down in the tube. Good luck. v


  3. Hi Loren, Codes as follows: PO304            1313      P1539

                                                      PO305            1314

                                                      PO306            1315

     

     I replaced the Plugs/ AOS/ MAF/Fuel Filter/Battery/Solenoid on Bank 2/Actuator Ramps on both banks/ I don't have a Durametric.  Codes have been bouncing back and forth from bank to bank. The codes above both appeared as CEL's and Pending at one time or another. The latest I replaced a weak and failing battery and thought I resolved it but about a half hr into a drive I get a CEL. For the most part the car was only at idle and not driven after all the work was done. Initially the original CEL was a P1539 that's why I replaced the solenoid(tested the solenoid for proper resistance and it failed took a chance and replaced solenoid only ) I recently got plates for it and drove about 40 miles after I replaced the Batt and thought I was good. Lately I've been clearing the codes to see if the DME will learn new Fuel Trim and I've been watching that...I got to the point where I brought it to an indie to pinpoint the problem and that's who told me to check the Coils before I brought it in. Could be a vacuum leak but not finding one.....knock sensors?? Be nice to drive it when the Spring comes!! Thanks V


  4. OK ....getting .7 at the primary a little less than 1800 ohms on the plug connectors. Someone else said 5-7.2 K ohms between terminals 1 and 4 I'm getting 0. Pelican says 600 ohms on the secondary.... a little confused. Do you know anything about this. Just asking, want to be sure they're good before moving on into the misfire madness. Thanks V


  5. Long story short. Did a bunch of work taking the cams out,replacing solenoid, IMS RMS,Clutch FW..... ran the car w/ lost timing....etc... Then had CEL for misfires, changed the MAF....misfires went over to the other bank. Then...I replaced my weak battery and haven' t thrown a CEL yet. I do however have pendings for misfires. Is it reasonable to say  I'm in the clear and solved my problem and DME just has to relearn the fuel trims? Engine sounds great.... revved to 5000RPM's to burp engine after a coolant change and this where it always threw a CEL when revving. But none so far.Thanks V


  6. WOW...I replaced my weak battery. Engine ran good...changed coolant and had to rev to 5000 RPMS  to 'burp" the engine.....no CEL. Could it have really been the battery!!!

     

    Does any one know what the fuel trim should be at idle. I'm using Torque Lite and looking at fuel trim for banks 1 and 2 sensor 1. Mine both read -24% at idle and went toward 0% when revved. Thanks....very happy so far with the outcome ....hope it stays that way. V


  7. Well....Got rid of exhaust leaks,Installed new MAF ...no stalls at start up....no misfires on 4-5 or 6 anymore....no o2 codes. NOW I'm getting misfires on 1-2 and 3 which I never got before.Codes are as follows:

    P1319

    P1313

    P1314

    P1315

    Misfires on 1-2 and 3 Emission relevant.  Can I drive to a mechanic or should I flatbed it?? Fuel trim bouncing around Bank 1  -0.8 to -1.6  Bank 2  0.08 to 1.6 that was using Torque Light. Got some other strange Codes with torque light Cam Shaft Pos A plausable BMW. Don't know what the Fuel trim should be....does this mean one bank is rich and the other lean?? Any good indies in Northern Bergen County NJ?? Thanks V


  8. OK...more info. Swapped out plugs for OEM, and noticed 1 plug in bank 2 looked as if it were never installed, pristine, leads me to believe no gas or spark is getting to the cylinder(dah... didn't note which cylinder it was,noticed after the fact). Found 2 leaks in the exhaust, 1 where end of cat is clamped to muffler pipe(just need to tighten the clamp) the other is a small hole in the cat right at the O2 sensor seam, Bank 2. Started it up with ruff running at first but sounded ok after a minute...revved a bit and got a misfire/pop sound but no CEL. Checked Code reader and got a P0130 and P0150 pending for the 02 pre cats. Compression test as follows:
    Bank 1 145/150/150 starting with Cyl closet to front.
    Bank 2 195/195/180 starting with Cyl closet to front. At first I thought this wasn't that bad considering there close relative to the banks. But not too sure. What next?? Thanks V
     

  9. I have the same issue. Misfire codes on 4-5-6. Cleared codes now have pending codes as the same. This is after replacing Bank 2 Solenoid...Bank 1 lost timing but was re-timed. Both banks timed, New  AOS, IMS, RMS,Fly,Clutch, now I can't drive it!! Ran better with disconnected MAF so I'm going to try a new one. Started a thread which explains all. Thanks V

     


  10. I checked the electrical connectors for bank 2 which I did have off at one point ...they were good. Checked for vacuum leaks, was able to tighten up the tubes going to plenem, leads going to correct plugs. Car was idling ruff ...lots of stalls, low idle 500 rpm's. Then it remained running at about 1000rpm's or so. Removed oil cap w no change,removed AOS tube....stalled. AOS is new. Disconnected MAF and car ran better, revved it sounded good. Didn't run good when re-connected, heard a sound like hitting a spoon on a pot when revved. I assume a misfire. No CEL, I have a weak batt so many times I have to do a quick charge to start, so previous CEL's were cleared. Put code reader on although there was no CEL and there were pending misfires on 4-5-6 and emission relevant but CEL never came on! I'm stumped at this point. I might try swapping out the IRIDIUM plugs to OEM. I did not gap the plugs ,from what I understand they are pre-gapped .8 mm. Don't have a durametric so can't read Cam Deviation. It sounded and revved better w/o MAF but I don't know if I want to start replacing everything and chasing my tail unless I'm sure. I did have the snorkel out and cleaned it on the outside, I did touch the MAF with my finger to see if it was dirty. Then of course read not to touch it. Please chime in. Again, I'm concerned mostly with the possibility of bending valves when I was running it with lost timing but I'm really thinking it is a different issue now. thanks v


  11. Yes I did finally get a reading on the dipstick before I started the engine. The timing did indeed slip, was off on bank 1 where the noise was. Was not a pleasant sound,,thought maybe it was the tappets so I ran the engine with some revs to pump up the tappets(idle only with some revving). Then realized the timing slipped.Reset the timing, fired it up and sounded fine ..noise gone BUT..idled up to temp thru a blinking CEL then it changed to a solid CEL. Codes were;

    Po300

    Po 304-5 and 6

    Po 150

    Confusing why it's showing misfire on cyl 4 5 and 6 when the noise and timing issue was on cylinders 1 2 and 3 (bank 1). If I bent anything up shouldn't it be misfiring on bank 1? This is making me hopeful that maybe I didn't cause any head damage by running the engine with the tapping noise thinking maybe I had to pump up the tappets. I installed NGK IRIDIUM plugs should I switch to OEM plugs, I'm going to double check coil pack connections maybe I crossed them but I don't think the wire length would allow that. I also replaced the 10w-40 with 0w-40. The Po150 code is o2 for bank 1. Any idea where to go from here? Please chime in. v


  12. Hi All, 99 boxster base. Just buttoned up the engine after replacing chain ramps and vario solenoid, RMS,IMS,AOS. Well.. now I have a noticeable tick /tap which sounds like its coming from the cylinder head. I also never got any oil reading on the dipstick after adding almost 8 quarts of oil....where did it go? I ran the engine on and off for about 5 mins. Was afraid it might be a timing issue but was meticulous in checking and rechecking cam position and allocation so I'm hesitant to let it run for fear of doing any damage.(if it's not done already) Used Castrol 10w-40 synth blend. Very upset ….hope I didn't totally bend my engine all up. Any thoughts very much appreciated. thanks v


  13. Hi, Doing my clutch and new DM flywheel on 99 boxster base.Few questions.

    Torque for flywheel factory manual says 18 ft lbs + 90 degrees Bentley says 19+120 degrees think I'm gona go w factory manual..???

    Torque for 3 bolts for throw out bearing guide tube Bentley has nothing factory manual says 26 ft lbs I went with this and used Loctite wicking threadlock

    Factory manual says only grease input spline does anything else need to be greased in there??
     

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