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JE 17

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Everything posted by JE 17

  1. Ignition switches are a known problem. I have a spare sitting on the shelf for "jes sech an occurance" as Foghorn Leghorn would say.
  2. I was on my way across the Mississippi to get gas in Missouri (Illinois taxes you know.) I had just gotten on the bridge, accelerating uphill, not hard as I was behind one of those slow non-turbo dronemobiles when I heard a bang, then a grinding noise. At first, I thought I had run over something, but I never saw anything. So I slowed to a crawl over the bridge until there was a safe place to pull over. I couldn't see anything, and it was running fine. So I rolled down to a gas station, got out my flashlight and tried to see what was wrong. No luck, so I called for a tow. Now this is really aggravating, but since I no longer have a property with a lift, I had to send it to a shop. They called the next day to tell me it appeared that a circlip holding this shaft had failed, and the shaft had pulled out of the transfer case. Now, in searching several forums, I didn't find anyone else with this problem yet he says it's common. In fact, it's so common, there are about seven upgrades of this circlip. A $16-some-dollar circlip! Oh yeah, and a driveshaft. $1700 there, though I found it on FCP for $1200. You must expect some problems at 115,000 miles, but I'm just happy I was a mile from town instead of the middle of I-80 in Nebraska or somewhere else fun!
  3. I don't have experience with that particular one, but having worked on my Cayenne Turbo and Boxsters, it is probably a squeeze job. They are usually placed so that you really can't get a good grip and some leverage, of course. But looking at that one, I would say you apply pressure to the ribbed areas to release. You might need to push inward at the same time to get it to release.
  4. You probably don't want to try changing the PDK fluid. I do most work myself on my Boxster, Cayenne and 911, but that requires some specifics in the Porsche diagnostic computer that I don't possess. And I've changed engines and all the suspension, so I'm not really averse to much!
  5. Perhaps disconnecting the battery would help. I recall here somewhere that positions need to be relearned after replacing a battery.
  6. Mine actually comes on by itself! I wish it would shut off most of the time! I'd rather hear the engine.
  7. Additional update. Several months have passed and no additional problems. I do get a "check left side marker" warning that is new, but it goes away. So I'll just wait until fall when the garage is under 90 and remove the seat to take a closer look---or why poke the bear?
  8. I have a new concern. After enduring this situation (https://tinyurl.com/this-trying-situation) I now notice the steering column itself being warm, very warm. I didn't get a reading on it, but you don't want to touch it long. And no, steering wheel heat wasn't on when discovered. Ideas?
  9. A small update. I lifted the carpet and checked the wiring, finding no obvious breaks. When I have more time (replacing HVAC fan in this one, Boxster oil change due, and going over new purchase) I'll take the seat out to get better access. But interestingly, have had no further problems after poking around the wire tray. I wonder if further investigation will show something loose in there. I will stay with it and keep you informed of any findings.
  10. Please, please! You are making my head hurt. This is why we use punctuation: to better communicate.
  11. That seems like a good suggestion. I got the warning signs again last night; "headlight control" and "stop/start disabled," yet it didn't lose the MFD or instruments. Curiously, the voltage was reading in the mid-mid-thirteens, which is when the problem usually occurs. If it's up in the 14s, there is no dropout. I'll try to do this, but it may be tough to accomplish as I'm about to move 1000 miles!
  12. Checked battery ground at the terminal, and just for good measure, gave it a Deoxit dose. I haven't driven it a lot since, so I don't know if that was helpful. The terminal was not loose, though. I will try to find the other end when I am able to put it in the air on my hoist.
  13. Just did this yesterday and there were some differences on my 2011 Turbo. The cover is held by a T20 Torx. And the filter door is held by another of the same dimension. But it went very easy, and I'm glad I took the effort. At 105,000 miles, that filter was loaded!
  14. The battery is one year old, and I just had it tested two weeks ago by Interstate for another issue. Could this be an alternator or regulator issue? I should add, the alternator was tested as well.
  15. Made it home without further trouble. When we stopped overnight in downtown Lincoln, a check engine light popped up. There were no indications of poor running, and it disappeared after one gas stop. I did notice every time the display died, the voltage was in the mid-thirteens. Most of the way back today, some 700 miles, it stayed around 14.7, and there were no problems.
  16. No. Did it again without lights. First indicator is "start/stop disabled" followed by "headlight control fault."
  17. Have no code reader with me. Drove today, and had a check engine light, which went out eventually. I'm thinking the light switch may be the problem.
  18. 1000 miles from my home (and tools) my 2011 Cayenne turbo misbehaves. Headlights quit, instruments and all controls, including MFD and suspension controls go dark, while wipers start. I can't turn them off. Engine continues fine. Then, it all comes back. We repeat this several times as we drive through town. One time a check engine light came on, though it didn't repeat. Preset memory wasn't lost. Research points to a ground problem. I did access the battery after an incident on the last trip traced to a bad connection on the right rear shock, which gave the the chassis system failure warning. Anyway, no problems for 1000 miles until now. Research points to a ground problem. I have no tools to check battery connections, though I specifically recall tightening the connections. So, any other ground points I should check, requiring no tools?
  19. Along these lines, I have a 2011 Turbo which, during a long trip, gave me the chassis system failure warning. We had been using the seat heat, and when this appeared, the headlights had come on. I have since noted by charging the battery (which has been tested) the message disappears--for a short time, until the battery depletes again. I also had the alternator tested, and it appeared good. I tried the "sport mode" but it still loses charge, down to 65% or about 12.2 volts. What am I missing here?
  20. All new plugs and coils cured all. That wasn't the easiest plug change I've done. My Boxster is far easier!
  21. Finally got it on the Durametric: misfires in Cylinders 3 &7. I'm not a big fan of throwing parts but with that diagnosis I've ordered all new coils and plugs. I still don't see why the PSM failure and stop/start were activated. Once I can drive again, I will get the battery tested, though it's only 10 months old, I know they can still fail.
  22. 2011 Turbo which just turned 100k miles. Twice in the last two weeks, I had the check engine light illuminate. At the same time, the PSM light accompanied it. I tested with both my Carly and Durametric and found no codes. Two or three starts later, the PSM light went out, followed by the engine light. The only symptom was at one time, the engine seemed a little rough, but as I said, I didn't see any codes. Both times, temperatures were in the teens to low twenties, and the engine was warm when the lights appeared after a restart. Connector issue somewhere?
  23. As an update, it seems the owner's manual is more helpful than I thought. Though I always read them, it somehow escaped me that every personal setting in the car, seats, MFD, mirrors and radio, are linked to the memory settings on the keys. Pushing the "1" button restored everything.
  24. 2011 Turbo at about 93k miles. I hadn't driven for a few days, and noticed the whole vehicle had settled more than usual. ( I know I have an air leak in the RF shock and replacement is scheduled.) But when I opened the door, I didn't hear the pump run or see the front rise. I scanned with Carly and Durametric and found nothing wrong. I took my tools back to the shop and decided to start it. I put it in reverse and backed out of the garage, and the suspension pumped up. I went for a drive and discovered many settings were lost. The last two satellite stations I stored were gone. The speedo was reading kph, and liters per kilometer in the display, along with pressures in bar. My first thought is battery, though it's only 6 months old. But it shows 12.7 with engine off, 14.3 running. Could this be a connector corrosion problem? It came from Canada, then resided in Florida for some time, and there is some rust on the subframes I've been attacking.
  25. After a second look, the tech discovered some recalibration menus missed the first time through. All is well now.
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