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roberta berks
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Posts posted by roberta berks
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3 hours ago, JFP in PA said:
Not likely.
Sure...I should mention this fast crank no start problem has happened before.But I let the car sit an hour came back and starts up and runs great no knocks pings backfires etc..which is why I'm leaning towards electrical?Any thoughts are appreciated..(i have no leaking water issues in foot well and have checked the wiring down there both sides)
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44 minutes ago, JFP in PA said:
It doesn't have to be hot to get some idea of the compression, and I know of no electrical/electronic systems that would do this, it sounds mechanical...…………...
Sure thanks.I thought that too.Read Pelican Parts website explaining car needs to be warmed up first for proper readings...But I still am leaning towards a gremlin electrical connector.Ive had plenty of them on this car.Would PSM warning light on before this ultimately shut down the vehicle for dealer mode?
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2 hours ago, JFP in PA said:
Quick way to find out is to run a compression test...….
I cant get the engine warm to get a proper test if it will not start? Also it sure sounds like a fast spinning no compression engine but the question is what electrical components/modules not working properly would create this fast spin?
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2 hours ago, RFM said:
Electronics have nothing to do with higher crank speed, only a compression problem or the use of a starting aid powered with higher than the usual 12/14 volt can cause this phenomenon IMO. In that case you have a serious problem with the electronic components, at least i hope not.
Yes I did replace some electronic modules already that were corroded from the humidity here.Which is why Im leaning towards something electrical again that may cause this non communication to start car with the fast crank.I don't see how a strong motor with 45k miles can all of a sudden have a valve issue or something more mechanical.Something electric not connecting all the dots and shutting something down?
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9 hours ago, RFM said:
This is normal Cayenne behavior, once the key has been brought into crank position it can be released, either the engine starts immediately or the starter motor will stop on a timer (appr. 5-6 sec.) without holding the key. A faster starting speed on engines in good condition, indicates compression loss in general, after a longer standstill as 6 month and more, valve pollution is usually the cause. This can not always be determined with a compression measurement, a cylinder leak test is more appropriate.
Thanks.The key sticks and cranks without me holding the key which Ive never seen before.The car has only 45k miles.Ran strong before this.Now fast crank without start.I don't have special testers,what do you suggest I start with that makes sense?Would an alarm or kessy module problem relate to this fast no compression crank?
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Will not start.Cranks faster than usual and key sticks in ignition cranking without touching it after turning key and then letting go of key.Car sits for months at a time on a battery tender.Ran fine before this issue.Pulled fuel pump fuse to start the secondary pump first, still same issue.Any help here would be appreciated greatly!
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4 hours ago, lewisweller said:
Kessy module is under the dash just up above the accelerator pedal. I think the module next to the rear comfort control module is the level control module?
Sure.May look at Kessy connectors for corrosion since its easier to look at first. No air suspension in this car.Appreciate the help !
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1 hour ago, lewisweller said:
I would have thought it wouldn't crank if the immobilizer was the issue? Not quite sure.
I'm still not sold on it not being a fuel issue perhaps. Really only testing and ruling out things will get you closer to the cause without fault codes to help guide you.
Right.Since the car has only 45k miles and runs great when it does run without symptoms or faults,I'm leaning towards some little connector that's corroded from sitting in humid Florida.It was that when I swapped out the rear convenience module a few months ago after gremlins started appearing and fixed without a dura or piwis.Maybe alarm module since it sits on top of rear convenience,I dont know.Real PITA vehicle.
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16 hours ago, lewisweller said:
Fuel pressure is a possibility. There is a fuel pressure regulator which is supposed to hold 3 bar after ten minutes when engine is stopped IIRC, if that fails you go to crank and don't have any fuel pressure available, hence long crank to build pressure then it starts. I remember also the fuel filter has a non return valve in it which can fail. Also fuel pumps are notorious for being a pain, weak pumps, leaky pipes, clogged suction screens etc etc. I've been inside my tank a few times and replaced all these items on my 06 ctt when I had it.
Testing fuel pressure requires a fuel pressure test kit with correct Schrader fittings and a specific procedure.
16 hours ago, lewisweller said:Fuel pressure is a possibility. There is a fuel pressure regulator which is supposed to hold 3 bar after ten minutes when engine is stopped IIRC, if that fails you go to crank and don't have any fuel pressure available, hence long crank to build pressure then it starts. I remember also the fuel filter has a non return valve in it which can fail. Also fuel pumps are notorious for being a pain, weak pumps, leaky pipes, clogged suction screens etc etc. I've been inside my tank a few times and replaced all these items on my 06 ctt when I had it.
Testing fuel pressure requires a fuel pressure test kit with correct Schrader fittings and a specific procedure.
Sure, thank you.It does not show symptoms of hesitation or start for a second then die out that usually relates to fuel problem.(when running). Just intermediate fast crank like the key is not recognized (tried both keys). Some electrical gremlin again perhaps?That is all Ive had with this car.Car does sit for months at a time.Any other thoughts are appreciated!
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Sure, thank you.It does not show symptoms of hesitation or start for a second then die out that usually relates to fuel problem.(when running). Just intermediate fast crank like the key is not recognized (tried both keys). Some electrical gremlin again perhaps?That is all Ive had with this car.Car does sit for months at a time.Any other thoughts are appreciated!
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1 hour ago, lewisweller said:
Ran great (past tense) or stills runs great (when it starts)?
A list of possibilities but yes a good running low mileage engine shouldn't have these problems.
Got any fault codes?
The symptoms are too vague to narrow down a cause yet.
Thanks.Runs great when it starts.No fault codes.
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What would cause low compression on a 45k mile Cayenne that ran great?
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Have a problem once and a while when car sits for a month or so.I come back to it a couple times and sometimes it finally it starts.New battery and new key battery's. No second trunk battery.Seems like it cranks faster too.Key programming?
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Trying to erase some codes (brake pads,ABS, and ! )that Ive fixed..whats a cheap scan tool to erase them please?
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thanks..why isnt there a class action with these leaks that drip directly to critical electrical components and modules? I mean coolant pipes where bad enough but this too?Its all guided back to the service department with a PIWIS then Dog walk you to the bank.
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Thanks..just pried corners and pulled up seemed ok but the wires underneath,wow what great engineering..
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1 minute ago, JFP in PA said:
Not necessarily, modules sometimes have to be recoded and they come back online, but not always. Sometimes they are just dead.
Makes sense..I did change my battery maybe it went offline..
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32 minutes ago, JFP in PA said:
In a word, no. It requires a PIWIS system.
Thanks...Ive had it checked and PIWIS says rear convenience system control module "no signal or communication"..so Im assuming after I have inspected all wires going to that rear module from dash under seats to c pillar and they all look good ,that I need a new module in your experience?
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Is there any way other than going to dealer with a PIWIS, to program a used rear convenience module to a 06 Cayenne S? Any way to test mine without a PIWIS? Open it up repair etc? mine is not communicating...Thanks much
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2 hours ago, Chris Gimpel said:
Check out this thread.
Sunroof drain - 6SpeedOnline - Porsche Forum and Luxury Car Resource
WWW.6SPEEDONLINE.COM
Cayenne Turbo - Sunroof drain - I Know this is discussed 1000 Times . Problem with clogged drains. Acces from The sunroof is easy. But i would like to Know where are this tubes ending. Where is the Exit. Somewhere in...
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThanks !
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Im about to spread clear silicone around mine..could care less at this frustrating point..
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Trying to locate drain locations of each..my rear convenience module will not communicate (suspecting water leak in its area from roof?)and I have wet passenger footwell wires under passenger carpet..no breaks in wiring under carpet.but rusty area on the firewall next to fusebox..any help out there please?
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06 Cayenne S Passenger floor wet..Pressed plug behind front passenger wheelwell and no water came out..but rust has formed above and to the right of the fuse box (pic)..the wet wires start just below the fuse box about a foot up from floor in the passenger footwell..ac drain hose is empty..Is this a sunroof leak? Wires on floor are sitting in water all the way under the seat..pulled seat no copper dust wiring connections from firewall and fuse box to rear of passenger seat..the rear convenience module problem is not communicating..is that possible just due to wet wiring?any tips are greatly appreciated!
South Florida dealer alternative referrals?
in 9YA (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne S Hybrid)
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Cayenne cranks fast no start anybody know of any dealer alternative shop that's not overpriced in the Southeast Fl region?