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Turboflyer

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Posts posted by Turboflyer

  1. Joining this late , but what is a clock spring? 
    I have serviced my 986s twice , once at 60k and again at 120 k. Now getting the P0740 TC solenoid code 122k. So I though ok maybe I didn’t fill correctly. Easy fix. After    Reaching temp , topped off , very little needed, ran through the gears. Which cannot be done with the brake depressed, applied brake, Put in park, removed fill plug. Was surprised having a positive pressure and fluid puked out momentarily. Don’t ever recall that scenario. Did find some very shiny tiny metal particles in the fluid will have to check for type of metal today. Hope you can help.

  2. I ran across this post. What timing. Hope some one is still on it. Been dealing with the 0740 torque converter lock up code.  Since I am in Ca. It will not pass smog. Car runs great. It’s an O1 986 S. Have had it almost 20 years. I too love this car. I think I found the part number  for the solenoid but not sure.  986 325 601 00. Getting up there  in years so the getting at is getting tougher, but doable. Would appreciate any help given. I see from this post the part number I have was incorrect,  but which one is it? ABCDEF or G?

  3. Thanks. That is the line I have waiting to put in. I am just trying to make sense of when the problem occurs. It is only when gas is added. I do not think the vehicle can tell that Fuel has been added since the key is off at fueling. Further when I get home I always add fuel additive after shut down and the car starts fine. I tried just letting the car run since the engine is in the back. It never likes that. So what initiates the leak test?  Again thanks for taking the time to help.

  4. I have poured through countless threads of code 95, canister shutoff valve. The problem I am having is only after fueling and it does not matter if it is 5 gallons or full. Car will not start without holding gas pedal to the floor and cranking about 5 seconds plus. Did the canister , car is an 01 986 S.  I do have a purge valve if it goes into the large plastic box forward and up in the passenger fender well. Just seems very odd it does not do it every time I start. I can literally go through many starts until fueling time with no problem at all. I also purchase the line and valve that gown under the intake manifold but I am just shooting in the dark. Hope someone has experienced the same thing and is willing to help. Thanks 

  5. I have heard that the oil can be sucked out instead of removing the cover plate. On a Tip it is a PITA. I have done it once that way. Is there a link to how its done successfully? Not a lot of room between the splash shield. I even bought of drilling and taping the bottom. 

  6. Well I knew it would be a big job but it needs to be done. I want to replace all the coolant hoses on my 01 Boxster S Tip. You would think it would be as simple as order the hoses.  When they arrive start the job. Not really.  I can not get a consistent PN reference from  any diagram showing the hoses. One source said just pull the hoses to get the number. Humm might be there might not. Besides I like to have everything I need before I start when at all possible. You all know its not like replacing the upper and lower on a chevy , right. But to pull all the hoses only find out, wrong part, back ordered, not available  is not how I would like to stat a job. Is there a source with up to date part numbers with a corresponding up to date diagram? Just being very hopeful. 

     

  7. Can you tell me what the program does that drains the converter? I did the service on both. last time removing the side cover for the differential.  Not sure what I could have gotten to go down to the bottom of the diff to suck the oil out?  I thought about drilling and tapping a drain plug. But since that part only comes with the trans i chickened out. Not sure what stresses it get and hoe even a small hole in the bottom might effect it. 

  8. On 1/7/2019 at 10:16 AM, Noel Santos said:

    HI everyone, new member from Canada here so I'll apologize in advance because I know there's several conversations about similar issues on this forum but my situation seems a bit different.

     

    I've just recently bought (Nov. 2018) a 2004 Boxster S Anniversary Edition with about 40,000 miles on it.  The previous owner had it for 2 years and put on about 8, 500 miles and near the end of  his ownership, he got a P0446  fault code and had a Porsche shop replace the purge valve and canister vent valve (I have his service records).  The owner before him had it stored for about 3 years just before he sold it.

     

    So, I've only driven the car for about 150 miles and decided to top off the tank before putting it away for the winter and that's when I found out that it had a problem refilling.  The car runs wells, no issues starting after I finally topped it up as some have indicated on other posts they've had issues with that.  When I spoke to the shop that did the work to check which vent valve was replaced (as I understand, there are two- one at the filler neck and one under the intake distributor) he confirmed it was the one at the filler neck (glad I asked, almost purchased one from Pelican) and said that it was the check valve.

     

    Can anyone help and shed some more light for me before I start taking the car apart?  

    On 1/12/2019 at 10:05 AM, Noel Santos said:

    Thanks for the advice Loren; I’ve decided to wait until Spring to go further with this little project so I can test each step by fueling up. She’s fast asleep now...will definitely update when the time comes. 

     

    Thank you!

    Well it was entirely by accident . I found that if you clock the fill handle to the 9 o'clock position it will fill so much easier. 

     

  9. 1 hour ago, Loren said:

    If someone put Litronics in the car without wiring up a control module for each then I think that is what you get.

    A "real" Litronics upgrade includes control modules and headlights.

    I am safe there. I have had this since new. ? Maybe the body shop may have messed with something.  Like i said the halogen come on when high beam activated just no raising of the reflector.  But yep that would do it right. 

  10. On 4/29/2013 at 11:20 AM, thom4782 said:

    I'll be clearer.

    The durametric will overide the inputs from the front and rear angle sensors and allow you to move the lights into the up, level, down positions even if one of the angle sensors is broken. So, if you actuate this test built into the durametric and the lights move, the problem is most likely one of the sensors is broken or installed backwards. Becuase you installed a new front sensor, the problem would likely be the back sensor.

    If the durametric cannot move the lights - one or both - then one of the other components might be bad. The codes JFP referred to will help point you in the direction of which component may be broken other than the angle sensors.

    BTW: my car had the 'backwards" problem when an independent re-installed the rear sensor. This caused my lights to be in the down position all the time. Once the rear sensor was installed properly, the Litronics moved as they should,

     

    On 5/10/2013 at 9:43 AM, JFP in PA said:

    On cars with factory installed Lits, the auto level check takes place at engine start in relation to the cars attitude or position, on aftermarket installed Lits, it takes place when the lights are turned on regardless of how the car is sitting.

    Kind of thought it might be a loose or corroded connector. Glad you got it fixed.

    Interesting. I guess I do not see how it could be installed backwards.  If it was backwards how would it even fit.

     

  11. On 4/27/2013 at 5:23 PM, tahiles said:

    Litronics aren't leveling, just pointing down. Found the front control arm linkage messed up so I got the parts from Sunset and fixed that.

    Didn't fix the problem so I was looking around more and found another problem.

    The headlight release hole, where the little tool goes is misaligned. If you look in there it looks like a little funnel to guide the tool onto the release arm. On the passenger headlight the release arm is centered in relation to the funnel opening. On the driver side the release arm is off to one side of the hole and the tool won't slip on the arm.

    Don't know how I'm going to fix this one. My understanding is the other three adjustment screws move parts around INSIDE the headlight and don't affect the housing position.

    Any help or advice appreciated.......

    Those are the adjustments for left and right, up and down. Depending on the alignment of the try holding the assembly there are 3 studs that can be adjusted for the headlamp assembly fit properly in the fender opening. Very fiddly. 

    I Too am having a problem with the reflector assemblies loose in the assembly. Light  bounces around and noticeable at night.  Mechanism does dip and cycle as it suppose to.  Can not tell if it is really leveling or not and can not find a how to check even in the manual.  Hope the info help a bit. Oh so the hole just lets you access the locking arm that is mounted to the picture inside the  fender.

     

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