johnp

use a small screw driver to open the pipe, then spray WD40 into the pipe. do the same when refitting the pipes and on the out side to make the clip slide over the pipe

Take a photo of the top of the engine after all the covers are off

remove the rear bumper, you can just get at the screws under the rear spoiler with out taking it of

remove exhaust, i had to drill out the top 4 bolts holding the rear box. The bolts to the manifold i cut of with a chisel and small grinder

Remove drive shaft bolts

The two water pipes over the gearbox need to be removed as they drop down lower than  the cross member,remove the front engine cover to stop all of the coolant coming out, i used two wine bottle corks

Remove gear link from ball, i was unable to remove the outer cable from the gearbox mounting, so i left it on and moved it side ways when i removed the box

Top of engine

Remove the pipes,throttle body, clips and electrical cable, remember take a photo, a lot of pipes, 

I removed the oil air separater to remove the bottom starter bolt, as i had a new one to fit onto the engine

battery EARTH lead of, remove starter cables then starter

MARK the converter to the ring gear, so it fits back in the same place

I used a mirror to see the 6 bolts holding the torque converter  to the ring gear, you can turn the engine over by using a screwdriver on the ring gear teeth

When you have the 6 bolts out, leave the bolt on a magnet, so they will stay on the allan key when you refit them , also use grease to lock them on the allan key

With the 6 bolts out use a screwdriver to push the torque converter into the box and when you start to remove the box check the converter is coming out with the box

You will need a engine cross brace to support the engine.  GET a hose clip remover,       the pipes under the rear engine cross bar are in the centre of it  and the top one on the gearbox 

Hi rochouse66,

thanks for the support,   yes your right, but it makes you think will the chains jump,will the timing be out, will it start up and you cant try to start it until all the parts are back on.

So i started it yesterday, it sounded OK, i have put the top and bottom parts back to day and go for a run in the french country side with the top down. 

Tips

 Putting the bolts back into the ring gear to torque converter, place them on a magnet when you remove them, so they stay on the allan key when you fit them, and do not drop down the back  of the ring gear

If you remove the oil air separator you can remove the bottom starter bolt

Make sure the LN cam locking tool fits into the flywheel side of the engine and use the tool to make one for the front cams, you will have to cut it and weld it at the top as the front cams do not line up, i did have the single cam tool to line up the front engine bottom cam but i did not trust the top cam not being locked 

You can use a screwdriver to turn the ring gear over to get at the torque converter bolts, after the starter is removed use a mirror and torch to see the bolts

Hi crwarren11, I just fitted a IMS bearing to my auto box  boxster

and just fitted the box today, if you still after info please let me know

Right, made the extra cam locking tool for bank 1, fitted the new locking tool to the other camshafts so all 4 cams locked in place

The LN pine for the front pulley was to long to clear the space from the engine to front panel, so i cut 20mm of the end 

Then locked the crankshaft

removed both rear chain tensioners and removed the IMS bearing cover

Used the LN puller to remove the bearing, it cam out with no problem, lots of old oil cam running out of the shaft

removed the new roller bearing from the fridge, it had been there for two days, fitted to the LN  tool and used a copper hammer to knocked it into

the shaft, it went in with no problem and bottomed out with a solid clunk, fitted the spring clip and cover, two chain tensioners

removed all the engine locking tools, turned it over two turns and refitted the the locking tools, both cam locking arms fitted into the 4 camshaft end ok

The rear crankshaft oil seal was leaking so changed it with a Porsche one

Fitted a new brake pipe over the gearbox as it was out

So all day to day fitting the auto box, starter , exhaust, engine oil and filter

Tomorrow is start up day

removed the starter and removed the torque converter bolts

rear bumper is off and the exhaust

The wine bottle corks do work to stop the all of the coolant running out 

engine is held up with a engine frame

So gearbox out tomorrow and time the engine to fit the LN Engineering timing tools

My £300 roller bearing is in the fridge

Ahsai, thanks for the info, I have read it

John

Mr Moderator, Thank you for you help and time

JP Motors, France 

What happened to you first email, you said no, i did not wont to to removing the air con unit, help

But thanks for the reply

At the moment im having a problem removing the water pips around the auto box ie where to start

Thanks for the reply, can you please explain your last email, my question at the start of the topic was, do i or do not remove the front engine chain presser bolt

HI I think you are talking about a different bearing, this is not a bearing, its a solid outer and inner shaft

it works like a crankshaft bearing

23 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

 

Welcome to RennTech 

 

No, as long as you follow the rest of LN Engineerings instructions to the letter.

Hi, thanks for the reply, i am going to fit the LN Engineering ultimate IMS retrofit kit.  I have the two sets of tools to do the work from them and i  intend to order the kit tomorrow

Hi everyone, thanks for letting me join you forum.

This is a old question, but Please help, on a 3 chain engine Do i need to remove the chain tensioner under the air con unit to change my IMS bearing

2.7, boxster, 2003