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Topless

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Posts posted by Topless

  1. With 175K it sounds like you definitely got your money's worth out of that car. I only hope to do as well. Choices:

    Put a used 3.2 back in

    Put a 3.6L in there and keep driving

    Sell it as a roller

    Part it out

    From what I can see it has been very well cared for and the fact that you know the entire history of the car has a lot of intangable value. Good luck with your car.

  2. Oversteer (rear end steps out) with a 225/285 stagger?? That sounds very unusual. To give you meaningful input we need to know more about your car. Any suspension mods and settings, 600hp Chevy LS1 motor transplant:) etc.

    On a stock car with this tire stagger the car would have significant understeer (push) unless something was disconnected or broken. Hot tire pressures taken immediately after a session are the only ones that matter.

  3. The cylinder head has a plug about that size but I think if it blew out you would have coolant/oil mix as it's under the valve cover area.

    That's what I was thinking; if any of the plugs in the engine came out, there should be "consequences", but you haven't mentioned any. I wonder if it was an "extra" left in there when the unit was assembled?

    +1

    It doesn't look like it was ever pressed in. Like a clamp that a medical doctor left in a patient during surgery... it happens. It just went along for an extended oil pan ride and luckily didn't trash the motor.

  4. Does anyone know the differences between these M030 Front Sway bar part numbers, in terms of diameter and thickness size, along with stiffness:

    996-343-701-21

    996-343-701-23

    http://www.cb-racing...oxster_030.html

    http://www.pelicanpa..._pg3.htm#item23

    I've used the above websites and could not find the part numbers with corresponding diameter, thickness and stiffness.

    Any help would be appreciated!

    Yes. Scroll down your CB Racing link. All the dimensions are there:)

    http://www.cb-racing.com/boxster_030.html

  5. Get new struts.

    After 80k miles my brother changed the struts on his 99 Box. We spent some time going over his old ones and they were in terrible shape. Very little consistent dampening in either compression or rebound. The car is transformed to a much more comfortable and predictable ride. I followed suit and changed my struts at 93K. Mine were in better shape but still a long way from ideal.

    My S only has 29K+ miles on it so changing struts won't make any difference, I would think.

    No probably not, unless the car lives in snow country and sees a lot of winter road salt. 8 years of road salt would take it's toll on the struts. All good info to include in your OP to get the most relevant responses: (yr, model, mileage, tire sizes & model, location, typical driving ) All of these may affect your ride comfort.

    FYI : I just pulled a set of base Boxster springs off last week. If you want em I'll pull em out of the recycle bin.

  6. Get new struts.

    After 80k miles my brother changed the struts on his 99 Box. We spent some time going over his old ones and they were in terrible shape. Very little consistent dampening in either compression or rebound. The car is transformed to a much more comfortable and predictable ride. I followed suit and changed my struts at 93K. Mine were in better shape but still a long way from ideal.

  7. Brake needs vary a lot depending on how you drive the car. I posted this recently over on 986forum:

    If you do a lot of track days you will surely run into brake issues at some point. Smoked pads, pad fade, boiled brake fluid, gummed rotors, warped rotors, bias issues, etc. Over the years I have gone through the trial and error process: run stock Porsche pads, Mintex, Pagid Orange, Pagid Black, Pagid Yellow RS19, Raybestos ST-43, Porsche rotors, Balo rotors, Zimmerman rotors, Porsche Fluid, ATE fluid, Motul fluid.

    My current favorite setup:

    Plain Jane Zimmerman rotors $80ea

    Raybestos ST-43 Pads $250/set

    Motul 600 brake fluid $16/pt

    Porsche 997GT3 brake ducts $20/set

    This is not a scientific study in any way, just the only setup that has never let me down. I change fluid twice a year and change pads when pad material approaches the metal backing thickness. I have explored different bias setups and just prefer using the same pad compound on all four corners. The ST-43 pads are a fully competition pad that last forever with no heat issues ever. They are a little intense for street use and will easily overpower a set of front 205 street tires, quickly invoking ABS. They also squeal a bit around town when cold. With a set of comp tires running deep into braking zones on a hot day (95F) they are flawless.

  8. First price out replacement 19" tires. The boxster will tear the rears up and you may only get 5-10,000mls out of a set.

    17"'s may not look as cool but they sure are cheaper.

    Agreed. They will also not fit under stock wheel wells. They are pretty heavy at 26lbs, so the car will feel/go much slower. It would be like losing 20 hp from your motor. Stock 17x8.5 wheels weigh 21.5 lbs.

    http://www.forgestar...STAR1911F14.pdf

  9. Another way to burn down a perfectly good Boxster is to bolt on a set of Chinese headers and forget that they get red hot under use. Failure to tie back power steering lines or other combustibles that might come in contact with aftermarket headers has killed half a dozen cars that I know of in the last 5 years.

  10. Hi

    Rolling the car in the paddock is good advice. Also GT3 ducts are very inexpensive thing to add.

    Very important is also to brake HARD when braking, and then release when done... (sorry if this is obvious, it just seems like a common place to make mistakes). Feathering the brake pedal and braking lightly but for long time really builds up a lot of heat.

    I have not researched but maybe it would be quite straight forward to upgrade to 986 S / 996 front brakes. That would also allow to use performance friction brake rotor (they only have it available in 996 carrera front fitment, which is the same as 986 S .. nothing for base boxster unfortunately) which is very good.

    Cheers, Sami

    Thanks for the input guys. New pads, rotors, and GT3 ducts are on, and all is well. Two track days and the brakes feel great. Changing Brake components is not an option in SPEC racing so I changed my methods. My new cooldown method is to really granny drive the final cool down lap and take a short drive down paddock road for extra cooling time. So far so good.

  11. The TSB doesn't list anything other than 205/55 225/50 for 16" wheels.

    A 245/45/16 would fit without rubbing unless you have extreme lowered suspension. You probably don't want to mount it on that 6" front rim though. A 225/245 stagger would work on stock rims. One of our local drivers was running 275/40/16s on16x9 rims all around to good effect. Fenders were definitely rolled though. This website is very useful for sizing and comparisons:

    http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Kumho&tireModel=Ecsta+V710

  12. 2002 c2 tip 87k miles new engine installed 6k miles back.

    This started happening after my first DE of last week. Ran the car pretty hard which I dont typically do...

    When I apply the gas from a full stop - the car just starts rolling and I get a one time clunk from the rear. Its more of a felling then a sound... and its REALLY felt. Only happens when I gas it a bit not when I just roll off like grandma...

    shop is closed and I wont be able to make it till next weekend - any ideas before I get it looked it (sort of anal about things being wrong with the car)

    Was planing on another DE in 3 weeks...

    thanks

    Sounds like a motor mount. Were the motor mounts replaced with the new motor?

  13. I have an intermix problem in my 02 Boxster. Car runs fine and no overheating or clear signs of something being wrong, I just happened to look in the coolant tank. Definitely some oil in the coolant and appears to be some condensation when oil cap is removed, but nothing on the dipstick. Anyone know of a good indicator to determine if this is a head gasket or head issue other than a compression test? Wondering if it may be the oil cooler...Thanks.

    Three likely possibilities:

    1. Failed oil cooler- test and replace

    2. Failed head/head gasket- symptom: intermix often accompanied by extreme cooling system pressure. If coolant is entering one or more combustion chambers a spark plug inspection should reveal it (fouled or discolored plug)

    3. Failed internal freeze plug- engine teardown may be required.

    The oil cooler is the simplest and least expensive to fix so I would probably start there unless there were other symptoms.

  14. I have a '99 Boxster Tiptronic that I AX and one of the issues I have with the trans is it will not downshift under most hard braking and turning maneuvers leaving me coming out of the hole in second gear, which is where I generally end up running most AX's in. By the time I've built up enough speed to reach the RPM required for maximum torque and HP it's time to brake and turn again. The power band in second gear, where I am usually, seems a long stretch even on strait-aways. My question is is there a way to bring the maximum torque and HP on at a lower RPM than 6K, say 4500 RPM? I'm not looking to increase HP just have what is there available sooner.

    Suggestion: Just keep the rpm between 4k-6k when AXing and drive the car. There are a lot of drivers in SoCal who AX very well with Box Tips. Most just leave it in 2nd and focus on the line and getting their corner entry speeds right. I think max torque is 4800 in our cars so you can use all of it.

  15. Any one know where a reasonably priced 60K mile service can be done in So. Cal? Dealers want $1600! Please advise as a friend is looking.

    Callas Rennsport- Torrance

    Red Line- Long Beach

    I know both owners and both are very capable shops. You can come by PCA-GPX for breakfast this Saturday at Frisco's Carhop in LB and chat with the shop owners in a casual setting.

  16. OK, so the mechanic did not scratch his head for very long over this....the results ? I need a new transmission, **** it...

    Or I rebuild this one. ..

    I'll tell more once the repair is done.

    between 2500$ and 3500 $ with labor..

    OUCH...

    Before you spent all that money, you may want to do what I did.

    I took out my right rear wheel and saw a cable kind of coursing through along with a rear suspension component- I'm not sure if it's the control arm or trailing arm, or what you might call it.

    At any rate, the cable (I believe is the parking brake cable) has some give to it. And when I do flop it around it does seem to make contact with the metal arm and make noise. I remember reading some treads about the cable might cause noise problem, so I put a plastic cable tie and tied it to the metal arm next to it.

    I didn't really have high hope but voila, since I did that there was no noise!

    --Ken

    I agree it sounds like extraneous noise and not a failed tranny. If the car still shifts ok with no synchro issues look elsewhere. You can drain the trans fluid through a screen to check for shiny bits. A bunch of broken gear teeth would make a lot more racket.

  17. Just a quick thought, do you roll the car a bit in the paddock while the brakes cool down? I've heard that the pads sitting in one spot, even after a cool-down lap, can cause warping.

    Interesting. I have never done this and I don't know anyone who does but it is possible that certain pads retain enough heat to cause damage even while the brakes are disengaged.

  18. Thanks - I looked at the Kumho because the R888's are out of stock. The only thing I could get were Hankook R-S2's which I've used before, as the V70's were out too. Then they ring me back and say I can have 3 tyres :)

    So now I'm stuck with a decent road tyre rather than a track-oriented option.

    An instructor said he'd heard good things about Vredestein Sessantas - in the option 2 sizing, they work out at £250 as opposed to £850 for the R888's (remember we also pay $8 a gallon :) ) so I'll give them a go

    Have a great time! I have never run or even seen the Vredesteins so no opinion on them. R888s don't work very well for us out west though. Most drivers here prefer RA-1s, Nitto NT-01s, BFG R1s or the Kumho V710s in our sizes.

  19. Ok veteran Boxster track guys we need your input. This weekend my brother and I completed a two day time trial at Buttonwillow in unusually cool conditions and both our front rotors are really warped when hot. My car has Balo rotors and his are OEM but they are equally thrashed. I doubt they could be turned out because the serious judder only happens after lap 2 (hot). It gets so bad that in heavy braking zones I can barely hang on to the car. Any good solutions for better rotors/better heat management for the fronts? GT3 ducts? Dryer ducting? Evaporative mist system? We are running BSX cars that are just class legal weight (2950) with pagid yellow pads and SRF fluid. No noticable fade issues but really rough rotor judder under heavy braking as the session progresses. We do basic brake cool down lap and no E-brakes on track days. Ideas?

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