aehsani

My understanding is that factory placed the RMS backward by design in order to create more negative pressure (vaccum) for the purpose of attaing a few extra ponies. The downside is the possibility of oil leak if the car is not driven frequently. I suspect that with placement of turbo seal in the conventional ("normal") way, you are likely to lose a few HP (which may not be noticeable). If I rercall correctly, this info was provided by Bruce Anderson in Excellence a few years ago.

Jermmy

Thanks for the elaborate description and the tidbits to restore the battery function. It was most hepful. I installed an Optima battery in my 05 GT3 last year. My only concern is whether the lithium battery will still have enough rerserve in 25-35 F degree-temperatures.

Thanks again.

ali

Jermmy"

Thanks for the very info. It certainly was very usesful. A couple of furhter questions:

When you say cold what temperature are you referring to?

You mention turning the "light on" would facilitate to start the car. I presume the headlights; correct?

Thanks again for the helpful info

Ali

Carmon:

It is almost 12 months since you installed the lithium battery in your GT3. Any update on the status of the battery?

You may consider to contact Suncoast Porsche parts in Sarasota, Florida, or Wheel Enhancement. They might be able to help you. Do you have a specific designated option code for black-painted wheel? If so, it should be included on your option list

Thanks for the info.

al

"Don't forget these guys. I have heard great things about them from Audi guys and 911 Turbo guys. I guess they will also customize a tune if your close by with your vehicle on a Dyno, that would be optimum. Eurocharged also sells the MyGenuius loading tool so you can do it yourself."

I just reviewed their website. Very impressive with good reviewes. Can they actually dyno 4-wheel drive cayenne? Anyway, prices are reasonable, if gains are not exaggerated, or drivability is not adversely affected. I am even tempted to try it on my C55 AMG in addition to the CT. I presume you do not have it on your cayenne turbo s. I wonder if any one here has used their sofware on their cayenne

Interesting. I presume that you do not have dynamic drivetrain mount.

The new mounts have less elasticity - firmer means the engine will sit higher. The old mounts were obviously softer, hence the lower position of the engine and exhaust tips.

You may be able to pull down the mufflers a little on their brackets - but there may not be all that much tolerance stack up to get you to the tip position with the original mounts. You'll have to look at every place along the exhaust route to see if some additional give is possible - without impacting the integrity of the tube joints.

I not sure that the issue is alterations in complinace/stiffness characteristics. I had 993 RS motor mounts professionally installed on my car, and now the OEM exhaust tips are lower. Unless I am mistaken, RS motor mounts are not supposed to be more compliant (less stiff) than the OEM ones. I have no experience with Wevo mounts, but there must be some other underlying variables.

Porsche now approves of 0W-40 or 5W-40 synthetic oils - so either is fine.

Loren:

The viscosity issue is clear. But what is the GL desigation? Is this a new (revised) API SERVICE classification? (I know G signifies gas engines). I can not find this (GL) in the retail stores here. The widely available Mobil 1 is API SM,SL/CF. This is the one I have used and the service adviser at my dealer did not raise any concern. I would apperiate your response. :renntech:

Porsche dropped that requirement in the April 2007 list - so I have edited the list.

THANKS. :renntech:

Porsche now approves of 0W-40 or 5W-40 synthetic oils - so either is fine.

Loren:

The viscosity issue is clear. But what is the GL desigation? Is this a new (revised) API SERVICE classification? (I know G signifies gas engines). I can not find this (GL) in the retail stores here. The widely available Mobil 1 is API SM,SL/CF. This is the one I have used and the service adviser at my dealer did not raise any concern. I would apperiate your response. :renntech:

I have a cousin with a new Mustang GT, to which he just added a cold-air intake kit and a chip tuner. The air intake kit included a different MAF and housing as well. The chip tuner is a revised ECU chip, and a handheld device that plugs into the OBD-II plug. You modify the chip's programs via the handheld. The handheld device has a USB port that connects to a laptop and can provide all kinds of engine data.

He did this whole thing for under $500, and a dyno test showed he has an extra 30 at the rear wheels, with at least 10-15 throughout the entire range, not just at 6 grand. Chip raises the rev limiter from 6200 to 6750, so that's where some of that power lies. It has a more aggressive sound, and a slight seat-of-the-pants power bump.

A Porsche is similar to a Mustang in that it too uses a gasoline-powered combustion engine with largely the same fundamental design of fuel, spark, sensors, and controls. So why wouldn't an intake kit and a tuned chip give you the same results?

It probably will, and maybe that slight bump is worth $500-700. But if you want more than 20-30 hp, you'll have to go further. And if you appreciate the Porsche design philosophy, then you'll also want the rest of the car designed for it - from stronger major engine and transmission components, to bigger brakes, to stronger bushings and bearings all around, all the way up to heavier-duty bolts for your flux capacitor. All of that adds up to a balanced car with higher total performance and the same durability. It's so extensive and in done in so many areas of the car that you'll be better off upgrading to a different model if you want a serious HP boost. Plus, turbo engines are much cheaper to get an extra 50 hp out of! :)

I certainly agree with your conclusion. As others have indicated, the most viable alternative is to sell the car and acquire a 996 turbo (which its prices are attracive these days). It has a true dry-sump lubrication system and, like GT 2 and 3, is based on the evolution of 964-993 engine.

However, I find it difficult to accept the premise that Ford and Porsche engines are similar. In my view (even though I am not an expert), they are not comparable. Yes, both are internal-combustion engines and both are, in essence, air-pumps. But that's where the similarity ends. The following should elucidate my point:

The Ford modular engine in Mustang is 4.6 liter (3 valve configuration, if I remember correctly) with a CR of 9.8 producing 300 HP which gives a specific output of only 65 HP/L. In contrast, the 996 engine is 3.6 L in capacity (4-valve /cylinder). With a CR of 11.3, it yields a greater power, i.e., 320 HP with a specific output of 89 HP/L even though it is smaller by 22%. Now you may argue that Ford engine's torque is higher; that's really immaterial because 996's acceleration times, based on published data, are quicker. The implication is that Porsche engine is a high-tech powerplant, and as a consequence, it would be difficult to obtain a substastial additional HP from this engine because the factory has already extracted, within certain parametres, the near maximal power. Can we get more HP from this engine ? Of couse we can. The prime example is the expensive factory Power Kit raising the peak HP to 345. But I don't believe that you could get an extra USABLE 50 HP without an extensive internal modification. This constraint is not applicable to the Ford engine which is relatively low-tech.

Any screen over the air intakes will restrict air flow somewhat, but, I don't believe that either the Cup car screens nor the Cargraphic will restrict the flow enough to make any difference to a moving car. They both will stop flying junk larger than about 1/4 of an inch. In my opinion, the removal of the black plastic frame/ducting behind the holes in the bumper may actually have a larger effect on the air flow....but, that is only my own speculation from standing there looking at it on the garage floor and trying to deduce what it does. Certainly, even the factory feels it's ok to remove the frame on the racing Cup Car....but, they expect that the Cup Car will be moving fairly briskly through the air!....not idling through summer traffic. As far as the aesthetics of the screen install.....yeh, that bothered me too. When you remove the black frame you expose some locating slots/holes on the inside edge of the intake holes. Most folks use tie wraps/zip ties through those holes to help locate the screens as well as a big "rope" of urethane glue all around the periphery of each hole. I wouldn't think twice about doing that on a track-only car....but..........

Thanks, Craig for clarification. I was little concerned about these. That's why I have been hesitant to install them.

Izard.... i've experimented with inlet protective screens on my '04 996 GT3. I tried both the factory cup car screens that Carnewal and TRG sells...and with the German screens from Cargraphic. In the end, I've decided not to put them on. Both sets require me to remove and not use the black plastic frame that mounts inside the bumper and stiffens the three inlet holes. It also guides airflow, somewhat, to the radiators. The screens from both sources replace that frame and require you to glue and/or tie wrap the screens to the inside of each inlet. To me, it just isn't a clean installation.

By the way, although I sold the Cup screens, but, I still have the Cargraphic screens and would be willing to sell. I really have no idea, though, if they will even fit on a 997 G3.

Interesting. Thanks for the input. Are these somewhat undesirable from esthetic perspective or do they actaully restrict air flow to the radiators? Please advise.

Well, just got back from a nice three week Europe and Middle East trip. Hadn't drove my Porsche for a while and seeing how it was a nice day, I thought I'd take it out for a spin. After getting my coffee and donut, I was driving along one of the major streets just entering an intersection when an 85 yr. old fellow, that should have quite driving years ago, pulled out in front of me at an intersection (my green, his red) and this was the result.

He told the cops he didn't even know there was a light there. I'm soooo glad I just spent $12,000 on a new motor, $1,500 on a new clutch and $1,200 on new tires. And oh yeah, I'd just washed it too. I guess I could have been on my Harley.......

Obviously, I'm really bummed, but no one was hurt. It's only stuff, right? Towed it to the shop where they said there is so much frame/unitbody damage that it will be a total.

Now comes the fun part. The car, a '99 Carrerra with around 68,000 miles was near perfect. And a brand new engine with warranty to boot. Knowing that the other driver's insurance company has to put me in an "equal" car, I need to get more than just Blue Book, in consideration for the new motor and warranty

Does anybody have any ideas how to maximize my position in this?

Sorry about the accident. I do hope that you would get a satisfactory compensation.

I really think that there should be a yearly mandatory DRIVING test for the elderly (people older than 75 yrs old) to identify the incompetent drivers. I do realize that age limit is debatale. However, it is a fact that there is a progressive age-related decline in visual-motor coordination which can adversely affect driving ability. So, frequent assessment, IMO, is not without merit. This should not be construed as an insult to or discrimination against the elderly. After all, driving is NOT a right but a privilege.

Of course, I also realize that there are other conditions that are equally or more hazardous and impair driving profoundly that we are all too familiar with: ethanol, drugs, extended phone conversation and eating; once I saw a woman holding a bowl of cereal? (it was in the morning) with one hand and a spoon in the other hand putting that stuff in her oral cavity while driving (true story)!

I saw a GT-3 with protective screens installed to provide some defense against rocks, stones, bolts, etc. that are thrown up at the front of the car. Having already replaced the A/C condenser after collecting a bolt (!) thrown up by a truck, I am looking for some additional protection for all the exposed parts (oil cooler/A/C, etc.). These were a simple black coarse screen that looked like a professionally made aftermarket part. Does anyone know where these are available?

You can also check with Austin at TRG. I know they have the protective screens for 996 GT3 (factory cup cars, LT grill #996.505.323.91, RT grill #996.505.324.91, center grill # 996.505.321.92 ). Total cost: ~ $392

I have a 99 C2 that had an AASCO 80% grand am spec single mass flywheel with a stock sprung sachs clutch. After less than 5,000 miles including some autocross and track days it is gone. We have not done any big clutch drops, so the local shop thinks having a sprung flywheel and clutch is just not getting enough pressure so it is slipping too much.

The question is what to do next, we have the whole car apart to put in a new motor 997 x51 motor and are going to replace the flywheel and clutch. The car needs to still be drivable on the street, ie. we can't create an on off switch type situation for the clutch engagement, yet we need a better solution than the above.

Any one out there with experience with the Rs spec flywheels and organic linec sachs sport unsprung clutches? How about about using Sach motorsports clutches with metaillic pucks..has any one found any of those streetable?

Thanks,

VM

Check with Austin from TRG. He may be able to help you. He is very knowledgable and supportive.

As for "livability", I have 31K miles on my '04 GT3, most of them commute and vacation travel miles. The car is definitely a pleasure to drive every day; the only thing you always have to remember is the low ground clearance, the front splitter, driveways and such.

Do you happen to know the highest milage 996 GT3 in the States (or North America)?

Anyone else? Loren?

There's a thread on this over at Rennlist. I haven't followed it closely, but seem to recall that 41K is the high mark.

THANKS.

As for "livability", I have 31K miles on my '04 GT3, most of them commute and vacation travel miles. The car is definitely a pleasure to drive every day; the only thing you always have to remember is the low ground clearance, the front splitter, driveways and such.

Do you happen to know the highest milage 996 GT3 in the States (or North America)?

Anyone else? Loren?

How can I tell a Mk1 from a Mk2. is this based on the year or not. How much better is the 997 vs the 996? Is the 2004 or the 2005 preferred, or pretty much the same? I haved read that this GT3 engine is the best Porsche engine available to the consumer. Is this consistent with your view?

Could you really drive this car every day or would it annoy your neighbors and scrape on the parking lot entrance? Is it quiet enough inside to carry on a conversation on the highway or do you have to raise your voice?

Thanks. Just trying to learn.

skip

As others indicated, 996 (MK2) GT3 is, without a doubt, a wonderful car and an absolute joy to drive.

Whether you can use it as a daily driver, the answer is yes. However, it depends on your level of tolerance and threshold for discomfort, the road conditions (smooth vs. potholes) and possible orthopedic problems . It is certainly not prohibitively uncomfortable, but I must admit that I don't use it as a means of daily transportation. Of course, you can not drive this car in the snow with the conventional tires.

As for noise level, it is a little loud but I don't think too loud; you can carry on a conversation conveniently without the need to raise a decible . Having said that, I know that a few of my neighbours told my wife at the a neighbourhood party (which I did not attend) that they know when I am driving the car on Saturday and Sunday AM's. Like others, I do not use the radio. If you are a classical music fan, forget about it, because the musical dynamic range is destroyed (although I have not bothered to try it).

May I suggest that you test drive the car for youself because these issues are subjective and you are the only one to be able to determine the positive attributes (which are numerous) and the deficiencies.

Is the 997GT3 a better car? I think the answer is yes. It is more refined and comfortable, and also faster.

I'm trying to get some input from anyone who has installed Race Headers on their 996. I have an 01', and I've been considering installing a set of Gemballa Race Headers. Some claim up to 30hp gains. Others claim around 5hp to the rear wheels. I already have high performance muffler system & Fabspeed intake, and chip. Just thinking headrs would complete the pieces. Any input would be welcomed.

Thx

Loren has addressed this issue very eloquently in his blog. You may wish to review this.

BTW, the claim "up to 30 hp" is really meaningless, as the purpoted gain encompasses the range from 0 to 30 hp. Having said that, I am aware that there are reputable tuners (RUF, Manthy and others) whose products can give a decent but modest gain in peak hp, i.e., 20-25 (perhaps even more) for the NA engines. In fact, the factory Porsche power kits for 996 increase the maximal hp by 20 and 25 for the 3.4 liter (which was not available in the US) and 3.6 liter engines (which was available in the US), respectively.

Please consider that: 1) these kits include multiple components that should work in harmony to acheive the targeted gain, and 2) they are expensive. It is unlikely that a single product can produce a consistent 20-25 hp gain in peak power, particularly WITHOUT a decrease in power in the low-mid RPM

Great forum...

I just purchased my first Porsche, a 2002 996 Coupe. So far I love it and look forward to a time when I am as familiar with it as I have been with other cars. In the meantime, I have a bunch of questions that I have not been able to find on the forums... Thanks in advance.

1. Where is the AM/FM antenna? In the windshield?

2. Is the stalk that controls the "trip computer" supposed to be kind of loose and floppy? Is there a way to tighten it?

3. The car did not come with any manuals...:-( Can someone list what I should have so I can obtain a complete set from Porsche?

4. Is the cigar lighter supposed to stay "live" when the car is off and the key is out?

5. How do I know if the car has the "Motor Sound Package"? I was told it does and it seems to have a nice loud sound, but do not see an option code for it. There is no PSE switch either. Not sure if those two always go together.

6. The fuel filler lid seems to be spring loaded and want to close itself while I am trying to fuel the car. Makes it hard to keep the fuel cap off the fender. Is this normal?

Thanks again for any info you can provide.

Mike

Congratulations on your new aquisition. Enjoy it. It is wonderful car. I don't believe that there is a "motorsound" option for the 996 Porsche. That option was available for the 993 series. But I may be wrong. Perhaps you mean PSE (Porsche Sport Exhaust). One of the places you can look for the factory installed options is your warranty booklet.

I also remove the dipstick to add oil. Otherwise it's a pain. BTW, the first time I tried to check the oil level using the dipstick, I panicked, as there was no visible oil on the stick (I followed all the instructions and procedures in the manual), and yet the electronic gauge on the onboard computer displayed half full. I had just changed the oil and filter at my dealer. So I called my service adviser, and also the adviser at the Brumo in Florida. They both told me that I did not need to bother with the dipstick because the e-gauge on the OBC is highly accurate. Nevertheless I added 250 ml of 0W40 oil (one measuring cup) which raised the level by one segment (1 segment= 0.25 liter per manual).

The oil quanity with filter is 9 liter (9.6 Quarts) for GT 3, according to the owner's manual. Does this number represent the total amount (capacity) so that the quantity to be repalced is less than that?

Thanks for the info and advice

Regards,

Ali

What does RoW stand for?

Rest of the World