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dammad
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Everything posted by dammad
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It depends how much. Top bar of the readout flashing? Or worse? Removing the oil filter and replacing will take out an amount to fix a small overfill. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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1700 of the 2000 odd operating hours are reported at 'overspeed range 1'. Highly suspicious.
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You may be able to trigger it by using a reverse wire sourced from somewhere in the car. But as Richard mentions, you'll probably need the RGB input enabled with a PIWIS
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I've an occasional problem on my 2009 C4S. I've got Textar pads on (a year or two old), but I've noticed recently that when I start out a trip (usually after being left for a while) that there's very little brake bite initially. The type of situation is: I'm leaving the parking lot after work and go to press the brakes to stop for a car ahead and very little happens. Instead, I really have to stand on them to make it stop. This, however, only happens occasionally, say once a week. Other than this, the brakes work well and pads/discs are good. Brake fluid also looks good (level/color). Pedal feel is good with no spongy-ness. I'm wondering if this is glazing on the discs. It's a daily driver so no track work to give those brakes more of a work out. Any other suggestions on potential problems?
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Quick follow up in case others need this. It was the AOS. All fixed and back on the road.
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Okay.. Have some of the UV stuff coming today, but using my old endoscope to have a look around. Oil seems to be pooling to the rear and left (drivers side) of a grey circular thing behind the oil filler pipe in the center of the engine. See top left of the first picture. The second picture is a view below and to the left (drivers) of that grey thing. Other areas look clean dry but can't get to see behind the grey circular thing. I assume this is the AOS based on looking over parts diagrams. The oil filler pipe looks dry and clean where it connects so assume is fine until I get the UV stuff in.
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Thanks guys. Alas, I'm out on kid's spring break now, will get on it when I'm back.
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I noticed the last three days that my 997.2 C4S drips a good amount of oil on the drive overnight. I had a look at it today (and parked it in a different spot to gauge the amount of oil). I thought it might be a slightly loose drain plug or something, but appears to be coming from the rear of the engine somewhere. ?Does anyone have any ideas? I can't see where it's coming from. the major drips seem to come from the bolt at the center of the picture. Expensive or really really expensive to fix?
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I took it to the shop and they fixed it fairly quickly. The problem was the lights and their alignment. Once they did that it was back to looking right. In case anybody needs in the future.
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Thanks for the feedback. I have a look at it tomorrow to see if it easily adjusts a 'smidgeon'.
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The engine cover of my '09 997.2 4S Cab doesn't seem to align like I remember it did. I had a rear-end accident a month or so ago and had it repaired, but didn't notice it at the time. Essentially the engine lid closes fine, but it doesn't line up when closed. It protrudes a few millimeters from the line of the lights (IMG_2617). The line of the engine cover seems to line up with the rest of the bodywork (IMG_2618), so I can't work out what isn't installed right. I'll take it back to the shop, but would love any pointers on the problem to get them past 'it's supposed to be like it'. Any help or pointers appreciated.
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Thanks. I was aiming to get the bottom on first also, but there’s not much room on the 997.2 to pull it back far enough and down to get it on. At least for my fingers. For others losing knuckle skin on this: I solved this by moving the adjustable clamp completely back. Then I used my fingers from the top to poke inside the rubber tube bending the top rubber down so I could push the lower rubber lip down from inside under the intake. Once that’s on, the rest falls in place. Of course this bending puts strain on the rubber but replacing that (if ever) is much cheaper than my time and skin. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I took off my air box (attaches the air intake with the air filters inside) to check belts. Now I need to get it back in. However, try as I might, I can’t get the rubber neck to completely go on the bottom of the air intake on the engine. I’ve done this before on a 996 without issues but on my 997.2 4S there seems to be very little space to be able to negotiate the bottom of the rubber hose over the bottom lip of the air intake. (See attachment). Either I’ve got fat fingers or there’s a method to it that I’m missing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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After leaving it for a while the hub moves more freely, so assume it was residue pressure in the lines. Still, doesn't explain why I get grinding feeling/noise when I brake at low speed. Any ideas on that?
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My 2009 4S has been running well, but recently I noticed that when I brake I can feel some mild grinding when I brake at low speeds. No brake wears lights are on, so I checked the front and rear brake pads manually and they both have lots of pad left. I removed a front wheel and found that if I turn the hub by hand: - it moves very stiffly. Even after I've put the PDK in N. and handbrake is off - there is some rotational play in the front axle shaft to the 4WD system. You can feel it touching on the gears to the left/rightNot sure if this is normal, but thought I'd mention it. Now I'm wondering if the brake system at the front is doing something strange (why can't I turn it easily) or there's an axis/4WD problem? Discs look very good and I get no vibration under braking. Any ideas? Is the axle and turning stiffness just a feature of the 4WD?
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Search for 'Emergency release cable' or look at this sample link: Getting power to it and/or using the emergency release cable should do it.
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Loren: Interesting. Didn't realize there wasn't a separate cab drain diagram. Based on my memory and pictures, this is how the drains are on my 997.2. - Picture #1 shows where the drains appear to go. Drain 2 has a capture tank that often seems to cause the overflows into the rear carpets - Picture #2 shows them imposed on my car. - Picture #3 shows the drain that goes to Drain #1 - Picture #4 shows the drain area that goes to Drain #2. Clean both areas (Drain #1 and #2) as well as both outlets in the wheel well. Of course, it is the same on both sides. Hope this helps prevent a few floods for fellow cab owners. Dammad.
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Alan111, Let me take a picture of my car and illustrate the drains this morning. Essentially there are 4 'outlets' from the top area each with a different drain. To clean out, remove any reachable debris from the area the top folds into, then flush with water and then work the outlets in the wheel well to remove 'crud' as well as work the rubber. Loren: Do you have a diagram on the cabriolet drains on the 997.2, that pic is for the sunroof version. Dammad.
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I wasn't getting a reading on the dash oil test when I brought the car used.
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Hi, I replaced the oil level sender on my '09 and it was very straightforward. No need to calibrate it at all. Works well now.
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A quick addition to this thread. I noticed today that the 997.2 has two drains (per side) for the cabriolet roof. One dumps out at the front of the rear wheel, but the 2nd dumps out at the rear of the rear wheel. It exits at the point where the rear part of the rear wheel well cover finishes at the top. Make sure you give that one a clear too. I found I could reach it in the gap at the end of the wheel well cover. Pouring in some water around the top and then squeezing the outlet cleaned it out nicely.
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Quick update. There's no problem in removing or opening the 997.2 immobilizer. I unplugged black then brown and all worked fine. The immo is about a centimeter above the floor under the seat so there's some buffer in case of water incursions.
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I had some water intrusion from clogged cab drains during the crazy heavy CA rains. So I thought I'd take the seat out and examine the under seat modules (park assist and immo) while it is dry here. I haven't seen any instructions on removal but it comes apart pretty much as a 997.1 or 996. The immobilizer module is, of course, different, so I'm wondering for any input on: - is there an order to removing the connectors to the immobilizer? On the 996 is was black 1st then Blue, but this has 2 black plugs and 1 brown. - is it 'safe' to open the immobilizer box (battery is disconnected already etc.)? I don't want it to think I'm tampering with it or something. Dammad
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I doubt it would do any harm to click cancel or reset the durametric software. Clearing codes is an atomic operation so will either have cleared or not. I'd suggest rebooting the PC to make sure everything is good for when you retry.
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I checked my '09 Cabs's drains at the end of summer and they appeared to drain fine down behind the wheels with good flow. However, now the rain is here, I'm getting water in the driver's side rear footwell (below the carpet) causing the alarm/electrics to go off. I've moped up the water and I checked the drains again between the rains but they still seem to drain well. I've checked the slot style drains from around the end of the top as well as the main drain towards the center of the car in a drainage dip. Does anyone have any idea on where the water may be coming in from or perhaps other drains I've missed?
