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dpolson

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Posts posted by dpolson

  1. Ok so when I first replaced it and connected the battery it gave yellow workshop while the compressor ran normally. Then it timed out and gave red workshop. So I disconnected battery and reconnected it again and no light came on. So I drove around the block and it didn't give any workshop lights after short drive. Then when I parked It and tried to raise it nothing happened. No light and the car wouldn't move.... Thanks for yalls input!!!!

    You probably know this already, but it won't go up or down with any of the car doors open  (safety feature).. 

  2. Hahnmgh63 had the same problem I've had: air compressor would run-on and I would have to stop and re-start the car several times to get it to shut off. I did the widely-recommended compressor piston ring replacement (which I've also had to do on a Touareg) but that did not solve the problem this time. The compressor continued to run-on and got the the point where it would not shut off at all, no matter how many times I re-started and stopped the engine. I finally had to park it in my shop and pull the 40-amp fuse under the driver's seat to avoid killing the battery. Now what? Replace the pressure sensor? (2006 Cayenne Turbo S)

  3. After a recent oil change (which I did, as a matter of routine, including draining the turbo reservoirs), I have suddenly developed a major oil leak coming out of left side intercooler pipes area. Have not yet investigated in detail. Shop where I just had an alignment done thinks it's a blown left turbo oil seal. Says turbo will likely have to be replaced. When I did a brisk left-accelerating-turn on the way back to my office, I generated a huge cloud of oil smoke. Otherwise, it is not visibly smoking, but it did leave a 12" diameter puddle of oil on the parking spot. Car has 80K miles. I have a lift and do all my own work (except alignment).

     

    1) Is this indeed the likely a blown turbo oil seal? This seems uncommon, but perhaps not unheard-of, from scanning the forum.

    1a) Is there anything I could have done during the oil change to cause this? I followed the same procedure I always do.

    2) Is turbo replacement the only wise option?($3000 from Sunsset) What about a rebuilt "genuine OEM" unit from BuyAutoParts on eBay? ($679)

    3) If I am going to the trouble to disassemble the turbo/exhaust system, would it be advisable to perform turbo and exhaust upgrades? We are satisfied with the stock power and sound, but mods are always fun and this might represent a good excuse to do some...as long as the cost isn't exorbitantly more than just repairing what I've got.

     

     

  4. I realize there are quite a few different combinations to consider, here, but I'd like to ask anyway, since the nav system is pretty useless as-is. (I don;t know why I'm bothering since I have a Garmin or two anyway and data entry in the PCM system is a ridiculous pain, but it's there and if it can be made more useful I'd like to at least consider the updates.)

    My situation is a 2006 Cayenne with Nav, SW 3.3, PCM level B (5024), amp level 16457.

    My questions, to which I have not found definitive answers on any sites, are: 1) Can I safely use the C update disc which goes in the Nav DVD drive without frying my amp? 2) what benefits would I see going from B to C? 3) Since my nav DVD is the original 2005 version, would this be a good time to update to the "2013" disc or when might we expect to see the next update (if ever)? and 4) I think I understand that I can update the maps to 2013 without updating from B to C software, should it prove to be dangerous for my amp to go from B to C, correct?

    Many many thanks to the contributors!

  5. Anyone have a slow leak develop in one corner on air suspension?

    Does this foretell an impending blowout?

    Does an air spring blowout render the car undriveable?

    Do these systems typically leak anywhere but at the air spring itself?

    Shop manual says to replace both left and right air struts if one goes bad and the car has over 120,000 miles, implying that this is the useful life of the air struts. Does anyone have any real-world data as to how long the air struts last?

    Do fronts go bad before rears typically?

    The "pressure sensor lead" error code repair sequence starts off with looking for leaks in the system, so I presume that leaks are therefore the most common cause of this error code. Any agreement on this?

    Thanks all.

  6. I need some programming help. I have the following:

    1) Original second key for my Cayenne with a destroyed fob.

    2) A good used fob from another Cayenne, to whcih I have transferred the original cut key.

    3) A PST2 computer tool.

    4) My car's code # from the dealer

    5) One good orginal first key + fob.

    Still, I seem unable to program the second fob to this car. I've tried "teaching" just the new key/fob, and I've tried "teaching" both the original first key/fob along with the second key/fob, and whatever I do, the second key/fob still trigggers the immobilizer. The PST2 says "programming key failed" or something to that effect. What am I doing wrong?

  7. Many thanks, Don. Here's another issue you might be able to advise me on. The transfer case will shift into low range and lock and unlock the center diff, but will not then shift back to high range. THe stepper motor is fine (I swapped with my Touareg to make sure). Is this a control module issue? Transmission control module? Or is there a transfer case control module (the other box under the driver seat witht he tranny module??) Or something else? PST2 is not helping me with this one.

  8. Problem solved. It looked like the rear of the car was quite a bit higher than the front, so I thought maybe the front height value (whcih you input first in the calibration process) was implausibly low. So I added 10mm to the value I was trying to input, and it took it! I did the smae with the right front (added 10mm). For the rears I put in the actual values, and it swallowed it and readjusted the car to look much more level. Now I will try calibrating again using gthe actual measurements.

  9. OK, folks, I have begun to solve question #1 above reagarding the stuck transfer case (since I could find nothing relevant in this or the Touareg forums) by monkeying around under the car. Here is what I have learned:

    Yes, the stepper motor on the transfer case controls BOTH the going in and out of low range AND locking the center differential.

    I figured this out by attemepting to swap the known good motor from my V10 Touareg (which is shaping up to be the far better vehicle between the two) to the Cayenne Turbo. I took it off the Touareg when it was in high range. When I went to put it on the Cayenne, I could see that the shaft keyway was not going to align with the motor's keyway (sicne the Cayenne was stuck in low range), so this is how I knew that this stepper motor controlled hgih and low range. I had to grab the shaft coming out of the transfer case with some channel lock pliers and rotate it counterclockwise (looking toward the shaft) about 90 degrees and lo and behold it clunked into position to line up with the stepper motor. So, figuring the good motor from the Touareg would operate everything just fine, I lowered the car, fired it up, (no more fault light and hgih range working now) and operated the switch to put it in low range, lock the diff, unlock the diff (so far so good--no warning lights), and.... it would not go back into high range. Warning light back on. Stuck again, even with the good stepper motor. So.... back up on the lift, remove the stepper motor again, rotate the shaft manually with the pliers counterclockwise into high range again, rotate the motor shaft to align, and bolt it all back up. I'm afraid to try it again. One thoguht I had is that it is just stiff from lack of use (prior owner didn't use low range, it seems) and that after these couple of manaul movements it might work eventually. But I'm too tired to try it again and go through the above process again right noiw. I think I'll look under the passenger seat instead and see if there are any wires amiss.

    So... I still don't know why the Cayenne won't operate the stepper motor from low to high range, but it operates it fine in every other operation. Next stop: the control module under the passenger seat and its attendant wiring!

    Useful lesson: stuck transfer case can be unstuck manually. Taking the stepper motor off is really easy. Three 10mm-head bolts and two 8mm-head bolts. Two wire connectors. One pair of big channel locks or vice grips with good teeth to engage the splines on the shaft without damaging them.

  10. Suspension height will not affect the 4WD system. Heights of each of the four corners are compensated for in the computer system, and you'll need a PST2 or PIWIS to re-callibrate the ride height of each of the four corners of the suspension if the car sits uneven. Measure height from flat floor to a reliable point on the car chassis to see if it's really sitting crooked or not.

  11. One more thing to consider. We had an 04 Touareg that kept running down the battery (and had various other electronic glitches) and the problem ended up being, as I recall, either the KESSY (keyless entry) system or some other controller (there was also an issue with the steering angle sesnsor being shot). In any case, the net effect was that the car's computer systems would not "go to sleep" after the car was shut off and the battery kept running down as a result. The excellent service folks (talk to Fred) at Ed Carroll Porsche/VW in Fort Collins, CO tracked it down and fixed it.

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