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niebyl2002

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Everything posted by niebyl2002

  1. I also prefer to go with OEM, however recently I bought Cryo Power Slots rotors, the price is about the same as OEM. They are slotted, the huts are painted either black o silver and they look pretty stock. They are just wonderful. No squeaking and braking feels much better. Fit is perfect. I'm really happy with them so far.
  2. I did the carfax report before I got the car. From the report I found where the car was purchased and registered. Then I call local Porsche dealer and politely ask if he can fax me the records. Service guy just ask for my fax number and voila. I received my info starting from 0 miles. If Porsche service won't give it to you, call next day and then next week. Try to note who did you talk to. Eventually somebody will give you those informations.
  3. just found on the ebay -------> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts-Acces...A1%7C240%3A1318 Less than $10 shipped, two colors available black and white. check with the seller for other colors.
  4. Stay away from all sorts of replica's. My Boxster came with OEM 17" wheels. Small light weight wheels. They were ok but I wanted to go bigger. Hmmm. I fought why fork out over $1000 for used 18" Carrera Turbo Wheels when you can get new Turbo wheels (replica) for $600, with correct offset, no spacers necessary. Nice deal, right. WRONG. After a year rear wheels are bent like uneven!!! egg if I can describe it that way. I live in Florida so the roads are pretty good. I've never hit anything with them. In addition they are so heavy, that the car doesn't respond to me like it used too. The car is much slower than with OEM wheels. Beside that they look pretty nice. Paint doesn't peel. They're still shiny. My recommendation for you is, save more cash and buy used well known brand wheels (make sure they are straight and true) rather than buying new garbage that you would have to replace after a while. Check our forum - for sale, check ebay, craiglist and etc.... If all you care is how your car looks like then I would go with replicas and those 997tt wheels are hot. I was thinking about them for a while but the OEMs are going for over $3K. BTW I buying these next week.
  5. Thanks. I was suprised with the results too. I think at this point I'll stick to the Mobil.
  6. Here's mine. Boxster MY99 with 108500 miles, 7500 miles on oil Mobil 1 15W/50. Blackstone_Lab___Porsche_Boxster_1999_as_of_mod.pdf Chevron fuel cleaner added to fuel every second fill up.
  7. I had the same problem, so I took it out and clean it with brake cleaner and ear swabs. I also submerged the whole ICV valve in brake cleaner for some time for a build up to loosen a bit. That helped alot. FYI the flap should be shiny. BTW I also have a small gap, flap does not close completly.
  8. I had the same clicking noise, actually more like huge click. Anyway I bought damper pads for front calipers and the that noise is gone. On one side of the damper pad there are two cylinders that you insert inside a caliper on the other side there is a metal plate with kind of dbl side tape. Once you do the whole procedure correctly there will be no movment/vibration to a brake pads. For a $22 a piece (you need 4 for front) it's a quite cheap OEM fix. Here's link just to give you overall idea: Pelican Parts BTW is says it is for 996 Carrera 2/4 (1999-04), Boxster S (2000-04) in fact it fits also (1997-04) Boxster
  9. I can recommend Dan in Oldsmar, FL. It is no more than 15 min from you. He is working on my cars past 5 years. He is seriously good and honest. I belive he is ex-dealer mechanic. He's working only on Europeans cars. Mostly in Porsches, Bimmers and MB's. If you want and if it's ok with site rules here's his phone number 813-891-9118 ask for DAN. You won't be disappointed. Let me know if you want more info.
  10. I would say 85122+ is between 85122 and 85123. It's not blue/purple but not as white as 4300K. Bulb 85122+ is to match your old 85122. So if one of your 4 years old 85122 died, you would buy 85122+. The best are 85123 and it is almost impossible to get. It takes me more than 7 months to buy one. What I would do if I were, I would buy philips 85122+ or osram xenarc (PAIR). Osrams change color really nice (hint of purple). You probably've seen acura's headlights. Or if you have enough patience start looking for used 85123. Belive me it is worth it. If anyone is interested I have one spare 85123 - blue (look at Honda S2000) - just pm me. I left purples for myself. One more thing. Make sure to buy both bulbs from the same car. 85122 bulbs you can get on ebay for $20 a pair, 85122+ and xenarc around $40-60 a pair and the most expensive one is 85123 around $50 per bulb. DON'T BUY A NEW ONES - waste of money
  11. Actually it is 5000K. Look at the bulb - 4300K is 85122 (very old model), 5000K is 85123 (they stop making them - color is blue/purple). The most current bulb is Philips 85122+. It is called colormatch. The newest one that will not fit our lights is D4S. Instead of 35W they use 55W.
  12. I was watching that topic for some time. I even add my $0.02, so I hope I won't upset a lot of people here with my comment. How come you like those aftermarket kits. First of all you have to drill holes to make it work or use zip ties. So right now your lights are attached to body with cable. Aftermarket bulbs got a lot of glare, different color and are much dimmer than stock ones(if above 5000K). I'm not saying that my solution (look at the beginning of the thread) is perfect. After this mode I change my lights to litronics like a lot of people. But if you are handy just a little bit you can get original ballast and bulbs really cheap on ebay (use nissan, bimmer, audi, etc.). Then spend 2 hours modifying rear cover and DONE. Sealed, almost like litronics headlight - no cables, no ties, duct tape or anything else.
  13. Carrera turbo twist offsets are around 65. I'm not sure. Replicas are 50 or 55. Replicas were perfectly fine with stock suspensions but after I added coils and decided to lowered it they were too close to the strut. Suspension is really stiff so no worrier. I could drive like that but again I wanted to lower it more. Anyway it looks like that now.
  14. Yes. They should be closer to transaxle. Final pics with 7mm H&R spacers
  15. I change shocks for coils and rear coils were very close to inner side of the rim, so I added H&R 7mm spacers. I have 18" turbo twist. Unfortunetly replicas with same as original boxster 17" wheels offset. Car look just right. I will try to post a pic tonight.
  16. I changed engine mount at 75K miles and the car still clunk(ing). I found somewhere on the forum that it could be because of either worn out strut mounts or upper track arms or both. I'm retty much ready to change whole suspension 'cause that rattling and shaking is really annoying.
  17. I just gave my car away to the mechanic. My suspension feel like yours, it is 90K miles on original parts. I can hear clunk in the rear. Car shake and rattle alot, plus I feel a lot of play on steering wheel. Anyway I will be changing struts and springs, control arms, swaybar bushings, tierods maybe wheel bearings. I will do alignment also. I bought coils so I don't have to worry about strut mounts. Once I pick up my car I let you know if those parts change anything.
  18. The first mod I did after I bought my Boxster, I took it to the Porsche dealer for a whole inspection ONLY. Then took it to my mechanic to double check it. So SERVICE was my first MOD. Did the maintance with all parts that needed to be replaced. One of them was cracked cooling tank. and then I started to upgrading my car: * litronics * side clear blinkers * paint calipers red with porsche logo * taillights * front bumper mesh * savannah beige shift knob * 18" turbo wheels and tires * coilovers * K&N filter Future mods: * headers and exaust * evo intake ** Porsche 996 MAINTANCE is way more important for me than the UPGRADES
  19. I read lot of info about about desnorkeling Boxsters, so I decided I will be the next one to take it out. I took it out last week. Yesterday heavy rain caught me while driving. Pretty close to home I noticed slight lower performance plus a little bit of hesitation when accelerating. Rpm needle was bouncing up and down, +- 200rpm. No code was thrown. I parked my car. Today car is driving great. All problems are gone. So I'm thinking, did my car suck some water. How much? Anyway I found that somebody cut the tube in 1/4 of the length and attach the "small bowl" back. Sorry for the description. I did exactly same thing. Put it back. Same great sound and car won't take any water ever again. Let's hope so.
  20. I will find it out in 2 weeks. I just ordered them. Thanks for help
  21. Build up inside the bulb is ok. It could be white, yellow, red, etc. You can get bulbs really cheap on the ebay like $30 for both. Make sure you buy two bulbs from the same car. IMPORTANT Bulbs with different hours life will have different color. I bought just one bulb and to my suprise color did not match. 8 bulbs later finally bought used philips 85122+ from ebay for like $30. And don't buy new ones not worth it.
  22. Great info. I guess coils are stiffer. Thanks
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