rjf123

Okay. But how do you remove the plastic box that surrounds the CDC and DVD drive? Do I just pry it with a screwdriver and expect it will pop off? I just don't want to break it as you can imagine. I don't see any screws holding them in place.

Thanks,

Ross

Could someone please explain how I remove the cowling and carpeting from the front boot in the 997 with 4 - wheel drive.

I have a CDC and Navigation DVD drive which are fixed to the walls of the boot and I can't figure out how to remove them. (I assume they have to be removed first). Also the upper rear cowling has about 6 screws in it, which are easy to remove, but it still won't budge.

If anyone can give step by step directions, that would be great.

Ross

Could someone please explain how I remove the cowling and carpeting from the front boot in the 997 Turbo w 4 - wheel drive.

I have a CDC and Navigation DVD drive which are fixed to the walls of the boot and I can't figure out how to remove them. (I assume they have to be removed first). Also the upper rear cowling has about 6 screws in it, which are easy to remove, but it still won't budge.

If anyone can give step by step directions, that would be great.

Ross

As expected, the dealer says "new engine", case closed.

Agree with all the possible scenarios to repair, but not really something I want to get into. So the car will go.

It's probably worth more in parts than anything else, and thus a breaker has offered me $5000. I'll probably take it, unless someone ups him substantially.

It's on ebay here if anyone is interested: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1999-Porsche-911-No-Reserve-/140611098893?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item20bd13190d

Thanks everyone for your help.

Ross

Thanks, everyone.

I'll let you know what the shop has to say.

Ross

Thanks very much. I will get it to the shop immediately.

But answer me this, if you would...

With the miles on the car it's truely just not worth that much. And the cost of a head replacement likely goes beyond what I'd be willing to put into a car worth (I'm guessing) $10k. (And that price assumes it's running!)

So the car's probably a write off. That being the case, it's probably time to just trade it in and move on. My question is what will happen if I just keep driving it? (it actually goes fine) Will it die suddenly leaving me stranded, or a slow death blowing smoke and just get worse and worse? If the latter, how much time would you estimate I have to find a 997?

Thanks,

Ross

My coolant light started flashing the other day. So I checked the coolant and it was very low, and it appeared like thick chocolate. I topped up the coolant with fresh porsche coolant and distilled water. Checked it the next day to find the pink color turned hot cocoa powder brown and thick.

So I started reading the forum, and I think what I'm looking at is what poeple are terming "intermix".

Can someone explain what this is, what the causes are, and why it's sounds so devistating to the engine?

Before I rush to the dealer (as it sounds like may be necessary) is there anything I can do myself to try and diagnose and fix the problem?

FWI, the car is a 1999 996 with 180000 miles. It's on its second engine which has 85000 miles. I did a recent oil change and saw nothing unusual - ie I didn't notice coolant in the oil.

Thanks...

Ross

Great thread. I just fixed mine with a new frame from Jeff at Sunset. I think it was about $45 shipped. It is nice not having the horn blast every time I hit the brakes. It had gotten so frequent I had to remove the fuse and go without a horn. The rubber bushes were not torn, but were very spongy and soft.

Local dealer said I had to buy a whole new steering wheel! Glad I looked here first since I didn't really know which part was failing from the PET diagrams.

Hi All,

I'm trying to do this fix, but I can't get the 2 screws behind the steering wheel to budge. I'm using a Torx screwdriver which feels like it's seating normally, but the screws seem much tighter than I would expect.

Am I doing something wrong? Are these screws usually this tight? And should I just try harder?

Thanks in advance,

Ross

Loren,

I have a 99 996 C2 with 160,000 miles. Somewhere around 80,000 miles I replaced the springs / struts with the ROW M030 package.

I've been very happy with this, but now the front struts are showing their age. There's a knock when going slowly over bumps and a vibration that sets up on some highways.

My question involves replacing the struts without replacing the entire M030 kit. The spings and sway bars are fine, so I don't feel the need to spend dollars on them. But the struts alone (996 343 043 13) are twice the cost of the Bilstein sport (VN7-4613-M12) or Bilstein heavy duty (VN7-4612-M12) struts.

Other than a couple of days a year, the car is really used for everyday driving. Can I safely use the sport or heavy duty strut with the rest of the M030 kit? I'd like to preserve the ride height and obviously not create a dangerous situation. If it is ok, which of the 2 struts (sport or heavy duty) will better match the M030 kit? (the Bilsein web site says the sport is firmer and for a lowered car, but I wanted to hear your opinion)

Thanks in advance,

Ross

One bolt and remove. Likely corroded in place. Careful twisting and pulling.

Install tips.

Before installation, ensure that there are no metal chips at the magnetic edge of the speed sensor.

The gap between speed sensor and pulse wheel is determined by the design and cannot be adjusted.

There is no O-ring between speed sensor and wheel carrier.

1. Coat speed sensor and the bore in the wheel carrier with Molykote Longterm 2.

2. Without using excessive force, insert speed sensor into wheel carrier and tighten the hexagon socket head bolt to 7.5 ftlb.

3. Test with Durametric or PST2 oe PIWIS tester.

Thanks Loren. Agree it looks corroded. I think I need a bigger hammer!

Ross

How do you remove the ABS speed sensor from the front wheel carrier? I removed the screw, but the sensor won't budge. Seems incredibly tight for an electric sensor, maybe I'm doing something wrong?

Also, once out, any tricks to reinserting it??

Thanks in advance...

Ross

while we're on the topic, my 02 C4S with the xenon headlights seems to not illuminate far enough down the road, but it's plenty bright, it's as if it's angled too far down, is there a way to adjust this? (sorry if i'm jacking this thread)

The headlight adjustment procedure is in your Owners Manual.

Thanks Loren!

Well, I replaced the headlight switch today. No problem doing the replacement, but my lighting problem remains exactly the same!! The new switch didn't solve the problem. :(

Where should i look next?

It strikes me as interesting that all the problems are on the right side. Could this be a problem with the turn signal switch cluster?

Thanks again,

Ross

Sure sounds like a bad headlight switch to me.

Thanks so much!

Ross

My headlights starting acting strange last week, and seem to be getting worse with time.

Initially, the right parking light was out. I tried new known good bulbs to no effect. Then, i noticed that with driving lights on, the right parking light would come on, but only dimmly.

A few days later i noticed that with the driving lights on, the right flasher wouldn't flash. (It would work fine with the driving light off!) Then today, the right high beam stopped working properly: it only comes on dimmly, and when the high beams are on, the driving lights come on dimmly (even when they're turned off) and the right flasher again won't work!

All fuses look fine. The right headlamp cluster plug and socket look ok.

I did a search: am i right to conclude that i need a new headlight switch?

Thanks,

Ross

Good point about the clutch switch, the ignition switch on the contrary am not convinced, it's possible, in some cases with a faulty switch, to activate the starter motor and loosing contact with the ignition at the same time, due a defective inner switch. The DME and pump relays are also a possibility to check. You can hear the fuel pump running in the front trunk, let a helper start and put your ear on the trim behind the spare wheel.

Thanks. I'll do some more poking around.

Ross

I would check the clutch pedal switch, the fuel pump and the ignition switch first, there are more possibility's depending on time to spend.

The clutch pedal switch and ignition switch work fine as the car turns over just fine. If they weren't working, i'd expect to get just nothing.

The fuel pump, fuel injection, or no spark from the ignition system seem likely - but not sure how to check these without a computer reader. Is there a way to do this??

Ross

After some cranking (not too much, 10 seconds max then wait until trying again) go put your nose at the exhaust outlet. You should smell raw fuel. If you don't there is likely a fuel pump/delivery issue. Fuel smell present points as you mention to ignition or computer woes.

good luck

Ok, tried this. I smell gas! So it's not the fuel delivery system. Anything i can try next?

Ross

I would check the clutch pedal switch, the fuel pump and the ignition switch first, there are more possibility's depending on time to spend.

The clutch pedal switch and ignition switch work fine as the car turns over just fine. If they weren't working, i'd expect to get just nothing.

The fuel pump, fuel injection, or no spark from the ignition system seem likely - but not sure how to check these without a computer reader. Is there a way to do this??

Ross

So, i returned from 10 day vacation and went to start the car. (99 996, 145000mi on odometer, 50000mi on engine) It worked perfectly fine when I left. Now, it turns over, but won't "catch". While the battery wasn't dead, per se, I did give it an overnight charge as it had been sitting for 10 days and the weather was cold. But this didn't change anything. Plenty of gas. Fuses look ok.

Any thoughts? I'm betting computer, but not sure how to prove this without a code reader. Anything i should try before calling AAA and hauling it off to the dealer?

Thanks in advance...

Ross

So here's what happened...

It turns out, the seal around the rear window glass is is a "double seal". This means it wraps around the glass edge on both the top and bottom surfaces. So for it to peal away as it did in my case, the two halves of the seal must be separating or tearing apart. Not just coming unglued.

To replace it properly, involves removing the glass, and reinserting with a new seal. Sounds easy enough, but apparently the glass is placed "under pressure" and everybody was in agreement that it will break on attempt at removal!

As such, the normal windshield places (you know, the ones that come to you in their truck) wouldn't even touch it. Some actually said they didn't know how to do it!!

Porsche would do it, but with no promise that the glass wouldn't break. If it did, replacement would be an extra $750.

So on the side, i said to the parts guy at Porsche, "why can't i just put silicone sealant around it, and forget it?" He replied "that's what I'd do." So that's what i did.

It looks fine. Is staying in place. And cost about $4 for the silicone.

Hope this helps other out there...

Ross

Hello,

Anyone had a problem like this? The seal around the glass of the rear window in my 99 996 is peeling up. Initially, it was just the corner, but now the whole thing is coming loose. I can push it back into the groove, where it will stay for a few days, only then to start to loosen again.

It this supposed to be glued down? If so, what kind of glue do I use? Or will replacing it with a new one solve the problem? No leaks as of yet, but I have a feeling that's not far beyond. Or worse, the glass coming loose!?

Any advice would be appreciated. I've included a picture so it's clear what I'm talking about.

Thanks in advance.

Ross

Ross,

I have the same problem with my 99 996. Mine is only at the corner and it’s been that way for some time. Please post the result of the fix. GL

Lee

Thanks, I'll look into this a bit more. Maybe a glass place can do this inexpensively.

For what it's worth, Lee. The corners were coming up for about 6 months before the rest started to come loose. Just so you know about how much time you might have. My car is a daily driver, but I do keep it garaged. Not sure what effect being out in the elements might have on the speed with which the seal fails.

I'll post the final outcome.

Ross

Hello,

Anyone had a problem like this? The seal around the glass of the rear window in my 99 996 is peeling up. Initially, it was just the corner, but now the whole thing is coming loose. I can push it back into the groove, where it will stay for a few days, only then to start to loosen again.

It this supposed to be glued down? If so, what kind of glue do I use? Or will replacing it with a new one solve the problem? No leaks as of yet, but I have a feeling that's not far beyond. Or worse, the glass coming loose!?

Any advice would be appreciated. I've included a picture so it's clear what I'm talking about.

Thanks in advance.

Ross

Ross,

I have the same problem with my 99 996. Mine is only at the corner and it’s been that way for some time. Please post the result of the fix. GL

Lee

Thanks, I'll look into this a bit more. Maybe a glass place can do this inexpensively.

For what it's worth, Lee. The corners were coming up for about 6 months before the rest started to come loose. Just so you know about how much time you might have. My car is a daily driver, but I do keep it garaged. Not sure what effect being out in the elements might have on the speed with which the seal fails.

I'll post the final outcome.

Ross

"Using the bonding gun, apply 2-component adhesive along the cover trim of the rear window in the form of a triangular bead. Dimension "X" = approx. 15 mm

When applying the adhesive, it is essential to ensure that it overlaps.

Note: Two persons are needed to insert and adjust the rear window."

Thanks! But I'm not sure I get it.

What's a "bonding gun"? And "two part adhesive"? Are you saying to use 2-part epoxy that comes in the double syringe type container from the auto parts store?

And make sure it overlaps what? Surely not the edges of window and paint. Epoxy on the paint doesn't sound like a good idea.

The window hasn't shifted, as the seal has never actually fully come out. So I don't think that's a problem. I imagine I could glue a section at a time, and thus avoid the window shifting.

Thanks again.

Ross

Hello,

Anyone had a problem like this? The seal around the glass of the rear window in my 99 996 is peeling up. Initially, it was just the corner, but now the whole thing is coming loose. I can push it back into the groove, where it will stay for a few days, only then to start to loosen again.

It this supposed to be glued down? If so, what kind of glue do I use? Or will replacing it with a new one solve the problem? No leaks as of yet, but I have a feeling that's not far beyond. Or worse, the glass coming loose!?

Any advice would be appreciated. I've included a picture so it's clear what I'm talking about.

Thanks in advance.

Ross

Loren,

Do you know where I can get an insturction manual to the roof transport system? A live link would be great. I understand TSB 2/97 6692 Installing Roof Transport System (RTS) (dated 12-22-2000) may be what I need, but can't find a live link to this. Can you help?

Thanks

Ross

I had a similar problem on my 996 at 97000 miles. The source can be either the valve guides or a blown cylinder ring. To figure this out requires starting with a leak down test. If you lose compression, the engine would need to be dissassembled to confirm the source. Either way, I learned that Porsche does not recommend rebuilding these engines. In fact, they don't even sell rebuild kits. They recommend a complete engine replacement. This is what I ended up needing -- happily under warrantee.

The battery in my 996 keeps going dead. I replaced it with a new battery, but still it will die if the car is left standing overnight. It occurs whether the alarm is armed or not. The alternator seems to be working, as it will recharge the battery, and, when running, the volt meter usually reads between 13 and 14 volts. When the battery is fully charged, and the engine off, the volt meter will usually read a litttle over 12 volts. But, when left standing for variable lengths of time, the voltage will slowly drop. It seems that if I disconnect the ground wire from the battery, it will hold its charge as normal.

Can anyone advise me how to trouble shoot this. How do I fugure out what is causing the battery to drain?