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About Jasper_db1

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  • From
    Anaheim CA
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    996 HR-V T100
  1. I'm going to leave my post from November alone in case anyone else stumbles upon it. The aftermarket passenger side lock assembly did fix the window drop feature on that door but it also introduced error code 12. Ultimately, this resulted in the car not really knowing if the doors were locked or not, causing the door lock button not work and the alarm going off when I would open the passenger door after thinking I unlocked the car - pretty embarrassing. I ended up replacing the aftermarket locks with factory replacements which were significantly more expensive ($300+ vs $30) but they work.
  2. To close out this thread, I checked the wiring with a multi-meter and everything checked out. Since I tried to save money by using VW door locks, I bit the bullet and bought a pair of factory locks from the dealer. The new factory locks fixed everything. Windows now stay down when the doors are open, the interior door lock switch works, the lights go on and off as they should, the doors can be unlocked and opened without the alarms going off, the fuel door lock works when the doors are locked, and the alarm can be set with the key.
  3. I was in the same boat a couple of months ago and went with the H&R RSS coil overs for my 1999 C2. From everything I've seen and read, the shocks either made by Bistein or use their internals. The RSS ride is firm but not rough as some might have you believe and I live in the Los Angeles area (crappy roads). I think the Street version would be perfect for a street car based on my experience with the RSS. The M030 kit was way too expensive - I ended up getting the H&R coil overs, sway bars, and Tarett top hats for less.
  4. Ran through test point 53 in FSM for code 58 and everything checks out. I tested the resistance on the old and new actuator and they were both in the min-40's so I don't think the old one was bad at all. I'm going to go through test point 56 for fault code 61 next week.
  5. After studying the Bently wiring diagram, I believe that the Fuel Door latch not working is possibly related to the frunk latch. I've noticed that the light in there does not always turn on when opening the lid and this thread seems to tie the two together:
  6. I just installed a new (aftermarket) door latch into the left door (drivers) along with a new right door latch and the codes persist. It seems that the 3rd party eBay door latches have a function that is not supported by the US spec cars, causing the Code 12 condition. Is there a way to pinpoint which door lock is causing the 61? I see other posts referencing looking at live values but I only see that under the DME in Durametric and not in the Alarm I32 section.
  7. I just replaced the fuel door actuator on my 1999 C2 and the fuel door still does not lock and I get a single beep when locking the doors with a key (remote does not work). Is there a fuse to the actuator? I have a Durametric and reset the codes but they return when I run the activations. Is there a fuse to the motor? If not, where is the relay located? I have the Bently manual and it only addresses how to R/R the motor, not troubleshoot it. 61 Central locking limit position Unlock not reached Status: present Occurance Counter: 1 58 Tank servo motor not energized despite relay activation Status: not present Occurance Counter: 2 This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed. 12 Wrong door lock module Status: present Occurance Counter: 1
  8. I ended up buying a replacement latch (PN 3D1837016A) for a 04-10 Volkswagen Beetle Golf Jetta on eBay for $30. (description is 3D1837016A Front Right Door Lock Actuator For 04-10 Volkswagen Beetle Golf Jetta) and installed it today. I trimmed away the red plastic bracket on the VW latch and transferred the interior door handle cable and exterior handle lever from the original Porsche part and everything fit perfectly. The new latch fixed the problem and it now stays down when the door is open.
  9. You're right. I re-read a bunch of posts on various forums after pulling the latches and have a better understanding of what I'm dealing with. There are essentially three groups of switches: inner door handle, outer door handle, and door latch/lock. Within the latch mechanism, there are two more switches in the passenger door and four on the drivers side. One of the common switches senses if the door is locked or not. The other common switch senses if the door is latched closed and is mounted on a wire to the mechanical side of the latch mechanism. This is the one that failed on my car so I'm going to need to replace it. The two switched on the drivers door latch that are not on the passenger side senses if the mechanical key lock is locked or not. It rides on a cam that actuates the cam that closes the common switch that senses if the door is locked or not. Some helpful threads: This helped me understand the three switch groups. http://www.rennsportkc.com/boxster996-window-issues/ This helped me identify the switch that senses when the door is closed or not (failure #3 in the rennsportkc post) https://forums.pelicanparts.com/6457649-post6.html Sourcing an inexpensive replacement latch by using parts from a VW: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/tech-tips/porsche-986-996-door-latch-replacement-with-vw-part/151397/page1/
  10. I'm a new owner of a 1999 C2 which had issues with door locks when I bought it. After a lot of research, I pulled both latches and resoldered the plug connections to the PCB which resolved most of the issues except this: on the passenger door, if I slightly pull the interior or exterior door handle, the window will drop down a half inch or so. Once I release the handle(s), the window will return to the full up position. This means that the door closes on the weather seal. If I pull on either the exterior or interior handle, the window will lower a bit and seal. The driver's side door window will stay in the lower position while the door is ajar and does not have this problem. Durametric no longer shows any faults and the door lock button now works correctly Are there other adjustments inside the latch I should be aware of or is something else causing this problem?
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