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JPSummers

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Everything posted by JPSummers

  1. Need to replace my hard brake lines from the ABS Unit to the splitter block and to both rear wheels. Anyone have a write up, video, photos, instructions on how they navigated this. Left side appears straight forward, more or less. Right Rear looks like a nightmare to route the line to. Yes, I have Flare Wrenches!
  2. Mine was built in March '97. I'm pullin' my hair out with this. Car was fine when I put it away for winter. However, batter tender got unplugged, battery died. Recharged & put back on tender. Upon uncovering for spring, Locks Don't work w/ Fob (Lock unlock, 2 beeps) or inside switch (nothing". Do work w/ key in door Windows don't work. No door handle drop, No top latch drop, switches don't work. However, when any microswitch or switch is activated there is a "click" in each door. Trouble shooting thus far to no avail: Top switch assy replaced, front & rear trunk microswitches checked good, wiring checked good, door latches replaced (Franlensteined New Mechanicals w/ Old Electrics) '97 models had totally different door locks (8 pin) than all other models. Installed 2nd Central Control/Immobilizer Unit (matched to car & DME), Fuses C3 & D1 are fine and have power. '97 models also have no central locking communication with the Durametric. OBDII was too new at the time. Ideas, suggestions, prior fixes, This is really making me hate the car and all I want to do is drive it a little. Thanks.
  3. Same Problem. First nice day we've had. I uncovered the car ('97 986 Base) to run it. Windows won't work. Won't lower to open/close the doors, won't lower to put the top up/down, switches don't work. Everything worked fine when I parked it in November. When Opening the door (from inside or out) & hear the "click" in the door. When Operating the Switches, same thing When Lowering the top, same thing. When activating the Courtesy Window function via Durametric computer, same thing Fuses D1 & C3 are fine. Push Button "Reset", no use Push on window while actuating switch, no use. Microswitches in Top Latch seem to be working fine. Over winter the battery had discharged. Recharged and placed on battery maintainer. I highly doubt two window regulators would go at once with no warning. Locking button on dash doesn't work and car doesn't want to lock via the fob. Could these be related? Immobilizer was replaced last year. Every thing worked fine, til now. Thoughts, Ideas, similar issues solved please.
  4. Update on my top situation. I followed Maurice's instructions (link below) and swapped out the FUBAR'd '97 to an '04 assembly, Sliders, Clamshell Armatures, Transmissions, Relay control box....everything except the motor. I was able to find an '04 Glass Window top locally for less than $300. The guy threw in the mounting studs, Control Box & Pigtail for free. All told I spent less than $500 total. Yes, I got very lucky. Following Maurice's Excellent Instructions the job went quickly and relatively easily. I'd highly recommend this upgrade to anyone w/ the "A" model Top System. https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/removingthetopandframe
  5. Thank You again Maurice. Well, this is the first week I've had time since the pandemic hit I had to turn wrenches on cars. Last summer the car was staying at a friend's house, as I stripped & painted our house. He let the battery die, it rolled down it's windows and got the floor boards flooded. New Control Unit x2 (I got a Spare coded to the car & a 2nd ECU too). So I got back into the Top and tracking down more water leaks. Sealed up the Rain Trays, they were full of holes. Also got the Top Aligned, Adjusted & working properly. However, the forward mounting stud on the Driver's side (behind the air intake boot) is tearing loose. 2 cracks in the sheet metal, 1 about 1/4" long, another about 1/2" long. Does anyone have any advice for reinforcing this area? I'm thinking welding a reinforcement plate @ 3" in diameter w/ a stud welded to it. Thoughts please. UPDATE: Well it worked A-OK for a day. Top Down, Top Up twice....third time, Top Down, Top UP....STUCK DOWN. Some leverage on the Clamshell got it moving, then all hell broke loose. Thus far the car has turned three Top Push Rods into metal spaghetti, Bent two Boomerang Arms >30º and snapped another in two and is tearing the inner body panel at the mounting stud. This thing has some monster torque. The Alignment guides are popping out of the track runners (riding against the clamshell pushrod), then popping completely out of the boot area onto the quarter panel, and now it's 100% INOP. Last thing I attempted was simply disconnect the Top Linkages since they simply won't stay on the ball joints. Yes, I've replaced them four times and adjusted properly. Aligned the transmissions, to where I thought they should be from previous posts and guidance. And only use the motor for the Clamshell only and raise & lower the top manually. All I want to do is raise/lower the clamshell with the switch and manually lower/raise the top itself, like a Miata or early VW Cabrio. Until such point I replace the top. If anyone knows where to start, what to do, how to get this thing aligned properly and synchronized please PM me. This is a '97, w/ the very early style Top transmissions that have 100% metal gears and the 240º main gear, driven by a brass worm gear. Yes, 60º of the gear was designed w/ NO Teeth. It has NO B-Pillar Switch and NO Safety Stop Switches. This IS how it was made. The Cables are 100% A-OK and do a great job driving to the point it breaks cast steel and bends 1/4" steel rod into a pretzel. Later model instructions will be totally useless. I need some detailed instructions, measurements and guidance. An Assembly drawing of the entire transmission would be good. With proper alignment of the gear, V-Arm and Initial Positioning.
  6. Finally, a warm day in Ohio. I hooked up the Durametric. Still P1531 Code. Cams were showing 9 on bank 1, 0 on bank 2. Bank 1 adjusted as necessary with increased & decreased RPM. Bank 2 remained at 0. Next warm series of days, I'll be able to do voltage and resistance tests on the solenoid and harness.
  7. JFP Thank You. That helps a lot for diagnosis. Your advice verified my line of testing prior to shelling out a lot of $$$ for pieces parts. Actuator replacement on the early models looks like a PITA. Especially with the engine in the vehicle. Tight spaces and no room for error on reassembly. Had the car out for Test Drive today. @ 40 miles, some back roads, some city, some highway. Highest rev was 5k. Car ran smooth and flawless. Just the CEL driving me nuts. I hate, hate, hate persistent CEL's. I wish there was a way to Store codes and not have it illuminate again until a new code is detected. I'll post an update when I get around to testing. Then my solution when it's done. Thank You! Stay Well.
  8. Different problem. '97 986 Boxster, 146,000 miles. Throwing a P1531 Code. Which is indicative of Variable Cam Adjustment Solenoid or Actuator, Bank 1 Cylinders 1-3. That's the ONLY mechanical code it's showing, no others. From reading the Variocam information I should have Idle or hesitation issues below 1,300 rpm or above some high rev rpm I'll never see. Any issues mentioned in my reading aren't present. I'm using an iCarSoft CRPro 2 Test unit and have a couple Volt/Ohm Meters & Leads. The '97 DME/ECU doesn't give out much information, if any on most systems. Car runs smooth, starts quickly, Idles as specified @850, accelerates smoothly and quickly in exact response to throttle input, decelerates the same, even when down shifting. By all outward appearances the Variocam Solenoid and Actuator are operating as they should. Thoughts on potential causes for the code short of the Actuator or Solenoid. I know what's involved in replacing them and the cost. Both are painful in more ways than one and I'd love to avoid that project if possible as would my checkbook. Could it be a Cam Position Sensor, Bad Terminal Connection, Bad Ground? A link to a trouble shooting procedure or what to look for & where would be appreciated. I need this thing to pass Ohio E-Check before June 20th. Thank You.
  9. Maurice, The photos are exactly what I needed. My eternal gratitude for posting them. I'm sure it'll assist others with this finicky set up. The virus has definitely changed things around here. Ohio locked down relatively early. However, the weather's been Ohio like most of the time. relatively cold & wet and forecasts of snow this weekend. Yes, snow in May in N.E. Ohio isn't unusual. Thank You for posting the photos. They're a GREAT help. 🙂 UPDATE: May 23, 2020 Finally it stopped snowing & raining in Ohio. Got a good day to monkey wrench around. Maurice, I owe you a couple Adult Beverages. The Photos of the linkages in the Service position worked 100% PERFECT. I replaced the V-Arms, one was bent, both top Push Rods, they were bent 90º. Top goes up & Down, Fully with no issues, problems or misalignments. THANK YOU!!!
  10. Maurice, Thank you! Yes, It's an early model "A Version". The version with the Main Gear that's toothed for @ 270º rather than 360º. I opened one of the transmissions and it was all metal gears, in good condition. I went ahead and cleaned & lubricated them. The Cables themselves are crosshatched, the sheathing smooth. They're both engaged fine. Thanks, Jay
  11. Hey guys n gals, The P.O. of my '97 Boxster FUBAR'd the Top Linkage V-Arm arrangement. And a few other things but I'm not working on those today. Both Top Push Rods were bent beyond repair, One had a shattered Ball Joint, the other broke off the push rod at the Ball Joint. Could someone PLEASE Post a Photo of the Linkage Arrangement & V-Arm in the Service Position, R & L Sides. I highly suspect he had the V-Arms in upside down or swapped around, I'm not sure. One was even bent. I've replaced the Push Rods & Bushings, Rail Slides and everything that wasn't broken. It's a '97 with the Original All Metal Transmissions. Unfortunately, all the articles regarding Top Transmissions & repairs are Later Models. The Gears are A-Ok. Thanks in Advance :-)
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