Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Willow5

Members
  • Content Count

    39
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Willow5

  1. Hi, My 2005 4.5l Cayenne last had replacement Aluminium coolant pipes done in 2010. Since then, it has covered 100k so clearly need to renew the O rings. Question: does anyone know how to separate the 3 pipes into the upper thermostat housing ? They seem to be well and truly stuck in there. I tried heating it a bit and only managed to move it a little bit out but I am concerned with the fragile Aluminium that I could damage them if I continue with brute force.
  2. Doesn't anyone here know the function of the door tailgate switch?? I came across this article on another forum which describes exactly what I am encountering. Please can someone kindly confirm this is the operation of the tailgate switch and keyfob? Tail Gate Wont Open From Key Fob or Drivers Door - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM Cayenne 955-957 2003-2010 - Tail Gate Wont Open From Key Fob or Drivers Door - Morning All, I have just purchased a...
  3. Hi there. Before I go and get the scan done and spend more time troubleshooting, please can someone kindly confirm the operation of the tailgate switch in the drivers door. I read on a touareg forum that the function of the switch is as follows: "On mine (an '04) that switch only allows you to open the hatch after you have locked the car. ie, flip the switch, get out of the car and lock it, go to the rear and open the hatch using the switch above the license plate, retrieve your packages, close the hatch and the car re lockets itself. The feature times out after about a
  4. @JFP in PA, I understand thanks. Are there any other troubleshooting guides online that I could take a look at ? My troubleshooting logic is this: There is clearly a connection between the drivers door control unit and the rear part of the car given that I can open the fuel cap. The control unit clearly has access to the CAN bus in order for this part to function. The tailgate itself and all the motors are fine given that I can open all rear doors fine with the buttons on the rear. The tailgate switch is also working fine. My only other thought was that there could be a
  5. @JFP in PA, ok then are there any further troubleshooting techniques I could do in absence of a PIWIS or reader? I read the voltage at the tailgate switch pins in the drivers door card and they check out ok but I have 4 wires and the diagrams I have seen only show 2...slightly confused by this
  6. Hi @JFP in PA, if I were to simply replace the driver door control unit, could this be done without any reprogramming, for example, is it a simple plug and play swap ? I could source one quite easily from ebay.......are these prone to going bad?
  7. Hi @JFP in PA and @Loren, to be honest I am not sure I will get hold of such a scanning device anytime soon given the lockdown. In absence of this, can I get an idea of what sorts of issues could cause the faults I am observing. Could this be a driver door control unit issue for example?
  8. Hi @Loren, forgive me but what type of things could such a scan pick up? I am of the opinion (rightly or wrongly) that this is a hardware issue like a broken wire or ground issue, what do you think?
  9. Hi @Loren, no not as yet. I assumed this was a simple wiring/grounding issue given the following conditions are true: 1) the rear tailgate switch appears to be working fine 2) the fuel cap release switch from the drivers door is working fine which is also routed into the drivers control unit 3) there is voltage on the pins foing into the tailgate release switch 4) the switch itself is ok Right now, I have 3 unresolved issues: 1) starter motor is sluggish and never starts on first turn. Always takes at least 2 turns to fire up 2) rear tail
  10. Thank you @Rick150. Is there a diagram similar to the one I posted above that shows the "tailgate switch" and the "tank cover unlocking switch" which routes into the "driver door control unit". I am only interested in this now as those controls are on the drivers door and that is where the problem is
  11. Hi @Rick150, no need to check the fuse as the tailgate opens and closes perfectly when I use the handle at the rear. Please can you kindly send me all the wiring diagrams for the interior lights circuits as that is where the switch for the tailgate release is located. I have this diagram but it makes no sense to me as both the fuel flap and tailgate lid switches are connected to the same wires. Can you explain it at all as I am baffled by it. Also I have 4 wires going into my tailgate switch, not 2. The other 2 are VIO/WHI and Brown which are not shown here
  12. Hi @Rick150, hope you are keeping well during these times. Can you please dig out thr wiring diagram for the interior tailgate release button as I think I am getting close to resolving this issue but need to identify where this button routes. In the past you send me some diagrams but nothing with the interior tailgate release button so far. Just out of interest, I read somewhere that this button is disabled if the cayenne thinks it has a towbar fitted. Question is how do I disable a towbar if the cayenne thinks it is installed? Can't see anything visually near the rear
  13. Hi @Rick150 and @JFP in PA. Please can one of you kindly point out where MB23 is located? I see from the diagrams that it is the left side of the dash but what I don't quite know is whether it is buried under the footwell carpet or whether it is actually somewhere to the left of the centre console? The reason I think it is important to trace is because it is linked indirectly to the rear comfort systems module via the signal horn and this is one connection I haven't addressed. On another note, I tried cleaning the joints under the wiper arm cowls but this has not has t
  14. Thank you both. @Rick150, I will be cleaning them tomorrow because I simply couldn't get in the small opening with my drill attachment. Do you have any images that show what connects to GP11, 12, 13 and 14 in terms of wiring diagrams? @JFP in PA, good idea. Which wires should I test? There are an awful lot of them. Also do you know where the negative ground strap to the starter motor is physically routed inside the engine bay so I can feel for any heat? Thanks both, this is a lengthy process but hopefully will pay off soon
  15. Sorry for the additional clarification but do you mean the connections near the battery (i.e. under the seat area) or under the bonnet please ? slightly confused :S Will try to clear the warnings but have no diagnostic reader, will try to get hold of one and see what happens..... Anyway, today I cleaned up MB42, MB43, MB20 and MB21. Nothing appeared to change from before so then I decided to pop the hood and looked at GP11, GP12 and GP14 and I must say that they looked visually awful with white surface corrosion to the terminals as they are directly under the windshield
  16. Hi @Rick150, the CCA of the starter battery is 900A and the battery itself is brand new so I can eliminate any battery related issues. Unfortunately I don't have a diagnostic unit that can read the voltage curve when starting. Where are the terminals you mentioned related to starting? Happy to put my hand on them but not sure if they are under the bonnet or near the battery fuses. I forgot to say that I also have a 3rd fault which is: 3) Air Suspension Faulty Workshop error message appearing on the screen when I switch the car on Is there any way
  17. Hi @Rick150. Well it seems that the original problem I had with the central locking has been resolved by re-doing various earth points around the car and in the boot. The strange thing though is that there is no audible warning when the alarm goes off and the motion detector detects movement inside the car (I tried this by having the window down then putting my arm inside once the car was alarmed). The only warning is the hazard lights flashing. That aside, I am left with 2 main problems: 1) starter motor is very slow to start the car, always starts on 2nd attempt not
  18. Thanks @Rick150. I feared this was the case...there appears to be a plastic cover under the chassis directly under the bolt. Do you know how to remove this cover at all? Just a couple of extra questions if I may: 1) Do any sensitive electronic equipment need to be removed prior to welding (e g. ECU)? 2) What type of welding would suit this joint: MIG or ARC? (Bearing in mind I need someone to come to me instead of driving the car to a garage) 3) Can I just buy a normal M6 nut and weld it as a captive nut from under the vehicle or do I need to buy a special nut
  19. Hi @Rick150, sorry for the delay, I have been troubleshooting this over the past few weeks. So tonight, I think one of the grounding points could have possibly been the reason for this problem. The ground point in question from your diagram is MB26 (under the UK side drivers seat). It was barely hand tight and has 2 pairs of heavy duty brown wires going into this junction. When I tried tightening it up, unfortunately the bolt snapped which means I now have a problem. Do you know how I can remove this bolt and renew it? It looks like it is bolted down but a standard 12mm socket seems too large
  20. Hi @Rick150, so the black wire coming out of relay 433 is connected to several other large black wires, it is this connection that I am querying as funnily enough there is also a problem with the starter motor. It doesn't start 1st time, always needs to be cranked 2 or 3 times before the car will start. The starter motor tries to start the engine then dies then I hear the starter motor spinning freely without engaging the flywheel then it finally starts the car. Given that relay 433 is connected to the car's ignition system, could this explain the reason behind this particular problem?
  21. Hi @Rick150So after some troubleshooting, I found the dredded corroded wire syndrome near the battery - all the spliced connections have some corrosion. In total there are 5 pairs of wires. I haven't yet repaired them but wondered if you could let me know which wires do which function ? There are several large black wires all connected together but I think brown is ground on this car, not black?
  22. Thank you @Rick150. How do you actually test a ground point please? Also do you have the other part lf the previous wiring diagram I attached please? Many thanks
  23. @Rick150, do you happen to have the rest of this diagram please and how the rear comfort unit connects to the front of the vehicle? I have done some extensive troubleshooting but still cannot locate the fault. The switch in the drivers door has voltage and the swotch itself is fine so I expect the problem lies between the front control units and the rear but I don't know where the cables are run to see whether there is a break somewhere i.e.under the transmission tunnel/centre console or the passenger footwells - do you know this information? Clearly there is power goin
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.