ADias

^ Thanks. Did your cover come with a cable and lock?

How about a picture or two.

This sounds very different than covers I have seen.

Below are shots of the cover (OEM Part No. 997-044-000-11) in various unfolding states. It is actually a neat design. The envelope and zipped cover can be tucked in the windshield. I do not think that the zipper in the rear is a problem - in my unit it is fully protected by a fabric flap and does not touch the body. Like any cover it is easier to put in place and remove with 2 people, but this design is far easier to put on than most as it self aligns.

Experience from people who actually used it is welcome.

I just purchased an OEM outdoor car cover for my 997.2 (I'm posting here as there may be more people with this type of cover). The thing comes inside a large flat zipped envelope and is permanently attached to it inside. Is it supposed to be used with the envelope attached to it? Won't the zipper scratch the paint?

It also has a couple of black thin ribbons terminated by a loop inside a plastic cylinder. The ribbons are towards the front at hood level. What are these things for?

Thanks for your comments and experience with this product.

The SC is important on a PDK car not for the throttle remapping but for the PDK shift remapping.

Contrary to what some said, SC is not required for suspension changes. When SC is engaged it switches PASM from Normal to Sport but that can be equally done with the PASM button. Actually, most people, when driving on regular road surfaces, switch PASM back to Normal when they engage SC Sport or Sport+

To the OP: yes, SC is a desirable option on a PDK car.

High-performance tires wear fast and get noisy. Any replacement will be quieter when new. You must match the tire brand/type/N-rating on all 4 tires. If you switch brands you must buy 4 tires.

My tire pick preference order is:

Michelin

Bridgestone

Pirelli

Continental

Someone said his rear tires have 20k miles... allow me: why do you drive a Porsche? :) 12k-14k miles on 911 rears is about max for a well driven 911. 9k-10k miles typical.

I have a C4S with PDK and I love it! It is my daily driver and has about 4500 miles on it after about 8 weeks. I've noticed on several occasions recently when driving in regular mode and stopped or at a slow roll the car won't immediately go when I press the accelerator. It seems to hesitate a second or two before the transmission engages. If I am headed up a slope the car will actually roll backward before the transmission engages. I'm starting to become a bit hesitant to pull out into traffic or to turn left across traffic coming toward me. I've looked for a dipstick to check the transmission fluid level but apparently this is not something that Porsche wants the end user to do.

Has anyone else had a similar experience with their PDK transmission?

There is a PDK software update. The US dealers have been very slow bringing it online.

Your experience re rolling back on a slope is odd since these cars have hill-assist !?

I have a 997.2 S with PDK. When I apply the brakes on rough road surface there is a continuous noise emanating from above the driver's legs, between the brake pedal and the steering wheel. The noise is more pronounced the rougher the asphalt and it sounds like a spring being released or similar.

I am taking the car to be checked but because there could many things that potentially create the noise, I am wondering if any of you have had something similar.

I suppose this could have equally happened on any 997.1, so your views will be much appreciated.

I have that also at the top of my driveway which is steep and scored. I have a 6 speed but from my "internet" research it is the abs activating. I am compensating by pushing harder on the brake pedal rather than using the brakes to slow down. I have to back down my driveway into the garage and because of the slope and the need to make a turn I prefer to roll down in neutral.

I do plan on chatting with the local service manager. Let us know what you learn. It may just be the abs.

ABS? How hard are you braking? ABS should not intervene all the time.

Don't even get me started about dealers. My local "Stealer" is filled with the most vile humans I have met. Even the cashier is a reptile with an attitude. I would never ever ever give them any business let alone buy a car from them. "Ludicrous pretense" sums it up nicely.

I have been in Ferrari dealerships that have treated me much nicer (Even though I made it apparent I had no intention of buying.)

That's a bummer. The guys at Hennessy here in ATL were just great - super nice, very helpful, and patient. I really enjoyed buying this car there and the service guys I met when I picked it up were just as helpful - showed me around the shop, answered my geeky questions with enthusiasm; I was kind of knocked over really. Their Lexus dealership is the same way (except I believe they think Lexus people don't want to see cars up in the air in the shop :D, so they don't do that bit. ). We've bought two Lexus there - both with very competitive pricing and with excellent service over the past several years. I hate to hear it when people drop that much coin on a car and don't get treated at least as well as when I buy a single pair of socks at Nordstrom. Hennessy treats us like...well, like they'd like to sell us some more cars down the road. And likely they will.

In the SF Bay Area I feel the same re Fletcher Jones (Porsche of Fremont) - a first class Porsche dealership. I cannot say the same about other Bay Area dealers.

Take a look at this THREAD discussing severe gunk buildup on Cayenne DFI engine's valves.

Will 997.2's 9A1 engines develop this?

Could anyone please put-up the pdf file of the 997.2 Owner's Manual?

Thank you in advance.

+1

Does the PDF come on a CD w/ the car these days?

No, not on CD and Porsche stopped distributing them in PDF form last year.

It does not make sense. For owners is a convenient thing to do searches and stuff. For prospective owners it is a marketing tool.

Could anyone please put-up the pdf file of the 997.2 Owner's Manual?

Thank you in advance.

+1

Does the PDF come on a CD w/ the car these days?

I was under the impression that OEM shocks are Bilstein to begin with.

Yes they are , but a budget version for the mainstream manufacturers. The aftermarket options are better materials , hence the longer warranty period.

And if one wants to remain stock, will a Bilstein replacement (non-OEM) behave the same as stock, with the same PASM behavior?

I was under the impression that OEM shocks are Bilstein to begin with.

How did tis happen? manufacturing defect or abuse?

Were 1st and 2nd gears hard from new?

DID PAG pay for it, or if not, what was the repair cost?

Did you try relieving the pressure on the steering wheel - by turning slightly in each direction?

Could it be a dead battery?

From the owners manual:

Key Stuck in Ignition?

* Do not insert the ignition key into the ignition if the vehicle battery is discharged: the ignition key can no longer be removed.

* The key cannot be removed until the vehicle electrical system is supplied with power again.

Eric:

I had the same thing on my 996 C4, but I only noticed it in my quiet garage, never in regular use. I never fixed it. I asked the dealer about it - he said it was nothing that would become worse. You can fix it under warranty, but chances are it will return.

How reliable has been the new DFI in the FL Cayennes? Any problems? minor or major?

I ask the question to extrapolate to new DFI boxers in the 997.2.

... Connect the battery to my car, leave the engine and all accessories/lights off (close doors and set alarm)..and then measure the voltage in an hour or so to see if there is a drain with the engine off. ...

If you have a private garage I recommend you do not lock the car w/ the alarm on, as that will put a load on the battery.

The advice you got above is good - check your battery connections and cables and make sure that they are intact and make good contact. The symptoms you describe point to a resistive load hanging on the battery but not on the alternator.

Hi Everyone,

Problem on steering. I have a 2006 Porsche 911 C4. Since day one, the steering has been uneven meaning that it is "looser" or has more give when I turn right and is "tighter" or more responsive when I turn left. The alignment is normal and straight and check many times. I've brought it back to the dealer 4 times and they've changed the steering rack but say there's nothing else more they can do. This has been extemely frustrating b/c its makes it unenjoyable to drive a sports car b/c of this difficult handling. I dont' know anything about the steering mechanism of Porsches, esp. a 4 wheel drive system but I'm thinking could there be a problem in the steering column or front drive system? Porsche corporate engineer coming next week to look at it with me. What else could I have them look at or demand to replace? Thank you.

Does your dealer recognize the problem? Have you driven other identical cars and found them different? If the answer is affirmative to both questions I think that you should ask your dealer to present the problem to PCNA's regional rep for evaluation and solution.

No the dealer tells me its fine but I drive it everyday and do indeed notice it. I keep bringing it back to them and each time they tell me its fine. I've driven other 997s and 996s and do not feel this unevenness. I called corporate and they are indeed sending a regional rep to come take a look. Will keep you updated. Any suggestions as to what this can be? Thanks again.

Given that you exchanged the steering rack, I wonder if alignment, namely alignment centering is correct. I would also look at suspension components - perhaps there's a difference between both sides.

You realize that the 997 has a nonlinear steering rack. Slower in the center and faster as you turn past 30deg. You should drive your car and another similar car back-to-back on the same route to compare.

Others around here will for sure know more.

Hi Everyone,

Problem on steering. I have a 2006 Porsche 911 C4. Since day one, the steering has been uneven meaning that it is "looser" or has more give when I turn right and is "tighter" or more responsive when I turn left. The alignment is normal and straight and check many times. I've brought it back to the dealer 4 times and they've changed the steering rack but say there's nothing else more they can do. This has been extemely frustrating b/c its makes it unenjoyable to drive a sports car b/c of this difficult handling. I dont' know anything about the steering mechanism of Porsches, esp. a 4 wheel drive system but I'm thinking could there be a problem in the steering column or front drive system? Porsche corporate engineer coming next week to look at it with me. What else could I have them look at or demand to replace? Thank you.

Does your dealer recognize the problem? Have you driven other identical cars and found them different? If the answer is affirmative to both questions I think that you should ask your dealer to present the problem to PCNA's regional rep for evaluation and solution.

I'm surprised by the low estimates. I checked for a simple chip repair and respray of the front bumper and I was quoted $1200. I would like to know who does it - well - for less in the SF Bay Area.

The statement from ADias is without foundation

Everyone here is entitled to there own opinion. Please respect your fellow members opinions.

There is need to flame other individuals - please re-read the board Guidelines/Rules (that you agreed to when you registered here).

Loren, I am not trying to inflame anything, my statement regarding the post from Adias was that the statement was wrong in that he said :- "Direct answer: shifting without the clutch should never be done"

It was delivered as the be all and end all not as an opinion - and i stand by what i said in that factually it is incorrect.

If i have come across as inflamatory then i appologise.

I tried to answer the original post in a simple terms as possible, i wanted the poster to know the consequences of clutchless shifts if they are done wrong but above all i wanted to answer his question.

If indeed clutchless shifting should never be done then surely the reason for this statement should be added so the poster has something to evaluate.

My post, i believe, set out the pros and cons, i tried to explain what is happening to the components so the poster has an informed viewpoint, my post was not my opinions but a factual reply.

The comment :- "But as you said, it's your car, you can abuse it as you please" further re-enforces the absolute statement that it should not be done, which i feel did not answer the original question (now this is my opinion)

Note to all, I know my posts can be somewhat controversial but i am not trying to inflame anything but simply to promote lively debate and discussion.

Loren, I will abide by the rules

You are correct. My statement was definitive - to shift without a clutch is wrong. Of course, you can attempt to shift without it and play russian roulette and hope that the synchros survive. The clutch is there for a reason.

Thanks for the reply Glyn, that's the kind of answer I was expecting not the slap on the hand don't do it approach stated by others. I never force my gears or grind the box, It would be stupid of me to do on a fine german car like ours. Since I don't race,redline or peel-off or do any crazy thing on my porsche, Im sure It will last a long time. Thanks

There's nothing wrong about redlining a properly warmed boxer engine. I do it all the time. I do not shift without a clutch though and I do know all about synchros and gear meshing... To each his own.

Direct answer: shifting without the clutch should never be done.

But as you said, it's your car, you can abuse it as you please. This is why I do not usually buy pre-owned manual cars.

I think that the stock 996 w/ 18" rims is at the limit of expansion joint/broken pavement pounding abuse acceptance on many CA freeways. I would not put 19s on a 996 or non-PASM 997.