500

History: Purchased new by me with 3 miles on the odo, no tracking and broken in by the book. At about 17k miles I noticed noisy valve clatter one morning upon start up which went away and never returned, but the car began drinking oil like a drunken sailor and the driver's side exhaust began getting very sooty; this all turned out to be from a faulty piston and or cylinder which required engine replacement.

thnx

Had the same issue with my 07 S several months ago...the dealership had to replace some cables and other parts which was all done under warranty, they were also aware of the issue. The repair made it about 50% better but it wasn't until my engine needed replacement two months ago that I realized something else was also causing the slow crank as now it cranks and sounds like it should when doing so.

Went back and read the entire thread...am I correct saying that the noise was was due to the IPD part being installed in the first place? Thanks

Thanks for posting this. My 07 997S just had a new engine installed due to as bad pioston and I started noticing a rattle/flutter etc only upon deacceleration too...I will check to see if this fitment is secure etc and also have the dealer check it out. Could you post a copy of the work order as this gives these fixes from the internet the credibilty the dealer/techs look for. Thanks again.

Here's a thought--when they R/R the engine they disconnect the battery. Per the owner's manual, after the battery has been disconnected the window must be re-seated and its position saved so that it operates properly. Perhaps when they did this, the window stopped slightly below where it used to, making for a poorer seal? I suppose you could disconnect your battery and refer to your owner's manual to see if it helps. Mark Might be a possibility worth investigating. There is a procedure in the factory manual that involves putting a sheet of paper between the window and the seal and closing the window on it to see how much resistance is there when you try to pull the paper out without lowering the window. However, IIRC this test was meant for how well the window seals up against the top horizontal edge of the seal. Regards, Maurice. I have seen shops do this with a dollar bill...i will try this on both sides and in different spots and see if i can feel any difference between the two sides. Thanks 500>

If the car was on a lift at the dealer, it was probably supported properly at the four specified points, so it's not likely that this was the cause. I'm assuming that you have inspected the door seal carefully to make sure that there are no tears or rips or that it somehow did not get pulled out of its channel anywhere around its perimeter, especially in the area near and around the mirror. Regards, Maurice. I did a very careful inspection and found nothing out of place etc...the noise however was not present prior to the dealer visit :huh: thnx

Mark's suggestion as to what the probable cause of the wind noise sounds more plausible than the one I am suggesting. Mark's is more plausible because the noise ONLY happens when you open the roof or tilt it up. My suggestion would have to do with making a tighter seal between the A pillar and the front vertical edge of the window by slightly adjusting the window regulator frame forward. But, if the distance between the front edge of the window and the A-pillar was too large, then the wind noise would be probably occurring all of the time, not just when you open the roof or tilt it up. I believe there is also a product out there that causes rubber seals to expand, but I've never used it, only heard about it. Regards, Maurice. Hi Maurice, I forgot to mention my car was on a lift at the porsche dealership for about 2 weeks for a replacement engine ... wonder if it put things out of aligmnet so to speak hence the wind noise?

The lubricant helps by creating a better seal between the rubber surround on the mirror mount and the inner door seal. If this seal is dried or has wax residue, etc. on it it will shrink and not seal as well, inviting the vacuum you create when opening your roof to pull air between the seals and create the noise you're looking to get rid of. Painter's tape will probably not help you, since the air will simply be channeled around the tape and if you're taping a seal, you're eliminating its ability to form a friction bond. Mark Hi Mark, I placed the painters tape on the outside of the mirror seals and seams and around all the window seams etc, not on the seals themselves, but unfortunately nothing helped. I had the same issue on our 08 BMW and after many many trips to the dealer replacing the entire door seal was the only thing that helped.

Thanks for the suggestions. I actually placed painters tape along different palces to see if it would stop the whistle but to no avail. The weird thing is the noise only occurs with the roof open or tilted up and with the windows closed. Question for number9ine: how will lubricant help with the wind noise? Question for Maurice: the noise seems to be coming from around either the A pillar area of from where the mirror is attached to the window area, but I taped all along the contact points/seams but no luck. Thanks

Just started getting a wind whistle at 35 mph+ coming from the driver's window area near the mirror control area but it is not coming from the mirror (i'm familiar with that issue) you can only hear the whistle with the windows up and the roof open or tilted up. Had a similar problem with our 08 BMW and after many trips to the dealer they had to replace the entire door seal which finally fixed it. Anyone know of a fix for the 997? Appreciate any input.

New (reman) engine on the way...apparentely one of the pistons was scored pretty badly and they did not get into any other details (he seemd to try to downplay it) I also asked them to check on the clutch and related parts to find out about the chatter. I asked about a new engine vs a reman and he said "there are no new engines, only reman units for the exchange". I did not push for new engine as he assured me that the remans are almost completely new with all wear parts replaced with new. The way I look at it is my orginal engine was new and it was defective, so new doesn't guarantee/improve anything. I hope the new engine will be great and they get my clutch chatter straightened out. Gundo, The car was running when I brought it in, but drinking oil like a drunken sailor.

I know exactly how you feel! The clutch stuff is really BS, as the clutch in my loaner '08 Cayman S (also with a dual mass flywheel) is great...no chatter, 0! I hope to find out about my car on Monday and will keep you guys posted. If Porsche does not do the right thing it may very well be my last...

Thank you Phillip and thanks for addressing the new vs reman issue. My car is 2.5 yrs old so I think I'm out of the lemon law window (2yrs in FL ) but I'll check to be sure. The rep just tried to double talk me and I let him...this time he won't get away with it. My loaner is an 08 Cayman S and it's clutch is 110% chatter free.

The engine in my 997S with less than 20k fell victim to the dreaded left side exhaust soot issue with very high oil consumption (1/3 quart in 100 miles). The car was bought new by me with only 3 miles on the odo and was carefully broken in and had the oil changed by the dealer at the one year mark (never hit the 20k first). For the past several months or so the car was also exhibiting an engine knock no matter the brand of gas or station with 93 octane fuel; perhaps the plugs which became coated with oil and caused the knock? Some may remember I started a thread a few weeks ago where my engine's valvetrain made a terrible racket at start up which I attributed to it sitting for a week or so without being driven (but never heard it before) apparently that was not the case. The dealership is now removing the cylinder head to see the exact extent of the problem(s) and a replacement engine may be in order (I'll know tomorrow). My car also has had a very annyoing clutch chatter issue since new which could never be corrected even with a new replacement clucth and dual mass flywheel...the interesting thing is my loaner (08 Cayman S 6 speed)has a magnifcent clutch with no chatter at all...none. Cayman S's also have the DMF. Questions: 1) The dealership told me that only remanufactuered engines are available...is this true? I thought new replacement engines are available if one insists. I am hoping once the head is removed and the issue fully identified that Porsche will ok replacing the engine vs trying to repair the damage/defect. 2) Since the engine is out and the clutch is now easily accessible is it reasonable to ask Porsche to rectify the chatter issue once and for all. Several months ago the factory rep tried to tell me it was the dual mass flywheel set up I was feeling to which I laughed and said dual mass flywheels are supposed to lessen vibrations etc not make them worse and I've owned quite a few new 911's with the DMF setup that had no chatter at all. The clutch on my loaner is simply wonderful with 0 chatter. The dealership's service people have been great and I hope Porsche lets them do the right thing...if they don't my 27 year relationship with Porsche may come to a very unhappy ending. Thanks for the opinions.

I just went through the same experience last weekend when I went to pick up my car from my indi shop. I left there for a couple of weeks to change out my control arms, alternator, and do a 90,000 service. The shop owner said that is like a new car now after he changed everything. When I started it up and listened, I heard the clattering noise. I asked him about it and he said "Its the lifters" when he said that my heart sank. But he laughed and said that because the car had been sitting for two weeks all of oil drained out of the lifters. He said to drive it a few miles and it will pump up the lifters. I went for a 5 mile drive and sure enough, no clattering noise. I have not heard it since. Hope this helps. Kbull88 :lol: :) It did help thanks...wow 90k miles, what year is your 997?

Haven't been driving the C2S much lately, been taking the lazy man's route using the auto box BMW instead. Last night I wanted a more spirited drive so I took out the Porsche and upon start up there was lots of valve clatter which continued until I drove for about a mile and it went away; when I drove the car this morning there was no clatter at all but I noticed I was down 2 bars of oil which I've already filled. I hadn't driven the car for about +/- 2 weeks. I have noticed a similar situation with the BMW when I dont drive it for about 2 weeks or more and BMW's local Service Director told me its oil bleeding out of the lifters over extended periods of time and they silence once they get pumped up again; I was skeptical so he started a few other new cars that have been sitting on the lot for a while and most of them exhibited the clatter which went away after a few minutes. I never experienced this issue before with any of my Porsches and am curious if anyone here had the same issue?

I’ve noticed my engine oil temp is running close to 225 in city driving with the AC off. I’ve also noticed that when driving super mellow the temp is about 200, but if I give the car one or two quick rips in second gear to redline the temp almost immediately jumps to just under 225. The ambient temp here tonight was about 71 with +/- 60% humidity (S. FL). I remember the car running this hot during the summer but not this time of the year. What are you guys running and under what conditions. Thanks

Its a control arm...take it to your dealer they should know about it...

http://www.roadandtrack.com/article.asp?se...article_id=7383

I am conteplating the same thing...I think avoiding the DME and going with a hidden switch in the ash tray might be best.

They cheapened many things when they went liquid cooled...go open and close the door of a 993 or ealier Porsche and see what you think.

Thanks for the reinforcement.

According to Bridgestone, there are two additonal belts in the NO tire vs. the N1 (hence the difference in price). Don't let anyone tell you they are the same, or "the N1 is just a newer version of the NO" etc etc. Bridgestone and the technical dept at the Tire Rack both say never to mix and match N0's and N1's. Since I was orginally ill advised by a sales person at tirerack they are switching out the N1's for NO's...I did notice my car did not behave as it should when I was running the new N1's in the rear as the car was wandering quite a bit on the interstate. Should have the new and correct rear NO's on this week.

Thanks Never really noticed it before but I also wasn't looking .